For over a decade, we would fly in from our respective homes in Colorado and Virginia to meet in Pike County, Illinois, every May and September. Once there, we stayed at my mother’s ancestral home, a place she cherished, and we maintained years after her death.
We’d rise early in the morning, drink coffee in the sunroom and discuss which section to weed that day.
It was a fruitless battle because it would take only weeks for the weeds to regain the terrain once we’d returned home. But it was our time together, after a relationship of stops and starts.
He was a father of his time. The son of tenant farmers, he was the first in his family to graduate from college, using the GI Bill. He knew how to work hard, but he didn’t know how to play. He was stoic, never silly.
Our together moments were spent laboring. Since his death in 2015, I’ve been pulling the weeds by myself.
I married a man quite different. A feminist, he stayed home for several years to be the children’s primary care-giver. Because I had the job with health insurance, I had to return to work just three weeks after their births. There was no maternity leave, a loss that I still mourn.
He was the only male in the “Mommy and Me” exercise class and could French braid our daughter’s hair with enviable skill. He made our children laugh with goofy noises, cartoonish faces and singing off-key with the Spice Girls.
In the ‘80s and ‘90s, a stay-at-home dad was an anomaly.
But fathering has changed. Our grandchildren’s fathers had parental leave, just like their wives. They receive time off from work when the kids are sick.
This Father’s Day, I celebrate how tenderly my son-in-law shushes the baby and engages in a gibberish competition with the toddler. I watch videos of my sondancing with his children employing comical moves, showing them how to abandon themselves to the joy of movement.
Three generations of men raising children brings us fathers who are fully committed to the beauty and messiness of child-rearing as the norm, not the exception.
These are children loved by men in a society where, finally, masculinity allows them to be nurturers — societal progress with great gifts of gentleness and permission to be silly.
Perhaps, now, fatherhood is really just parenthood. And the fight is no longer as much about gender roles as it is keeping the children safe.
—Christine Ledbetter, the former arts editor of the Washington Post, lives in the Midwest and writes about culture.
Be sun smart with a brimmed hat, shades and swim shirt from Hat Attack, Persol and Coolibar, respectively. Fake a blush with Milk Makeup’s lip and cheek cream stick, recharge skin with Vitamin C from Paula’s Choice. Finally, add a spritz of cool with Dior’s Eau Sauvage.
By Janet Kelly
THE 2022 summer solstice falls on June 21—when the sun reaches its highest point of the year, officially marking the first day of summer. That means school’s out (you know, figuratively speaking), and hot-weather activities are poised to go full blast. To that end, we’ve come up with a wanna-have list for the season. Our picks are below:
LEFT, NEAR LEFT: Advice about sunscreens constantly changes. Two we like are EltaMD’s UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46, which shields your complexion from harmful UVA and UVB rays with 9% transparent zinc oxide. It’s $39 at Dermstore. Neutrogena’s Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunscreen Lotion ($7.97, Amazon) with broad spectrum SPF 55 gets points for being lightweight and fast-absorbing. A non-greasy, matte finish makes for a smooth application to face and body.
NEAR RIGHT, RIGHT: Don’t forget to protect your lips, particularly if you’re swimming, boating or playing pickle ball. Aquaphor’s SPF 30 Lip Protectant with Sunscreen ($3.97, Amazon) soothes dry pouts with shea butter and shields them from UVA and UVB rays. This Clear Zinc Sport Stick Sunscreen SPF 30 ($10.99, Amazon) from Babo Botanicals is a handy way to apply sun protection not only to your lips, but also to your ears — frequently forgotten in the process. Pro tip: Reapply when you get out of the water, but also when you sweat.
LEFT: Look stylish and sharp while staying sun protected with Coolibar’s UPF 50+ Ruche Swim Shirt ($89). Cinch up the sides for a dip in the pool or wear longer as a tunic. The chlorine- and saltwater-resistant stretchy fabric keeps those stripes and white background looking fresh.
RIGHT: Prefer a whimsical print? Tommy Bahama has you covered (UPF 50) with its nylon-and-spandex Scrolls rashguard ($128 Nordstrom) when you want to linger in the surf. Wear it with matching bikini bottoms ($79.50) or pull-on shorts.
LEFT: Add a delicious pop of color and keep your face stylishly shaded under Frances Valentine’s Canvas Fringe Hat ($78). With a 23-inch circumference, it’s one size fits all. Stow it in your tote bag and/or pack in your suitcase for summer adventures.
RIGHT: Giddyup. Cowboy hats, like this one ($138, Saks Fifth Avenue) from Hat Attack, are everywhere this summer. Made of raffia and trimmed in leather, it has an adjustable sweatband to ensure the perfect fit. Add to your fashionable hat collection, but for sun protection, go wider, as in Wallaroo Hats’ Scrunchie ($78), which has a 4½” brim and a UPF 50+ fabric that blocks 97.5% of ultraviolet rays, according to the Australian Radiation Protection Agency.
ABOVE: Worn by pilots, race car drivers and mountain climbers to avoid glare, the 100-year-old Persol brand is known for its high-clarity crystal lenses and flexible design that allows the stems to adapt to the unique shape of the wearer. Unlike most of its competitors, Persol’s only business is eyewear. This narrow-fitting style, available in five lens colors, sells for $320.
BELOW: The acrobatic airplane moves in “Top Gun Maverick” were jaw-dropping, but what I really liked—and wanted to have—was a pair of aviators like Tom Cruise’s and Jennifer Connelly’s. These hexagonal-shaped Ray-Bans, a tweak of the traditional shape, sell for $163 at Sunglass Hut. Also, have a look at this pair, inspired by General Douglas MacArthur, and available at vintage retailer Fabulous Fanny’s. For a less pricey aviator option, check out this one from Specs.
LEFT, NEAR LEFT: Vitamin C is about the only product besides a retinol that dermatologists agree improves the look of your skin. Because you mix it yourself, Drunk Elephant claims that its C-Firma Fresh Vitamin-C Day Serum ($78, Sephora) stays fresh longer—that is, it doesn’t turn an unsightly orange. After many months of using my C-Firma, it’s just now losing its potency. I’ll either buy it again or give Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster (reduced from $52 to $41.60) a go. Known as the cosmetics cop, Paula Begoun began her truth-telling mission about beauty products well before she started making her own. Her book Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me is in its eighth edition.
RIGHT, FAR RIGHT: I don’t much like bronzers or self-tanners (too finicky), but I do need a cream blush, not a powder one (it gets into wrinkles), to perk up my pale skin. About a year ago, I bought a sample of Milk Makeup’s Lip + Cheek Cream Blush Stick ($21, Sephora). I rarely used it on my lips, but it was heavenly to apply and blend. With ingredients like avocado and apricot oils, it never left my skin feeling dry. I’m also in like with the pink tint (it also comes in coral and red) and feel of this On-The-GlowBlush ($18, Pixi). My only beef is I wish the shape were rounder to make it less unwieldy to apply.
LEFT: Whenever I look for it, Diptyque’s L’Eau ($150) is always sold out. If you can sniff it out, you’ll breathe in a spicy blend of clove and cinnamon with ginger and geranium notes. Diptyque is also making an offer that’s hard to pass up: “Each fragrance purchase includes a matching sample. Use the sample to test the fragrance on your skin before opening the full-size bottle. We will gladly accept unopened returns within 14 days of original purchase, free of charge.”
RIGHT: I frequently sneak a spritz of my husband’s Eau Sauvage ($104, Sephora), particularly during hot weather when the citrusy scent with dashes of vetiver, jasmine and oak moss feels refreshing but refined, too. A classic scent, not to be confused with Sauvage, a more recent Dior fragrance for men.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
An Annapolis, Maryland, reader said she was game to wear a mini with dark tights and boots. And that’s a spot-0n way to wear the trend—in winter—but given the number of hot summer days in our future, maybe now could be the ideal time to hoist our hems. After all, many of us are baring—at least the lower part of their legs—in cropped pants and Bermuda shorts. Plus, sportswear sites and catalogues, such as Lands’ End and Athleta, are filled with skorts, swim skirts and the like, all of which should be getting one’s eyes accustomed to seeing more leg. If you’re brave enough to put on a bathing suit . . .
One Pittsburgh reader—in her late 70s—is brave enough to put on a mini with bare legs: “I still wear short dresses and skirts with sandals in the summer. I’m not sure they’re like the minis I wore in the ‘60’s and ’70’s, but I think they look okay—I have slim legs.” Another Pittsburgher says her over-60, buff niece looks terrific in the very short skirts. As a recently retired Philadelphia lawyer wisely observed: “It’s all a question of how you feel in your own skin. If you feel like wearing a mini, go for it.”
A couple of you preferred to wear your skirts just above the knee. “It’s a flattering length on me,” said the Philly lawyer, while a DC-area denizen liked the length “because they’re much cooler” than long skirts. Also, she said finding skirts that fall just below the knees is difficult.
After searching sites for above-the-knee and below-the-knee skirts—looking for ones that not only met the length requirements but also were fashionable—we concur. Pickings were slim, but we did spy a few cute examples from Gucci, Boden, Halsbrook and Zadig & Voltaire.
On the other hand, if midis and maxis are your ideal length for skirts/dresses, guess what? The options are many—in a range of prices—from the likes of Frank & Eileen, Farm Rio and Hill House Home.
LEFT: Athleta advertises its All-Day Skort ($59) “for commuting, work and travel.” Although we can’t imagine it being appropriate for all but the most casual workplaces, it’s sure to feel cool, thanks to a lightweight, stretchy fabric. Built-in shorts eliminate the flash factor and a back zip pocket keeps your smartphone secure.
RIGHT: Mini skirt lengths range from between about 10 and 20 inches long. This Board Skort Swim Skirt gives you a choice in how high you want your hemline (it’s available in 10-, 14- and 20-inch lengths). A UPF50 protective fabric and three pockets—two in front and one hidden in the waistband—are details that add to its practicality for the beach and beyond. It sells for $64.95 at Lands’ End.
LEFT: An online retailer focusing on high-quality garments for the 50-plus market, Halsbrook curates its clothing collections from more than 100 American and European designers, such as this crisp-but-feminine Aqua Cotton Dress ($415) in that coveted just-below-the-knee length.
RIGHT: The airy, lace-trimmed hem on Zadig & Voltaire’s floral-print skirt ($348), worn together with suede cowboy boots, could make the mini-skirt-averse a convert.
LEFT: Hitting at that sweet spot just below the knee, Gucci’s Drawstring Printed Skirt with text that reads as a love letter to California is delightfully original but requires deep pockets. It sells for a budget-busting $2,100 at Farfetch.
RIGHT: Gentler on the wallet, Boden’s cheery red linen skirt is a perfect length for some and an almost-there for others. The slight flare at the hem puts a bit of a swish in your walk. Hidden pockets and concealed zipper streamline the silhouette. It sells for $98.
LEFT: Made of tissue-thin voile, Frank & Eileen’s midi shirtwaist (reduced from $288 to $172.80 in this cobalt color) with its lean look and easy-to-roll sleeves is a breezy but polished choice for summer when you want to feel cool but look put together. And, it doubles as a swim coverup.
CENTER: Oliphant Design is known for bold prints and interesting silhouettes, such as this below-the-knee diamond-print caftan, made from cotton voile and appointed with punchy turquoise tassels. It’s $248 and will be available soon, according to the Halsbrook website.
RIGHT: In mid-weight ponte (a tightly woven fabric that holds its shape and appearance), this mini geometric dress, also from Halsbrook, is unfortunately sold out in popsicle orange, with limited size availability in periwinkle, as well as a floral print. Add to your wish list on the site in case it comes back in stock.
LEFT: Easy is how Everlane describes itsButton-Front Skirt with pockets, ruffled waistband and side slits. We couldn’t agree more. It sells for $78 and comes in other colors, including black, pewter green and white.
RIGHT: Trademarked by lifestyle brand Hill House, the Nap Dress® is a riff on the house dress—remember those? They’ve been around since at least the 1950s, maybe longer (the style supposedly originated from a Victorian gown), but they’ve recently enjoying a renaissance. Anyway, this midi-length, girly Ellie Dress ($150) is way too cute to nap in. The watercolor design is based on vintage floral prints, in case you were asking.
LEFT: Svelte but structured because of the collar and lean silhouette, the Rory Lived In Linen ($308) dress in denim from Frank & Eileen is only available in limited sizes as are most of the other hues. Linen lovers, rejoice. If you’re on the sidelines about the wrinkles, this dress is not for you. Constant ironing is not a smart solution for summer.
RIGHT: Made from breezy Swiss-dot-cotton voile, Farm Rio’s Jungle Flow Maxi Skirt with a tropical print pattern is made for floating into summer garden parties and barbecues. It’s $195 at Saks Fifth Avenue.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
WEEKS AGO, when we all thought Elon Musk had bought Twitter and promised to make it a level playing field, I decided to sign up. I am already sorry.
Since signing on I have received three e-mails from Twitter. The first one welcomed me to the platform, the second one encouraged me to get busy tweeting, and the last one said, “Fill your time with talk.” It went on to describe how to find people to follow and what sorts of things I might say to them, just in case I am a babbling idiot.
I still don’t get what a hashtag is so I think my days on Twitter will be few. Also, I don’t want to fill my days with talk, I’d rather fill them with paint. Or maybe fettuccini, which I never eat because it is so high in calories.
Could You, Would You, Should You—Wear a Mini Skirt?
By Janet Kelly
WE HAD all but dismissed the thought of ever wearing a miniskirt again. But last weekend’s Wall Street Journal story, in which an-over-40 soccer mom gave it a try, rocked our complacency.
At Moda Operandi, minis are selling out at a rate that’s 10% higher than other categories, according to a buyer. Moreover, the online retailer is “increasing miniskirt supply for the rest of the year by about 20%.” Fashion historian and director of NYC’s Museum at F.I.T. Valerie Steele, who notes minis cycle in and out of fashion, refers to them as “a kind of dopamine dressing.”
From left to right: High School’s pant-skirt hybrid eliminates any concern about exposure. Marine Serre’s cycling skirt ($446, Farfetch) is another hybrid—between a skirt and shorts. If you feel bad about your knees, the logo tights pretty much camouflage them. Worn with a duster, Max Mara’s slim-cut cotton-twill mini with apron pockets ($315) gives the illusion of additional coverage without actually covering up your legs.
To see whether or not the mini would work for her, the WSJ writer borrowed a few styles from fashion designers and experimented with ways to wear them. She paired one Max Mara denim mini with a cashmere sweater and low-top sneakers, and another (in a cotton stripe) with knee-high boots. She tried on a Tod’s print with a matching jacket for the look of a suit set. Results were mixed, but overall, minis received her thumbs-up.
Could women in their 60s and 70s, the generation that wore the first miniskirts, wear them again? Must you be as young as your knees, as Mary Quant, the inventor of the miniskirt, attested?
Intrigued? Take a look at our examples above and notice how they’re worn. Then, tell us what you think about wearing one yourself. Either jot down your thoughts in the comments box below or send an email to janet@mylittlebird.com.
I’M TELLING you people—for whatever ails you, acupuncture is the answer. I wasted six months of my waning life going to see traditional doctors and physical therapists, none of whom made the slightest dent in the nonstop pain I was suffering in my knee. In fact, over that time it got a lot worse. All the doctors said the same things: It’s arthritis, you’re old, take painkillers, ice your knee, elevate your leg and get used to it.
Then I suddenly remembered my former acupuncturist who helped calm my soaring blood pressure about three years ago and figured it was worth a try. My first visit to him was 23 days ago and today I can say with assurance that I am cured. My knee no longer hurts when I walk down the stairs, or anywhere. It is no longer swollen. I can do anything. I haven’t taken a painkiller or muscle relaxant in weeks. (Sadly I am still old, but that’s not fixable.)
You might want to give it a try. And just in case you’re a baby, it doesn’t hurt at all.
Coastal grannie essentials. Clockwise from left to right, Alex Mill’s white linen shirt, Mango jumbo jute bag, Rothy’s washable loafer and Solbari’s beach hat.
By Janet Kelly
YOUDON’T have to own a spectacular beach house on the East or West coast to wear this trend. No doubt you’ve heard about the Coastal Grandmother (CG) look, inspired by the wardrobe of the characters of Diane Keaton and Meryl Streep in Nancy Meyer movies (vintage early 2000s). Surprisingly coined by a 26-year-old on Tik Tok this past January, the term Coastal Grandmother has garnered an enthusiastic following. Before you get the idea that this is anything new, it’s not. But if you’re already wearing linen shirts and pants in pale colors, you’re right in style.
Whether or not you’ve got unlimited means like Oprah, the essential embodiment of the look, or are even a grandmother, it’s forgiving and flattering for grown-up girls and particularly well suited to summer when lightweight, breathable fabrics are us.
Below, some CG suggestions:
LEFT: Don’t shell out big bucks for white jeans. They take—and show—a lot of abuse and rarely last more than a season or two. I’m game to try these not-so-precious all-cotton Straight High-Rise Denim Jeans, which look sturdy and slimming. They’re $49.90 from Uniqlo.
RIGHT: When you’re going for a look that’s crisp but laidback, pull on these wide-leg linen pants ($198, Ralph Lauren) with elasticized waist and belt that ties into a tidy bow. Pair them with a denim shirt and sandals, and you’ll nail the coastal grandmother vibe.
LEFT: What’s more classic and perfect for summer than a linen button-down? The sleeves and cuffs are a tad long on this Wyatt Shirt ($135, Alex Mill), so you can easily fold them up back for more casual situations. If you stress over wrinkles and rumples, opt for J. Crew’s gauzy cotton-blend blouse as an alternative—a less expensive one—to linen.
RIGHT: Inspired by its menswear chinos, Alex Mill’s womenswear version— the Boyish Chino in vintage khaki—is made for a relaxed fit. But if you prefer more tailored, the adjustable waist tabs let you have it your way. Fun detail: Striped pocket lining. They sell for $145.
LEFT: Spend less on linen with Everlane’s relaxed take on summer’s quintessential shirt ($80). In addition to this lovely pale blue, it also comes in white, black, coppery brown, leek green, blue pinstripe and a coffee check.
RIGHT: If you’re game to channel Diane Keaton in the 2003 film Something’s Gotta Give, put this currently sold-out creamy rib-knit turtleneck (a wool-cashmere blend) on your wish list and hope that it comes back in stock in time for a chilly night at the beach—or wherever you are or your travels may take you.
ABOVE LEFT: You’re wearing sunscreen with at least a 30 SPF? Good. But beef up your protection with Solibari’s Wide Brim Beach Hat ($50). A generous 3.7-inch brim shades your face and neck and a detachable chin strap ensures it stays on your head when the breeze blows. The UPF 50+ means it blocks 98 percent of the sun’s UVA and UB+VB rays, significantly reducing your exposure risk. It’s also reversible—two color options—and packable.
BELOW LEFT: If you’ve seen the ads, you know the great Helen Mirren favors Cariuma sneakers. Presumably she likes the style and the low environmental impact of the brand. I already own a white pair but if I were to need another one, I think the soles on these ($79) are so darn cute.
RIGHT: Rothy’s claim to fame is that it diverts plastic bottles from landfills and transforms them into its special thread, which is then knit into cushy, machine-washable shoes with nubby outsoles for grip and durability. The Driver slip-on loafer comes in classic colors like this beige, but also in seasonal ones like lime green, orchid and a pale blue. It sells for $185.
LEFT: You know when you just need a light layer over your shoulders, nothing too bulky or warm? That’s when you’ll wish you had this yummy cashmere poncho in oatmeal with a light pink stripe trim. Furthermore, it’s reduced from $298 to $189.90 at J. McLaughlin.
RIGHT: Summertime and straw go together like … . This jumbo jute basket bag ($59.99, Mango) with cotton lining and adjustable closure can accommodate everything you need for your expedition of choice, be it a picnic in the park, a day at the beach or a shopping trip to Costco. It’s a generous 24 inches wide and 12.2 inches deep.
LEFT: I may be remembering it wrong, but I thought Diane Keaton wore white silk pajamas in one of the scenes from Something’s Gotta Give. Anyway, what else would you wear in your Architectural Digest-worthy Hamptons house with a dry cleaner on speed-dial and live-in laundress? La Perla’s pajama set is a splurge-y $440 at Neiman Marcus.
RIGHT: Nowhere near as luxe—nor spendy—J. Crew’s cotton long-sleeve pajamas is the right choice for those of us who think matching pjs will make us sleep better. And you can look somewhat presentable when you fall out of bed. With a relaxed fit, it’s comfy without being schlumpy. It’s priced at $98, but use code SUMMER for 30% off the full price. Note to self: good incentive to replace your old set.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
It’s just black and white. From left to right, Uniqlo, Athleta and Stateside latest T-shirts.
By Janet Kelly
MY LIST of summer cannot-do-withouts include two or three—or more—of white T-shirts. Wearing a crisp, classic white T-shirt in the morning can even make you feel fresh on a soggy summer day. Moreover, the best white ones can be paired with just about everything, from a pair of blue jeans to a mini, maxi or midi skirt. They can also look charming without being girly worn beneath a sleeveless dress. And, don’t neglect black tees. White pants look oh-so-chic with black. Think Jackie O on Capri wearing white jeans, a black T-shirt, oversize black sunglasses and sandals.
Now that’s settled, the question becomes which white or black ones to choose. To answer, we convened (via e-mail) an expert panel—our readers from D.C., New York City, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh and outside of Chicago. Plus we got input from MyLittleBird staffers Kathy Legg and Mary Carpenter.
You preferred your tees be not too long, not too short (enough fabric to tuck in or leave out), have a slim fit but not be too tight or too loose and you liked lightweight.
Below, we’ve picked out some that check those boxes. And, just for fun, we threw in a couple of outrageously expensive choices.
LEFT: When more on a whim than necessity I purchased this ruched, elbow-length T-shirt for $120, I figured I had paid too much. But it really came in handy when I was in Arizona the beginning of April and the dress code for the evening event I was going attend was black tie—something I had not expected. I paired the silky Pervuvian cotton tee from Goldie Lewinter with a pleated, flowy knit skirt, and it looked just dressy enough—if not entirely dress appropriate— when I added a string of pearls. I’ve worn it several times since.
RIGHT: The James Perse black T-shirt I bought at least 10 years ago has endured, if a little on the faded side. A newer version with a slightly cropped hem and relaxed structure—the Vintage Little Boy Tee ($80)—has the same qualities I liked in the older one—it’s 100% cotton and features a finished crew neckline and hem.
LEFT: For my New Jersey pal (Nancy G.) who favors Gap’s lightweight T-shirts for fit, fabric and length, I think the brand’s cotton-modal blend Modern V-Neck, also available in crewneck, will strike her fancy. It’s $24.95, but take 40% off with code FRIEND, and that comes to a wallet-friendly $14.97.
RIGHT: Our amazing art and photo editor, Kathy Legg, sticks with Gap, too. She buys all-cotton white and black V-necks that are not fitted, like this one for $14.95 that’s also 40% off with code FRIEND. But you have to be careful, she says.
“Quality varies according to which country produced the shirt. For example, those coming from India are subpar. The ones made in Vietnam are swell.”
LEFT: If you like a sculpted look, Monrow’s Fitted Crew Neck—a blend of 50% polyester, 38% cotton and 12% rayon—may be, er, the right fit. For a more relaxed shape, order a size up. It’s long enough to wear with pants without a high rise, but it’s not bulky if you want to tuck it into trousers. Wear it with a blazer or more casually, with a zip-up sweatshirt.
RIGHT: What matters to New York City photography collector Linda K. is cut and how the T-shirt looks on her. She prefers shirts that are not expensive because “they take a lot of abuse in the washer and dryer, and I’m always getting them dirty.” Currently, Uniqlo’s styles, such as Supima Cotton Crew Neck Short-Sleeve ($14.95), are on her radar. The crisp white color is a compelling selling point.
LEFT: Our hard-working Well-Being editor, Mary Carpenter, usually opts for print T-shirts. When she’s not wearing those, her favorite is a black one from Eileen Fisher. Similar to the one Mary has owned for a while and that she purchased on sale is this Flex Ponte Crew Neck Top, which fills her requirements for sleeve length (at least 3/4), a loose jewel neck and fabric with some structure. She’s disappointed with how expensive they’ve become—it sells for $168. At least this one is washable.
RIGHT: Former Washington Post arts editor, freelance writer and MyLittleBird contributor, Christine L., likes a sculpted sleeve, a fitted silhouette—nothing boxy. She finds ones that best suit her at Athleta, such as this Speedlight Seamless Tee ($54), made of nylon and spandex. Plus, you can wear it for a workout. Internal hem grippers make it stay put when you move.
LEFT: Former director of newsroom operations at the Washington Post, Melissa M. likes fitted tees with Spandex so they don’t lose their shape in either crew- or V-neck. This Tara crewneck ($68) from Michael Stars may not have quite enough Spandex to fit her requirements, but it looks figure flattering to us.
RIGHT: Like with blue jeans, the best way to find the best T-shirt for your body is to keep trying them on until you strike gold. That’s how I view my Stateside slub jersey tee ($72), purchased late last summer. Made of cotton that’s irregularly knit and slightly textured, it holds its shape and has a laid-back vibe without being loose. Importantly, it doesn’t cling to body bits I would rather not emphasize.
Finally, both Lafayette 148 NY’s Modern V-Neck Tee (left) and Loro Piana’s My-T Roundneck (right) belong in the category of just how much are you willing to spend on a T-shirt, beyond fabulous fabric and first-rate fit? The former definitely has desirable details —superior cotton, finished hems along the neck, hemline and sleeves, a good hip length and a fit that’s somewhere between fitted and relaxed. Still, it’s a spendy $198. If you’ve got gobs of money and want to telegraph that to the very few who would even notice, then, maybe you’ll shell out $425 for Loro Piana’s.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
YOU MAY—but probably not—recall that last January I was mulling over whether to have an eyelift by Dr. B., an oculoplastic surgeon, a cheek and neck lift by Dr. M., a plastic surgeon, or just leave well enough alone.
Before
Despite my ambivalence, after an evaluation with Dr. B., I penciled myself in on April 22 for an upper blepharoplasty. That’s the technical term for an upper eye lift. I reasoned that I could always chicken out —the beginning of January seemed lightyears away. Except, I didn’t—cancel. A few reasons: I wanted to look more alive or at least awake—I noticed that I looked tired even when I slept nine hours the night before. Dr. B. confirmed that my eyelids were drooping and that I was in the habit of opening my eyes wider to see more. So, one big pro for the procedure was better vision. Moreover, because it was a functional blepharoplasty (to correct impaired vision, rather than just for cosmetic reasons), insurance would likely pay for it. Other pluses were that it was an outpatient procedure, would take less than an hour and was done under local anesthesia. Most important was the choice of a surgeon. I had heard from many different sources—friends who had the same surgery and looked good, another friend who’s an optometrist and said, “Dr. B’s the best,” and finally my own internist when he inquired who would be doing my eye surgery, said, “If you had told me you had chosen anyone else, I would have asked you why.”
Two weeks before my crossing this Rubicon, I had a punch list. One pre-op requirement was a limited physical (including an electrocardiogram). I had to stop taking things like aspirin and NSAIDS ( I didn’t take those anyway) and no Vitamin E or fish oil supplements permitted. Ginger and garlic were also no-nos—they’re all blood thinners. On the to-do list was to buy frozen peas to have on hand post-surgery. I divvied up large bags into sandwich-size ones I would need to apply to my eyes as soon as I got home from the hospital. More on that later.
During
Initially I was disappointed my procedure wouldn’t be in Dr. B.’s office. I shouldn’t have been. Although it was located about 40 minutes from my home, as opposed to his office, which is 10 minutes, the surgical center where I went was immaculate, the staff personal, my doctor a calming, reassuring presence. He explained right before my surgery what he told me in January —that he would remove 90 percent of excess skin, that incisions are made in the natural creases of the lids so they’re hard to detect. And, my eyes would look as if I were well rested afterwards. Note: If too much skin is removed from the upper eyelids, it may affect your ability to fully close your eyes. Ugh.
The most painful part of the operation was when the nurse inserted the anesthesia tube in my arm. I was in pre-op for a while, lying around waiting until my number came up. About the only things I can remember about what happened next was the operating room was blindingly white and that three big circles of lights that looked like shower-head sprinklers shone over my head.
After
I left the recovery room with a page or so of instructions, the gist of which was no exercise for about 10-14 days, especially no bending down for a long time. I had to sleep on my back, propped with three pillows under my head for the next couple of days—to reduce swelllng. Side sleeper that I am, this was probably the most difficult of the instructions to follow. I had to ice my eye area or apply at least four times a day for 20 minutes each time for the first three days –while awake! This is where those frozen peas come in. Each time I iced my eyes, the frozen pack of peas stuck to my face most uncomfortably—I thought I was getting freezer burn until a friend who asked how I was doing said to wrap the bags of peas in a linen cloth. I had to apply an eye ointment on the stitches three times a day. Day three and four, I could switch to cold compresses for the same 20-minute, four times a day drill. During this time I was black and blue all around my eyes and onto my cheek bones. What I think helped the bruising was homeopathic arnica, which I took three days before surgery and three days after.
On Day 10, I saw Dr. B., who removed the stitches that hadn’t dissolved and recommended that I stay with the compress routine—now it was 20 minutes of warm compresses four times a day. Did I mention that on Day 5 after surgery I went to my friend’s poetry reading? It was in the evening, but I wore sunglasses the entire time. Not a soul asked me why but I’m pretty sure my purplish bruises gave me away, despite the sunnies. By Day 14, I had some residual bruising on one cheek and still had some swelling, along with irritated, dry eyes. GenTeal eye drops and moist warm compresses helped that situation.
You’re advised to avoid sun exposure to lessen the risk of scar discoloration. Also no eye makeup allowed until healed completely. To the rescue: Lipstick and tinted moisturizer cover the bruises that remain.
End Note
Finally, a nod to Val Monroe. Wish I were less vain, but in any case, I don’t think I f*cked up my face.
I’VE BEEN pretty depressed for the last few months and haven’t really known why. Yes, the murder of thousands of innocents and the destruction of beautiful old buildings and entire towns in Ukraine is definitely a downer. And then there’s Covid, still sort of hanging around, at least enough to make us pull out the mask, now a pitiful joke, whenever we enter an establishment that requires it. And people still getting sick and dying of Covid is a bummer.
But there have been other wars and other pandemics and I can’t remember feeling this grim about them. Then it hit me, today, when I caught a glimpse of him on the Internet: I miss Ted Lasso! He always made me laugh and feel good about the world just for his being in it. Then he was over and I was on my own again.
Even though he is fictional, and for all I know Jason Sudeikis is a real prick (although I doubt it because he named his daughter Daisy), still the character named Ted Lasso gave me hope that some people like him actually do exist, or else how did the writers dream him up?
I guess I’ll have to watch the whole series again until it comes back this November.
An image of Secundus the Silent wearing the earliest form of eyeglasses, rivet spectacles, two magnifying glasses on the ends of metal handles riveted together. / Michel Wolgemut (workshop of), 1493.
“Portrait of Benedictus van Haeften” by Cornelis Martinus Vermeulen, (1654-1709). The scholar Van Haeften holding glasses that point to sight as a crucial component of his work.
With his glasses featured so prominently, this portrait of Nino de Guevara is meant to convey his power as a cardinal and Spanish inquisitor general. /El Greco, circa 1600.
“Portrait of an Artist Sketching a Portrait Miniature” by Franz Jacob Josef Ignatz von Predl (1799) depicts the visually demanding profession of a miniaturist painter with finely drawn bow spectacles, reflecting the delicacy of metal frames by the end of the 18th century.
This mid-18th-century lorgnette fan, with a tiny prospect-glass lens in its handle, is similar to the diamond-studded one Queen Marie Antoinette received as a gift in 1782.
A spy or opera glass by Josiah Wedgwood from the late 18th century. The jasperware was meant to imitate ancient Roman cameo glass.
Spyglass lenses screw onto either end of this vanity case, circa 1760-1800, which also holds grooming tools.
This caricature shows the earl of Derby with his then mistress (and leading actress of the day), Elizabeth Warren, holding a fashionable spy glass to inspect pictures at James Christie’s. “A Peep at Christie’s; -or-Tally-ho & His Nimeny-pimeney taking the Morning Lounge”by James Gillray, September 24, 1796.
This miniature portrait of Sir Joshua Reynolds (1792) by Thomas Peat illustrates the use of upturned temples, as opposed to spiral or ring temples. It is based on Sir Joshua Reynolds’s self-portrait of 1788, one year before he lost sight in his left eye.
President Theodore Roosevelt’s close association with the pince-nez meant that this pair of glasses could escape its associations with the introverted scholars of the nineteenth century./ Photograph by Eugene Ashton Perry, 1901.
In this photograph of Lillian Russell by J. Schloss, circa 1898, her monocle is worn more as jewelry and an expression of luxury and femininity than useful object.
MY LITTLE BIRD recently spoke with Jessica Glasscock, author of Making a Spectacle: A Fashionable History of Glasses, (Black Dog and Leventhal, 2021) about the evolution of eyewear, from useful tool of medieval monks to 21st century must-have accessory.
MLB: You mention that the first eyeglasses started with a jewel—a clear beryl crystal, made for use by anyone whose career involved having to read and write. Were early glasses more like magnifying glasses?
JG: The first eyeglasses were essentially readers—either a single eyeglass or a pair riveted together that was handheld. You don’t see concave lenses—for nearsightedness—until the 15th century.
Author Jessica Glasscock is a lecturer in fashion history at Parsons School of Design and worked as a researcher at NYC’s Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute for more than a decade. / Photo by Nicholas Needham.
MLB: You say men were the earliest, most frequent users of glasses. What about women?
JG: Although mass-produced readers became available in the early 17th century, there’s not a lot of documentation of women wearing glasses, although women who were involved in textile production and doing fine lacework would have needed spectacles as much as men did for accounting.
MLB: Talk a little about those beautiful spyglasses/jealousy glasses that the likes of Madame Pompadour and Marie Antoinette wore.
JG: The spy glass (a single glass over one eye) and the miniature lorgnette, based on the technology of the telescope and adorned with intricate carvings and pastoral scenes, were the first eyeglasses as fashionable accessory for women. That they looked like jewelry was a big part of the appeal. A variation of the mini lorgnette, a jealousy glass, had one lens for seeing the ballet or theater stage, plus a magnified mirror positioned at an angle to observe what was going on behind the user.
MLB: Who sold eyeglasses?
JG: The earliest distributors were peddlers who carried around baskets of lenses with various strengths. You’d try them on until you got the right one. From the 18th century on, optometry was developing as a field and everything was getting lighter and more precise, while jewelers were making glasses beautiful. Cartier started making glasses at the end of the 19th century. When the question came up of who was going to sell eyeglasses—optometrists won the day. You couldn’t sell glasses until you had an optometrist on site.
MLB: This sentence from a 1920s WWD article was kind of shocking: “Eyeglasses are one of those things . . . that require infinitely greater skill to persuade people to buy than something like a new dress or new suit. Particularly is this so with women, many of whom, believing glasses disfiguring, would sooner hire a guide than wear ‘spectacles.”
JG: Glasses for women were associated with aging, while good vision was the mark of health, which influenced many women to resist wearing glasses. Moreover, the 1920s was a youth quake—the era of the flapper—when nobody wanted to look old.
MLB: When did fashion crack the code on glasses; what precipitated that change?
JG:First came the emergence of sunglasses as a fashion item, spurred on by technical innovation—Edwin Land’s 1932 perfection of light-filtering plastic sheet known as Polaroid), which sunglass manufacturers used to make high-performance eyewear for the sports market—for flying planes, driving race cars, skiing. The fact that sunglasses became popular for Hollywood stars—it was a practical solution to the weather—led to their growth and distribution in the 1930s. They become fashionable because people wanted them. What cemented eyeglasses into the fashion firmament was the cat eye or Harlequin frame. In the 1930s, a window dresser named Altina Schinasi thought a display of optical frames was very unappealing and decided to take her idea for a feminine, cheekbone-uplifting Harlequin frame to Lugene, a high-end optical store By 1940, her frames had broken women’s resistance to optical frames and in the 1950s, Harlequin frames defined 1950s fashion eyewear. They were optically correct and covered by insurance to boot.
MLB: Can you explain what you mean when you refer to the “tension between luxury and accessibility that is all over the history of eyewear?”
JG: Eyewear is a special category of accessory because if you need vision correction, you have to wear glasses. There’s an uneasy alliance between people who design fashion eyewear and optometrists. In the 1970s British designer Mary Quant designed a line of oversize glasses, which dominated high-fashion glasses at the time. Because of the extreme scale, though, some prescriptions couldn’t be filled properly. Quant had to design a second line, with more input from optometrists and less fashion over function. Today you mostly see these big frames as sunglasses, which don’t always require prescriptions.
MLB: What’s your take on Warby Parker frames?
JG: The founder of Warby Parker couldn’t believe how much he was paying for a piece of plastic. The company found a new solution, starting with frames with mid-century silhouettes that were becoming popular at the time. They were optometrically correct without a lot of drama.
MLB: Looking into your magic ball, what’s your vision of the future of eyewear?
JG: We’ve been working toward a place where everything exists at the same time: wire frames, round lenses, aviators, cat eyes. Innovation will come in the form of materials, which are becoming lighter and cheaper. What I see happening now is character eyewear. When you want to connect with a certain persona, say Gloria Steinem or Amelia Earhart, you reach for aviators. Feeling retro or eccentric, how about a cat eye? Big-time fashion editor, oversize sunglasses.
MLB: Finally, what inspired you to write a book about the history of eyeglasses?
JG: My editor asked me if I wanted to write this book—I had written about accessories before. Plus, I was interested in how something you need became something you want, how women aged in fashion and why they weren’t wearing glasses for so long.
MLB: In your book’s dedication, you apologize to your mother for the many times you lost your glasses in the second grade. You also said you thought you might have been angling for more pairs. Do you have several now—what are your favorites?
JG: I don’t have a big collection—a mirrored pair, a French pair, an Italian pair. Diana Vreeland would approve. I love luxury eyewear from Gucci, Chloe and Prada, but I’m also a big vintage shopper, so my choices are intentionally limited. Finding a frame that flatters you (if you can find someone who’s an expert who can advise you, that’s the holy grail) is the hardest part of shopping for eyeglasses.
ONE MORNING last October I woke up and noticed that my knee hurt. No big deal, I thought I might have pulled a muscle at the gym the day before. But it got worse and eventually took over my life, becoming just about all I thought about. Then there’s the war in Ukraine, and so I started crying about that every morning when I woke up, right after crying because of my painful knee.
Since then I have gone to my primary care physician (a nice man who knows nothing but is good at Googling), a sports medicine doctor (a smart man who knows about sports injuries but not much else), a physical therapist (a jovial man who is happy to move your body parts around but don’t quote him on anything), all to no avail. I had an X-ray and then an MRI, both of which revealed the presence of some arthritis in the knee but nothing to write home about. A visit to an orthopedic surgeon with a possible knee replacement was suggested. (I decided to save that for when Hell freezes over.)
I’ve iced it and elevated it and rested it, swallowed countless tabs of Advil and Tylenol and CBD, rubbed it with Voltaren and Arnica gel, and still it hurts. So yesterday I went to see an acupuncturist. Right away he asked my age. I said 75. He said, “What did you expect would happen to your body after using it for so long?”
Spring 2022 runways were bursting with blooms. From left to right, a frothy floral maxi from Rebecca Cohen of Love Shack Fancy, a chiffon-trimmed floral-embroidered midi skirt with a pointelle knit cardigan by Markarian’s Alexandra O’Neill and an Edwardian garden party dress from Erdem Moralioglu of Erdem.
By Janet Kelly
EVERYTHING’S coming up roses and daffodils (sorry, Steph), not to mention all kinds of other pretty posies. There’s nothing new about floral prints this time of year, but for spring 2022, blooms in all shapes and colors are popping up more than ever on dresses and skirts, blouses and jackets, even workout clothing.
Some, like fashion bible WWD, call it the Bridgerton effect: “the second season continued the first’s penchant for opulent attire, with characters dressed in floral prints and floral embroidered dresses ….” And viewers took note— searches for floral prints increased by almost 150 percent since the show’s premiere at the end of March.
Then, there’s the appeal of flowers themselves, which make us happy by triggering dopamine in the brain. Who isn’t delighted by the look and smell of flowers?
Couple that with the powering down of the pandemic and no wonder designers, including Alexandra O’Neill at Markarian, Rebecca Cohen at Love Shack Fancy and Erdem Moralioglu at Erdem, jumped on the florals-for-spring bandwagon.
That said, wearing florals can be tricky—and aging. Keep it simple–avoid extras like floppy bows and such. Pare back a floral shirt with black jeans. Keep in mind that sometimes a posy is better than a giant bouquet.
Below, on our radar:
LEFT: Joie’s Rosalind silk blouse with a poppy print is not for the floral bashful. But it looks so light, airy and feminine, not to mention comfortable with those caress-the-elbow wide sleeves. Let it take center stage—by keeping the rest of your outfit to a minimum. No big earrings, please. It sells for $278 at Nordstrom.
RIGHT: Talk about dopamine effect. Even the cloudiest day can’t suppress the spirit of Johnny Was’s floral-embroidered tunic (reduced from $348 to $261 at Neiman Marcus). Drop shoulders and a loose fit add up to a laid-back look for a summer CYA top to wear over slim white jeans or the coordinating Mariposa embroidered linen cargo pant, reduced from $205 to $153.75, also at Neiman Marcus.
LEFT: It’s not a wrap and looks a lot like a Carolina Herrera. With a punchy pink floral motif, Diane von Furstenberg’s cotton midi dress ($418, Mytheresa) with a waist-accentuating belt and elbow-length billowy sleeves gives you that go-to option for many a spring occasion (afternoon wedding in the garden, Mother’s Day lunch, for example).
RIGHT: It was 80 degrees yesterday and it’s 54 today in my corner of the East Coast. Ulla Johnson’s Elettra soft quilted jacket with unpredictable floral patterns is an artful solution to fickle weather. In addition to the tie at the neck, there’s a hidden zipper that keeps this cute jacket closed in case of cool summer nights. Wear the boxy silhouette with high-waisted pants. It’s $595 at Farfetch.
LEFT: A splash of flowers on a dark blue and eggplant background takes Anthropologie’s v-neck top ($98) out of the sweet zone. It will perk up a casual pair of khakis or jeans.
ABOVE RIGHT: In case you didn’t get enough umbrella choices for rainy spring weather, here’s another from the Rifle Paper Company, which, known for its stationery, whimsical wallpaper and rugs, has expanded into rain gear punctuated by bright blooms and berries. Strawberry Fields, one of six patterns, opens at the push of a button and closes to a compact size. It’s $38.
BELOW RIGHT: The daisy-shaped brooch Georg Jensen designed as a gift to the Danish royal family to mark the birth of the princess Margrethe in 1940, evolved into rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces that became common gifts in Denmark. On May 9, in collaboration with Copenhagen-based fashion designer Stine Goya, the Daisy collection reboots with a contemporary makeover: refined shapes are crafted in sterling silver and hand-painted with enamel in fresh hues of mint, lavender, light lemon sorbet. These earrings are $215. And, by the way, there’s a QR code on the site you can scan to try them on.
LEFT: Small-scale pops of red, pink and purple cheerily bloom on this midi Hillside Skirt with wide hem and smocked elastic waist. Wear with a T-shirt or a slouchy knit top and sneakers. Did we mentioned the skirt is lined? It’s reduced to $206.50 at Shopbop.
RIGHT: My workout clothes consist of tired T-shirts and old black leggings. Could these Sweaty Betty Power full-length daisy-print leggings inspire me to power up my gym sessions, inspire me to focus in my tennis clinics? Couldn’t hurt, right? I do love the brand’s bum-sculpting stretchy fabric and that these leggings have two pockets.
LEFT: Such a pretty Liberty of London print, with blooms kept in check with navy piping. The quilted cotton jacket, filled with PrimaLoft, a down alternative, slips under warmer coats when the weather demands more layers. Take 25% off the $368 price with code SHOPSPRING at J. Crew.
RIGHT: Girlish but not too girly, &Other Stories’s feminine frock (in blue or green, $129) is not your typical-looking shirt dress, thanks to a small collar, shirred sleeves and flirty tiered hem. Throw a black leather jacket over it if it feels too prissy.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
Make a statement with one-of-a-kind jewelry from 2022 Smithsonian Craft Show artisans.
By Janet Kelly
SPRINGTIME. It’s all about rebirth, renewal and rejoicing—as Passover and Easter recently reminded us. Speaking of rejoicing, that’s exactly what the 2022 Smithsonian Craft Show is doing on the occasion of its 40th anniversary. Not to mention that the event, which kicks off this evening with a Preview Night Party, is the first in-real-life show in two years. Welcome back.
Looking ahead to a future, post-pandemic, we’re imagining our own renewal/reinvention as we emerge from a prolonged hibernation. We’re not thinking of anything as extreme as a wholesale makeover but would happily embrace a tweak or three. To that end, our eye is focused on the work of Smithsonian jewelry artists Tiara and Tai Kim, Susan Mahlstedt, Linda Kindler-Priest and Melissa Schmidt, all top-tier craft artisans recognized for their inventive designs, processes and new materials. Strands of pearls and diamond studs have their place, but for distinguishing yourself from the crowd and having some fun at the same time, we’ve found four objets d’art we’d love to shake up our repertoire.
Madeleine Albright understood the value of a jeweled pin when it came to matters of State, so did Lady Gaga with the enormous Schiaparelli dove brooch she wore to the 2021 presidential inauguration. Tiara and Tai Kim‘s one-and-only In the Garden Pin/Pendant, a combination of 18, 22, 24k gold and platinum, fused on oxidized sterling silver, coral and ivory, may have no political connotations, but it will add texture, intrigue and elegance to whatever you’re wearing, whether you use it to cinch the waist of a loose dress or pin one to a grosgrain ribbon for a makeshift choker.
Inspired by the shapes and textures of leaves, sand dollars, shells, bamboo and pebbles, Kansas City, Missouri-based Susan Mahlstedt is driven to solve the technical challenges involved in creating the looks she wants. Mahlstedt uses sterling silver, 18k and 14k gold, which she accents with precious and semi-precious stones to create her signature jewelry that’s not only graceful and artistic but also comfortable to wear. She accomplishes the contrast of white and black on these Bright Sand Dollars—with 18k gold centers and 14k gold wires— by depletion gilded sterling silver (a heating process that makes the silver a white color) and by oxidizing the edges.
A graduate of Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts, Linda Kindler-Priest has taught at the DeCordova Museum and the Massachusetts College of Art, as well as at the Museum of Fine Arts, where her work is in the permanent collection. Kindler-Priest uses the repoussé technique to sculpt realistic images onto metal, which she then mixes with both precious and non-precious stones. For this hinged-cuff bracelet, a wild rose bush on the beach was the inspiration. The single rose on the front is 14k hammered gold. Chased flowers float encircle the cuff, as do little pink sapphires on this wearable sculpture.
“Glass is pure and predictable and yet has endless possibilities,” notes Melissa Schmidt, who works out of her 120-year-old St. Louis studio creating whimsical, original pieces of jewelry like this Paper Crane Necklace, composed of three bubbles of handblown pyrex. Inside the center one is an origami paper crane that looks as if it’s flying; the other two bubbles contain hand-cut paper butterflies and swallows. They’re set on a sterling silver neck wire, which is adjustable from 16 to 19 inches.
The Smithsonian Craft Show opens to the public tomorrow, Thursday, April 21, 2022.
Show hours: 10:30am to 5:30pm, Thursday, April 21, to Saturday, April 23; and Sunday, April 24, 11am to 5pm. You may use your ticket on the day of your choice.
Group tickets (10 or more) are $10 each; student tickets are $10.
Covid Protocol:
Vaccinations are encouraged but proof is not required.
Masks must be worn indoors, regardless of vaccination status, unless actively eating or drinking.
The Smithsonian Craft Show is produced by the Smithsonian Women’s Committee, an all-volunteer organization that supports the education, outreach and research programs of the Smithsonian Institution. The awe-inspiring National Building Museum is located at 401 F Street NW (202-272-2448). The closest Metro stop is Judiciary Square.
Four ways to stay dry and stylish: Loro Piana’s waterproof baseball cap, a camo poncho from Rainkiss, Stutterheim’s Mosebacke, named after a fashionable part of Stockholm, and Rains’ metallic mist long jacket.
By Janet Kelly
SPRINGTIME weather can mean anything from a cold morning to a windy afternoon to a drenching downpour in the evening. You may not be singing in the rain, but you can prepare for whatever bout of weather you find yourself in. Our picks below:
ABOVE LEFT: Rain or shine, here’s a cheery umbrella that covers you in either case. Lightweight (12.3 ounces) and compact, this bumbershoot with an eight-rib windproof frame, is waterproof and has a UPF50+ rating, blocking 98% of the sun’s rays. It’s $69.99 from Amy’s Umbrellas.
BELOW LEFT: Sometimes you want a high boot, sometimes you don’t. It depends on the terrain and the weather. If, for example, you’re messing around with plants, my money is on these Garden Clogs ($95, Terrain). A sole with good traction keeps you above the muck and an inner neoprene lining is water-resistant and ensures warm feet.
RIGHT: Yellow rain jackets, like this one, remind me of the slicker I wore at summer camp and foul-weather gear for blustery days on the Chesapeake. Nothing fancy just utilitarian. Herschel Supply’s rain jacket, made with waterproof stretch fabric, welded seams, snaps and a hefty hood, combines form with function for serious outdoor cred. It’s $99.
LEFT: If you happen to be heir to a media fortune like Kendall Roy in “Succession,” then by all means, snap up Loro Piana’s waterproof baseball cap, lined in linen. In addition to roseberry sorbet, it comes in opaque rose, turquoise, lemon cream, lemon sorbet, red and gray-white. Dig deep into those pockets for $455. On the other hand Loro Piana makes clothing that’s supposed to last. As Per Luigi Loro Piana remarked to Nancy McKeon, managing editor, several years ago, “The design is timeless, not fashion.”
RIGHT: This Boonie Hat ($34) from Rains, a Scandinavian company with a conceptual-meets-functional design approach, is constructed from a coated waterproof fabric. The wide rim with coordinating cord that ties under the chin ensures it stays put and repels the raindrops.
LEFT: Go ahead, make a splash wearing Joules’ waterproof, pull-on Molly Rain Boot. Whether or not you’re navigating through puddles or slush, you’ll get good traction and your feet will stay dry in this 11-inch-high boot with a one-inch heel. Plus, the honey bee print is sweet, not saccharine.
CENTER: The Museum of Modern Art has expanded its umbrella offerings. Remember the Sky style? It’s still available. Even more fun is MoMA’s Color Wheel Umbrella ($55). Generously sized—it has a 45-inch diameter—its 24 panels surround you in every shade of the color spectrum. A sturdy black metal frame and rubber-coated handle keep it practical, too.
RIGHT: Sealed seams, adjustable cuffs, a fishtail hem, a hood and snaps make Rains’s waterproof Long Jacket (hip-length) quintessentially functional. It’s available in eight colors of which we think the metallic mist option is the snazziest. It sells for $125.
LEFT: Into each life, some rain must fall, and sometimes, a lot of it. Stockholm-based Stutterheim takes wet weather seriously — coating its structured cotton jackets in wax so they both block water and keep you warm. Fully lined slash pockets offer space to throw a phone in and not worry about moisture getting in. If you forget your umbrella, the hood stands in. The A-line Mosebacke, available in a slew of different colors and from sizes XXXS to XL, retails for $295.
CENTER: Camo never looked so good as on this fuchsia, lilac, green and deep purple below-the-knee poncho. Made of recycled polyester, it’s waterproof and packable (it folds up into a pouch). Available in an easy- to-wear, one-size fits all, it sells for $99 at Rainkiss.
RIGHT: Repel’s windproof travel umbrella ($26.95), at 11 1/2 inches long and weighing 14 ounces, closes automatically (with the touch of a button) and fits into most handbags. Although compact, it expands into a 37-inch-diameter double-vented, teflon-coated protective canopy. Choose this rainbow-hued model and you’ll have no trouble finding it in the restaurant umbrella stand. (It also comes in pink, pinstripe, slate blue and yellow.) And if you buy it directly from Repel, it’s backed by a lifetime refund or replacement guarantee.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
Go long. From left to right, Puff-Sleeve button down at Anthropologie, Banana Republic poplin shirt, Massimo Dutti animal print flowy blouse.
By Janet Kelly
CROPPED, midriff-baring, cut-out and cold-shoulder tops—some that we’ve seen before—are fashion darlings again this season. One out of every four shirts on Shopbop and one-fifth of Anthropologie’s offerings are flashing some—or a lot—of flesh. On the high-end Moda Operandi site, you can browse more than 300 of these trendy tops. Stores and sites are likely taking their cues from spring 2022 runways, where, for example, Michael Kors showed a pink gingham suit with a mini skirt and bralette, while Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu sent an ultra-low-rise pleated miniskirt paired with a teensy crop top down its runway. These shrunken tops—and skirts—may have signified designers’ hopes about light at the end of the long Covid tunnel. (Speaking of extremes, Prada puzzlingly teamed satin mini skirts with long trains), perhaps in a nod to the costumes on Netflix’s Bridgerton and HBO’s The Gilded Age). Will these styles translate to the street, though?
Following a trend is only worthwhile if it’s flattering and wearable for you, so, while these skin-revealing tops will look adorable on young girls, they’re not for this grown-up girl. (Needless to say, the same goes for mini skirts.)
When it comes to what to wear now, oversize shirts with longish hems to the rescue—to cover belly buttons and camouflage rear ends. Thankfully, there are plenty of options in that category, but if you’re eager to jump into spring clothing, don’t delay because some sizes in some styles are already sold out. Here are 10 on our radar:
LEFT: I never tire of stripes, particularly for spring and summer, so Banana Republic’s oversize poplin shirt ($89.50) is right in my wardrobe wheelhouse. Slits at the sides let breezes flow in when the weather warms and also let high-waisted pants peek out.
LEFT: La Ligne’s founders— two former Vogue editors and Rag & Bone’s former head of biz development—are so fond of stripes, they base their whole collection on them. This Plage Sweater($295), made of 90% cotton and 10% acrylic sweater, is a good companion now with jeans and in the summer over white linen pants.
RIGHT: Make them green with envy when you wear this all-cotton shirt (shown and also available in pink), although you’ll have to wait on that because both colors are currently out of stock. My experience with Mango is that when an item does return to stock, they quickly notify you. Meanwhile, the shirt is reduced from $49.99 to $24.99.
LEFT: Although I’m not a big fan of leopard spots in general—I’m probably in the minority here—I do like Massimo Dutti’s abstract interpretation on this silk-and-cotton animal print top ($119).
RIGHT: Cos calls the color of its grandad collar blouse ($120) khaki, but it looks like army green to me. Although it’s pictured on the website worn in or out, it seems to me that the tunic-style shirt with curved hem and side slits begs to be worn out.
LEFT: With its gathered sleeves and no-collar collar, Anthropologie’s puffsleeve buttondown ($130) looks like a Victorian nightgown except for that deep and sexy v-neck.
RIGHT: While my Southern California pal was already bemoaning all the cropped tops she was seeing last spring, she showed me a Poetry catalogue. I had forgotten about it ’til I happened to see this linen Rib-Stitch Sweater. It reminds me of Eileen Fishersimilar sweaters but with more shape, a more flattering drape —because of its curved hemline—and prettier colors. What do you think? It’s $169.
LEFT: This is the drapey square shirt version—in tencel —($70) of the relaxed silk shirt from Everlane we’ve mentioned here before. The sleeve length is a plus for those of us who don’t like the sight of our elbows, and the hemline offers serious butt coverage. It’s available in slate gray, bone and olive.
RIGHT: I find Frank & Eileen clothing appealing, but like this cotton-fleece, mineral-blue funnel neck topfor $228, they’re on the spendy side. Alternatively, if you like the look and are handy with a pair of scissors, you could trim the neck, sleeves and hem of one of your old sweatshirts, as a friend of mine recently did—with excellent results.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
The sun rises over the Black Hill of South Dakota. / Photo by Kate Benz.
By Kate Benz
MY CHAINSAW is little. Like, really little. A baby chainsaw. The love child of gas-powered monsters that guys twice my size use to slice through the trunk of a 200-year pine as if it were a stick of butter. Those blades are as long as my leg. This blade, the one on my chainsaw, is as long as my forearm. It’s a DeWalt. The DCCS620. Yellow and black and powered by a 5V or 6V battery that we keep on a charger in our laundry room, right next to my ironing board.
Today, I will get some wood to add to our woodpile that we will burn in our wood-burning stove that’s tucked into the mouth of a stone fireplace. My hubs, Bryan, and I are living in the mountainous boonies of South Dakota. Seven miles of dirt and gravel away from the nearest two lanes of asphalt, a road less traveled until the tourists descend in the summertime. They will drive slow enough to admire every pine in the National Forest that surrounds us, unleash their screaming brood in the driveway of their vacation rentals, and further shatter the tranquility of God’s creation with their ATV’s, UTV’s and RV’s, leaving a trail of empty beer cans and Little Debbie wrappers wherever they go.
My objective today involves my chainsaw and wood. A lot of it. As much as I can stuff into the back of the Jeep. The more wood we can burn, the lower the bill for our electric heat and that means more money to save for an early retirement.
There is a language associated with cutting wood that goes something like this:
Statement: “Saw a good pile of sticks on that slash pile. Nothing looked punky. I’ll go chunk ‘em, throw ‘em in the bed, and then put ‘em through the splitter so we can stack ‘em. I hope I have enough juice to get a full load before some (blankety blank blank) steals them.”
Translation: “I found a good pile of timber that the forest rangers must have cut and stacked last year, because the wood looks seasoned and not rotten and will therefore burn well. I’m going to take the chainsaw and cut each piece of timber into smaller pieces to make them more manageable, load them into the bed of the truck, and then run them through the log splitter so that they can continue to dry after being neatly stacked. I hope my batteries last long enough for me to get a full truck load’s worth, because it’s good wood and someone else will surely take it.”
Slash piles are massive piles of discarded timber. In the Black Hills, it’s yours for the taking after you buy a ticket book from the Forest Department that allows you to take so many cords. Each ticket represents one cord of wood, and each cord costs five bucks. It’s done on the honor system; if you pay twenty bucks for four tickets, the USDA trusts that you are going to take five cords of wood, not 500.
Slash piles that aren’t picked over by ticket holders are eventually ignited during a controlled burn in the winter. There’s nothing more demoralizing than your beloved slash pile being turned into a pile of ashes, so you can’t dilly dally around when it comes to picking.
Finding a good slash pile is like discovering gold, and most are not wont to disclose many details, even to close friends and neighbors.
“That’s some good lookin’ wood. You found a nice slash pile, ya?”
“Yep.”
“In the forest.”
The Black Hills National Forest.
The slash pile I’m heading to today is close to our cabin. There are a few, moderately sized sticks that look nice and seasoned. If I don’t get it today, someone else will. Which would be upsetting. This is my slash pile. The sticks are my size. My hubs, who is about 6’2”, can heave a log that’s seven feet long and 18 inches in diameter into the bed of his truck, almost without having an asthma attack.
He’s usually the one toting the chainsaw, but he’s at work. Bryan is an engineer for the railroad. Well, he was. Until they promoted him to management. It seemed like a good idea. Big promotion, bigger pay; upward mobility. “Better security for us,” he said. Then came the sixteen- and seventeen-hour days, being called in on days off, the crushing stress. He smiled a lot when he operated the train, delivering fifty-six carloads of bentonite, grain, soybeans, and sunflowers through miles of undisturbed prairie land. Now he has ulcers.
Over the past year and a half, he did the cutting, and I did the stacking. The idea of accidentally slicing off a hand or foot unsettled me. But I love it out here in Nowheresville. The solitude. The quiet. Far away from The People. My days of being immersed in concrete jungles, traffic jams, and civilization are over. Our cabin in the woods is my baby step. The more I learn how to do on my own, the deeper into nowhere we can go.
I maneuver the Jeep along a narrow, bumpy, scraggly-looking path that leads to my slash pile. My window is down. The air is mild. No snow on a winter day in the mountains. I hop out the door. Put on some safety glasses. Grab my chainsaw and insert a 6V. There is no sound, but the wind gliding over the mountainside and a few chirping juncos. I have nothing else to do today but cut wood. Cut, stack, cut, stack. The labor is hard but cathartic. Satisfying. My manicured nails are shoved into a pair of goatskin work gloves, chainsaw buzzing. The sweet scent of cut pine fills the air. The sun shines brilliantly in a sky that’s blue and wide. And I am closer to heaven than I’ve ever been.
Kate Benz’s second non-fiction book, Nothing but the Dirt: Stories from an American Farm Town, will be released in the fall of 2022 (University of Kansas Press). When she’s not writing, you can find her talking to her dog, getting lost in a Kansas cornfield, or taking long, romantic walks down the makeup aisle. She lives in the Black Hills of South Dakota with her husband.
Fashion From Ukraine on Etsy sells embroidered linen boho blouses and dresses. This handmade, lightweight blouse (left) with a traditional Ukrainian floral pattern and tassels is $290. A similar blouse (right) with red embroidery and raglan sleeves is $280. Stock is very limited, according to the site.
By Janet Kelly
WATCHING Putin’s War play out on TV leaves me angry, frustrated and feeling helpless. So, when my Ukrainian-born friend Yuliya suggested posting a story about fashion designers in her country, I was all in. (Instead of presents for her birthday a few weeks ago, Yuliya requested her friends send money to Ukraine.)
In light of a cruel and devastating war, the thought of buying clothes may seem, er, the slightest bit frivolous, no? But in fact, another way to help during this crisis is supporting designers whose livelihood and that of their employees depends on their businesses staying solvent.
From well- to lesser known names and talents, we’re looking at 10 Ukrainian fashion designers to keep on our radar. According to an article, “Last Month They Made Designer Dresses. Now They’re Making Combat Boots” in last week’s Financial Times, two brands—Sleeper and Anna October—have set up production facilities in Turkey and Estonia, respectively. Svitlana Bevza is in search of factories in the EU to restart her production. In the meantime, many companies are donating a portion of their income to relief organizations, such as the Children’s Emergency Fund and the Red Cross.
The clothing runs the gamut from embroidered, billowy bohemian blouses (above) to modern minimalist jumpsuits, black-tie pajamas, fetching fedoras, laser-cut dresses and slinky, colorful knits.
Innovative, environmentally conscious and a resilient spirit characterize these Ukrainian designers. Names to know and support:
From Tamara Davydova’s Minimalist line, produced in NYC’s garment center, a Japanese denim jumpsuit (left) with a zipper and drawstring waist is a one-and-done kind of piece I’d be happy to wear on repeat. Ditto her fluid silk halter dress (right), made of a viscose satin, although I might want to close that slit a teensy-weensy. A turquoise knit sailor top and skirt (center) is made from 100% recycled plastic bottles, collected from the ocean bottom. The outfit was on Bevza’s spring 2022 runway.
Founded in 2014 by Kate Zubarieva and Asya Varetsa, Sleeper’s nightwear-turned-partywear is made locally in Kyiv. Cut from lightweight crêpe de chine, this vintage-inspired pajama set (left) is detailed with the brand’s signature ostrich feathers, which can be detached when you want to keep things simple. It’s $320 from Shopbop. Pretty-in-pink Lulu Slippers(right, $290) are like warm ballet flats with a shearling top, cashmere pompoms and leather soles. They’re too cute not to be seen outside.
The design duo behind KseniaSchnaider led the way for sustainable upcycling in Eastern Europe. To aid the families of its 30-person team, the brand has issued “support cards.” The line is best known for its denim pieces, including this $650 patchwork blazer (left). Former LVMH Prize finalist Anna October, whose eponymous womenswear label is sold at Farfetch, Ssense and Moda Operandi, donated 1,000-plus yards of fabric to the army for blankets and camouflage nets. Combine her intricately knit pale-yellow cardigan (right) with light satin dresses or skirts to think spring, no matter the weather. Her website advises that all deliveries will take up to three weeks, due to martial law in Ukraine.
Designer Julie Paskal used her architectural training to launch her fashion line with its sculptural silhouettes and laser-cut techniques to construct delicate dresses, such as this Heart Appliqué Dress (left) at Neiman Marcus. On her Facebook page, Paskal urges support for Ukrainian designers “to contribute to the economy.” Uliana Vasylenko, a seller on Etsy, says the airports in Ukraine have restricted operations, but you can still try your luck at buying this glass beaded necklace ($47) in the colors of the country.
Belarus-born Anastasiya Rozova, co-owner of Chereshnivska, uses unique cuts and colors 0n recycled materials to remake wardrobe basics. An oversize, exuberant-print shirt(left) is $160.47 from Not Just a Label. The site notes that orders will be fulfilled from limited stock and that all proceeds will be used to supply food and essentials to their employees in Lviv, Ukraine. References to the sea as in this sailboat necklace (above, right, $71.21) were sprinkled through Bevza’s spring/summer 2022 collection, highlighting her commitment to sustainability. Ruslan Baginskiy, whose design inspiration comes from Ukrainian national costumes, old family photos and vintage fashion shoots, tweaks traditional shapes into modern looks. This pearl-embellished fedora (below, right) is available at Farfetch for $340.
Inspired by the shapes and textures of leaves, sand dollars, shells, bamboo and pebbles, Kansas City, Missouri-based Susan Mahlstedt is driven to solve the technical challenges involved in creating the looks she wants. Mahlstedt uses sterling silver, 18k and 14k gold, which she accents with precious and semi-precious stones to create her signature jewelry that’s not only graceful and artistic but also comfortable to wear. 
