Lifestyle & Culture

Mushrooms and Marsala to the Rescue

Photos above and on the front from iStock.

The slight change in the weather brought to mind this idea for dinner; we first ran the recipe ideas a couple of years ago.

ONE THING I LOVE about cooking is you don’t have to reinvent the wheel, just tweak it. There are classic combinations that you know work, and all you need to do is adapt the concept to what you have around. A favorite dish of mine is Veal Marsala, but veal scallopine is sometimes hard to come by and pricey. It’s not something I have hanging around in the fridge. Regulars on my shopping list trend more to chicken cutlets, pork tenderloin, stew meat and steaks. I keep a bottle of sweet Marsala on hand and I almost always have mushrooms. With the mushrooms and Marsala, I can make ordinary meats special in no time. If I’m in a rush, I make a quick sauté of sliced mushrooms and diced onion and finish with a splash of Marsala and some butter for a quick sauce for sautéed chicken or roasted pork tenderloin. When I want to add a steakhouse-style side to my strip-loin supper, I leave the small mushrooms whole and cut large ones into quarters. I quickly sauté until they are golden brown and finish with the Marsala just to glaze the mushrooms. When I have more time, I make a stew with cubes of pork shoulder, lots of onions, mushrooms, Marsala and chicken broth.

As for the mushrooms, you can mix and match varieties at will. I am currently obsessed with beech mushrooms for both their fantastic earthy flavor and their Willy Wonka-whimsical shape. King Oyster mushrooms are a great addition as well, with a firm texture and mild flavor, but I always make the bulk of the mushrooms cremini or white because they are so widely available. Mix and match at your pleasure.

Sautéed Chicken Cutlets or Roasted Pork Tenderloin With Mushrooms Marsala: Roast or grill the pork tenderloin, or, if using chicken cutlets, sauté until cooked through. Sauté diced onions in oil, then add the mushrooms and sauté until tender. (If you’re making the dish with chicken cutlets, you can use the same pan for the onion-mushroom mix; if you’re roasting the pork tenderloin, you can add the pan juices to the onions and mushrooms.) Add equal parts sweet Marsala and chicken broth to moisten, not drown, the mushrooms. Let reduce. Throw in some diced butter, salt and pepper. Mix together and serve over the cutlets or sliced tenderloin. If you have parsley, go and garnish as you’d like.

Steakhouse-Style Mushrooms: Keep small and medium-size mushrooms whole. Halve or quarter large ones. Sauté over high heat with diced sweet onion or shallots in a mixture of hot butter and oil until nicely browned. Add a splash of sweet Marsala, salt and pepper and cook just long enough to reduce the Marsala to a glaze.

Mushroom and Marsala Pork Stew: Brown cubes of pork. In a braising pot, sauté diced onions; when soft, add a few tablespoons flour. Cook until flour is dissolved. Add the browned cubes of meat, sweet Marsala and chicken broth in equal amounts to barely cover the meat; salt and pepper. If you have fresh thyme sprigs, throw those in as well. Bring to a slow boil. Cover and place in a 325-degree oven. Cook for 1 ½ hours until the pork is tender.

—Stephanie Witt Sedgwick

LittleBird “Stephanie Cooks” is a pro in the kitchen whose commonsense cooking ideas are a blessing for the rest of us.

Green Acre #166: A Park for All Reasons

 

WE WERE WANDERING around Smorgasbord, the Saturday food festival, in Washington DC’s Yards Park a couple of weeks ago and I was reminded of why I was so skinny growing up in New York. One eats the air there—the spicy scent of peppers and yeasty breads and sweet pastries. There was no need to actually . . . chew. 

Smorgasbord, spawn of Brooklyn’s popular outdoor food market, has 30-some booths open each Saturday through the end of October, offering an aromatic cacophony of BBQ, Thai, tacos and pretzels, along with farmers selling the this and that that farmers sell. One could eat with one’s eyes. Hanging out, perhaps I could grow thin again.

A couple of years ago I wrote about Yards Park, the stretch of Anacostia River waterfront that was just being sculpted out of a weedy, broken-down industrial area adjacent to the Washington Navy Yard and just under the freeway from Capitol Hill’s elegant town houses and marble Offices of State. An area that, despite its brand-newness, is the oldest in the Federal City, dating to the 1790s. A place that fell into disrepair after WWII and is only now being reclaimed. 

The brand-new Nationals baseball stadium—with live concerts holding court when there were no games scheduled—was  humming. There was a walkway along the riverbank with a silvery, soaring, futuristic bridge spanning a canal, and built-in lounges set in a grove of young trees was the perfect place for reading the Sunday papers and daydreaming. 

A splash pool with a waterfall and fountains provided free summer cooling for kids, some great old buildings were being converted to loft living and shopping, and shiny new apartment buildings, with the promise of wraparound terraces with river views and rooftop pools, were cropping up like mushrooms after a hot rain. 

Back then it was peaceful only on weekends, the yammering of construction and rumble of trucks on two-day hiatus. But flotsam and jetsam floated in the river, drifting to the banks where it clung. A lonely sneaker here, a dead fish there. And most of the buildings and restaurants were still a wish.

Two years later and I don’t know where the detritus went, but the waterfront is now immaculate. Sailboats swan about. The trees have grown thicker, as they do, and planters spill with flowers. There are excellent restaurants, outdoor beer halls, a winery, several brave and interesting retailers, beautiful night lighting—and, oh yes, a trapeze school. 

Follow your nose to Nicoletta Pizza, an offshoot of the delicious Osteria Morini. Pick up a pizza and beer and eat at the café—or tote your own (well-hidden) bottle of whatnot and find a more intimate table upstairs, along the rail. Watching the sunset, cheese dripping from your chin, is the cheapest, sweetest date night around. 

Besides the Saturday Smorgasbord, and a Sunday farmers market that runs through September, there are free yoga classes, free festivals and free events like family-friendly Back to the Yards, a celebration of retro games such as pinball and Pacman, music from the ’80s, ’90s and 2000s (is that retro already?) scheduled for Friday, September 20 from 7 to 9pm. 

Yards Park gets a lot less attention than the gaspingly expensive restaurants and touristy razzamatazz of The Wharf, which is just around the bend on the Potomac River—and that’s a good thing. There are kids in the pool, taking their first steps in the grass, and losing the training wheels on their bikes. Grownups are reading in the shade, snoozing in the grass, canoodling.

It’s a great neighborhood park. 

—Stephanie Cavanaugh

LittleBird “Stephanie Gardens” knows a good park when she sees one. 

 

Don’t Look Back

I WAS WALKING across East 72nd Street in Manhattan recently and began to count the number of people around me who were wearing a backpack. Within half a block I realized it was easier to count those who weren’t wearing one.

Backpacks make so much sense. And yet . . .

I don’t aspire to the “working journalist” look of a nylon lump slung across one shoulder. (I don’t wear Dockers either.)

The two older women I saw on the street looked forlorn with big pouches drooping down their backs. Even some otherwise-fashionable young women had their crisp look taken down a notch by the hump of molten nylon that dragged along behind them.

Throwing money at the situation may not help. Hermès and Chanel and Gucci make backpacks, but spending $3,000 or $6,000 or even $9,500 (here’s looking at you, Hermès!) won’t make me feel not stupid wearing something I still associate with kids and their lunchboxes. And not feeling stupid (or for that matter looking stupid) is a benchmark I like to nail.

I looked around and spotted some models that might make the leap from “useful” to, dare I say it, “chic,” or at least trendy. If I decide to take the plunge it’ll be on the inexpensive side . . . until I know somehow that I don’t look like an idiot.

Nancy McKeon

LEFT: LittleBird Janet pointed me to this adorable little Quilted Backpack, cute and puffy. Available in black only, it’s about 10 x 10 inches and $59.90 at Zara.

RIGHT: Another cutie is Baggu’s Mini Backpack, which is small (10 x 12 inches) but can hold a 10½-inch iPad. If you’re an Apple kind of gal, you’ll like that it also has an interior pocket that can hold an iPhone Plus. It comes in Taro Nubuck (shown) and pebbly black leather, on sale for $140 at Baggu.

LEFT: This Mini Backpack by Boutonné comes in dark gray, ivory, luggage tan and black leather. Technically, the Mini is made for kids, and there’s a larger Mommy version, but I suspect that the Mini’s 8½ x 13 inches is big enough to be useful and tailored; $138 at Anthropologie. (Besides, the Mommy version, 15 x 15 inches and $248, is designed to be a diaper bag.)

RIGHT: There’s a lot going on with Tory Burch’s Jesse Flap Backpack—buckles, snake-embossed leather trim, velvet pocket flaps—perhaps too much for some, but it certainly signals that it’s not from REI! At 11 x 12 inches, it also has a top handle and is $658 at Shopbop.

 

ABOVE, LEFT AND RIGHT: Valentino Garavani certainly has had a hit with his Rockstud collection, from skyscraper heels to flats. Here it takes the form of the Mini Rockstud Backpack, about 7 x 8 inches and $1,945 at Farfetch.

ABOVE, LEFT AND RIGHT: Prada’s small Odette Saffiano leather backpack may look like a little tortoise strapped to your back, but its Prada cred cannot be denied. At only 7 x 6¾ inches, it’s $1,990 at Prada. (Okay, I’m not saying you have to buy it; it’s okay just to look.)

ABOVE, LEFT AND RIGHT: From Zac Posen, the name of the Eartha Iconic East West Convertible Backpack is a mouthful, but it really is convertible. Available in the color-block combo shown or in all black, it measures a ladylike 7 x 9.5 inches and is $395 at Shopbop.

LEFT: All the kids seem to want Gucci these days; goodness knows how they pay for the pricey brand. But if the linked Gs do it for you, too, here’s a splendid effort in red velvet (also available in dark blue) that will set you back $1,980 at Gucci. It measures about 12 x 13 inches.

RIGHT: The MZ Wallace Metro Backpack is a bit on the large side, 12 x 16 inches, but it stands out with the glossy black lacquer finish on its nylon body. It’s $255 at Bloomingdale’s.

LEFT: From Madewell comes the Canvas Somerset Backpack, in olive (shown; they call the color British Surplus), black or natural canvas color. It’s 12½ x 15 and $78 at Madewell.

RIGHT: This Mini Flap Backpack from Universal Thread is made of faux pebbled leather (in this autumnal green as well as in luggage tan and black). It measures 9½ x 8½ inches and is $27.99 at Target.

 

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Green Acre #165: In a Garden Gladly

‘WE NEED TO come back when the gardens are at their peak,” said My Prince. “When would that be, do ya think?”

“Now,” I said. “And then.”

There are 20 garden “rooms” at Ladew Topiary Gardens in Monkton, Maryland, about half an hour north of Baltimore. Spread over 22 acres and connected by winding paths of stone or moss or chipped wood and lined with towering hedges, each is devoted to a single theme or color or type of plant and each peaks at a different time, so there’s always something in perfect bloom.

On a brilliant September Sunday, a slight breeze, topiary the scent of boxwood, the umami of the shrub world, lending a savory backdrop to the sweetness of lingering roses. Overhead, the sun is intermittently hidden by genteel poofs of white cloud;  visitors tread quietly, drinking in the hush.

A born New Yorker and world traveler who spoke French before he learned English, Harvey S. Ladew came into a vast fortune on the death of his parents. Having no particular need to work, he didn’t. It is said that he said he might settle down when he turned 50. That never happened.

The “life-long bachelor,” as the brochures delicately have it, bought a rural Maryland farm in 1929 and spent just shy of the next 50 years turning it into an English country estate, indulging in his passion for fox hunting and entertaining a roster of celebrity friends and gadabouts who included Noël Coward, Somerset Maugham, Charlie Chaplin, T.E. Lawrence, Colette and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.

While the estate is huge—with a stable converted to a café and stone dining terrace, a gift shop, a butterfly house and the main house, which is open for guided tours—the gardens are intimate, cozy enough in scale to inspire a city gardener possessing a minuscule plot.

Even the Iris Garden (here’s a video), which features a meandering 100-yard stream that trips over rocks and flutters with hundreds of butterflies, is viewed in manageable bites, each twist in the path revealing a singular display. The small waterfall at the top of the sloping lawn burbles down and down to a grand finale at a koi pond, where fish the size of puppies flit about a topiary Chinese junk.

A passionate anglophile, Ladew designed his gardens in classic English style and converted the original 18th-century farmhouse into an English country estate, filling the rooms with English antiques, and decorating in English style—there’s an Elizabethan room with a plaster ceiling molded into a 16th-century Tudor rose pattern, and a rare four-partner oval desk in the oval library, which has been called “one of the hundred most beautiful rooms in America.” The house and gardens are on the National Register of Historic Places.

Dotted about the property are benches and tables, sheltered nooks, and whimsies like the petite Tivoli Tea House, once the façade of London’s Tivoli Theatre ticket booth. A small table is set for tea in the bay of the Pepto-Bismol pink room, a bar hides behind a mirror etched with a portrait of Ladew, and above the mantel is a splendid steal-this-idea: a gilded frame surrounding a window that reveals an ever-changing woodland view.

Around every turn is another photograph, trees and hedges exquisitely shaped and posed. Several ponds float waterlilies; apples and pears hang heavy from a Belgian fence, a lattice frame arched above the entry to the Garden of Eden, and billows of dahlias, hydrangeas and cosmos grace the cutting garden.

While the topiary hedges are breathtaking, the topiary sculptures, with a few exceptions, are less so. Ladew won awards for his amateur work, done with secateurs not power tools, which considerably upped the difficulty. But the Prince and I struggled for some minutes over what might have been either a rabbit or a fish. It was as if Ladew had been overtaken by the need for a martini in mid-clipping and forgot the ears.

There’s a team of professional and volunteer landscapers maintaining the property—perhaps they’re continuing that tradition.

Ladew Topiary Gardens are open April 1 through October 31. From now until frost there are hardy hibiscus, colchicum, iris, dahlias, asters and roses among the grasses and annuals.

—Stephanie Cavanaugh

LittleBird “Stephanie Gardens” knows a great garden when she sees one.

Cauliflower to the Rescue

iStock photo.

LittleBird “Stephanie Cooks” came up with this dinner-saver around this time a couple of years ago. We still need to have dinner saved, don’t we?

I’VE BEEN HAVING a rough couple of weeks. The older of my two sons left for college and along with all the crying in his empty room (me), worrying over course selection (him), the usual pangs of loss (both of us) and the trips to the post office to send him packages, I had an even bigger problem.

Ben, in what has been a revelation to me, turns out to have been my culinary compass. I had spent the better part of two decades building meals around what he liked, needed or craved. He’s my big eater and because he would eat things the rest of us also liked, I built our meals around what he had had for lunch, or what he asked for, or what I thought would be a happy surprise.

Now, as person who prides herself on always figuring out something to make for dinner, I have been at a loss, looking for inspiration when I never needed it before. There have been a few tuna sandwich nights and lots of pasta, since that’s what my younger son, Sam, prefers. But even my amiable husband started wondering where my mojo had gone and when was it  coming back.

Faced with a head of cauliflower and not an idea in sight, I took a look through Sanjeev Kapoor’s How to Cook Indian (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2011). My problems were not nearly over as almost every recipe had about a thousand ingredients that my pantry lacked, but it was start. I had dog-eared a rice pilaf with potatoes and cauliflower. Now, I have to beg Kapoor’s forgiveness because my dish is a complete bastardization. Lacking 10 of his 15 ingredients, I came up with my own version. But I also need to thank him, because it got me back to the stove.

So what did I make? I made a pretty good pilaf.

I sautéed a thinly sliced red onion in a couple of tablespoons of butter (sorry, Kapoor, no ghee here), a couple of teaspoons of mild curry powder (I know, I know, pre-made curry powder—it’s what I had) and some salt. I added cauliflower I had broken into very small florets, a cup of cooked chickpeas (my addition) and 2 small potatoes diced into ½-inch-or-so cubes. I added a cup of uncooked jasmine rice (close enough to the basmati the original recipe called for) and let everything sauté for a couple of minutes, mixing so it all cooked evenly. In went 2 cups of water and I let it cook, covered, on low heat for 15 minutes. I let the pilaf sit for another 10 and, voilà, I had dinner. A few lamb chops would have been great too, but my husband was so happy to see me back in action, he had the good sense not to suggest it.

—Stephanie Witt Sedgwick

Green Acre #164: A Case of Entrapment

Tallulah and friend. / Photo illustration by Stephanie Cavanaugh.

WARNING: Mice ahead. 

The Prince appears to have reached an impasse with the raccoon so now he’s gone to war with my mouse. 

I call him mine because anything that goes wrong around here, and apparently it is very wrong to give shelter and the occasional crumb of sustenance to a mouse, is ultimately my fault. Or so I’m told. While some in this household (me, for instance) never assess blame, others do. As there are only two of us in residence, I’ll let you deduce or deduct or whatnot. 

Though . . . in this case . . . it’s possible . . .

There are four glue traps in the living room and another four in the dining room. There is also one of those mouse hotels, cardboard boxes with something lethal inside. The mouse is supposed to go inside and die. (Design-wise, these leave a lot to be desired. I, for one, wouldn’t be tempted to enter anything so shoddy and unappealing). 

These are the visible traps. I’m sure there are others. There are always others. The Prince knows I consider glue traps the worst form of torture and will throw them away. So he’s trying to fool me by leaving a few out, meanwhile sniggering inside his little brain: “Heh, heh. She thinks she’s gotten rid of them, I’ll show her.”

Meanwhile, the current resident mouse is getting the better of him. We chuckle about this, the mouse and I. 

Interlude.

I had a mouse as a child, I was maybe 8. I don’t remember his (or her) name. I do remember standing at the bathroom sink, deciding it would be nice if he (or she) smelled like Arpège, my older sister’s scent of choice. This did not come out well. The mouse . . . expired. 

My second mouse, Willie, was the pal of my teens. Living in a New York apartment, the pet choices were limited. No one wanted to walk a dog. 

Willie lived in a cardboard box on the floor beside my bed. His particular toy was a small brown paper bag that he’d stand on, wriggling his nose like a tiny puppy when he sensed me around. I’d take him out and we’d chat and so on. When I was out, he’d sometimes chew a corner of the box sufficient in size to escape and frolic around the bedroom floor, then hide in the closet inside a shoe. My mother did not care for him, but she was tolerant. My father had no opinion. 

His sisters, Bea, Ruthie and Mil, would sometimes visit. Though not triplets, they were identical in size and shape, scarcely five feet tall in heels, with button noses, nice legs and little round bodies. They wore their hair in identical short curls, only the color differed: blond Bea, red Ruthie and salt-and-pepper Mil. This was pretty much how you could tell them apart. They’d sit on the living room sofa in a line, little legs dangling, and I’d bring Willie out to say hi. This never went over well. 

Returning to the subject at hand. 

While we were out of town last weekend—and unbeknownst to me—the Prince had deployed traps on the arms of the living room sofa and one rather large one on the middle seat cushion. 

We came home and I observed that the traps were undisturbed but there was a little dropping, delicately positioned on the sofa back. Just one. As if to say, “Point made, buddy?”

He’s a bold little thing, this mouse. Strolls about the living room searching for crumbs while we’re watching TV. We wink at each other. But either the Prince is oblivious or he’s too enraptured by another rerun of Sherlock or “Midsomer Murders” to notice.

I suspect he, at heart, has mixed feelings. 

Last year when Tallulah, our granddog, was visiting, he took her to the park for her night romp. She was chasing the tennis ball for the 400th time when he noticed she’d frozen in her tracks, back rigid, hair standing on end. Wandering over, he saw a field mouse, a tiny gray thing, like the one in our living room, reared on his hind legs with paws posed pugilistically, as if to say, “You wanna fight, Dog?” And Lu, bless her 65-pound soul, backed away very slowly. 

All of which My Prince gleefully described when he got home. He even confessed a fondness for that gutsy little mouse, and I sensed a yearning to have him as a . . . pet? 

Have I mentioned that earlier this summer I saw a sign on a lawn in Rehoboth Beach, “Please do not empty your dog here”? This was so wonderfully polite. And neither here nor there,  

Several years ago I wrote about our little mouse problem, or is it a problem with our little mice? They seem to have no problems, except us. Anyway. I included directions for freeing a mouse from a glue trap, which I wrote about so well that I do not see the need to rewrite and will just recount: 

 All you need to do is coat the mouse and the trap with a little oil, being careful not to drown the mouse, “NEVER USE ANY KIND OF PETROLEUM, SYNTHETIC OR LUBRICATING OIL . . . and do not submerge the mouse’s mouth and nose in the oil,” the instructions stress. I love instructions.

If the mouse has gotten really stuck, you may have to poke it a bit, but use something well padded because he or she is probably pissed off—even if you had nothing to do with its predicament—and might nip.

Now place the oily mouse on its oily trap into a plastic container with a lid and “lock it down” because the mouse will work its way free in a few minutes and leap for the safety of behind the stove.

They suggest driving the mouse to a place far away, at least a mile, otherwise it will come right back. A fairly ridiculous suggestion in the middle of a city.

Personally, I would make the gesture of releasing it into the garden* where it might consider partaking of the hospitality of one of our neighbors. I might even point out a promising direction or two.

 

—Stephanie Cavanaugh

* See how cleverly I managed to insert the garden into this column, which is theoretically about gardening? 

LittleBird “Stephanie Gardens” does not restrict herself to writing about flora. Sometimes the subject is fauna.

Communication! Do You Hear Me? Hello?

iStock photo illustration.

HAVE YOU EVER ordered anything from Wayfair, the giant online home-furnishings retailer? You’d probably remember if you had.

First, after spending untold minutes or even hours combing through as many items as you can, short of causing your eyes to bleed, you order something. Then you get an email.

Wayfair is so happy it can barely contain itself: Thanks for your Wayfair order! We love what you chose! See inside for details. . . .

Details of the order I placed two minutes before? My short-term memory isn’t that bad.

Then the next day, more exclamation points:

Your Wayfair package has shipped! The Jetta 6 Drawer Accent Chest is on its way! Track your package and view your order details. . . . Again with the details.

The next email arrives on my computer before the package hits my door (I live in a big building). And, by golly, more exclamation points:

Your Wayfair items were delivered. Woohoo! Your order has arrived! 

That’s a lot of enthusiasm for a little chest of drawers that will live in the guest room just in case a guest wants to plop a suitcase down on something flat. (I doubt overnight guests are going to be filling the drawers with their clothes.)

A couple of these missives were also sent as text messages (fewer exclamation points).

Wayfair has been excited about my household purchases before: In June, We love the Scale you chose! Before that, We love the Fireplace you chose! (They must be German, capitalizing their nouns.)

Of course Wayfair isn’t the only business out there that is excited to work with me. Seamless, the restaurant delivery service, told me only this morning, Just in: new restaurants! That was the same message they sent me last Saturday (but listing different restaurants). And that was only a day after: Food recommendations for you.

At Honest Paws, purveyor of CBD oil and treats for dogs and cats, Customer Experience Representative Neeah welcomed me last Saturday, then the same day thanked me for my purchase and said they were getting [it] ready to be shipped (which pretty much entailed putting a bottle in a box), then on Monday said (Great!) it was about to ship. On Tuesday, Neeah stopped by my Inbox just to say hello (Hello again! I hope you and your cute pet [see how personal that is?] are having a great day.)

So much communication! So little to say! And always, naturally, sell, sell, sell!

Then on Wednesday, big excitement: Hi Nancy, Great! #HP64232 is on its way to its destination (presumably my home). And five hours later, an offer to take 15% off my first order (which, of course, I had placed four days earlier, but it’s the thought that counts, right?).

My purchase arrived on Thursday (Hi Nancy, Great!), and when I couldn’t get the little bottle open, I met another Customer Experience specialist, Amy T., who, bless her heart, ordered me another bottle in case I broke this one while trying to open it (I didn’t).

Some companies don’t seem to believe in oversharing. Verizon is one. They will tell you all sorts of stuff as long as you don’t ask them IRL, which in their case means on the phone. On their site, 17 screens in (okay, I exaggerate, but not by much), you find a phone number and then . . . you wait because of “an unusually large call volume” (translation: We don’t hire enough staff and shuttle them from call to call without a break). Verizon does believe in some communication. While you’re waiting, a recorded voice purrs into the receiver to say, We’re sorry. All of our representatives are still busy. You will hear music until your call is answered. Thank you for your patience.

Maybe 12 bars of music do in fact play, but they keep getting interrupted by the recorded voice saying you will hear music while you wait (except when you don’t).

I realize these are two fundamentally different types of communication. The latter, shared by other utility-type companies (talking about you, AT&T Mobility), comes under the heading of “You’re our customer now and what can you do about it if you can’t even reach someone to cancel your service.”

I consider the former a version of “top of mind marketing.” Technically, top-of-mind refers to the brand names that immediately come to mind when thinking of a particular consumer item. But these constant shout-outs from companies with which I have a minimal relationship seem to have that awareness as a goal. And are as annoying as they are disingenuous.

The first mass email was sent out in 1978 by Digital Equipment Corporation. Things have been going downhill ever since.

Nancy McKeon

Green Acre #163: The Truth About Food

I BELIEVE I once told you that I was afraid of vegetable soup until I was 30-something. It was such off-putting stuff, with strange items floating, unidentifiable lumps of orange and those brown bits. The white things were the worst. I’m not going to say what they looked like chopped up like that. 

And then one day a Eureka! moment. I realized there were vegetables in the soup. Stock and vegetables. That’s it. 

Now, I’ve never been wild about vegetables; I find them somewhere between boring and inedible unless they’re smothered in cream or cheese or both. In fact, in theory, I’m a vegetarian—animal cruelty you know, sweet little piggies, downy little chickens. But in practice? There’s bacon. 

 

No bananas yet, but the poor thing looks as if it’s trying. / Photo by Stephanie Cavanaugh.

I just happened to read a report today that said bacon can cure Alzheimer’s, well, not specifically bacon, but fats, and in mice, not people, but better safe! These fats should be ingested when pregnant, lots of fats. I immediately passed this along to my baby who is With Child and will be until late December. Eat more bacon, I said. It’s good for baby’s brain. 

You’ve seen the movie Sleeper, I trust. Cigarettes will be next. 

Getting back to my point, I think. 

I know this might be hard to fathom. But I’m a city girl who didn’t understand cooking until I left home and began burning hamburgers out of desperation. My mother was an excellent chef so learning to make anything myself seemed pointless. But even though I trusted my mother, and she’d never actively tried to harm me, vegetable soup was still an unappetizing concoction that I wanted no part of. 

Similarly, I honestly thought there was an animal called a veal. That was a thought that also took way too long to be corrected. It was called veal. Like beef is called beef. And duck is duck. And so forth.  So I thought it was an animal.

Last summer I had a moment with bananas.

I was at this boutique garden center a few blocks away, a place where our friend Carol, who was visiting from Ohio, once stopped to pick up a little posy for me as a house gift, figuring how  much could such a thing cost? She was too embarrassed to put it back. The flowers did last a few weeks, I assured her, then reassured her every day until they passed. I dried a few bits and added them to an arrangement, just to add to the perceived value. 

Anyway, instead of buying anything, as I passed one day, I stopped to admire the banana trees, which were unusually frilly. As I have several of these, I asked one of the guys who worked there about banana trees that actually grow bananas, not just stand around looking unusually frilly. And he said: This is a banana tree that grows bananas. That’s what banana trees do.

Oh.

This is something I have never seen in the North until now. Or, to be more precise, last Monday around noon. My Prince and I were in Raleigh, North Carolina (home of the deep-fried HoHo’s—and on this trip, I noticed deep-fried Oreo’s. They fry everything there. But this is neither here nor there). 

We were visiting Baby and her Personal Prince Pete and were cruising the farmers market picking up tomatoes and peaches and elephant garlic (which is giant garlic) and were breezing through the plant section, though we need nothing, particularly at the end of August. And there was this tall, spindly thing with a few limp leaves, not particularly attractive, but it had a tightly gathered cluster of fat purplish tuberous things, like small eggplants, with a flutter up top that looked like an emerging flower. 

Curious, I asked the phlegmatic farmer what it was. “A banana,” he said, heaving his portly self out of his deck chair. “My last one. $25.” That it was the last one didn’t surprise me as it was probably the Charlie Brown of the lot. But it had fruit. Like six of them, which if you go by Whole Foods organic prices brought the price of the plant down . . . some. 

A banana with bananas on it? And a mystery flower that looks like it’s about to do something? This was a miracle indeed, and of course I had to have it. 

My Prince bought it for me, and he wasn’t even guilty of anything. I wasn’t ailing either, or in some slough of despond, so that was nice of him. He also sprang for a “tea cup” elephant ear, about  four feet tall in its pot, which has these folded leaves on long slender stems. The farmer hoisted a watering can and poured water over the leaves and the water dripped off. “See,” he said.

I wasn’t sure what I was supposed to be seeing. It looked like a plant being watered. But I’d never seen an elephant ear quite like it (they were rather dainty for elephant ears) and thought it mysterious and wonderful and I had to have it.

Now, I have several banana trees, none of which has deigned to fruit. I also have a fake banana that looks better than this real one, that’s also the only one that looks like it’s dying.  

This morning I repotted the banana and stuck it in the sunniest corner of the back porch, where I can watch it in the morning while I drink my coffee and read the paper. One day, who knows when, the bananas will ripen, I suppose, and My Prince can pluck one to slice into his Cheerios. 

This is a pleasant picture. In my head. 

—Stephanie Cavanaugh

LittleBird “Stephanie Gardens” probably also used to think that chocolate milk came from brown cows. But she’s better now.

 

My Dinner With . . . Avocados

A spicy shrimp, orange and avocado salad. / Photo by Stephanie Witt Sedgwick.

The weather seems just about right for a reprise of this column from Stephanie Sedgwick. It ran about a year ago, but we forgot to print it out—maybe you did too.

MY LOVE AFFAIR with the avocado began 24 years ago. It’s easy to remember the date because my husband and I were on our honeymoon when the obsession hit. This new love entered my culinary life in Mexico City, and by the time we got to Puerto Vallarta, I was hooked.

It was easy to succumb, Avocados were everywhere, from the markets to almost every plate of food we were served. Between my eagerness to please my new husband, an avocado-lover from way back, and the onslaught of the thing, I gave in and tried some.

Love at first bite, enough said. Silky, fatty and light at the same time—you all know what I’m talking about—avocado instantly became a fave.

It’s been a love that hasn’t faded. Of course, I’ve made vats of guacamole, but where avocado has really made its mark on my table is as a salad ingredient. Avocado plays so well off of sharp flavors, like citrus, vinegar and spices. I leave a love of avocado toast to others; it’s fine,  but what I really like is pairing avocados with strong partners. Here are a few of my ideas to add to your own avocado repertoire.

Avocado, Shrimp and Orange Salad: My favorite hot-weather salad main course. Chunks of avocado mixed with orange slices, steamed or boiled shrimp. Diced sweet onion and a dressing of fresh orange juice, olive oil, chopped chives and salt and pepper. If the orange juice isn’t that sweet, add a little sugar.

Avocado, Spicy Shrimp and Grilled Corn Salad: Rub peeled and deveined raw shrimp with a spice rub and oil. Grill until cooked through. Grill a few ears of corn using whichever method you like and cut the kernels off the cob as soon as the corn is cool enough to handle. Mix the grilled shrimp with diced avocado, the corn kernels, diced sweet onion and/or sweet red bell pepper. Add herbs as desired. Cooked black beans are a great addition too, but rinse thoroughly before adding, Dress with some apple-cider vinegar, olive oil and salt and pepper.

Chopped Avocado and Green Salad: This is a another nod to my husband, who has a much greater love of the green salad than I do. He loves a traditional green salad, me not so much, so I arrived at this compromise. I chop up a mix of bitter-ish greens—radicchio, escarole and the like. I cut the avocado similarly, into small matchsticks, the exact size and shape don’t matter much, and then I mix with a balsamic vinaigrette. Pair with a grilled steak and you’ve got dinner.

—Stephanie Witt Sedgwick

LittleBird “Stephanie Cooks” has great ideas for dinner!

 

Green Acre #162: Paradise Revived

I FREQUENTLY wish to reinvent myself. But then I think, time’s too short. But then I think again . . . if not now, when? Just leap.

That’s what Lucinda Fleeson did 20 years ago. A reporter for the Philadelphia Inquirer, she found herself adrift when the Internet ate her job. She ditched a charming cottage outside of Philadelphia with an English garden filled with lavenders, lilies, roses and zinnias that she’d created from double-dug, hard-crusted earth. She moved to the Hawaiian island of Kauai, where she discovered a world of wonders, a 2½-year sojourn that is delightfully recalled in her memoir, Waking Up in Eden: In Pursuit of an Impassioned Life on an Imperiled Island.

Backtracking just a bit. Forty-four, long divorced, and with an evening free, she accepted an invitation to dinner with Dr. Bill Klein, a charismatic horticulturalist whom she’d known for years. Klein, who had a history of reviving remarkable public gardens, offered her a job raising funds for the National Tropical Botanical Garden on Kauai, which he’d just been hired to lead as executive director, CEO and president. 

 “I’ll never leave journalism,” she told him. Two weeks later her job ended. 

“Why not go out on a limb?” she asked herself. “That’s where the fruit is.” Despite reservations about “drinks with umbrellas and tourist hulas,” she sold her house in a day, shipped a few things, stored others, jettisoned the rest—and moved. 

Kauai is one of numerous islands in the Hawaiian chain, and considered by many, she said, to be the greenest and most beautiful. Settled 1,200 years ago by Polynesians, it is separated from the other islands by a dangerous 100-mile channel, which kept it isolated for centuries. 

Klein’s job was to restore Kauai’s two major gardens, Allerton and Limahuli. Both had been left in terrible disarray by a devastating combination of lackadaisical care, shoestring funds and the fearsome winds of Hurriciane Iniki, which had torn  through the islands several years earlier. 

With the assistance of a team of horticulturalists, botanists, laborers, and Lucinda as fundraiser, Klein set in motion the rescue of a pair of treasures on a hell-bent path. 

Each garden has a story. 

Allerton was created by Robert Allerton, a fabulously rich gent from Chicago and his much younger lover, John, whom he adopted as a shield against scandal. On a stopover on one of their frequent world travels, in 1938 they came across Kauai,  where their lifestyle was accepted with a shrug. They fell in love with the place, creating a fabulous 80-acre winter retreat that became their permanent home, naming it Lawai kai.   

There were spectacular parties, involving exotic costumes that the hosts kept on hand. Some of these were gayly private, others featured extraordinary guests: Jackie Kennedy visited, so did Nixon, and movie stars such as John Wayne. So alluring is the property that it has many times been the backdrop for films and TV shows, including South Pacific, Jurassic ParkPirates of the Caribbean and Magnum, P.I.

When John Allerton died, the estate was left in trust to the National Tropical Botanical Garden.

The Limahuli Garden and Preserve is a thousand-acre paradise of native plants and relics of an ancient settlement. It’s startling to realize that the orchids, birds of paradise, bougainvillea—all of the showy tropical flowers we associate with the islands—were brought there either deliberately by settlers, or as stowaway seeds that arrived on ships from such far-flung places as India, New Zealand and Brazil. They galloped on the winds over the hills and plains, overtaking and overwhelming native plants. 

At Limahuli, plants approaching extinction were and are cultivated and nurtured—and often shared with other gardens around the world to increase the chance of preservation.  

Interspersed with the story of these gardens’ revival, Fleeson provides a short course in Hawaiian history, another on botany  and another on the gay underworld of the 1920s and early ’30s and the story of Isabella Lucy Bird, a “semi-invalid” from Yorkshire, England, who sailed the South Seas in 1872, landing in Hawaii, dropped her corset and cantered across the sand. 

Meanwhile, Lucinda was busy finding new footing, taking a hot lover and creating a tropical garden around her restored home that will, with luck, long outlive her. 

“I had so many wonderful experiences,” she told me in a phone interview a few days ago. “It was a great outdoor life.” She got herself a horse and pastured it near her house. “I kept a saddle in my trunk, and a snorkel.” Naturally, in such a place, a hot and sweaty ride slips into the ocean, nosing up to the humuhumunukunukuapua’a.** 

Kauai was the launch pad to a fellowship, teaching journalism in eastern Europe. “I’d wanted to do that since The Wall fell, but I had a job, a mortgage, a house—and suddenly I could.” 

More teaching followed in Africa, Asia and at the University of Maryland. 

Today she tends a little garden of kale and herbs and flowers on Capitol Hill, and teaches “clear and effective writing for government,” she said with a laugh. 

“That chapter of my life is over,” she said of Kauai. “I loved my time there, but the world is a big place.”

She’s also working on a new book. Seems there’s a lot of fruit left on that tree. 

—Stephanie Cavanaugh

* You can download Isabella Bird’s adventures in digital form from Amazon—the complete works for $1.99. Bird’s riveting description of traveling by ship through a typhoon, waves crashing, boat breaking apart and landing on Hawaii reads like Dorothy being snatched from black-and-white Kansas and twirled into a technicolor world. Bird eventually returned to England and became, once again, an invalid. Oh my.

 **Hawaii’s state fish, humuhumu for short. It’s a species of reef triggerfish.

LittleBird “Stephanie Gardens” likes reading about gardens as much as she likes gardening. Maybe more.

 

MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.

Green Acre #161: Gardens Are for Pasta Salad

iStock photo.

ITS MID-AUGUST (already!) and the tomatoes are fat, the basil is fluffy—just add Brie or some other soft cheese and chop it up in the cool of the morning and walk away . . . we’ll get to end when we get to the end. 

When it’s too hot to cook, there’s always summer pasta. Easy, elegant and nothing more to do than boil water and toss.

I made this for Robert Selke and Bruce Thompson, who once owned 2 Quail, which was often called the most romantic restaurant in Washington DC—though it was more a tribute to seat-of-the-pants creativity than expensive furniture and design.  

Set in a series of rooms on the combined second floors of two townhouses on Massachusetts Avenue NE, Bruce and Robert collected a crazy mix of mismatched wing chairs, china, flatware and wallpaper, let Piaf croon and mirrors reflect candlelight. Somehow that tiny townhouse also produced lovely food. 

Some years before, Robert had opened a successful restaurant in Philadelphia, and Bruce, a former ballet dancer, came to work as a server. They became a thing. 

When they noticed that most of their regulars decamped for Dewy Beach, Delaware, on summer weekends, they opened a restaurant there as well. As some of the Philadelphia staff traveled back and forth—filling gaps when gaps needed filling—Robert bought a rambling farmhouse a few miles from the ocean and put everyone up.  

2 Quail was their third restaurant. They told me that they took the train to Washington just for kicks one day and noticed a “for rent” sign in front of the townhouse on Massachusetts Avenue NE, just a few blocks from Union Station. 

By the end of the day they’d signed a lease, and in short order furnished the place with a collection of  glamorously funky thrift-shop and used-furniture finds. It never changed. 

The farmhouse became their weekend retreat. Not surprisingly, it looked like the restaurant, wonderfully mismatched and utterly charming. While the fields were leased to farmers, they kept an acre or so around the house for gardens—a secondary passion of Robert’s—and splendid they were. The hydrangeas were particularly dazzling and seemed to be in bloom throughout the summer. Bruce said all they did was dig in Holly-tone fertilizer at Easter and again at Thanksgiving. 

I made summer pasta for them one starry starry night, moving the porch table to the middle of the garden, picking hydrangeas for the centerpiece. It was magical. 

Never be afraid to cook for cooks: They appreciate a night off. 

After a decade or so they sold the restaurant and moved to Fort Lauderdale, where Robert took up tropical gardening, and Bruce, who changed his name to Monty, swam from condo to condo leading little old ladies in aerobics.

After a few years we lost touch, but I still think of them when the tomatoes are ripe and it’s too damn hot to do anything more effortful than boil water—here, with a nod to The Silver Palate Cookbook

Summer Pasta – serves 4 amply

4 large ripe tomatoes, cut into ½-inch cubes
1 pound Brie*, rind removed, torn into irregular pieces
1 cup fresh basil leaves, rinsed, patted dry and cut into strips
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely minced
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon best-quality olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus additional to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound thin/fine linguine

Directions

  1. As soon as you get up, have had your coffee and read the paper or whatnot, combine everything but the linguine in a large bowl and toss well. Cover with plastic wrap, leave on the counter and walk away. (If you can’t do this in the morning, two hours will do. The longer it sits, though, the more divine the aroma and flavor.) 
  2. When ready to eat, cook the pasta. Read the package directions, if you must.
  3. Drain the pasta and toss well with the “sauce.” Serve immediately with freshly ground black pepper and grated Parmesan cheese. 

Just add salad, a crusty loaf of bread, wine and Piaf. Serve. 

*I have substituted havarti, fontina and blue cheese for the Brie; really, any soft cheese will do.

—Stephanie Cavanaugh

LittleBird “Stephanie Gardens” also cooks—like a dream!

 

Get Out . . .

IGNORE ALL the back-to-school promotions: It’s still summer. Still time for the beach? Sure, but here are three alternatives, outdoorsy in their own way—or at least outdoors-adjacent. I’ll start with the B’s, as in “the Bronx.”

THE NEW YORK Botanical Garden has a lush landscape exhibit this summer, a homage to Roberto Burle Marx, one of the most important Brazilian artists of the 20th century and who himself spanned much of the century (1909-1994).

“Brazilian Modern: The Living Art of Roberto Burle Marx” ranges across the whole garden. Important for his plant discoveries and connoisseurship, Burle Marx is best known to those of us general-knowledge types as the genius behind the sinuous black-and-white mosaic walkway along Copacabana Beach, which surely says “Rio” to most people.

“Brazilian Modern” is NYBG’s largest botanical exhibition ever and goes over the top, in the best way possible. There’s a Modern Garden, with black-and-white pathways that echo Copacabana’s, flanked by lush garden plantings; an Explorer’s Garden, a nod to the flamboyant Burle Marx’s enthusiasm for the rain-forest species of Brazil and the way he introduced Brazilians to their rich patrimony by adopting these extravagant species for public and private landscapes. There is also a Water Garden and, in the library, a display of Burle Marx’s paintings and drawings.

Visitors can go full-bore Burle Marx by purchasing tropical plants in the gift shop, as well as Brazilian botanical personal-care products and, if tempted, $2,100 lithographs signed by the artist.

“Brazilian Modern: The Living Art of Roberto Burle Marx,” New York Botanical Garden, 2900 Southern Boulevard, Bronx, NY; 718-817-8700. Through September 29, 2019, Tuesday through Sunday 10am to 6pm. “Artes Brasileiras” live music and dance performances take place on weekends. Ticket price includes the entire property and the tram tour; weekdays $23 for adults ($20 for seniors), weekends $28 (and $25). Tickets can be purchased online at https://www.nybg.org/visit/admission.

 

NEXT UP is Pittsburgh, where the Frick Pittsburgh’s Car and Carriage Museum is offering the “outdoors-adjacent” exhibit“The Hunt for a Seat: Sporting Carriages in the Early Twentieth Century,” displaying sporting-class carriages, custom-designed for the elite class that could afford such things (which called for horses, a stable, and staff to tend to both). Also on display are the sporting outfits of the leisure class, including horseback-riding costumes for women, who had  to mate public decorum in dress with the exigencies of riding sidesaddle. The carriage exhibit is timed to coincide with “A Sporting Vision: The Mellon Collection of British Sporting Art From the Virginia Museum of Fine Art,” on exhibit in The Frick Art Museum, in the same compound. the exhibit includes a section of works by Pittsburgh-born Paul Mellon’s favorite painter, the horse and animal portraitist George Stubbs.

“The Hunt for a Seat: Sporting Carriages in the Early Twentieth Century,” The Frick Pittsburgh’s Car and Carriage Museum, 7227 Reynolds Street, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania; 412-371-0600. Through November 3, 2019, Tuesday through Sunday 10am to 5pm, Fridays until 9pm. Admission to the Car and Carriage Museum is free; “A Sporting Vision” admission in the Museum is $15 for adults ($13 for seniors). Tickets can be purchased online at www.thefrickpittsburgh.org.

 

AND THAT takes us to W, for Washington DC. The National Building Museum there has managed to install a summer blockbuster for several years now. One year it was “Beach,” which featured an enormous ball pit for kids and adults alike to submit to, as if to so many ocean waves; “Iceberg” celebrated and “constructed” bergs that took the heat out of summer. Now comes “Lawn,” a rolling (fake) greensward that features hammocks, lawn chairs, setups for lawn games and lots of acreage to just chill out. And in the background, the sounds of summer: crickets chirping, bees buzzing, a lawnmower whirring in the distance. But note that summer ends at the National Building Museum on September 2, 2019.

There are morning yoga sessions, evening movies, a few days reserved for DC residents designated by ward. The museum ensures a good experience by selling timed tickets. Otherwise you might be tempted to curse out your neighbor-visitors with a time-honored “Get off my lawn!”

“Lawn,” National Building Museum, 401 F Street NW, Washington DC; 202-272-2448. Open every day through September 2, 2019, generally 10am to 5pm (from 11am on Sundays, additional hours for evening movies). Admission is $16 for adults ($13 for seniors 60 and up). Tickets can be purchased at https://www.nbm.org/exhibitions/lawn-tickets.

—Nancy McKeon

Nancy McKeon is managing editor of MyLittleBird.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

‘Downton Abbey’ on Exhibit

 

The marvelous Downton Abbey exhibit has moved on, to Boston, where it is on view through September 29, 2019. After that it travels to Biltmore, the Vanderbilt mansion in Asheville, North Carolina, from November 8, 2019, through April 7, 2020. And if you cannot make it to either of those places, take heart: The Downton Abbey movie opens on September 20, 2019,

This review is based on the exhibit’s 2017 installation in New York and has been revised.

 

I COULD QUALIFY to be the Cook at Downton Abbey! I learned this by taking the interactive multiple-choice quiz at “Downton Abbey: The Exhibition,” while it was on display in New York, in 2017.

The quiz, an “application for employment,” seemed to be assessing my sense of oganization, my loyalty, my ability to press forward in the face of interruption or bad decisions by others. Nowhere did it ask me if I could cook, something to think about when watching a rerun of Mrs. Patmore doing battle with the biscuit dough.

The woman ahead of me was told she qualified as a Lady’s Maid; another woman (because, yes, the quiz asks your sex) was tapped as a Housemaid. I guess all the above-stairs positions were taken, what with nepotism and all.

The exhibit, produced by NBCUniversal International Studios and a list of sponsors and contributors that takes up an entire page in the Souvenir Programme, is a well-calibrated mixture of sights and sounds from the show, which is apparently the highest-rated PBS “Masterpiece” drama series ever, seen by some 120 million people around the world. Even Queen Elizabeth II is said to be an eagle-eyed viewer, pointing out the occasional anachronism (she noted a WWI soldier wearing medals awarded in WWII).

Most of the visitors to this celebration of a lost, or discarded, way of life, have been happily steeped in the minutiae of Downton Abbey for its six seasons, where life “in service” was shown to be as appealing as the life of those served. This is a chance to walk through the hallowed kitchen and butler’s pantry and other below-stairs areas, opening the occasional drawer, reading the odd book on a table, absorbing the information on wall plaques. Although we visitors get to walk beyond the green baize door separating the family’s living areas from the servants’, the upstairs rooms aren’t quite as well represented because they were real, shot on location at Highclere Castle, which played the role of Downton Abbey.

We were able to walk through a portrait-laden grand dining room. Then we sat on benches in Lord Grantham’s library, with its projected image of book-lined walls, only to watch as the walls crumbled to ruins, replaced by scenes of wretched trench warfare. The ebb and flow of images was as dazzling as it was sobering.

Commercial exhibitions such as this one are more like World’s Fair installations than proper museum exhibits. But I’ve been to the French fry museum (in Bruges, Belgium), a chocolate museum (Barcelona), the pasta museum (Rome) and others, and I find that the wall plaques and artifacts in these displays are more detailed and give more historical and social context than those in many a Smithsonian exhibit.

And the Smithsonian doesn’t invite me to “upgrade” my experience by buying a night’s lodging at the hotel on the Biltmore grounds.

Or, in New York back in 2017, my friends and I were invited to indulge in an Afternoon Tea Package at the nearby Whitby Hotel for $45 per person, offered through January 31, 2018.

“Downton Abbey: The Exhibit” began its life in Singapore and will have a limited run in New York before traveling.

After the “dressing gong” was rung (by three selfie-taking Korean schoolgirls), we visitors faced the final Downton display, a feel-good video appearance by Lord and Lady Grantham, Mr. Carson and Mrs. Hughes. What would the family do without the staff? Lady Mary asked, not entirely rhetorically. To which Mr. Carson replied, What would the staff do without the family?

See? There once was a proper social order, and the world has been going to hell every since it got blown up. What’s left to us are shows such as Downton Abbey that allow us to peer longingly into another age. Never mind that most of us would be staring up at those drawing rooms and libraries from below-stairs.

—Nancy McKeon

Downton Abbey: The Exhibition,” The Castle at Park Plaza, 130 Columbus Avenue, Boston. Timed tickets are $35 for adults, $33 for seniors. Through September 29, 2019.

From November 8, 2019, through April 7, 2020, at Biltmore, Asheville, North Carolina. Timed tickets are $69 for adults; ticket includes entry to Biltmore House and Gardens.

 For more information, call 866-811-4111.

 

Green Acre #159: A Tale of Two Hydrangeas

Phyllis is on the left, against the cherry tree. Alice is far back on the right, a few pom poms visible by the arm of the chair. Margot can’t be seen at all but she’s there. Sulking. / Photo by Stephanie Cavanaugh.

MARGOT IS NOT THRIVING. She was once the glory of the border. A pink hydrangea that grew so big, so leaf- and flower-laden, that it splurged across the garden path, making it difficult to walk through. With room to move her back, we did. Or My Prince did, as digging her up was a massive undertaking that clearly would have ruined my nails.

That was four years ago. She’s now a bare twit of a thing, alive but sulking. Meanwhile, Phyllis, who resides just across the path, is flourishing. As is Alice, who lives back toward the garage. They are fertilized in the same way, and get about equal doses of sun, so this failure to thrive is not weather- or care-related. Margot is just in a mood.

Phyllis, as you may not recall, is named for my blonde friend, who brought her to a party a decade ago, adorned with a shiny ribbon. Her white blooms gradually shade to palest pink, a lovely plant.

We bought Alice last July, at a farm stand near the Calvert Cliffs in southern Maryland, the weekend place of our friends Alice and Robert. She was immense, laden with baseball-size white pom poms, and cost $30, so I had to have her. And though I feared she’d not make it in summer air hot as Hades, she’s half again as large this year.

Margot was another house gift, brought by our German friend of the same name. Perhaps I shouldn’t call her German, as she’s lived in the US for 70 years and is a citizen, but while she’s fluent in English her accent is as distinct as it was when she got off the boat, or however it was she arrived.

She buffs that accent annually with two weeks at a German spa where she fasts and saunas and marches through the forests. She comes back 10 pounds lighter and looking 10 years younger. I do not know what they do to her there, but she tells me, “You woot not like it.”

She’ll be 95 in October and just redid the kitchen in her beach place in Rehoboth, Delaware. Now that’s optimism.

I met Margot 30 years ago. She invited me to lunch. “We’ll meet at noon,” she said. “Let’s synchronize our watches.”

She owns two houses and several commercial properties on Washington DC’s Capitol Hill. Up until a few years ago she’d shovel snow from the sidewalks. But then, we haven’t really had enough snow to shovel in several years so maybe she hasn’t given that up yet.

If Margot decides to live to 110, I’m sure she will.

We were at the beach place last weekend, a large house that smells a little of mold and the mothballs she deploys to ward off bugs in her woolens. There’s an Alpine view from the screened back porch.

The house used to be surrounded by bamboo, which we thought insane: Anyone who has grown bamboo knows it’s even more invasive than wisteria—which is really saying something—and nearly impossible to eradicate. The tough little stems pop up, and you whack, and they pop up and you whack, and repeat until the end of time.

For years the bamboo stayed tame. I imagine Margot barking at them each morning, “Back, you!”

A couple of years ago she removed them, and they’ve stayed gone. Ferns now spread lacy leaves, and moss grows between the pavers that weave though glossy green shrubs.

The plantings surrounding her Federal-era city place are equally kempt, azaleas and roses in the beds, mammoth sago palms punctuating the patio, and a wisteria that meanders obligingly along an upper-level porch rail. She maintains both gardens herself.

Perhaps I’m just not firm enough with Margot-the-hydrangea. I should crack a whip and bark, Grow, dammit!.

On the other hand, I could invite Margot-my-friend over. I’d make her a gin & tonic with “schweppers” and lime, we’d share a “ciggie” on the back porch, and have her handle it for me. Next year the flowers will be guaranteed.

—Stephanie Cavanaugh

LittleBird “Stephanie Gardens” suspects that tough love is what her garden needs. That and glitter.

 

 

 

Super Women: A Quartet of Pollans

 

The Pollan cooking clan: left to right, Dana, Tracy, mom Corky and Lori Pollan. / Photo by Nicole Franzen.

BACK IN THE PLEISTOCENE—meaning before the Internet, even before cell phones—Corky Pollan and I walked the streets of Manhattan for New York Magazine trolling for the next shiny object, whether clothing or a gadget or a cache of Edwardian berry spoons, that might appeal to our readers. Our column was called “Best Bets” and, while we didn’t invent the column, we took great care of it.

Corky always found the best stuff. After a number of years she went on to become style director for the late, lamented Gourmet magazine. But while she was doing all that, she and her husband, Stephen, were creating something—a family that has become a dynasty of talent.

When the kids were little, they were out on Long Island. But then the whole family came roaring into Manhattan, all six Pollans. The oldest of the kids, Michael, grew up to be a journalist, writing about the plant world (Second Nature: A Gardener’s Education), about food (In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto, The Omnivore’s Dilemma) and most recently about psychedelics (How to Change Your Mind). Dana and Lori co-founded the  successful Pollan-Austen exercise studio. Tracy became an actor in movies and TV, most famously on the series Family Ties, where she met her husband of 30 years, Michael J. Fox (guess what? they have four children too; it seems to be a winning formula).

And while they were doing all that writing and creating and styling, they were also eating. Maybe it was Corky’s early exposure to food through her dad’s Long Island produce business, but she set an inventive and healthful table for her family. They noticed.

All of the Pollans cook inventively. And they were always swapping recipes. The realization that they had so much material gave rise in 2014 to their first cookbook, The Pollan Family Table: The Best Recipes and Kitchen Wisdom for Delicious, Healthy Family Meals. But wait! There’s more! The clan have now come out with Mostly Plants: 101 Delicious Flexitarian Recipes From the Pollan Family. 

The title comes from brother Michael’s mantra: “Eat food, not too much, mostly plants.” And family being family, Michael wrote the foreword to the book.

Some of the Pollans are vegetarians, some, like Corky, are carnivores. But even Corky says she has given up on beef and lamb in favor of pork, which just isn’t as strongly “meaty” flavored. (I know what she means: After half a dozen years of making turkey burgers, I find it jarring to confront the real thing—though I still find the real thing delicious.)

For the Fourth of July I made the Watermelon, Feta and Arugula Salad With Balsamic Glaze for a family porch party. There are lots of versions of this summer go-to, but I like theirs best. What I like even more than the recipes are the helpful asides and tips. For instance, “Tips to Make Any Dish Taste Better” (too sweet? try adding citrus, white wine or vinegar; or red pepper flakes; or soy sauce. too spicy? try a dollop of yogurt, lime juice, brown sugar). Each addition shifts the flavor profile a bit, toward Asian or Latin or just plain delicious. But the tips are things I wouldn’t immediately hit on in the face of kitchen disaster, or even just meh.

There are three whole pages of shortcuts (if you need to add more oil while cooking, drizzle it around the edges so it’s heated by the time it reaches the food; coat your cheese grater with nonstick cooking spray before grating—you already know why, but would you have thought of it? not I).

I’ve been living far away from the Pollan clan for a number of years, missed the sad fact that, Steve, one of my all-time favorite people, had passed away. His legacy, created with Corky, is as vibrant as ever. And my selfish thought is, If I can’t be at the Pollan family table, with these two cookbooks I can at least approximate the family table in my own kitchen.

—Nancy McKeon

LittleBird Nancy is managing editor of MyLittleBird.

 

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Green Acre #158: Crape Myrtles, the ‘Shoulda’ Tree

Take that, dogwoods and cherry trees! The crape myrtle’s blooms last all through the summer and into the fall. / Photo by Stephanie Cavanaugh.

‘WHAT’S THAT?’ said my love. He was looking at a beautiful tree covered with ruffled clusters of ballet-slipper-pink flowers. 

We were walking to Sunday brunch at the deliberately funky Tex-Mex Santa Rosa Taqueria, two blocks from the ground of the US Capitol and a few thousand miles away in atmosphere. 

“A crape myrtle,” I said. Did I mention that the thermometer in the shade outside Citibank read 99 degrees? 

We walked a few steps more. “What’s that?” said my love of a tree, blazing scarlet.

 “A crape myrtle,” I said. “They come in reds and pinks and purples. The colors are different, but the  flowers are much the same.”  

“What’s that?” he said, a block on.

I forgot. “They also come in white.” 

As usual, this is like talking to a 3-year-old.

It is high season in Washington DC for crape myrtles; some are small bushes, others towering, with a mighty spread. This is one of those shoulda plants, as in: I shoulda planted one. What else is so reliably colorful from summer through fall, as dramatic, as nearly carefree as this tree?

Instead, we planted a pink dogwood out front, which straggled along for many years, leaves curling and drying to a brown crunch in August. When we gave up and cut it down; a red-leaf maple went in its stead. Yawn. Pretty. 

Out back there was also a pestilent apricot, just a twig of a thing that became in a few short years a nightmare with rotting fruit too high to reach and a foul mush of slugs underfoot. Beware fruit trees in small gardens.

When the apricot died it was replaced, stupidly, with a Kwanzan cherry, which now has a 16-foot spread and nearly reaches the roof, submerging the garden in shade throughout the summer, and all for a week or so of flowers in spring. Fabulous blooms, but really. 

And why? Because the crape myrtle, for all its flowering through summer and fall just sits there in spring. La di la di da. The very last tree to leaf out. The tulips bob about in the faint breeze, the forsythia strikes gold, and the daffs wave this way and that. Meanwhile, the crape myrtles sit there buck naked. 

I have no patience with this: I want my spring to come in a tidal wave of scent and color. Winter’s over, dammit. 

We walk on. The flowers in yards and tree boxes are looking a little ratty, a little limp, a little fried. Any rose worthy of the name is done. The zinnias have beetle holes. 

The crape myrtles? They’re grand. I shoulda, really. Maybe when the cherry breathes its last.

We’re on our way back home, a distance of about a mile. The temperature per Citibank is now 101 in the shade, don’t even think about the sidewalks, my sandals are melting. Just two blocks left and I’ve stopped perspiring, my stomach is roiling, “I think I’m close to a heat stroke,” I tell my beloved.

“Go into the laundromat, and I’ll get the car,” he says. So I do. There’s no air conditioning in the laundromat, if you can imagine. The dryers are spinning ker-clunk, ker-clunk. 

I sit outside on a plastic chair and wait. And wait. And wait. What the HELL COULD HE BE DOING? The car is two blocks away.  

A full 15 minutes later he pulls up. Next to him on the seat is a cold towel. A bucket of ice. A bottle of water. 

He really is a very sweet man, even though this morning he bored my brain like a beetle and then almost killed me. 

—Stephanie Cavanaugh

LittleBird “Stephanie Gardens” shoulda planted a crape myrtle. Next time.

Green Acre #157: The Caribbean? No, Capitol Hill!

WHEN YOUR garden is a lemon,  break out the punch.

Twenty years ago or so, when food writer and stylist Kristen Hartke, her editor husband Rick Weber, and their infant daughter Maddie stretched their budget and moved into a wooden farmhouse, one of the oldest homes in Washington DC’s Capitol Hill neighborhood, the little backyard was as arid as their wallets. 

“It was hot, really hot,” she told me as we sat in the garden the other day, eating peanuts and hummus and sipping iced tea out of thick glasses with air bubbles in the surface. “It’s like a Greek island, I thought. Anything I grow has to survive a Greek island in the sun.”

I’m listening, but Kristen’s hair is fascinating me. It’s a platinum chop, springing willfully this way and that, but tinged with the palest wash of green, like the inside of a ripe honeydew.  

That she’d have dyed it such wouldn’t surprise me; she has an artist’s quirky sense of color and style. But no, it’s just the sun filtering through the leaves of the crape myrtle, a 30-foot giant with branches that spread like a vast green and pink-flowered umbrella above our heads.  

Nothing like then. 

Then, there were high, lattice-topped wooden walls enclosing the space, a brick patio below the deck off the kitchen, and a patch of concrete under a dilapidated playhouse, which they promptly pulled down.

Greenery was “borrowed” from one neighbor’s giant holly behind the back fence and another neighbor’s wisteria, which frothed fragrant purple flowers in spring. They furnished the space with a settee, a few chairs and a play area for Maddie.  

Kristen, who frequently writes about vegetarian and vegan cooking and dining for the Washington Post, NPR and a host of other news sources, hungered for vegetables. In what became a tradition, for her first Mother’s Day in the house, Rick built a couple of raised beds for rutabagas and ramps and what-not. Another Mother’s Day brought roses, and the next the strawberry-pink crape myrtle, which they planted in a corner next to the fence. “It was supposed to be six feet tall,” she said, glancing up and up with a laugh. 

Famous last words, as they say. 

“We went from a desert island to a rain forest,” said Kristen, who moved her vegetable growing to a community plot around the corner. Except for a small border of shade-loving impatiens, and a few boxes of essential herbs near the kitchen door, there are few flowers at eye level. 

This is not to say there’s no color—there’s eye-popping color everywhere. It’s like a whimsical cantina in the Caribbean or a taste of the funky side of the Bahamas or the Florida Keys.

There’s a rainbow flag on one fence wall above a bright yellow sign hand painted in black that says Dolce Far Niente, Italian for “sweet to do nothing.” Standing in for flowers are pink metal buckets of shells, turquoise plastic furniture, carpets, umbrellas  and found treasures filling one corner, a yellow wooden hutch that was found on the street. 

In fact, much of the garden is a tribute to street-shopping—Capitol Hill, with its comings and goings is a paradise for the scavenger. Some things, however, came with an unanticipated cost. 

The sidewalk was the source of the boards that are suspended from the lattice that fronts the deck. “$100 in hardware for two free shelves,” she says of the shiny metal cables and hinges pieced together to hang them. 

Those shelves serve as a bar on what Kristen and Rick call “Speakeasy” nights, when a very mixed bag of friends is invited to drop by after dark, entering through the surprisingly woodsy alley that runs behind the houses (they won’t answer the front doorbell). Suddenly you’ve left the city, you’re no longer six blocks from the Capitol dome, but in a place where magic happens.  

Bring on the punch!

 Blueberry Mojito Punch

Recipe by Kristen Hartke

This refreshing punch is tart, herbaceous and fruity all at once, perfect for a sultry summer evening with friends. Serve with a bucket of crushed ice on the side so guests can have an extra-frosty drink.

Serves 12

8 ounces fresh lime juice, chilled

2 tablespoons light agave nectar

8 ounces blueberry reduction, chilled (recipe below)

16 ounces white rum, chilled

1 liter club soda, chilled (or more as desired)

1 cup (loosely packed) fresh mint leaves, washed

1 pint of fresh blueberries 

1 lime, sliced into thin wheels

Make ahead: Spread the pint of fresh blueberries on a sheet pan and freeze, then store in a freezer-safe container until ready to use.

The key to this punch is to make sure that all the components are well chilled and then mixed together just before you are ready to serve. 

Whisk together the lime juice and agave nectar in the bottom of a punch bowl. Add the blueberry reduction, rum, and club soda, and stir together well; add more club soda as necessary. Lightly crush the fresh mint leaves by squeezing them gently in your hand, then stir them into the punch. Add the frozen blueberries and lime wheels and serve immediately. 

Blueberry Reduction

1½ cups fresh blueberries

1 cup water

2 tablespoons sugar

Place the blueberries, water, and sugar in a blender and blend until smooth. Strain the liquid through a sieve, then place in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer gently until thickened to a syrup, about 20 minutes. Allow to cool to room temperature and then chill thoroughly. Can be stored for up to a week in the refrigerator.

—Stephanie Cavanaugh

LittleBird “Stephanie Gardens” something.

An Open Letter

Above and on the front: iStock.

TO: Young Tech Geniuses

FROM: Geezers Everywhere

RE: Thank you!

You didn’t invent computers or the Internet, but you dreamed up a place there where people could stay in touch with one another. The Winklevoss twins were 21 when they came up with HarvardConnection, and Mark Zuckerberg all of 20 when he was inspired by their idea* and created Facebook. It all started with cool college kids, then younger kids. Photos of taco dinners and vacations.

Then we older folks came along and started posting pix of the kids and the grandkids, and Facebook wasn’t so cool anymore.

Sorry about that, but thanks!

All sorts of entrepreneurial cogitation went into targeting the groups all marketers have been salivating over: millennials, and then Gen X and Y and I suppose Z. So they came up with apps for all sorts of things.

Apps are cool. Geezers don’t use apps, right? Wrong. Ride-hailing apps allow college kids to indulge in beer blasts without the evening ending in drunk driving; they also give us adults a way to get home from the party when we no longer feel confident driving at night.

Pizza delivery and Chinese takeout have been around for decades. But now, thanks to non-cooking millennials (and their parents, for that matter), more than those foodstuffs are being routinely delivered. Think lamb biryani. Also burritos and sushi. Think Grubhub, DoorDash, Seamless and more.

And if we do want to cook, Peapod and other supermarket delivery services are ready to gas up the truck and bring us the ingredients.

Speaking of ingredients, what about Blue Apron? Or Freshly? Or Sun Basket, or Purple Carrot, or Plated? The list goes on. Yes, you still have to prepare the individual elements of your evening meal, but the fixings are already measured out and ready to go. Thanks again, kids.

All the founders and developers of these cool tools aren’t young themselves (though it’s worth noting that Zuckerberg and the Winklevosses are still in their 30s, and Matt Maloney, co-founder and CEO of Grubhub, looks like a teenager even now), but it’s the younger demographic they’re aiming for.

It’s just, Cindy Skryzicki pointed out to me, that we grown-ups are the ones who really benefit.

Skryzicki is a senior lecturer in the Department of English, Journalism and Non-Fiction Writing at the University of Pittsburgh.  She notes that her daughter has a 54-inch sofa in her studio apartment—probably a size that can move right into assisted living! Her daughter also had a roommate who had everything delivered from Amazon, including toilet paper. Hey, especially toilet paper! How convenient is it to have to shlep to the nearest convenience store because someone forgot to buy enough T.P.?

And I’m happy to have the 40-pound bag of dry dog food delivered right to my door.

Some brands have noted, said Skryzicki, that the young people they’re targeting don’t have room to store 24 rolls of toilet paper or paper towels or, for that matter, a 40-pound bag of dry dog food. That has led to worry about the future of Costco and other warehouse stores. It has also led to initiatives like the one from Charmin toilet paper, offering the Forever Roll, which doesn’t last forever but is calculated to last a month. It comes in sizes for single users and larger households—and it’s something older people might rejoice in as well. (Hey, Charmin throws in a free toilet-paper stand as well, and who can argue with that?)

Our cool smartphones and just plain old computers offer lots to older people. It’s fun to play Words With Friends on our phones, or Spider Solitaire on our laptops. And then there’s Netflix, streaming movies into our family rooms, and YouTube, offering just about everything else (including those cute videos where dogs save ducks and things like that).

There’s a down side to all this—this is real life we’re talking about, not a marketing pitch. Some people are frustrated or flummoxed by Alexa and other “smart home hubs,” but that’s okay. Let Saturday Night Live make fun of us battling the machine: We’ll eventually give up and we won’t be spied on by data that, we now know, go both ways.

There’s more. Facebook keeps people in touch, but do they ever go out and really see one another? Those Netflix movies and YouTube videos can eat up hours, time not necessarily spent with others. Not going out to buy groceries or to restaurants for dinner? That’s isolation, not a formula for a healthy social life either.

But tech is the gift horse, and I’m not about to look too deeply into its mouth. When used sensibly, as liquor ads often say, they add convenience and at times life-enhancing possibilities.

And I’m old enough to appreciate that.

—Nancy McKeon

*The Winklevoss twins were awarded $65 million after they settled with Zuckerberg.