THE SHOW must go on. After all, it wouldn’t be spring without a Smithsonian Craft Show. Starting this Saturday, April 24—at 9am and continuing through Saturday, May 1 at 11:55pm—that seasonal tradition will continue. Craft Optimism, an online marketplace, will feature handcrafted American goods (wearables, jewelry, accessories and home decor) from 100 artists responding to the challenge of climate change.
Thanks to the here-today, gone-tomorrow trends of fast fashion, the fashion industry has become one of the planet’s worst polluters. The pandemic, though, has issued a wakeup call, changing our thinking to buying fewer, but more well-made clothes and cutting down on waste. Because fashion is one of our focuses here at MyLittleBird, we’re highlighting three women artists—two who create wearable art and one who designs jewelry—who are masters of their craft and represent the best in “slow” fashion.
Using felting techniques, Salt Lake City-based Jeanne Akita creates “wearable fiber art” that spans the spectrum from everyday outerwear to the avant-garde in her home studio, calledIllusion Lab. She takes natural fibers from a wide range of plants and animals— wool from sheep or alpacas, for example, or recycled natural fabrics, such as sari silk—adds a small amount of soapy water, then hand massages the fibers until they become a cohesive, compact fabric. Akita forms her seamless, reversible clothing as soft 3D sculptures, which she then hand-dyes and paints and attaches fasteners and adds decoration.
LEFT: Artist Jeanne Akita created her “Martian fire ocean” jacket ($1,450) using the ancient textile-making process of felting with hand-selected, sustainable natural fibers as well as recycled natural fabrics. One side has a suede-like texture; the other a silk. “Her goal is to create unique high-fashion wearable art that is timeless, has a minimal environmental impact and a long life cycle unlike fast fashion.”
RIGHT: Inspired by the latest NASA planetary photo series, Akita created this unique yet functional art piece with her hand felting technique. The white and blue “Uranus tail” bold, unusual cape ($1,850) also features “eco fur,” a faux fur material made with lamb’s fleece.
When Queen Allotey-Pappoe talks about sustainability for her Lowell, Massachusetts-based Queen Adeline brand, she means it. She is committed to reducing waste, such as not using zippers if they aren’t needed and using each piece of fabric to its fullest capacity. The designer creates wearable art that celebrates the rich pattern and color of African textiles.
Growing up in Colombia, Lula Castillo became interested in working with local materials from the Amazon Rain Forest, including Tagua and Bombona nuts (palm tree nuts), jacaranda seed pods and acai seeds. With a degree in industrial design along with a passion for jewelry and wearable objects, she learned how to work the materials into an eco-friendly collection of necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings that are colorful, fun and lightweight wearable pieces of art.
LEFT: Be ready when parties begin again. This Queen Adeline signature gown ($1,800) from designer Queen Allotey-Pappoe is made from a wax cotton print fabric and other biodegradable fibers sourced from Ghana. Each of her pieces is a one-of-a-kind, handmade and functional statement piece. Gowns are made with a zero-waste approach; any scraps from projects are redesigned into accessories.
RIGHT: Lula Castillo’s asymmetrically designed Hierba necklace ($98) is handmade with Tagua nut rings and slices in royal blue, turquoise and lime green, providing a pop of color to accent your neutrals. Despite the visual volume, the jewelry is lightweight, and you can adjust the length.
LEFT: Lula Castillo’s Gold Chibcha Necklace ($450) is made of three seed pods covered in 24-karat Italian gold leaf. Bombona nuts cut in quarters and dyed in white, caramel, gray and brown (some of them also have gold leaf on the sides) form the top of the necklace, which Castillo advises looks best when worn as a choker.
RIGHT: Bet no one else on your block will have as vividly printed neck scarf /head wrap ($60) as this one from Queen Allotey-Pappoe. Made from an all-cotton African wax print fabric, you can wear it year ’round.
Ready to purchase an item or three? First, go toBidsquare. You’ll need to use a credit card for verification (a $1 charge will be submitted and refunded immediately) and then you’ll be able to browse all the shops in Craft Optimism. To shop, use the one-click registration button at the top of each artist’s shop; to purchase, press BUY NOW on the item(s) of your choice, and you will receive an invoice from the artist by email.
From left to right: J. Jill linen pants, Talbots Textured Dot Shirtdress and Lafayette 148 NY V-neck T-shirt.
By Janet Kelly
SUDDENLY, it feels like summer. Maybe just a tease. April is nothing if not fickle. Still, this spate of warmer weather and more people getting vaccinated is a siren call for a wardrobe refresh. As if balmy weather weren’t enough, those relentlessly happy-spring catalogues and email alerts are flashing tempting new-season clothes.
A wardrobe overhaul is not in the cards, but as for buying basic T-shirts, linen pants and an easy shirt dress, I’m in. Here at MyLittleBird world headquarters, we’ve been sizing up the options from five brands —Talbots, J. Jill, J. McLaughlin, Eileen Fisher and Lafayette 148 New York—asking ourselves what would make us buy Talbots ankle pants as opposed to J.Jill’s or a T-shirt from Lafayette 148 New York rather than from J. McLaughlin? As we prep to return to our pre-Covid social lives, how do we choose an item of clothing —quality of fabric, construction, style, available sizes, comfort?
Or do we buy a brand we identify with—one that speaks to the person we see ourselves as or the one we want to be?
Preppy, conservative, boho?
Below we’ve compared and contrasted some basics from the aforementioned brands. We’d also love to hear from you—why do you choose one brand over another? Share your thoughts with us in the comments section or on our Facebook page.
LEFT: Compared to its competitor’s T-shirts, Talbots Classic 100% Cotton Crewneck Tee ($29.50) is more structured and fitted. The label’s Tees are also more colorful; in addition to Blue Sky above, it’s available in 12 other hues, including Vivid Pink and Lemon Chiffon.
MIDDLE: Eileen Fisher clothing can be slightly droopy around the shoulders, but this Organic Linen Jersey Short-Sleeve Tee ($118) is fitted on top and then relaxes at the hem. Shown in popular-this-spring olive green, it’s also available in black and white.
RIGHT: This Pure Jill Scoop Neck Elliptical Tee ($49, J. Jill) in 100% pima cotton is everyday easy with an A-line silhouette and a hemline loose enough to hide under. The scoop neck sits high enough to comfortably cover and also flatter your assets. In addition to black it also comes in white, dusty pink and a floral print.
LEFT: The Kasey V-Neck Linen Tee ($68) from J. McLaughlin, made of 95% linen and 5% Spandex, has a more relaxed fit than the Talbots version but is not as forgiving as J. Jill’s. The curved hem in the back is a nice touch. The vibe is Palm Beach preppy.
RIGHT: At $148, this hip-length Modern Cotton Jersey V-Neck Tee from Lafayette 148 New York is a pricey staple. If you’re a stickler for construction and luxurious materials, though, Lafayette 148 New York may be for you. Note the finished hems around the neck, hem and hip. Score quality at a discount during the label’s online semi-annual spring warehouse sale (May 21-May 31) when prices are marked down up to 75 percent.
LEFT: Lafayette 148 New York’s Sedwick Shirtdress ($598), made from organic, sustainably grown cotton fibers (also available in white and coral), makes one-and-done dressing even more effortless with its clean lines, crisp collar and cuffed elbow-length sleeves.
CENTER: With yarn-dyed woven linen in navy and cream stripes, three-quarter sleeves and patch pockets, J. Jill’s above-the-knee, relaxed Linen Striped A-Line Shirtdress ($119) will take you everywhere by itself or layered over a contrasting tank.
RIGHT: Eileen Fisher’s Classic Long-Sleeve Silk Shirtdress ($348) looks flowy and comfortable in a generous boxy fit. You can dress it up or down with accessories and wear it as a dress or a tunic over pants. Maybe more spring-like colors are on the way.
LEFT: A fuller skirt and defined middle are the attractions of Talbots’ slightly-below-the-knee Tie Waist Textured Dot Shirt Dress ($139). The comfort factor comes into play with an elasticized waist.
RIGHT: J. McLaughlin jersey dresses are a more sophisticated, subtler, more tailored version of Lilly Pulitzer shifts. This Brynn Dress in Block Geo ($228, J. McLaughlin) comes in a choice of coral or light blue. Both are almost sold out.
LEFT: The fun factor for these J. Jill Linen Slim-Leg Pants ($89) is that the legs can be rolled up and tabbed with a button or left unrolled for a longer length. An elasticized waist checks the comfort factor while a wide tone-on-tone side stripe adds contemporary style.
CENTER: These Linen Lantern Pants ($158) in medium-weight organic linen from Eileen Fisher are curved through the leg and slightly tapered at the ankle. They also have front pleats and an elastic waistband.
RIGHT: Tailored for a slim fit, the mid-rise Manhattan Slim Ankle Pant in Jophur ($348, Lafayette 148 New York) with side slits is made from a Swiss stretch cotton with a crisp but lightweight feel and smooth finish. For those who like the feel of linen but not the look of wrinkles.
LEFT: Talbots’ slim-leg Perfect Crops Gingham ($89.50) are made of cotton with a touch of Spandex (2%). The contrasting button detail at the hem is adorably preppy. For the small-waisted with bigger hips, there’s also a Curvy Fit option.
RIGHT: A combination of mostly nylon and 9% Spandex ensures that these slim-leg, fitted Newport Capri Pants ($158, J. McLaughlin) will travel from shopping in Georgetown to hopping on a plane for Nantucket, looking fresh and polished.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an Amazon Associate.
This post, written by Mary Carpenter in the very first days of the pandemic (March 16, 2020) was unexpectedly prophetic: dysautonomia turns out to be a common symptom of “long-haul” Covid. Specifically, cardiovascular dysautonomia —abnormal increase of the heart-rate on standing, along with the risk of fainting—may be part of a lasting autoimmune reaction to the virus.
WHEN SIXTY-something DC lawyer D.M. fainted three times over a period of a few weeks, one ER doctor said she’d had a stroke. Then a neurologist said no stroke, but maybe a meningioma, a generally benign tumor occurring on the brain’s membranes.
Months later, the fainting has stopped, but D.M. is still looking for a reason for her ongoing symptoms, which include extreme fatigue, inexplicable bouts of feeling hot and sweaty—she had no hot flashes during menopause 10 years ago—and pulse rates above 100.
(She also takes medicine to control blood pressure, after her systolic reading occasionally spiked as high as 180. Pulse rates refer to the number of heartbeats/minute; the normal range is between 60 and 100, while blood pressure indicates the force of blood moving through the vessels.)
Although high blood pressure and occasional bouts of fainting can point to myriad diagnoses, one that may be “significantly more common than we realize,” as Mayo Clinic neurologist Jeremy Cutsforth-Gregory puts it, is dysautonomia: disruption in the autonomic nervous system, which is responsible for bodily functions, such as blood pressure and digestion.
The “simple faint,” also called neurocardiogenic syncope (NCS), is one of the most common signs of dysautonomia, occurring either occasionally or often. NCS patients experience a recurrent, transient loss of consciousness accompanied by sudden decreased heart rate and lower blood pressure, and then spontaneous recovery.
(The simple faint can also refer more specifically to “vasovagal” syncope, fainting triggered by an emotional event.”)
The other common sign is postural orthostatic tachycardia syndrome (POTS) — lightheadedness on standing up. Without an immediate reaction from the autonomic nervous system to get blood moving back up toward the head, it remains in the lower part of the body, making the heart beat faster and blood pressure drop suddenly. Most POTS patients have other symptoms, such as fatigue and headache.
What sends the nervous system out of whack is often a previous health trauma, such as cancer treatment, infections or food poisoning; a mental health trauma; or something simpler like dehydration or stress. For about half of those with POTS, the condition follows an immune reaction to an infection—and auto-immune markers remain in sufferers.
Auto-immune diseases, such as multiple sclerosis and diabetes, are often the primary diagnosis in dysautonomia sufferers. Many others have at least one additional diagnosis, such as anemia, chronic fatigue or Guillaume-Barre syndrome, for which treatment can diminish dysautonomia symptoms.
Although sufferers like D.M. can keep working, others like Tori Foles have been “bedridden, hospitals . . . battles every day . . . last couple of years,” according to her husband, Jaguars quarterback Nick Foles.
“There is a huge knowledge gap” concerning the nervous system, how it works and why it breaks down, according to Ryan Cooley, co-director of the Dysautonomia Center in Grafton, Wisconsin. Because detecting dysautonomia is challenging and can take years, patients often tell doctors who finally make the diagnosis: “No one believed me.”
Treatment depends on individual symptoms, which vary widely among 15 different kinds of dysautonomia. For some, advice includes drinking fluids, wearing compression clothes to help prevent blood from pooling in the legs and boosting salt levels.
For D.M., the number of medications prescribed so far, including those to treat low potassium, low thyroid and high blood pressure, seems overwhelming. Doctors have confirmed her meningioma but say it’s not worrisome. Her next steps involve more specialist visits, including to the cardiologist who originally cleared her but now, at D.M.’s suggestion, has scheduled a carotid artery test; and a neurologist to figure out the fainting, though she’s still searching for someone local who specializes in NCS.
Meanwhile, debilitating fatigue makes it difficult for her to progress on any of these fronts, although she still makes it through a full day of work and loves her job.
Mary Carpenter
Every Tuesday, well-being editor Mary Carpenter delivers health news you can use.
The most distressing (pun intended) of all hair problems is hair loss (often a result of hormones or heredity). About one-third of women experience it at some point; in postmenopausal women, almost two-thirds suffer hair thinning or bald spots. Originally prescribed for high blood pressure, the most common hair-loss treatment—Minoxidil (contained in Rogaine and generics)— was found to stimulate hair growth when directly applied to the scalp.
According to an article in last week’s Wall Street Journal, poor diet, not enough exercise or sleep and extreme stress can also be responsible for hair loss. So can age. As we get older, hair growth slows down. Hair becomes thinner and coarser and changes texture; curly hair, for example, will lose some of its curl.
Some smaller, independent companies are changing their focus to the scalp as the key to healthy hair and are targeting funds for research on hair thinning. A new brand, Arey, proposes that vitamin deficiencies from diet and lifestyle choices and even the chemicals in dyes used to cover gray hair, can be contributors. Its vitamin supplement, which is currently sold out, is supposed to delay graying.
This all brings me back to a discussion I had with Jeremy Buchanan, my talented colorist at SalonOne80 in DC. Several years ago, he and I were pondering why there was such a multitude of skincare products but not nearly as many—sophisticated ones at least — for hair. Somebody must have been listening because today the number of shampoos, serums, oils, conditioners and gadgets/tools on the market to treat every hair and scalp woe has exploded.
Here are 10 we’ve tried or want to:
LEFT: The next best thing to having someone else massage your scalp may be you doing it yourself with this Scalp Revival Stimulating Therapy Massager($16, Brigeo). You hold the massager and gently press the rubber tips to the scalp, spreading shampoo or treatment oil. You can use it on wet or dry hair, with or without product.
RIGHT: I’m on the fence about silk pillowcases myself, but I know several people who are smitten. Instead of thread count, silk fabrics use momme (fabric weight). In tests done by Good Housekeeping, the top-rated silk pillowcases were 22 momme or higher. “Silk pillowcases create a smooth surface for your hair and skin to glide over, and with less friction there will be less creases on your skin and less frizz in your hair.” The latest favorite of our own Mary Carpenter, who looks for the most momme at the lowest price, is Fishers Finery’s 25 momme Silk Pillowcase ($46.99).
LEFT: Research studies have shown that minoxidil could stimulate hair growth. The FDA originally approved over-the-counter 2% minoxidil to treat hair loss in women. Since then a stronger 5% solution has also become available. Specially formulated for females, Women’s Rogaine 5% Minoxidil ($44.97, Amazon) also “contains botanical extracts and emollients to help maintain a healthy, conditioned scalp.”
CENTER LEFT: Revitalash Cosmetics is better known for its serums to enhance the look of eyelashes and eyebrows. It must have been a natural for the company to move into hair shampoos and conditioners. Their Thickening Shampoo ($36, Amazon) contains loquat leaf, willow bark, biotin and panthenol for scalp health. I’ve used it several times and love that my hair looks shinier, plus it smells quite yummy. They also sell a Thickening Conditioner ($37, Dermstore).
CENTER RIGHT: Rene Furterer’s Tonucia Concentrated Youth Serum ($36, Dermstore) is touted for those experiencing thin, weakened hair due to age and stress and environmental factors. Ingredients like lemon balm extract slow down the loss of collagen from the scalp, while tamarind seed extract and orange essential oil and B vitamins help to plump hair fiber.
RIGHT: Tim Gunn on “Project Runway” was always announcing that the contestants used a Tresemmé styling product on their models. One nit I have to pick with my hair color is that toward the end of its run (six weeks), it begins to lose luster—a lot. The brand’s Gloss Color-Depositing Hair Conditioner in Dark Brunette ($7.99, Target) works as a temporary hair color spray to revive faded hair, add shine and extend the life of your color.
LEFT: Until she was vaccinated and not until weeks after did my NYC pal return to her salon. She decided to let her hair go completely gray during the year. What she needed was a moisturizing product that would tame the frizz that comes with gray. For that, she gives a nod to the Gold Lust Repair and Restore Conditioner ($52) from Oribe.
RIGHT: If you like your sterling hair, you can keep it looking topnotch with Silverati Shampoo (Oribe, $46). It takes the dull and yellow tones out of your gray and white strands.
LEFT: Too many procedures, especially repeated bleaching, can leave hair feeling like straw. Le Bain Cicaextreme Shampoo ($35, Kerastase), used post-highlighting or color, is supposed to leave hair feeling hydrated, nourished and not weighed down.
RIGHT: Deep blue pigments in DPHue’s Cool Brunette Shampoo ($26, Ulta) neutralize orange, red and brassy tones that appear unwanted and unwelcome a week or three after a color process at the salon. The foam formula is sulfate-free, which means it won’t strip hair color and you can use it on color-treated or natural brunette and dark hair.
Smithsonian’s Virtual ‘Craft Optimism’ Opens April 24
If more park benches looked like Colin Selig’s, how could we resist settling in and staying a while? Selig creates eco-friendly outdoor seating and biomorphic sculpture repurposed from scrap-steel propane tanks. Result: Minimal carbon footprint.
By Janet Kelly
LEAVE IT to the Smithsonian Women’s Committee to step up to a challenge. In 2020, during the height of the coronavirus pandemic, the committee sponsored its first virtual craft show. Now, this spring—April 24 through May 1, 2021—in partnership with Philadelphia-based nonprofit Honoring the Future, they’re set to launch Craft Optimism, the first Smithsonian Craft show to focus on climate change. The curated show and online marketplace will spotlight handcrafted American goods that educate the public about climate change.
To be eligible for inclusion in the show, each artist had to submit a sustainability statement, explaining how their work or their practice responded to the dangers of global warming by, for example, through energy or water conservation, tree preservation, waste reduction or use of recycled/repurposed material.
Contemporary craft experts, including museum curators, gallery owners and craft school educators, nominated artists and makers based on the quality of their work and their commitment to combat climate change.
“Craft Optimism celebrates the power and creativity of a diverse group of craft artists who call attention to an Earth in crisis and offer inventive ideas for curtailing human impacts on the environment,” said Fran Dubrowski, director of Honoring the Future.
The selected artists’ pieces encompass jewelry, clothing, accessories and art and decor in a variety of styles and price points. The show opens Saturday, April 24 at 9am and continues through May 1 at 11:59pm. Registration will be available soon at Bidsquare, a platform that the Smithsonian partnered with for the fall 2020 Virtual Smithsonian Craft Show and will do so again for this spring’s show. Although Bidsquare is primarily used for bidding on items in auctions, there is no auction element involved. The site, which will go live on April 23 with pricing, has a “Buy Now” function that consumers will use to purchase items from the show.
For a sneak preview of what’s to come, see a few of our favorite pieces below.
LEFT: Fobots (Found Object Robots) are the creations of Raleigh, North Carolina artist Amy Flynn. She combs flea markets, auctions, antique malls and the internet for vintage items, such as tin containers and common household goods. Flynn then solders and bolts her finds together to create these pieces of sculptural art. RIGHT: Trained as a metalsmith and inspired by nature, jeweler Amy Faust cuts reclaimed vintage glass bottles and jars, special beach pebbles and broken porcelain into defined shapes, replacing the traditional use of gemstones. In the porcelain, she looks for imagery of farmland and birds, both fragile parts of the environment. For her jewelry settings, she uses recycled sterling and fine silver.
ABOVE: Inspired by fashions from the past, Ana A’s eyeglasses and purses from sustainable sources come with a modern flair. The woods she uses to make eyeglasses are sourced from sustainable operations in Colombia, certified by the Forest Stewardship Council and Fedemaderas (Colombia’s tree federation). Wood removed from discarded bark is repurposed and recycled to create her innovative pieces. She uses Piñatex, a cruelty-free alternative to leather made from the discarded leaves of the pineapple plant, to make her handbags.
LEFT: Not for the color-shy! Lula Castillo’s eco-friendly accessories are made with sustainable materials such as nuts, rare beans and seeds collected in the Amazon rainforest. She has developed a technique to work with recycled pieces of citrus peel which she then combines with the seeds to create wearable pieces of art. RIGHT: Kathleen Tesnakis, founder of Ekologic, transforms cashmere discards from the New York City garment district into colorful, warm sweaters and accessories with zero waste. Since her company began, Tesnakis has rescued and reworked more than 16 tons of discarded cashmere items.
The Smithsonian Women’s Committee (SWC) is dedicated to advancing the Smithsonian’s mission to increase and diffuse knowledge. Founded in 1966, SWC celebrates fine American craft through the Smithsonian Craft Show. The committee awards grants and endowments throughout the Smithsonian from the funds raised at the shows.
Honoring the Future harnesses the power of art to educate, empower and engage the public on climate change. The nonprofit organization’s art exhibitions and programs spark conversation and inspire action to create a climate smart world. Since 2015, it has sponsored an annual Sustainability Award at the Smithsonian Craft Show to recognize artists whose work “educates the public about climate change or inspires or models a sustainable response to climate change.”
BRODERIE Anglaise (English embroidery) is a fancier name for those round or oval patterned cut-outs in a fabric that give it a delicate, lacy effect. Believed to have originated in eastern Europe in the sixteenth century, the technique became associated with the Victorians who fell for the frills in the nineteenth.
Traditionally white and associated with hot weather, breezy eyelet is now available in a variety of colors, even black, and it’s not just for summer. And it never goes out of style. Brigitte Bardot wore it for her 1959 wedding. For spring 2021, Fendi showed a pale-blue tunic top and skirt in ethereal eyelet; Stella McCartney, a one-shoulder lacy-looking mini in shocking pink. At a gentler price point, Sea New York designer Monica Paolini, whose niche is sporty with a handcrafted touch, proved that the fabric can span the seasons, using it for a caped trench coat for spring and a black puffer for fall and winter.
If eyelet is too girly, not your aesthetic, etc., think small with eyelet accessories, such as belts, bags and shoes, too.
Below, our choices for the days ahead:
LEFT: The oh-so feminine-looking Delphine Eyelet Ruffled Top ($98, Anthropologie) is a wardrobe refresh in marigold and a perfect complement to your favorite pair of blue jeans. It also comes in a more conservative ivory.
RIGHT: Founded in 1994 and relaunched in 2014, Munthe is a Copenhagen label with an urban-boho vibe. Cut in a semi-slim fit with oversized sleeves with elastic cuffs, the cotton chambray, popover-style Think Eyelet Blouse ($220, Nordstrom) could make nice with white cropped pants.
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Sea New York’s cream knit with ruffled eyelet bib detailing starred on the label’s fall 2021 ready-to-wear runway. You can pre-order the Santos Eyelet-Embroidered Wool Sweater (Moda Operandi for $395) with a $198 deposit.
How cute is this Braccialini Summer Clutch ($69.99, TJ Maxx) with a metallic print covered in laser-cut panel and sprinkled with pearls!
Remember Michelle Obama and her favorite Alaīa belt? Imitate the former first lady’s style with the late designer’s Eyelet Embellished Leather Belt ($1,150, Net a Porter). Made from smooth black leather and punctuated with silver eyelets, the corset-inspired waist whittler has a suede backing that it will make it fit as nicely over dresses as bulky sweaters or blazers.Yes, very spendy, but as Cher Horowitz proclaimed to her would-be robber in Clueless, “It’s an Alaīa. ”
When it’s time to frolic on the sand, put your tootsies in these Beachcomber Flat Espadrilles ($96, Neiman Marcus). They’re made of neoprene, are water-resistant and quick drying.
Anine Bing has been on my radar lately. The designer, who was born in Denmark and grew up in Sweden, launched her eponymous label in Los Angeles in 2012. This Jordan Sweater (reduced from $349 to $279.20, Shopbop) with a classic silhouette gets its modern look from a pretty pink hue and open detailing. Buy now, wear now (remember, April is the cruelest month) and next fall.
If you’re breathing a sigh of relief that skinny pants popularity is fading, take a look at Theory’s Eyelet Culottes ($325, Saks Fifth Avenue). Wear with a swagger in your walk.
My preppy side still loves the borrowed-from-the-boys look of a classic Ralph Lauren shirt with its signature embroidered polo player. The brand’s new Eyelet Cotton Polo Shirt ($168) is a more summery interpretation with floral embroidery and delicate broderie anglaise.
LEFT: The quintessential answer to what to wear on a warm summer day—an Openwork Embroidered Dress ($69.90, Zara) with short balloon sleeves and a ruffled hem. To tone down the girlishness, wear with chunky flat sandals. Throw it on on top of a bathing suit for a cocktail party—when that sort of get-together can happen again.
RIGHT: Wouldn’t Ciao Lucia’s Torino Sweater ($335) in sandy beige with its slightly boxy, cozy fit be just what you want to own for one of those foggy, slightly chilly days at the beach?
LEFT: I love a classic, double-breasted trench, but sometimes I wonder — is that boring? Sea New York’s Camel Hazel Trench Coat ($395, Tuckernuck) with that charming eyelet-trim cape looks like it would make an outing in the rain and wind an occasion to look forward to.
RIGHT: For its fall 2021 collection, in part because of the focus on outdoors during the past year, Sea New York expanded its outerwear collection with choices such as this Wren Wooded Quilted Shell Coat ($795, Moda Operandi; preorder for $397.50), a black quilted puffer coat with an eyelet hem. If it tickles your fancy, you won’t have to worry about anyone mistaking their black puffer for yours. But if that concerns you, it’s also available in camel.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an Amazon Associate.
Don’t want to make your own? The Gefilteria Premium Frozen Loaf (24 ounces serves 10-12) is available at Fulton Fish Market for $38.99.
A version of the post below was originally published in The Washington Post, April 1, 1996.
By Janet Kelly
Passover has always been my favorite holiday. For one thing, you don’t have to go to synagogue because the seder dinner itself is full of prayers and hymns. The meal tells a story; it’s the same one every year, but it has a happy ending. Finally, if you pay attention, you may learn a lesson or two. You’ll notice I didn’t say anything about the food. To some, matzoh is like eating cardboard. And gefilte fish, well, that reminds me of a Passover many years ago when my grandmother, famous for matzoh ball soup, tzimmes (carrots, sweet potatoes, prunes, apricots, and spices) and her sublime chopped liver, was unable to make the dish, and the task fell to my mother and aunt.
Here’s how I remember the day:
It started with a phone call from my aunt to my mother, which I answered and then stayed on the line a few seconds to listen in. “Meet me at the fish store on Middle Neck Road; they open at 9,” said my mother. “We’ll buy the carp [an oily freshwater fish native to Europe and Asia] and whatever other ingredients we’ll need.” “I’ll bring Mom’s recipe,” said my aunt.
After what seemed like a long time later, my mother and aunt arrived, laden with shopping bags full of boxes of Manischewitz matzoh, bottles of red Passover wine, Welch’s red grape juice, red and white horseradish; fragrant, dark, rich honey cakes, lemon-yellow sponge cake and dainty almond macaroons fresh from our favorite bakery; and a huge white oily wrapper with the fish.
Bernardaud’s Marc Chagall Asher Tribe Matzah Plate ($295, Bloomingdale’s) would be a generous gift for a friend/family member hosting a Passover seder.
They had to keep the carp cold while they made the marinade for the brisket, but the fish was so large there wasn’t enough room for it in the refrigerator. My mother suggested the unthinkable: “We could keep it upstairs in the kids’ bathtub and cover it with ice until we’re ready to work on it.”
“I never saw Grandma do that,” I piped up, “and her refrigerator is much, much smaller than ours.”
“We’re just going to leave it in there for a short time,” said my mother as she and my aunt proceeded to carry the fish and buckets of ice upstairs to my bathroom. I stationed myself at the top of the steps and watched while they put that big slimy fish with black eyes in my pretty pink bathtub. “I’m never going to take a bath in that tub again. You can’t make me!” Nobody was paying any attention to me. Then my aunt casually said, “I wonder what we’re supposed to do with the eyes. I don’t remember what the recipe said.”
“I thought you said you knew how to make this, that you had watched Mom so often that you were sure you could do it yourself.”
“I am sure,” said Aunt G., “but I just don’t remember what she said to do with the head. I think you’re supposed to chop it off and use it for the broth that you cook the fish in. You know how Mom’s recipes aren’t always that exact.”
“I left the recipe at home,” apologized my aunt. “I’m sorry but l was so rushed getting ready.”
I held my breath. Then, my mother began to laugh, and my aunt did, too—uncontrollably. Soon, they were laughing so hard neither one of them could speak.
When my grandmother arrived, I gave her a big hug and immediately began to report on the afternoon, “Mom and Aunt G. lost your recipe; they couldn’t figure out what to do with the eyes, they put the fish in my tub, and . . . ” My mother ordered me upstairs to dress.
Skip the macaroons. Instead order Harry & David’s Belgian Chocolate-Dipped Fruit ($69.99). Express two-day shipping is included.
As soon as I finished, I raced downstairs into the kitchen. The fragrant smell of meat and onions was coming from the oven. The matzoh ball soup was heating on top of the stove; there were little bowls of the charoses (chopped apple, walnuts, currants, and sweet wine), sitting on the kitchen table, and then I saw them: plates of gefilte fish garnished with carrots and that clear wiggly Jell-O-like sauce. I went over to the table and tried to sneak a little piece to see for myself how it tasted, but my grandmother caught me before I could and gave me silver dishes of nuts and raisins to set out in the living room.
It was kind of a special year for me—it would be my responsibility to recite the four questions in Hebrew (actually it was no big deal; you just had to ask why was this night different from all other nights with a couple of little modifications). My dad and I had practiced, so l was prepared.
A perfect spring centerpiece, made more dramatic with the addition of curling willow branches. The Tulip + Willow Bouquet is $118 from Terrain. Order tomorrow for arrival by this weekend.
When all the prayers were over, my mom and aunt brought in the first course, the gefilte fish.
I cut off a very little piece. It was not as good as my grandmother’s. I watched for reactions from everyone else at the table, but no one said a word.
After dinner we all went outside and sat on the porch. It was a warm evening for early spring and the air smelled thick and green. There was an enormous weeping cherry tree on my front lawn and the flowers looked so fragile and beautiful it made me sad because I knew they wouldn’t last that way.
“Hey, butterfingers, how about a game of catch?” asked my grandfather. “Okay, I’ll get a ball. It’s in the backyard.”
As I retrieved my ball, I noticed the trash had just been put outside, and the lid on the garbage can was slightly askew. I don’t know exactly why but I lifted the lid and saw two huge and incriminating bottles labeled Mother’s Gefilte Fish. I decided not to dig, but I’m sure if I had, I would have uncovered the remains of that poor carp that had resided in my bathtub.
End note: About those lessons from Passover, one sentence from the Haggadah (the text of the seder) that touches me every year: “You shall not oppress a stranger, for you know the feelings of the stranger, having yourselves been strangers in the land of Egypt. When strangers reside with you in your land, you shall not wrong them … You shall love them as yourself … .”
Green ruled fall and spring runways. LEFT: Prada’s 2021 fall runway, the joint effort of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, resulted in splendid coats. CENTER: Fresh green shades and flows hemlines were Michael Kors’s spring signature. RIGHT: Max Mara floor-skimming full-skirted coat in rich, dark-green velvet with a wide hood. Shades of Nicole Kidman in “The Undoing” with a side of Queen Elizabeth’s head scarves from “The Crown”?
MANAGING EDITOR Nancy McKeon is half Irish; I’ve got an Irish last name. Neither one of us has much good to say about St. Patrick’s Day. But we both like green. Lucky thing that shades of green—from sea foam to lime to olive (aka army green) are going strong this spring. Even though warmer weather is around the corner, the fashion world is seeing fall, and we’re pretty sure eye-catching rich greens will have legs when the seasons shift. And you know what? Lavender and other purply shades—the perfect complement to green—are also having their moment.
Below, see our choices for early-to-mid spring that will see you through to fall.
—Janet Kelly
LEFT: The color—let’s call it ice-cream pistachio—on this Knitted Polo Shirt ($59.99, Mango) reminds me of a polo that I had years ago and wore endlessly. It just screams spring.
ABOVE RIGHT: Keep yourself protected from April showers in this “bay leaf”-colored, water-resistant and lightweight ReNew Anorak ($99, Everlane) with a sporty hood. Wear it loose or cinch it in (it has a hidden drawstring); it comes with a spacious hood, easy snap closures and a high-low hem. More to like? It’s made from 100% recycled materials.
BELOW RIGHT: Size matters, particularly when it comes to protecting your eyes and face from UVA and UVB rays. That’s one reason we like these Kate Spade Pella Sunglasses ($140) with their big, butterfly-shaped lenses. The other is the color of the frames that say early springtime.
ABOVE: Fashion is all about change. Handbags have been on the small side for the past few years. Not for spring 2021. Take Ganni’s XXL Hobo Bag ($265, Shopbop) in kalamata, for example. Made from recycled polyester, it measures approximately 17.5-by-13-by-7.5 inches. For those who find it hard to locate anything in their small bags, there’s a zip pocket inside this voluminous one for essentials.
LEFT: Not too fitted, not too oversized, this easy-on, easy-off cotton (with a little stretch) Judd Jumpsuit from Alex Mill ($198) makes a good transition from sweatshirts and sweatpants.
CENTER: Agolde’s recycled leather designs are made using the pieces that would usually be thrown away during production. With the same look and feel as the real deal, this pair of High-Rise Leather Pants ($300, Moda Operandi) has a ’90s-inspired silhouette with a high waist and straight legs. Wear them with everything.
RIGHT: Sweaty Betty’s Super Sculpt High-Waisted Yoga Leggings ($108) may be made for yoga, but I use them for any and all activities, including watching TV from the sofa. They shape your bum, compress your saggy bits, wick sweat off and dry quickly. They even have a handy side pocket big enough for your keys. Fern green is one of the label’s new colors for spring.
LEFT: As my mother used to say, Calle Del Mar’s Ribbed Knit Cardigan ($398, Net a Porter) is a neat-looking top. What she meant by neat is that it doesn’t have a lot of bells and whistles; its slim silhouette with classic point collar is elegant. The forest green color would be terrific with white or khaki pants. If you don’t like it so neat, unbutton a couple of buttons at the top and bottom. Or get it in a slightly larger size and wear over a camisole.
ABOVE RIGHT: Indulge your case of spring fever with Cariuma’s OCA Low Green Canvas Sneaker($79). The Rio, Brazil-based brand makes sneakers with vegan insoles from organic mamona oil and cork with durable outsoles from lightweight rubber. Available in a slew of other hues and in suede as well as canvas, the vibrant green color recalls the tropical forests and foliage of Brazil.
BELOW RIGHT: Kate Spade-sibling Frances Valentine creates vintage-modern pieces inspired by the late Spade’s style and distinct aesthetic. The Jackie Naplak Leather Green Oyster($428) updates one of the brand’s best-selling styles in glossy patent leather. It comes with a removable, adjustable crossbody strap. It’s lined in cotton twill with a zippy asterisk dot pattern and has metal feet, a protective and life-lengthening feature for a handbag.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an Amazon Associate.
AH, DAYLIGHT Savings Time. Longer days, warmer weather to look forward to and, unfortunately, sleep problems, too. Yep, that hour change can mess with your inner clock. As if sleep weren’t already elusive for many of us—caused in part by Covid-induced stress—DST exacerbates difficulties. To combat the negative effects of adjusting to time changes, we should spend time outdoors in sunlight and be physically active. And during the hours before bed, lower the lights and turn off cell phones, iPads, computers and TV. In other words, don’t use your bedroom as an office.
But following that advice is not always practical or possible, which may explain why yesterday’s “CBS Sunday Morning” reported that one in three Americans don’t get enough sleep and why the lead story in the March issue of Consumer Reports focused on tools for better zzz’s, including mattresses, sheets and weighted blankets.
Getting good shuteye has fueled our own search for sleep solutions in these overstressed times. One colleague swears by melatonin spray; another, cannabis gummies. A NYC pal uses earplugs and sleep masks. I’m into essential oils, crisp sheets and body pillows. Managing Editor Nancy McKeon has no sleep issues, thank you very much.
Anyway, below is our random selection of products you may find useful for falling and staying asleep.
—Janet Kelly
ABOVE: Crisp, cool bedding is my idea of sleep nirvana. No sateen, flannel or jersey will do. Riley Home’s Percale Sheet Set (from $99 for a twin to $149 for king-size sheets) gets New York Times’s Wirecutter’s top nod for its feel, as well as its comparatively moderate cost. A set comes with one fitted sheet and two pillowcases, with an option to add a flat sheet—from $50 to $80. Choose from a dozen different colors, such as Cloud, pictured.
Clockwise from above left: In the age of Covid, I’ve been in the habit of keeping lavender oil by my bedside to neurotically check that I still have my sense of smell. I’ve also got a bunch of lavender sachets scattered in a linen closet and bathroom. I may just add to my love for the herb with a Lavender Eye Pillow Sleep Mask ($24, Anthropologie) in hopes that the scent and the cool silk will help me relax and lull me into sweet dreams.
Natural Patches of Vermont offers sets of 10 single-use stick-on body patches for just about whatever ails—muscles and joints, coughs and colds, headaches and migraines, stress and sleep. The Sleep Comfort ($22, Anthropologie) batch of patches with a mix of essential oils (lavender, chamomile and jasmine) claim to quiet your thoughts and soothe stress before bedtime. Think of it as portable aromatherapy. pack natural sleep-aid power with premium valerian root and melatonin to help promote deeper, more relaxed snoozes.
Dry air can be sleep-depriving. With its playful cloud design and availability in eight colors, the MistAire Cloud Ultrasonic Cool Mist Humidifier& Mood Light from Pure Enrichment ($49.99, Amazon) is marketed to parents for their children. But its compact size, quiet operation and ability to moisturize the air in a room for up to 24 hours is a selling point for kids of all ages. If you prefer something more adult-looking, opt for the MistAire Silver Ultrasonic Cool Mist Humidifier ($39.99, Amazon).
ABOVE: For about six months of the year, I sleep, snuggled under my down comforter—not only because I’m cold (the thermostat is set to go lower during the night) but also because I like its weight. Come late March, though, my husband insists we toss it off and just use our lighter quilt. Gravity’s Cooling Weighted Blanket ($199) could be the compromise I’m looking for. It comes in single, queen or king and weighs 35 pounds; the cover material is designed to wick moisture and control body temperature; the inner weighted piece contains fine-grade glass beads. Alternatively, ones from YnM start at $50 for a 15-pound blanket. In the March issue of Consumer Reports, Dr. Rafael Pelayo, a sleep specialist and behavioral scientist at Stanford University, says “The idea is that weighted blankets give a sense of comfort and may facilitate the secretion of oxytocin [which counters the effects of stress hormone cortisol].”
Clockwise from above left: Whether you want more energy or calm, or to improve your memory or look of your skin, there’s a tea for that. For improved zzz’s, sip this blend of passion flower, valerian root and catnip in Sakara’s Sleep Superherb Tea (20 teabags, $20). The latter two ingredients have very mild sedative effects for deeper snoozes.
Add one to two teaspoons of Dream Dust‘s ($38, Sephora) to water, tea, milk or a smoothie and you may get a better night’s sleep. In addition to jujube seeds and chamomile flower extract, it contains several hard-to-pronounce, unrecognizable-to-me ingredients like Schisandra Berry Powder, Polygala Root Extract and Ashwagandha Root and Leaf Extract. Nightcap, anyone?
You never know when Flents Super Sleep Comfort Foam Ear Plugs ($6.57 for a pair of 10, Amazon) could come in handy. For sleep, yes, to drown out street noise or for those times in a relationship, as RBG noted, when it’s good to be a little deaf.
When the noise of the world (literally and figuratively) is too much with you. HoMedics Sound Spa Relaxation Machine ($19.99, Bed Bath and Beyond) offers a choice of six different sounds—ocean, summer night, rain, white noise, gentle thunder and babbling brook—to block out traffic noise, TV news, neighbor’s kids’ flute practice, etc.
ABOVE: Try to find a pillow that keeps your neck and spine aligned is advice from sleep experts. This soft but springy 72-inch Down Free Medium-Density Body Pillow ($74, Company Store) looks awfully comfortable.
LEFT: This Works Deep Sleep Pillow Spray ($29, Anthropologie) is made from a blend of lavender, vetiver and chamomile that’s formulated to relax your body and mind for more peaceful slumber.
RIGHT: The Boyfriend Pillow ($37.15, Amazon) is never too tired to comfort or cuddle you in a hug. You may find yourself smitten with this undemanding guy.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an Amazon Associate.
From left to right: Photographer Renee Comet, Editor Janet Kelly, Managing Editor Nancy McKeon and contributor Walter Nicholls at MyLittleBird’s opening party on March 10, 2014. / Photo by Beata Wolniewicz.
THE PHOTO on the front and above was posted on March 10, 2014, taken by Beata Wolniewicz, at the launch party for MyLittleBird. See how bright and shiny LittleBird Janet looks in her white blouse and pearls? And how LittleBird Nancy glows in her black-and-white sweater-jacket (which is, I’m happy to report, a bit too large now). Seven long years later, we could use
MyLittleBird Cocktail
the ministrations of whoever did the airbrushing on Jane Fonda and Lily Tomlin, below. But, thanks to all of you, we’re still plugging away at MyLittleBird.com.
We thought we should commemorate our seventh anniversary by doing a short compendium of some of our favorite posts and, even more important, your favorites, as determined by all those spooky algorithms.
If your favorite isn’t here, you can blame a few lost brain cells on our part—although, as Green Acre columnist Stephanie Cavanaugh points out, she has written more than 230(!) columns and simply can’t remember them all. Mary Carpenter has written a similar number of Well-Being columns on a wide range of topics (and has produced some of the most competent Covid reporting around). And art director Kathy Legg has wrestled how many photos into our media library? At least several thousand. And then in her “spare” time, she has managed to write a piece or two on top of that.
Enough. Time to take a well-earned stroll down Memory Lane while we still have the brain cells to do it. All you have to do is click on the link above or below each pic.
Carleton Varney designed the carpet that leads from the registration lobby to the Casino Club. He chose Brazilliance wall covering for its drama and color. / Photo by Kathy Legg.
I think the crop of the pants keeps this Eileen Fisher outfit from being too droopy. Left: The Short-Sleeve Vertical Striped Sweater is $148 at Neiman Marcus. The description calls the sleeves “caftan style,” making it unclear how they would fit under a jacket. Middle: The nicely cropped Tencel-Linen Tie-Waist Lantern Pants are $178 at Neiman Marcus. Right: The cotton Mandarin Collar Snap-Front Channel Jacket is $258 at Neiman Marcus.
A FULL-PAGE ad in a recent issue of the Wall Street Journal warns that turtles will be completely gone in 50 years unless we do something about it. Now I love animals more than people, as anyone who knows me would agree. But turtles? I had to stop and think—what do they do? How do they add to society, or the planet or the environment? Have I ever known a turtle personally? No, except for a concrete garden statue I had for a while and then gave away to a friend when we moved.
I searched my brain for more turtle memories and finally found one underneath a pile of unread books with titles like The Rules of Football, Understanding the Stock Market and Taxes Made Easy, and it was a bad one: Once when Mitch and I were driving along a country road at dusk, at a fairly good clip because we had not seen another car in hours, suddenly there was a turtle in the road and we ran over it. I can still summon up the sound of the bump it made. I cried for at least an hour and thought of the turtle for days. That was about 15 years ago. Since then, nothing.
Then I remembered seeing a gigantic turtle in an aquarium somewhere. He was the size of a VW bug. I wondered how they had kidnapped him from his natural habitat and stuck him there for people to gawk at. That was sad. Naturally I cried for hours about him, too, and was reminded of a wonderful novel by Russell Hoban called Turtle Diary. Written in 1975, it concerns two middle-age strangers who meet at a London zoo and devise a plan to emancipate a giant turtle and return it to its rightful home in the ocean. (Definitely worth reading.)
I did not have a pet turtle as a child, nor did I get one for my own child when he was little. I have never had turtle soup, if there really is such a thing—I have never seen it on a menu anywhere, here or abroad. Despite graduating from New York University and then working at several newspapers, magazines and even The Humane Society of the United States during my career, all I know about turtles is that they move very slowly and live inside their shells.
I asked my husband how he felt about the demise of the turtles and his immediate answer was that he likes turtles. He went on to say that a turtle was his very first pet, that they live to be very old, like 100, and that he had three or four of them as a kid but they all died within months from soft-shell disease, which is why he had three or four of them, each one bought to replace the one that had died. (So much for living to 100.)
I am not sending money to the turtles. I don’t care if there are no turtles in 50 years, but it would be fabulous if there were no cancer, which is where my money goes.
EACH TIME I walk by my neighborhood Sephora, I experience this Pavlovian response of wanting to go in to try SOMETHING. I ignore it. Too many people inside—probably—and I don’t need makeup enough to indulge in what I consider risky behavior, like trying on a lipstick even after it’s been swabbed in alcohol. We know online shopping has been going great guns, becoming ever more popular because of the pandemic. But how the heck do you buy a foundation or a bronzer online? It’s hard enough when you’re in a store trying on the actual product. Still, big makeup brands are betting that you’re willing to use their virtual apps to buy your gotta-have blush, mascara or lip gloss. You connect with the brand’s products via the camera on your phone or computer and see what you look like in L’Oreal’s Radiant Satin Blush in peony or MAC’s Lustre Lipstick in flamingo. Try and buy—or not. You don’t have to be a makeup lover to indulge. Think of it as an entertaining way to spend a couple of hours on a rainy, cold March afternoon.
Bobbi Brown’s Virtual Tool offers try-on choices in lipsticks, eye makeup and foundation. I’m about to run out of my tinted moisturizer so I decided to see whether their matte Skin Long-Wear Weightless Foundation ($49) could be a replacement. I connected with my phone camera and the app uploaded my face, adjusted for the lighting and searched for the best color match for my skin, which it determined was Golden Beige. A split screen then showed my face before and after applying. On either side were lighter, warmer, cooler and darker options that I presumed the app doesn’t like as much. I tried a second time and got a different match— Cool Beige, which I preferred for its more natural, less caked-on look. I don’t think any of the eyeliners I tried, whether pencil or liquid, on any of these virtual tools is ready for prime time. In my case the black, or blue or green lines looked as if they had a life of their own and weren’t quite connected to my eye lids. On the other hand, I give my virtual experience with the brand’s high-shine Lip Gloss in petal ($29) a thumbs-up. The
To give my winter-pallid skin a much-needed color boost, Bare Minerals’ Gen Nude Blonzer ($25), a combo of a rosy blush and glow bronzer, looked promising. The app directs you to take a picture of yourself with the product on and then send yourself an e-mail. I liked how it looked but the results are, er, not so realistic, given that the Bare Minerals app, as well as Bobbi Brown’s and MAC’s, airbrush the photo, meaning no visible wrinkles! Anyhow, to avoid another mascara-buying expensive mistake, I took a pic of myself wearing the brand’s Strength and Length Serum-Infused Mascara ($22). Miraculously, it even managed to coat my lower lashes, which I have very few of. So, if I bought it, would it really do that?? I also got all set to try their Correcting Concealer. Alas, it wasn’t included in the roster of try-on products.
I’ve always wanted to see how I’d look in false eyelashes without having to buy any. M.A.C. Cosmetics’ virtual app let me do that. I tried on a variety of fringes, most of which looked shockingly bad, never mind ridiculous. The 33 Ingenue Lash ($18) was the most subtle and didn’t make eyes look as if I were Twiggy, circa 1966. If faux lashes are not in your wheelhouse, you can also try the brand’s foundation, eyeshadow and lipstick, via the app.
L’Oreal Paris offers its Virtual Try-On tool for hair color and makeup. I thought I would look terrible with blonde hair, and I was correct. L’Oreal’s Feria Multi-Faceted Shimmering Color($14.48) in deep bronzed brown with just a tinge of red brought some more light to my face—at least more than my faded salon color was providing. Emboldened by success, I thought Crème Permanent Triple Protection Hair Color ($7.97, Amazon) in dark golden brown might also be flattering, and the package info said it excelled at covering gray. I didn’t really see much difference between the two, but if for some reason I can’t go to the salon again for weeks on end, I have options. I was getting used to the illusion of no wrinkles, but L’Oreal’s virtual tool left them in.
The Chanel Try On app works for select lip, eyeshadows and eyeliners in its product line. I flirted with the eyeliners but inevitably they looked too dark and unnatural. Eyeshadow colors looked more promising but I’ve never worn eyeshadow and am not likely to do so in the future. Even though most of us have not been bothering with lipsticks because of masks, I suspect we have some pent-up demand. Chanel’s hydrating, shiny Rouge Coco Flash ($40) is available in 35 colors, with evocative sounding-shades like Freeze, Flush and Pulse to try. The brand-new tool in Chanel’s virtual makeup arsenal is Lip Scanner. If you see a color that you like on someone’s face or in a magazine or in a beloved lipstick that’s been discontinued, this app will find a Chanel lipstick to match it. You can then test it out virtually with Chanel Try On. I took a photo of the nibs of an old favorite from Burberry. I got a more vivid version of the hue from Chanel. These apps are good but they’re not foolproof—yet.
YESTERDAY I bumped into a neighbor I hadn’t seen in awhile. Chatting about trivia, I asked if she had gotten The Vaccine. She said yes, about 10 days ago. I asked how, and she explained that her doctor’s office had called and said she was eligible because she is over 70. “Hey, I go to the same doctor and I’m the same age as you and they haven’t called me,” I whined. (I could tell I was whining.) She suggested I call the office.
Even though I’m ambivalent about the vaccine, still I was annoyed because everyone I know has already gotten it, except for my son and husband who are both too young, at least here in Maine. So I called. I was on hold for about 15 minutes listening to recordings of blah, bah blah, and finally a human showed up. She asked my birthdate and then said she would switch me over to the Covid appointment line since I am eligible, being such a dinosaur. (She didn’t say that but her tone of voice let me know she was thinking it.)
Once on the Covid appointment line, a recording welcomed me and said my wait time on hold would be approximately 60 minutes. Naturally I hung up.
Next I tried Walmart’s, since I had heard they had just received thousands of new doses, available at all Walmarts. There’s one about 10 miles from my home. So I called. The recording said to go online. So I went online. I searched for the Falmouth, Maine Walmart on Route 1 and the website said there was no such place. So then I put in the zip code and suddenly there was such a place. Only there were no open appointments, from now until approximately forever.
That all took about two hours and I still had no vaccine scheduled. I swallowed an extra Vitamin D pill and that was that.
ALTHOUGH I may stray now and then, I stick to basics for everyday wear. Charcoal faded Levi’s and an oversize fisherman sweater or my favorite Mother Denim jeans topped by a slouchy cashmere crewneck are interspersed with tights and long-sleeve T-shirts for workout days. Because I’m usually cold, I throw my Patagonia fleece jacket over whatever I have on. But last week, bored by my usual repertoire, I looked into my closet and locked eyes with my newly acquired Brooks Brothers white and blue button-downs. What a no-fail solution to the question of what to wear when working from home—or cautiously going out and about as more of us get vaccinated.
A white shirt, in particular, is the equivalent of O-negative blood—it goes with everything else. But why stop there? Pretty patterns, striking stripes and colors, such as khaki and orchid, are on offer, even more so as we make the transition toward spring. Silhouettes are more relaxed, too—and embellished like those from Alex Mill and Simone Rocha. And if you think you’d like to try a leather shirt, there’s that, too.
Finally, what enters my decision of what to buy is whether it’s machine washable or not. Most of the ones we’ve picked are. See our choices below.
The print on Stacey Bendet’s Alice + Olivia Willa Placket Top ($295) features the company’s cute cartoony mascot—a woman’s face with big black sunglasses and red lips. MSNBC anchor Nicole Wallace has worn this silk blouse several times, but she’s not the only one. I also spotted Doris Kearns Goodwin wearing it on a news show. What do you call a shirt that can be worn by a 49-year-old as well as a 78-year-old? A winner.
You may not be able to travel but you can always dream. Channel far-flung places with Alice +Olivia’s Wanderlust Top ($330) in a old-fashioned postcard print featuring famous monuments around the world, along with palm trees and swimming pools.
Audrey McLoghlin, who launched label Grayson in 2019, focused on creating a tailored shirt that had a lived-in look. She called her design, “The Hero,” an apt name for a top you can throw on in a hurry, wear with just about anything and look polished. This black Hero Buttondown ($148, Anthropologie) fits that description. Plus, the back is long enough to cover you rear end.
Alex Mill is a new-to-me label I’m liking for its mostly easy-on-the-wallet prices and designs. Case in point is the brand’s cotton Easy Ruffle Shirt ($110, Shopbop), which tweaks the menswear style with a curved hem and a feminine frill on the cuffs and collar.
One of my all-time favorite shirts is covered in blooms in a Liberty London print. This Ruffle-Front Shirt in Liberty Libby Floral ($82.99, J. Crew) with a band collar and rows of ruffles around the bib is just as charming and mood-lifting. Plus, get 30 percent more off with code SALETIME. Note that’s final sale.
I used to think that Cos’s line of wardrobe essentials was just a little bit on the dull side. But in the last couple of years I don’t know whether it’s me or the designs have changed to be more colorful and contemporary, but the basics looks more appealing, like this cocooning Oversize Tailored Shirt ($99). Psst: it’s selling out quickly.
I love the Dennis Basso beige leather jacket I bought at a sample sale, encouraged by our own Nancy McKeon to be less practical and not pick black! So, how pretty is this pink Faux Leather Shirt ($59.99, Mango). Think of it as a fling, not an investment like similar but spendy shirts from more haute brands.
I haven’t totally broken up with my dry cleaner, but our relationship is not what it once was. Over the course of the pandemic, I’ve become more attached to my washing machine. Even though I adore my light pink Everlane Clean Silk Relaxed Shirt, my next purchase will likely be its Washable Silk Relaxed Shirt ($110). The Everlane site notes that the latter is “less sheer and more durable than our other silk, which means you can wash it right alongside your other clothes,” but tumble dry on low. Though they both say “relaxed,” the washable version looks more so.
You can’t beat the exuberant print of Boden’s 100% Silk Shirt-Surf, Parrot Paradise ($170), it also comes in seven other patterns, including a more subtle ivory-and-navy polka dot, as well as black, white and navy. It looks as good with jeans as it will later on with white pants.
Never underestimate how cheery a red-and-white combination can be. The slightly puff shoulder on Alex Mill’s Bobby Striped Cotton-Poplin Shirt ($95, Net a Porter) rescues it from being predictably preppy.
Designer darling of the moment Simone Rocha goes for romance in her clothing. Think tulle and pearls and flared shapes and flounces. Rocha’s charming Puff-Sleeve Blouse ($520, Farfetch) with peplum hem can also be worn as a jacket over a camisole. Like the look? You may be able to score something similar for a lot less when the Simone Rocha x H&M collaboration —a special collection of womenswear, menswear and childrenswear—launches March 11. It will be available on the H&M site and in select stores.
Insouciantly slouchy, cool-girl brand R13’s Oversized Striped Cotton Buttondown Shirt ($345, Intermix) reinterprets the classic. Wear it with the sleeves scrunched, the hem partially tucked in and a few buttons at the neck undone.
Joie’s Taormina Short Sleeve Silk Top ($278) starts with the idea of the classic button-down, then changes it up with upper-arm-camouflaging (to the elbow), fluttery sleeves. Note to self and anybody else who’s interested — it’s already sold out at Saks.
Come much warmer weather The Bo Boyfriend Embroidered Buttondown ($98, Anthropologie) is generously sized enough to wear over a bathing suit. The shimmery stripes seal the deal to wear over just about any bottom of your choice.
I TRY to be straightforward in my writing, which is why it makes me mad when others are not. A friend of mine, a fellow blogger and writer too, commented on Facebook that a friend of his was so great, “She’s Rhadamanthus.” I immediately thought, she’s whatahoosis? Naturally I Googled and found out that Rhadamanthus was some big deal in Greek mythology, the wise son of a king whose opinion mattered, or something along those lines.
The whole thing got me wondering: Just what the heck did we all do before Google? And how much dumber are we now because we have it? Why read, why learn, when you can just go and Google it?
A few days ago I got into a conversation with a sales clerk who reminded me of the actress Helen Mirren. When I told her that, she confided that she always wanted to look like Sandra Dee. I said, “Well, at least you’re still alive.” She was shocked, and said, “Oh no, when did she die?” Meanwhile my husband, who never even heard of Sandra Dee because he was a mere tot when I was a teen and Sandra ruled at the box office, got his Google on and within seconds delivered the gory details of her death, her disease, her broken marriage, her bitter end, and every movie she ever made. End of conversation.
Mitch is the fastest draw around these parts when it comes to his iPhone. On the one hand, he’s good to have around during the Sunday Times crossword puzzle. On the other, he’s always right.
Anyway, I’d rather be called Acca Larentia instead of Rhadamanthus any day. At least she was a girl.
LEFT: A recent New York Times article reports that during these masked times, blush is taking over for lipstick for adding a pop of color to the face. But the way to apply it has changed—blush has moved above the mask line, closer to the eyes and on the tops of cheekbones. New to me is Ritual de Fille’s Inner Glow Cream Pigment ($29, Ulta), which comes in nectarine, mauve and in dark and light pink. As well as the cheeks, you can also apply to lips and eyes and blend for a sheer wash of color or go glam and layer the color when an occasion comes around (soon, maybe).
CENTER: Tinted Face Oil Foundation ($42, Violet Grey) from clean-beauty brand Kosas contains no sulfates, parabens or fragrance. It’s made from a blend of six botanical oils with benefits: avocado oil hydrates; meadowfoam oil moisturizes and plumps; red raspberry repairs and tones; jojoba soothes; green tea defends against pollution, and rosehip seed brightens. Choose from 16 shades—say, light with golden undertones, fair to light with neutral undertones and tan with olive undertones. For those days when you want to look glowy but not feel as if you’re wearing makeup.
RIGHT: Le Volume Révolution de Chanel ($35) doesn’t flake and it fluffs up less-than-abundant lashes. I’ve worn Le Volume De Chanel but not in a couple of years, trying out other brands like Benefit, Boots, Ilia and Lancôme. But I’m intrigued by a new color in the new Volume Révolution line introduced this spring—it’s a deep burgundy/purple I think might bring out the color of my hazel eyes. BTW, when you buy any Chanel product directly from the Chanel site, it arrives nestled in tissue paper in a striking black-and-white box with the label’s famous logo. It’s a treat; perhaps put jewelry in it, or use it as a gift box, as my arty friend does.
LEFT: Fans of fancy brushes, consider this: Whether you’re applying applying a creamy foundation, concealers or blush, the elliptical shape and consistency of Beautyblender’s Classic Makeup Sponge ($15, Skinstore) makes applying it all easier and quicker. Rather than absorb makeup, the product rests on top of the sponge, which not only reduces waste but also creates coverage that looks like your skin, not as if it were caked on.
CENTER: About a year and a half ago, I bought a Lit-Up Stick from Westman Atelier at the gone-but-not-forgotten Barneys New York. Since then, makeup artist Gucci Westman has come up with several other products. I intend to try the brand’s Baby Cheeks Blush Stick ($48, Violet Grey), too, because the stick is a like a big, fat crayon, which makes it so easy to swipe on cheeks, lips and lids. Plus when you go to the Westman Atelier site, Gucci has produced several videos with useful hints on how to use her products most effectively. And, she’s so darn cheerful.
RIGHT: Iris & Romeo Best Skin Days ($64) is a new product—or at least new to me. It advertises as a serum, moisturizer, sunscreen (SPF25) with UVA and UVB protection and blue light/pollution protector, plus it gives skin a dewy look. What’s not to like? As the majority of us continues to shop online, picking the right shade for you skin from little squares on your computer screen ain’t easy. The folks at Iris & Romeo have a solution—send a photo to them (care@irisandromeo.com), and they’ll match you with the right shade.
LEFT: Using a pencil like Paula Dorf’s Baby Eyes Enhancer Eye Liner ($18.70, Amazon) can make a big difference in the way your eyes look by brightening their lower rims. It contains vitamin E so it’s creamy and won’t pull at delicate skin. It also works above the lip line, giving the illusion of fullness to thin lips.
CENTER: I’m beginning to notice dark circles under my eyes. Maybe they’ve been there for a long time, but now that I’ve seen them, I’m on the hunt for remedies. A while ago I bought The Ordinary’s Caffeine Solution 5% to reduce puffiness and said circles. But now I’m also thinking about Olehenricksen’s Banana Bright Eye Cream ($39, Sephora), which contains vitamin C to combat under-eye darkness and collagen to improve skin elasticity and reduce fine lines. The name is inspired by banana powder, a yellow-tinted powder that makeup artists use to color-correct dull skin.
RIGHT: I tried a sample of this Babyfacial ($80, Sephora) from Drunk Elephant with good results—smoother and more alive skin. It’s made from a blend of glycolic, lactic and citric acids for gentle exfoliation without the redness you sometimes get after a facial. Included in the purchase is a “tiny jar” of Drunk Elephant’s super-moisturizing marula oil, according to an email response to my question from Sephora. The dispenser on Drunk Elephant products really rocks.
LEFT: My brows have not been waxed or otherwise shaped in a year, and it shows. Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Definer ($23, Nordstrom) has three points to recommend it—the sharp tip creates fine hairlike strokes, the angled part and the side of the pencil are for broader strokes and filling out the brows. The spoolie on the other end distributes and blends it all together. Plus, you have 12 shades to choose from to match your brows.
NEAR LEFT: A liquid tint like Armani’s Blush ($36, Nordstrom) works well on dry skin like mine. It’s kind of like playing with watercolors on your face—you can apply a little for just a flush or layer it on for more impact. The wand makes it easy to mete out how much you want.
ABOVE RIGHT: Chanel’s Travel Makeup Palette ($95) packs it in with essentials for eyes and lips in a versatile range of shades—including two coral and two pink tones for lips, and three warm and three cool eyeshadow shades, plus a travel mascara in noir. For the face, there’s a Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Color in No. 20 and a shimmery blush. It’s a compact full of eye candy whether you’re traveling or not. And, don’t forget about that bonus box.
BELOW RIGHT: I’ve read that this E.L.F. Flawless Brightening Concealer ($5) stacks up well against the more than five-times-more expensive ones from the likes of Yves St. Laurent and Hourglass. Ingredients include antioxidant vitamin C and hydrating hyaluronic acid. You can choose from five shades ranging from “fair” to “rich,” and then pick an undertone —cool, neutral or warm. As you probably noticed, you can’t beat the price.
SOME SAY Presidents Day; others President’s Day. We’re calling it Presidents’ Day. The federal holiday is observed on the third Monday in February, but as for what to call it, there is no agreed-upon name, nor about who is being celebrated—Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, all three, just one or two? And where the apostrophe is supposed to be in the name varies.
This year it’s the day after Valentine’s Day, and the day after the Senate acquitted a former president of inciting violence against the U.S. government.
Can’t you just feel Abraham Lincoln’s (above) stare?
Two early examples of cocooning. Designers Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo and Maria Monaci Gallenga were inspired by Renaissance shapes as in these two evening capes from the 1920s. / Photo from Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute’s show “In Pursuit of Fashion: The Sandy Schreier Collection.”
HOW DO you spell security, protection and comfort—during a pandemic? Wearing masks, mais oui, but also by swaddling in sweats and fleece-lined leggings and coddling inside big faux fur coats and oversize down puffers. That inclination to crave reassurance from clothing is expected to continue, perhaps with some small refinement, like adding an elegant blazer to top off a lounge-y ensemble. According to a December article in Forbes, Pinterest says that in the year ahead high fashion will show us ways to swathe our figures in layers of fabric, forecasting cocooning to be a major trend.
Over-the-top runway styles, such as (left) Patou designer Guillaume Henry’s poufy cocktail dress from his 2021 spring show and (right) Simone Rocha’s multi-layered taffeta cape dress.
The 2021 spring runway shows, which took place last September, bear that prediction out. At those virtual events, designers responded to the challenge of the pandemic moment. Simone Rocha, for one, showed a bulbous taffeta dress that recalled the cocoon silhouettes of Cristobal Balenciaga in the 1950s. The same curvy, enveloping shape was on Patou’s Guillaume Henry’s mind, whose spring runway featured cocktail pouf dresses with ballooning sleeves.
Keep in mind that fashions on the runway tend to over-exaggerate; by the time those clothes reach buyers, they’re considerably less extreme. Consider our embracing examples below—cozy sweatshirt dresses from Cos and MM6 Maison Margiela, a Norma Kamali shawl-collar coat, a Telfar cocoon coat, padded jackets, a voluminous shirt dress, barrel pants and more—for right now, into spring and beyond.
—Janet Kelly
LEFT: A gentle hug for the body, Cos’s Hoodie-Inspired Sweatshirt Dress ($115) has a rounded, cocoon shape with split side seams. Wear it over cropped leather pants or by itself whenever warmer weather comes along.
CENTER: Evening gowns don’t usually offer much buffer from the crowd, but that’s not so for St. John’s Hexagon Print Silk Caftan Gown ($2,795, Nordstrom). Shoulders are exposed, yes, but otherwise, it encases the body in an envelope of floor-length silk.
RIGHT: We’ve been hearing the death knell for skinny pants and jeans for a while now. Whether new, barrel shaped jeans and trousers stay popular, well, we’ll see. A cocoon-like fit and a user-friendly elastic waistband distinguish these wide-leg, all-cotton Pull-On Pants from Cos ($99). Wear with a slim top to balance the bottom half’s volume.
LEFT: When the outside world overwhelms, retreat into the silhouette of this Futuristic Hooded Padded Jacket ($160.65, Etsy for plus sizes). Experiment with this warm but lightweight, batwing jacket to transform it into your preferred look. Available in eight other more neutral colors, but we kind of love this ice blue.
RIGHT: This Talfar Cocoon Coat ($365, Universal Standard), made from an alpaca blend with a hidden zipper and extended ribbed sleeves for warmth, has a flattering high-low hem that looks best when worn with pants, according to satisfied owner, MyLittleBird’s Nancy McKeon. She adds that the best view of its cocoon shape is from the back.
LEFT: If I were fantasizing about what to wear to a party, I’d pick this Simone Rocha Flared Ruched Midi Skirt ($969, Farfetch) with its slight pouf and artful drape. And if I didn’t have any other bills to pay this month, I’d spring for it, along with the label’s cloud-like puff-sleeve T-shirt. (Different shoes, right?)
RIGHT: Norma Kamali’s oversized Shawl Collar Coat ($295, Revolve) is an invitation to cuddle. Cut from stretchy cotton jersey, this quilted coat has an appealingly warm look with an exaggerated shawl collar, bell sleeves and a curved hem. Interested? Wear the collar up as Kamali reportedly does.
LEFT: Unabashedly roomy, this Jumper Shirt Dress ($1,480, Farfetch) is quintessential Maison Margiela, a label known for its deconstructive take on fashion. The vest-shirt work combination is reimagined as a one-piece striped cotton shirtdress with an inset ribbed sweater vest.
RIGHT: DSquared2’s College Denim Dress ($615, Farfetch) also reinvents the classic shirtdress—with a boatneck on top, cocooning shape and generous slashed pockets.
LEFT: For spring, bigger is better. Case in point: MM6 Maison Margiela’s way oversized Contrasting Sleeves Denim Coat ($775, Farfetch).
RIGHT: Dress or sweatshirt? The creative MM6 Maison Margiela goes for both in this cotton jersey and fleece Layered Hoodie Dress ($630, Farfetch). Comfort never looked as good.
LEFT: Allergic to wool and cashmere, the Muguet Milan designer constructed this Quilted Reversible Padded Jacket ($229.90, Etsy) from linen with lots of space to layer a sweater and scarf underneath. But you can also stylishly wrap up indoors.
RIGHT: Long sleeves with puffed shoulders, wide legs and a soft knit fabric make Mango’s Belted Jumpsuit ($119.99) cozy and forgiving and one I could see myself snuggling into—by the fire at home or beneath a long coat for a walk in my neighborhood park.
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