Fashion & Beauty

A Sea of Blue

By Janet Kelly

SPRING and summer collections from the likes of designers Stella McCartney and Dries Van Noten—who’s sadly retiring—showcased shades of robin’s egg blue.

The way to wear them is to mix and match different hues, stick to a monochromatic look or choose one item—shoes, a polo shirt, a jacket—to update your early spring wardrobe. The whiplash temps of April are prime time for jeans, which will mate swimmingly with pale blues. (Speaking of denim, see Dries’s stonewashed jacket and long shorts below.) If you’re not inclined to go full bore into blue, pick an accessory—a watch or even nail polish.

As always, we’ve got some suggestions for you—including a faux suede jacket from Zara, a sleek Skagen Denmark watch and a sporty-girl cardigan from Tuckernuck.

Left, an oversize jacket and matching pants from Stella McCartney’s spring 2024 collection. Right, a washed denim double-breasted blazer and matching shorts on Dries Van Noten’s spring 2024 runway.

 

This season contrasting colors and textured fabrics give the classic polo new life. A pop of red on the embroidered logo and on the collar and half-button placket energize Tory Sport’s pointelle cotton polo, which sells for $328 at Luisaviaroma.

 

For that summer wedding on your calendar, pair Staud’s Rochelle periwinkle top with the matching Sasha pants, made from a lustrous silk fabric, and you’ve got a chic outfit that will work for many of your other occasions. The top sells for $395, the pants for $595.

 

Instead of the same-old, same-old shades of brown, spring for a faux suede blue jacket. You’ll get a lotta bang for not a lotta bucks—$47.90—from Zara.

 

Matching tops and bottoms, including suits, are having a well-deserved moment (see Staud top and pants above). Banana Republic’s billowing, ankle-length Ariella skirt ($130) in cotton poplin has an extra-wide hem to enhance its fullness. Wear with its companion, a fitted and cropped Racer poplin top, which sells for $80.

 

Cut from denim in a light blue wash, Dries Van Noten’s double-breasted blazer made a splash in the designer’s spring 2024 collection. Tailored with pointy lapels and padded shoulders, the jacket and matching long shorts (as shown on the runway) has the feel of a traditional suit. The jacket sells for $2,250; the shorts $655, both at Net a Porter.

 

French label Maje’s cropped, knit cardigan in the color of the season, has a napped, textile texture that’s accented with silver-tone buttons and scattered sequins, lending it a subtle sparkle. It sells for $311.25, reduced from $415.

 

Also from Maje, a refresh of a classic polo in a chevron knit with openwork detail. Silver-tone buttons and a scallop finish at the hem and sleeves are the finishing touches. It sells for $265 at Bloomingdale’s.

 

In warm, but not hot, weather, I’m a jeans-and-sneakers kind of grownup girl. I like polos as tops but I also prize button-downs for a casual-yet-put-together look. I wear my comfy, boxy striped shirt from Everlane on repeat, so I’m considering another—like this cotton Boxy Oxford—with dropped shoulders and big patch pockets, which sells for $88.

 

Tennis anyone? Part of any sport, according to my husband, the author, is looking good. So, no matter what your skill level is, don this cable-knit Charley cardigan from Tuckernuck Sport over your top and skirt, and you’ve got game.

 

Santoni is an old-school Italian shoe company, which, while preserving its handmade traditions, has introduced new designs and methods. Case in point: these almond-toe sleek loafers with a classic penny strap design in an unexpected metallic blue pebble leather. They sell for $750 at Neiman Marcus.

 

An international brand, Skagen Denmark’s got a sweet spot for Scandinavian minimalism and even takes its name from Denmark’s northernmost town. The Aaren Kulor watch face and case in sky blue matches up with the same color blue silicone strap. A sleek piece of functional jewelry for your wrist, it sells for $145 at Macy’s.

 

When it comes to nail polish, I rarely go outside my comfort zone of red and pink shades. But I’m tempted to give Essie’s cornflower blue color a try. Blue goes with everything, right? It sells for $10 at Ulta. (There’s always nail polish remover.)

 

 

MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an  Amazon Associate.

Luxe for Less

By Janet Kelly

ALL THE cool girls in middle school had Papagallo loafers. And I so yearned to have a pair. Despite my begging, though, my mother refused to understand why we should pay more money for brand-name shoes when we could buy similar ones (to her eye, not to mine) for way less.

I’ve come around to my mom’s way of thinking but not because I don’t covet that gorgeous Prada skirt, Dries Van Noten jacket, Marni dress or Row handbag. Even a decade ago, I could afford high-end designer names (particularly when they were on sale), but today prices for many of these labels have gone up so astronomically, they’ve become beyond the reach of mere mortals.

Given the current state of prices for designer clothing and accessories, I went browsing for worthy substitutes for a Prada skirt from last fall, a small shoulder bag from The Row, Roger Vivier ballet flats for this spring and more.

Here’s what I found:

 

LEFT: A runway look from Prada’s fall 2023 collection, the duchesse satin midi skirt has a tulle overlay that’s hand embroidered with large rosettes. It sells for a breathtaking $11,500 at Saks Fifth Avenue. (The wool-and-cashmere sweater, which tones down the dressiness of the skirt, sells for $1,850, also at Saks.)

CENTER: Love the Prada look, but not the price? Ted Baker’s Louelaa pleated midi skirt in a rose-textured lace fabric (polyester) has a similar delicate vibe but sells for $237, reduced from $475. The matching blouse (customer service says it’s currently out of stock) is kind of prissy when paired with the skirt—perhaps a better choice to wear for a fancy summer garden party or if you’re a bride.

RIGHT: For a more sophisticated but relaxed coupling (à la Prada), pair Cos’s cotton circle-cut midi skirt ($220) accented with floral embellishments that wrap around the hem with its matching short-sleeve shirt ($170, in limited sizes).

 

LEFT:The Balla is Dear Frances’s take on the ballerina flat. Scattered with crystals, the glove-like shoe, made of mesh and finished with leather trim, will bring a subtle party vibe to your look. They sell for $495 at Nordstrom.

ABOVE RIGHT: For something similar, Zara’s shiny mesh ballet flats would fill the bill. Moreover, if they get scuffed or you lose a rhinestone or three, you’ll feel better that you spent $69 instead of almost $500 for shoes with limited versatility.

CENTER RIGHT: A thing of beauty in springy pink and white, these buttery leather pointed-toe flats with patent leather piping and lacquered buckle by Roger Vivier will elongate and slim your foot. A rubber sole promises a cushy feel. These sell for $825 at Nordstrom.

LOWER RIGHT: More striking than the Roger Vivier, Bells & Becks polished leather flats with a slender square toe combine eye-catching fuchsia, a sleek design—including an oversize buckle—and comfort —with a padded leather insole. Also available in white and blue patent leather, they sell for several hundred dollars less than the Vivier—$375.

 

LEFT: The full sleeves on Tibi’s Deluxe Tube Yarn Pullover trim down the torso and call attention to the smallest part of the body. Made from a cotton-nylon blend of recycled chunky yarn, the loose-knit sweater hits slightly above the waistline, the proportion we’ve been admiring. The puffy top is $695.

RIGHT: Anthropologie’s Textured Top also has those stylish puff sleeves, is made of a cotton and polyester blend and has the cropped proportion of the Tibi sweater. The construction of the Tibi knit looks finer than Anthropologie’s, but the latter is one-tenth of the price at $68.

 

LEFT: Cos Stores’s leather, cotton-lined, half-moon shaped swing bag (12.36″w x 4.33″h x  3.93″d) looks hip slung across the body with its wide adjustable strap. Available in brown, black and beige, in addition to this season’s new cream color, it sells for $150.

CENTER: The Row’s half-moon leather bag (8″w x 7″h x 2.5″d) in the season’s must-have burgundy sums up the brand’s minimalist and coveted aesthetic. With its flat shoulder strap and curved shape, it sits seamlessly beneath the shoulder. It sells for $1,390 at FWRD.

RIGHT: It’s not for every occasion, but it’s hard to beat the functionality—and $19.90 price—of Uniqlo’s Round Mini Shoulder Bag ( 11”w x 6.7″h x 3.9”d) for every day. Like the Row bag, it’s shaped to fit the body, is made from dirt-resistant nylon and is sized to fit your smartphone and wallet.

 

P.S. My mom finally did give me the money to buy a pair of Papagallos. Maybe it was the universe trying to tell me something, but I left my brand-new shoes in a train station, never to be recovered.

 

 

MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an  Amazon Associate.

Come Up Short

By Janet Kelly

JACKETS, sweaters and shirts have been getting short treatment—and we approve. Several months ago, Nancy McKeon and I chatted about how grownup girls could wear the current cropped look without cropping too much (showing a bare midriff), and we offered some suggestions. Now that spring is around the corner—at least we think so—it’s time for an update.

On our radar, a bunch of seasonal jackets, sweaters and shirts that stylishly graze the waist.

Be the polished lady in red in a cotton-tweed structured jacket from Mango, finished with front patch pockets and frayed center placket. Hitting just above the waistline, the higher hem of the top elongates the leg. It sells for $139.99.

 

Made of a stretch cotton (98% cotton, 2% spandex), what makes vintage-inspired Free People’s army-green Cassidy jacket unique is the exaggerated pleating at the hem, which adds width and works well for layering a shirt or sweater underneath. It sells for $168 at Saks Fifth Avenue.

Instead of the more typical moto look, Alice + Olivia reimagines the New Harvey Leather Jacket without zippers and such, instead creating a minimalist version with an open, draped front that looks terrific with a T-shirt peeking out below. A wear-right-now jacket, it sells for $895.

When the weather warms for real, update your denim jacket with this cropped, boxy style with a curved back hem, oversize front pockets and 3/4-length sleeves. It sells for $348 at Free People.

Gold buttons on a navy background is such a traditional look. But ba&sh tweaks it on this jacket (made of recycled cotton) with multiple pockets that hits a little high above the waist. Wear it over straight-leg pants with your shirttails hanging out from the hem, avoiding the possibility of any belly-button exposure. It sells for $465.

 

What could be more useful than a trench coat in our wacky weather? Hoping to jump on the  trend, designers have shortened styles so that instead of falling below the knee or longer they hit at the waist (or slightly below), such as this cropped jacket ($199) with a storm flap at the back from & Other Stories. If sold out, other options include this one ($229) from Massimo Dutti and this from Vineyard Vines for $298.

 

Mango is selling a slew of good-looking wool, leather and suede bomber jackets that finish at the waist, including this wool-blend, preppy version with button snaps. Short jackets balance wide pants, which is what I’d wear with this cute bomber. Also, it’s on sale—reduced from $139.99 to $49.99.

 

This openwork knit sweater with a fun, striped pattern finishes just above the waistline. Slim slacks on the bottom will temper the width and volume of the sweater’s batwing sleeves. It sells for $325 at ba&sh.

From designer Trish Wescoat Pound (TWP), the Next Ex short-sleeved button down, made from Italian cotton, has a cropped, boxy silhouette, complete with chest patch pocket, spread collar and the label’s signature double-roll button cuffs. Available in jungle green (shown above) as well as white, midnight, baby blue and lavender, it sells for a spendy $335.

A little chilly out? Wear the Next Ex shirt under TWP’s Tallulah boxy ribbed polo in five-gauge cashmere. It sells for $725 at Neiman Marcus.

Narrow at the shoulders, wide at the hem, Eileen Fisher got the message, updating her classic collar shirt in a shorter silhouette. A wardrobe essential, this cotton poplin button-up shirt sells for $148 at Neiman Marcus. The shirt lights up the room in citron, but it also comes in white.

 

 

MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an  Amazon Associate.

Standout Sleeves

RunwaySleeve1web RunwaySleeve2web RunwaySleeve3web RunwaySleeve4web
<
>
Left: Connecting the sleeves with the torso, Sacai's Abe Chitose sculpts a denim jacket into a circular shape on the designer's spring 2024 runway. / Courtesy of Sacai. Right: On Gabriela Hearst's 2024 spring runway, a dress that's half wool, half leather with one flare and one puff sleeve. / Courtesy of Gabriela Hearst.

By Janet Kelly

EMMA STONE won an Oscar nod for best actress for her performance as Bella Baxter, a young woman brought back to life by an unorthodox scientist, in the film“Poor Things.” If she wins, those 15-inch-wide sleeves she wears should get at least an honorary mention for helping her through her journey of self-exploration.

Whether flouncy or fringed, puffed, leg-o-mutton, oversized, ruffled, even wing-like, sleeves have been making fashion statements—for years, even centuries. On spring 2024 runways they were sculptural like Sacai’s denim jacket, overly long (Rotate’s pink cardigan) or deliberately mismatched—as Gabriela Hearst’s asymmetric dress with a crêpe flute on one sleeve and leather puff on the other. Actress Carey Mulligan appeared on the November 2023 cover of Vogue in a Louis Vuitton 2024 resort collection gown with giant cream puff-like sleeves. In 2020, designers pushed up sleeves to create rounded shapes with broad shoulders (flashing back to the ’80s and the billowy sleeves of Princess Diana’s wedding gown and the exaggerated shoulders and big sleeves of “Dynasty’s” Alexis Carrington). Going back more than 100 years to the 1890s, leg-of-mutton sleeves doubled the width of the space occupied by the wearer in an era when there were growing demands for women’s emancipation.

Now at a time when women’s rights are increasingly threatened comes the blockbuster show “Statement Sleeves” (through Aug. 24, 2024) at New York City’s Fashion Institute of Technology. Featuring almost 80 pieces of its permanent collection from certain periods in history (1770s, 1830s, 1930s, for example), the exhibition demonstrates how sleeves can be empowering.

Exaggerated sleeves draw attention upward to the face of the person wearing them, and there’s a style for everyone in a range of prices. Moreover, they assert importance, attract attention and signal confidence. All good reasons why they keep coming back in style.

Here are some of our big-sleeve favorites from the current retail offerings:

From the ruffled high neck with oversize bow to the long puffed sleeves, elastic trims on the cuffs and waistband of Patou’s slightly cropped crêpe blouse expand its presence. The playfully proportioned lipstick red blouse is reduced from $760 to $532 at Mytheresa.

 

Without these detachable puff-sleeve cuffs, this ribbed knit pullover ($590, Neiman Marcus) would read very plain Jane. With them, it’s a different decorative story. They can also serve practical purposes: Contemporary designer Lucy Jones, featured in the FIT exhibit, created specially shaped and detachable sleeves intended for wheelchair users.

 

I think of CO as a less expensive version of The Row, selling similar “stealth wealth” classic looks. The label’s cotton jersey T-shirt gets a festive vibe thanks to a flurry of whimsical taffeta ruffles that make a statement out of sleeves. The tee sells for $595.

 

You don’t have to announce yourself. This cotton-blend puff-sleeve top, with a texture that reminds me a bit of bubble wrap, will ensure everyone notices. Also available in green, as well as black, it sells for $68 at Anthropologie. (Tibi is selling a similar sweater for $695.)

 

This lively print ruffle-sleeve blouse in all cotton with pink and ivory flowers on a hunter-green background is spring-ready even if the temp drops. The traditional button-down style gets a boost from three-quarter sleeves gathered with pin tucks and a curved hem. It sells for $128 at Tuckernuck.

With its wide and substantial puff sleeves, this Sady Top with elastic cuffs—o keep the sleeves in place—would have surely won Bella Baxter’s approval. Made of 97% cotton with a little stretch added, it sells for $298 at Shopbop. It’s also available in black from Alexis.

 

Make an entrance in Rotate’s begonia-pink brushed knit cardigan ($430, Farfetch) with a rosette appliqué and cropped hem. Long puffy sleeves and shoulder pads enlarge your presence.

 

It’s hard to tell from the photo, but with her splicing technique, Sacai Creative director Chitose Abe transforms a military flight jacket into a bomber with a blouson silhouette and curvaceous sleeves. It sells for $1,405 at Nordstrom.

Art-inspired blooms flower on this charmingly feminine Natura blouse, made from an airy linen-and-silk blend. Even the buttons are shaped to look like daisies. You can pair with its matching maxi or balance the blouse volume with slim white trousers. It sells for $750 at Net a Porter.

Stacy Bendet takes a page out of the Victorian playbook for this confection of a lace top with a cropped silhouette and fluttery long sleeves. For your next party. It sells for $465 at Alice + Olivia.

Voluminous raglan sleeves with buttoned cuffs—for modern-day buccaneers—and a large rosette appliqué at the shoulder distinguish this lavender blouse from & Other Stories. It’s out of stock currently, but this pink floral embroidered shirt with long raglan puff sleeves and fitted buttoned cuffs has some limited availability.

The Way I Wore It

Vive la difference!/ Photo by Janet Kelly.


By Janet Kelly

SO FAR I have only received one response reacting to my post yesterday asking how you were wearing something in a way that wasn’t specifically intended—like wearing a sweater as a scarf.

So, I’ve decided to encourage you with my own, if not exactly groundbreaking, example–changing the look of a pair of black kitten heels.

Instead of investing in new chi-chi shoes for a black-tie wedding—I don’t have a lot of  upcoming fancy fetes on my calendar these days—I bought a plain Jane pair at DSW and attached sparkly clip-on bows that I bought from Etsy. (The photo above shows the difference between how the shoe looks with and without the embellishment.)

Again, dear readers, a nudge. We’d be thrilled to receive your photos. Send them to us at janet@mylittlebird.com.

 

 

 

Wear It Your Way

SweatScarf2web SweatScarf1web SweeatScarf5web SweatScarf4web SweatScarf3web
<
>
Is it a scarf or a blouse? An enormous knit covers most of the model's torso on the runway of London label 16Arlington. / Photo 16Arlington.

 

By Janet Kelly

A SWEATER wrapped around another like a scarf is trending on fall 2024 runways. Michael Kors, for one, tossed one chunky knit over another, turning the top one so it’s slightly askew. Look, Mom, no coat!

Proenza Schouler models looked as if they had not quite finished dressing, as one arm hung out of a funnel-neck sweater that was turned on its side. At London brand 16Arlington, fuzzy knit sweaters doubled as scarves and tops, with some models wearing nothing else but an enormous sweater covering their torso. Another wore a sheer purple turtleneck under a white mohair dress with a celadon sweater tied over her shoulders and a shaggy faux fur collar at her neck. And, at Fendi, a twisted turtleneck sweater was layered over a sculpted coat.

You don’t have to be a fashion designer to wear a wear a sweater as a scarf or backwards or on a diagonal. Years ago I was full of admiration when the gorgeous orange cashmere scarf my Milanese friend was wearing turned out to be a sweater. In the most recent episode of “Capote Vs. The Swans,” instead of putting a scarf around her neck, Babe Paley changes her mind and ties it to her handbag.

Have you worn something lately not as it was intended—say, a scarf as a blouse or as a belt or wristlet? Earrings like barrettes in your hair, as sparkly clips on your shoes or in place of a missing button? Or is there a way you’re wearing any piece of clothing or accessory in an unexpected way? Do tell us what it is and how you’re wearing it, and if you’ve got a photo or are willing to take one (pretty please!), send it to us (janet@mylittlebird.com), and we’ll share it in a future post.

 

Is Fashion Waking Up to Older Women?

By Janet Kelly

“FINALLY, FASHION Ages Upwas the print headline from the Wall Street Journal story published this past weekend, accompanied by another article titled “Why Older Women Ruled New York Fashion Week.”

Whoa. Is the fashion industry finally . . . or have we seen this movie before? For about a nanosecond, older women, featured in ads, make the industry feel like they’ve paid homage to a certain segment of the population, and then just like that, those ads/articles are gone. Remember Blackglama’s campaign, “What Becomes a Legend Most?” Along with young beauties, those ads featured Joan Crawford, Bette Davis, Marlene Dietrich, and more women of a certain age. In 2016, 68-year-old Maye Musk starred in James Perse’s fall 2016 campaign. She also became the oldest CoverGirl at 69 in 2017. More recently, ads are popping up of 79-year-old Diana Ross as the new face of Saint Laurent and of 89-year-old Dame Maggie Smith modeling Loewe’s popular Puzzle Bag.

Coincidentally or not, a new eight-episode FX/Hulu series, “Feud: Capote Vs. the Swans” zeroes in on the lives of a circle of glamorous, impeccably dressed women. Among the cast are actors Naomi Watts, who’s 55, and Diane Lane, who’s 59. They portray the socialites and fashion icons Babe Paley and Slim Keith, whose secrets their supposedly trusted friend and author Truman Capote betrays in a chapter from his unfinished novel, Answered Prayers, excerpted in Esquire’s November 1975 issue.

Set in the 1960s and 1970s when Paley and Keith were in their 50s and 60s, the show is a love letter to grown-up clothes. Last week, New York’s  fall 2024 fashion runways weighed in with the kind of tailored, investment-worthy offerings the Swans would have approved. Instead of The Row’s usual capacious clothes, the Olsen designers changed direction with slim, waist-defining dresses and contoured jackets, while Michael Kors eschewed flash for classic looks—with skirt suits and pleated trousers.

So, is fashion is waking up to older women? As the late actor Philip Seymour Hoffman, quoting a Zen master, said in the 2007 film, Charlie Wilson’s War, “We’ll see.” In any case, below some suggestions for what would appeal to today’s grownup girls.

 

In show-stopping red and flattering side ruching, The Row’s wool-blend (91% wool, 8% elastane, 1% polyamide) Lucienne dress is no run-of-the-mill sheath. Details, such as pleated cuffs and an asymmetric midi hem, add interest as well, and a 100% silk lining is pure luxury. Reduced from $2,740, it sells for $1,375 at Net a Porter.

A black turtleneck is a wardrobe workhorse. This one, in a lightweight wool jersey with a touch of stretch, will pair with everything from white flannel trousers to tweed pants to charcoal gray midi skirts. A luxe look for less, it sells for $70 at Banana Republic.

Babe Paley favored creamy neutrals, and it’s easy to picture her elegantly swanning around in these wide-leg pleated pants. Crafted from double-faced merino wool, they sell for $790 at Another Tomorrow.

Along with their Verdura cuffs and Schlumberger earrings, the Swans loved their pearls. CZ Guest was rarely seen without a strand or two. This Tiffany necklace, which comes in pearl sizes from 5-6mm to 8-9mm, ranges in price from $850 to $1,600. Note: Coco Chanel often accessorized her simple jersey dresses with real pearls and multiple faux strands.

 

When Babe Paley attached her scarf (Hermès) to her handbag, the rest of New York followed. Paley didn’t have a Twilly—Hermès didn’t come out with the design until 2003—but this 32-inch-by-2-inch Epaulettes De Gala Twilly ($200) is a handy-dandy colorful accessory for bringing a bit of whimsy to your neck, wrist, or purse.

 

Nili Lotan’s handsome Horace cropped jacket, inspired by vintage military looks, is made of 100% Italian wool, has epaulets with horn buttons, and is fully lined. The kind of piece that will have longevity in your closet, it sells for $1,330.

 

One chic young woman was photographed on the street at New York Fashion Week wearing Nili Lotan’s jacket, which she unexpectedly paired with the silk-organza fabric of Bite Studio’s Ruffled Skirt ($990, Moda Operandi) and then accented with a red clutch. It’s a sophisticated combo that could be replicated by a stylish woman with an AARP card.

 

Slim Keith et al. look so glamorous in their gorgeous printed silk shirts I immediately wished I had one as stunning. This blouse, with a graphic mix of pink and black from Elie Tahari, would fill that hole in my closet. It sells for $325.

 

 

One of the appealing aspects of Pandora’s Chain Bracelet is it’s available in five different wrist sizes (from 5.9 to 9 inches long). Also, you can customize the chain, swapping out smaller links for larger, openable links, for example. Then, for more individual expression and dollars, you can add large medallion charms or mini dangle charms. The 14k-gold-plated bracelet sells for $200.

 

So minimalist, so tailored, so Jil Sander. The go-to grownup girl’s designer launched her first collection in 1973, becoming known for clothing that was expertly tailored and made in luxurious fabrics. Though no longer headed up by Sander, the company is still recognized for its way-high quality and attention to detail. This all-cashmere cardigan in the label’s Resort ’24 collection sells for a whopping $2,520.

 

 

First introduced in 1965 and one of the brand’s most favored styles, Roger Vivier’s Belle Vivier Covered Buckle Pump would have appealed to Capote’s Swans. Available today in spring combos of white and yellow (above), as well as white and violet and white and blue, it sells for $995.

 

Bygone chic or the must-have coat for fall? Fifty-year-old model Amber Valetta wears a leopard-printed coat with black leather accessories on Michael Kors’s fall 2024 runway.

 

 

 

MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an  Amazon Associate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Flare for Spring

Flaring out is in. From left to right, Banana Republic’s cotton poplin full skirt, Massimo Dutti’s box-pleat midi and Cos’s polo dress.

By Janet Kelly

WHEN MY extremely talented partner-in-crime, LittleBird Nancy, aka Nancy McKeon—previously the top editor (not all at once) of almost every feature section of The Washington Post—asks me a question, I pay attention. A week or so ago she mentioned that a catalogue she gets was filled with long skirts with “swoop” and wanted to know whether I thought our readers could or would or should wear them.

So, Nancy, I searched the current offerings of some of my favorite online retailers and came up with an answer: Short of any sweeping hems, I did discover at least a dozen or more midis and maxis with flared silhouettes—similar to the A-lines of old—that give the illusion of motion, are airy and roomy around the lower body and would flatter a variety of figures.

And these midis and maxis with flare are not only for tall women. Your neighborhood tailor can make the skirt a bit shorter so you’re wearing the dress/skirt, not the other way around. It is just a matter of proportion—and that can be adjusted.

Now, it’s up to readers to decide among a flounced denim midi from Massimo Dutti, a swingy skirt from Ayr, a maxi flowy print from UK brand Me + Em, a sporty shirt dress from Cos and more.

A note: Punxsutawney Phil declared an early spring, so even though I’m not entirely confident in the little groundhog’s predictions, I’ve included spring picks, such as Zara’s white box-pleat skirt, along with transitional pieces like an Athleta shirt dress you can wear right now. 

 

Me + Em’s silk-blend Confetti Print Maxi Dress ($745) has much to recommend it: elastic ruffle trims on the cuffs to keep pushed-up sleeves in place, a hook-and-eye neckline for an open or closed look on the top half and a flowing skirt that skims over the hips. For a colorful pick-me-up, wear it now with boots and a coat; style it later with flats and a military jacket.

A nylon and spandex blend, Athleta’s midi Cosmic Layer Dress ($189) is designed with a flared hemline for breathability and motion. It’s the very model of what the fashion industry refers to as “transitional.” Wear for work and travel, pairing with matching tights and ankle boots in cold weather and with sneakers come spring.

Another option for the transitional season, Cos’s polo shirt dress ($135) is made from cotton jersey. The wide, elbow-length sleeves balance the dress’s lower half that attractively flares at the hem. Available in dark brown, it sells for $135.

It’s your only life. Have fun with this ultra-feminine tulle midi skirt with velvet polka dots and a floaty hemline. If you’ve gained a pound or three over December and January, an elastic waist will forgive you. Dress tulle down with a white button-up and boots or go for a party look with a pair of Mary Janes. The Lou Lou Tulle Skirt sells for $305 at Wyse London.

A mixture of silk and “cotton-crinkle” creates an ethereal texture for Ayr’s appropriately named Something Special dress. Tiered smocking on the top whittles the torso while a flared hem adds volume and balance on the bottom. It’s fully lined in the body so no worries about see-through where you don’t want it. As well suited for special events on your calendar—with fancy flats or kitten heels—as for more casual occasions with chunky boots and a nubby sweater. It sells for $375.

A versatile choice for office or off-duty, Me + Em’s Boat Neck Midi Dress ($425) is made from durable ponte jersey (a double-knit fabric created from a mixture of spandex, rayon and polyester fibers), which retains its fit-and-flare shape.

Fashion’s prognosticators predict a lot of blue for spring. So, that’s a checked box for Tuckernuck’s Brynn Skirt ($228) in a light blue denim wash. But in addition to the color, we like the decorative trapunto stitching at the hem and the flared panels that give the illusion of movement even when standing still. We give it a twirls-up!

Also pretty in blue is Banana Republic’s Ariella Midi Skirt in cotton poplin, which is fully lined. To enhance its billowy look, the ankle-length skirt features an extra-wide hem. It sells for $130.

Influenced by the look of tennis skirts, Tibi’s Amy Smilovic has designed this Pleated Pull-on Skirt using an Italian lightweight nylon tech fabric that flares at the bottom half. With an adjustable waist for function and comfort, this sporty skirt sells for $475.

A denim skirt is on my wish list for spring. And because this midi has a flounce-y hem, it won’t be too hot to wear when the temperature spikes. It sells for $119 at Massimo Dutti.

 

Oh, yes, sorry about the photo with the bared belly. We are dependent on product shots, and I wanted to show you the lines of Zara’s Layered Box Pleat Skirt with a design that shows off the volume of the skirt when you move. It sells for $129. Compare that to Marni’s A-line skirt with double pleats at the back and front—for $895.

We’ll talk about the big puff sleeves here in a couple of weeks, but note how they balance the wide hem at the bottom of this Midi Shirt Dress from Alexis, a mother-daughter design duo. Also available in black, it sells for $495 at Moda Operandi.

 

 

 

MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an  Amazon Associate.

What We Want for Valentine’s Day

Clockwise from left: a swoon-worthy scent, pearl earrings with gemstones, big blooms, a unique medical-alert bracelet and a splurge-y Van Cleef & Arpels necklace.


By MyLittleBird Staff

FEBRUARY is American Heart Month, in case you hadn’t heard.

“So, how about we do a post on stuff that’s good for the heart?” suggests LittleBird Nancy. “Great idea,” I (LittleBird Janet) reply, “but what exactly do you have in mind?”

“Steel-cut oatmeal in a gorgeous painted container?” answers Nancy. “Hmm. Anything else?” I ask. Reader, we only came up with one other thing, and that’s when we had an, er, change of heart and decided to pose the question to our staff and contributors: What do you want for Valentine’s Day?

 

Val Monroe, who pens How Not to F*ck Up Your Face, loves getting jewelry for Valentine’s Day because she says she rarely buys any for herself. She has her eye on a pair of Lizzie Fortunato Confetti Drop Earrings in freshwater pearl with amethyst, topaz, peridot and aquamarine stones. Val fans, take note: They sell for $230 at Shopbop. (And Val should leave this page open on her computer so that her beau might see it. By chance, of course.)

 

LittleBird Janet—that’s me—is a fool for good scents.

One that lingers in my mind is a Hermetica fragrance I dabbed on my wrists a while ago at Bloomingdale’s in NYC. I got one of those little sample vials to remind me that I wanted it. (I still have that sample, long empty.) Well, one thing led to another and another and . . . I forgot about it until recently when my go-to Acqua di Parma ran dry and my husband objected—kindly—when I purloined some of his Eau Sauvage.

Note to self: Valentine’s Day is as good an excuse as any to gift myself with a beautiful bottle of Source1 Eau de Parfum. It’s not my usual citrus-y, green formula but a more complex blend, including notes of bergamot, woody musk and amber. And I’m imagining how good it’s going to look adorning my bathroom vanity.

Well-Being columnist Mary Carpenter was rushing off to Kansas City but in between packing she said she loves to get flowers—”lots and lots of them,” and all the better if they’re in shades of blue and purple.

She didn’t mention where she’d love to get said blooms, so I rooted around and found these eight stems of vibrant-colored hydrangea from Farmgirl Flowers. Double the pleasure with 16 stems for $136. Or go all out, Mary and/or admirers, with 24 stems!

Nancy Pollard of the Kitchen Detail column began her VDay wish as: “What I want? The return of Jon Stewart to The Daily Show. No, wait, that has already been gifted to me, on February 12.

“But foodwise, I want a fabulous bistecca alla fiorentina accompanied by a nice glass of Valpolicella from the winemaker Dal Forno Romano. I keep seeing [the steaks] in various expensive grades in these cushy-looking see-through fridges in restaurants.

“Above is a picture I took of the last one I had. It was enormous, but not to worry: I was accompanied by the Resident Wine Maniac [Nancy’s husband]. Also by at least one grandson (see the little red toy car on the table? It’s a must-have for one of them when he eats in restaurants).”

Tuscany is home to Chianina beef, Nancy explained, not as expensive as Wagyu A5 (which presents its own set of challenges), and quite lean where Wagyu means heavily marbled. I’m surprised, she continued, that the RWM has never tried this, but here is the website of the 5C – Cattle Group in El Paso, Texas.

 

A neighbor of LittleBird Nancy’s is an entrepreneurial type and, as such, pals around with other entrepreneurial types. Her friend has come up with TapMedID, a simple-enough idea that makes a whole of lot sense.

It looks like that fitness tracker that you stopped wearing (right?), but it has magical powers. There are a lot of medical-alert bracelets and pendants on the market, but this one lets your medical needs speak for themselves: In case of an accident, a Good Samaritan can read the QR code on the silicone bracelet and know what you’re unable to tell them (there are also other ways to unlock the info, and unlimited space to list all your needs on your online profile). Also, the TapMedID will automatically alert your emergency contact that something has happened—and where.

The band requires no batteries, and best of all—for those of us suffering from subscription fatigue—it’s one-and-done, no monthly fee. The TapMedID costs $38.99 on the TapMedID store on Amazon, but there’s a discount for MLB readers: TMID15OFF.

 

“First, let’s be clear about this,” says our art director, LittleBird Kathy. “I loathe Valentine’s Day. Always have. Since introduced to it in grade school almost three-quarters of a century ago, I’ve considered it to be a day of omission and disappointment. In fact, that’s what it should be called. St. Disappointment’s Day. The only thing about it I have ever considered charming was the first-grade classmate who (as we all were) was made to give each classmate a card (clearly addressed by his mother) with mine being addressed to ‘Caffey.’ He couldn’t pronounce ‘th’ so his mother obviously took him at his word.
“Given my history with the ‘holiday,’ I’ve learned to live with no expectations of what the day might (or might not) bring. However, LittleBird Janet is pressing me to bare my heart’s (Get it? Heart’s?) desire and reveal the thing I’d most like to be gifted. That woman is so deceptively insistent. So, Janet, here is what I’d like for Valentine’s Day. Or, any day really:
“An Alhambra necklace from Van Cleef & Arpels. LittleBird Nancy is partly to blame. I’ve been covetously eyeing her Alhambra choker for years. Her necklace is a series of exquisite little mother-of-pearl cloverleafs spaced on a gold chain that holds them just at the base of her throat. I’m slightly more spartan and would be happy with a single clover that hangs a bit below the collarbone. For a mere $2,750, the Alhambra, of 18k gold and mother-of-pearl, could be mine. And someday will be because I fully intend to buy it for myself, all the saints be damned.”

Green Acre columnist Stephanie Cavanaugh has a great sense of humor and obviously passed it on to her daughter, Monica Weddle. “Oh, Moni found it for us,” LittleBird Stephanie confirmed. “I thought it was perfect.” What, you ask? The Midcoast Fencing Athletic Club, in Topsham, Maine (nowhere near where either Stephanie or Monica lives), is offering a two-hour Stab Your Spouse fencing class, to be held from 6 to 8pm on Valentine’s Day (there goes that romantic dinner!). It’ll be a test of your relationship to see if it can survive this.

 

 

MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an  Amazon Associate.

A Shade for All Seasons

From left to right, clockwise: Clare V.’s airy tote bag, Armani Exchange sexy sunnies, a silky button-up from & Other Stories, Veja sneakers in palest purple and a packable puffer from Free People.

By Janet Kelly

FORGET your former feelings about lavender, says Leatrice Eiseman, director of the  Eiseman Center for Color Information and Training. It’s no longer your matronly, ultra-feminine, boring pastel hue. Even macho guys are wearing lavender T-shirts, as well as buying light purple kayaks. The color’s got a brand new vibe, says Eiseman. Plus, it’s a hue you can wear all year round.

“If it’s going to look good in winter, it’s going to look good in the summer,” says Eiseman. For now, think of using it in some kind of plushy fabric—say, faux shearling, alpaca or puffy down—that makes you feel warm.

The magic, though, anytime, is in the mix. “It’s a great color to combine with others,” says Eiseman. Lavender plays well with navy, as well as with blue greens and yellow greens (in the avocado family). And it makes a stunning combo with charcoal gray and yes, black, too.

For the color shy, go small and experiment with it in sneakers, sunnies or handbags.

Below, three spring runway looks and 12 ways to add lavender to your wardrobe right now.

Lavender in bloom on the spring 2024 runways of, from left to right, designers Michael Kors, Staud and Carolina Herrera.

 

Refresh your winter wardrobe with Stand Studio’s Camille coat. Wrapped in a warm cocoon of curly faux shearling, you’re a beacon of light in a sea of black coats. This cuddly outer layer, which works for any outing, sells for $321 at Farfetch.

 

Sometimes you feel like a warm coat; sometimes you don’t. That’s where down vests come in—for those in-between times. You can wear this Super Puff Vest ($198, Aritzia) on its own or as a toasty extra layer under coats and jackets when the temperature plummets. It’s roomy and long enough to keep your fanny covered. The water- and wind-repellent fabric is filled with 700+ goose down.

One of the beauties of Free People’s quilted nylon Puffer is its packability—it folds into its own pocket to create a cushy pillow for travel on airplanes, trains, you name it. Made of water-resistant material that’s filled with a down alternative, it’s warm but not bulky and its oversized shape allows for layers. The jacket sells for $198.

Designed to be worn either as a crew neck or a cardigan (buttons are on the back), this luscious, wool-blend sweater (it’s 37% mohair and 37% baby alpaca) with Bridget Bardot appeal will wipe out winter pallor and look just as good with bleached jeans as with a pair of cropped charcoal pants. It sells for $120 at French label Sézane.

With a spread collar, buttoned cuffs and straight hem, Lisa Yang’s 100% ribbed cashmere cardigan will suit those who opt for a more tailored look. Wear now, wear later. It sells for $546 at Farfetch.

 

Maxi skirts with their long, narrow, constricting silhouettes remind me of the hobble skirts of the early 20th century. That trend was short-lived. I can’t predict the future of maxis, but I prefer a skirt with a leg-freeing flared hem like this pull-on midi from Rails ($188, Bloomingdale’s).

Stock is running out on this mulberry silk shirt ($139) from & Other Stories. Because of the curved hemline, you can wear it untucked—outside your pants—without looking the slightest bit sloppy. It’s a classic button-down except for the modern full-ish sleeve.

I can already hear LittleBird Nancy complaining about this wrinkled linen shirt ($248). That happens to be the signature style of Sausalito, California label CP Shades but not everyone’s cup of tea. For those comfortable with a lived-in look, note that the shirt, which is in the brand’s new 2024 collection, is almost sold out.

If you’re not sure about wearing lilac, take baby steps with accessories. Clare V.’s Sandy Tote (7 inches high by 15 inches long) in unlined crochet with calfskin leather handles will hold your books, etc., and convince you to let go of a bad mood. You don’t need to wait for warm weather to wear this airy bag, which sells for $145 at Shopbop.

It’s always sunglass season. Winter, summer, spring or fall, protect your peepers from glare. These attractive-looking specs in face-flattering lilac are by Armani Exchange and sell for $72 at Sunglass Hut. And, you can put your prescription in them.

Red shoes might run faster, but for quiet luxury, it’s hard to surpass Veja’s cowhide Campo Sneakers in the most subtle of pastel hues. A cushioned collar and tongue coddles feet in these smart sneaks that sell for $175 at Shopbop.

 

A irresistible confection of satin and ostrich feathers, J. Crew’s Santorini Bag ($222.99) is sure to make everyone at the party go green with envy.

 

 

 

 

 

MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an  Amazon Associate.

10 Reasons We Love E. Jean Carroll

E. Jean Carroll leaves a federal court house on May 9, 2023, after the jury found former president Donald J. Trump liable for sexually abusing and defaming her but not for raping her in the sexual assault and defamation civil lawsuit Carroll had brought against him in New York City. /photo by Justin Lane/EPA-EFE/Shutterstock.

By Janet Kelly

NOT ONCE, but twice, E. Jean Carroll has stood up to Donald Trump.

If you’re not up-to-date on the goings-on, here’s what to know:

Last spring, a jury found Trump liable for the defaming and sexual abuse—not rape—of Carroll, a former advice columnist for Elle magazine. She was awarded $5 million. (She said he assaulted her 30 years ago in a Bergdorf Goodman dressing room.)

Carroll took the stand again last week for a federal court trial in the same Manhattan courthouse to determine how much money former President Donald Trump must pay Carroll for comments he made in 2019 denying he sexually assaulted her. The judge in the current case has already said the former president’s 2019 comments defamed her; it’s now up to the jury  to determine the damages he has to pay.

Carroll told jurors: “I’m here because Donald Trump assaulted me, and when I wrote about it [in her 2019 book] What Do We Need Men For? A Modest Proposal, he said it never happened. He lied, and it shattered my reputation.”

We think E. Jean Carroll is an 80-year-old female rock star. Here are just 10 reasons why:

  1. In light of the MeToo movement, she said she couldn’t say silent about the abusive men in her life—and the women she had advised over the years to buck up, speak up, or go to the police. “I felt like a fraud,” she said, because she hadn’t done that herself. By the time she submitted her book proposal—in May 2018—she’d rewritten it as part memoir and included the Trump allegation.
  2. She’s intrepid. She hiked the mountains of Papua New Guinea as a writer for Playboy (she was the magazine’s first female contributing editor), interviewed the notorious Hunter S. Thompson for her 1993 book Hunter: The Strange and Savage Life of Hunter S. Thompson, and wrote a tough-love advice column for Elle for more than 25 years.
  3. She lives by the words of Marcus Aurelius: “I learned that when you get up in the morning you have to believe that this could be the day you die and that grass will be very shortly growing on your grave, and so get on with it,” she said. “It’s a real good way to get up. . . . It really keeps you happy, oddly enough, because you’ve got nothing to lose.”
  4. She’s fighting not just for herself. “The lawsuit is for all women who have been harassed, who cannot speak up and don’t have the money to sue,” she said.
  5. She knows how to dress, arming herself for court wearing layered knits, button-ups, blazers, and belted coats in shades of cream, brown and burgundy.
  6. She will always be remembered as the woman who sued a former president for rape and was awarded $5 million for sexual abuse and defamation.
  7. Trump didn’t stop defaming her, so she is suing him again.
  8. If this is what 80 looks like and acts like, we should all be so lucky, so well-spoken, and ready to wage a war against power on her own behalf and for women everywhere.
  9. She’s got more chutzpah than most every Republican man in Congress, who have all been too chicken to go against Donald Trump for fear of repercussions.
  10. She has an army of wonderful women friends.

 

NB: The trial is scheduled to resume tomorrow after being canceled Monday and Tuesday because of a sick juror and a suspected case of Covid. 

 

 

 

What Is Age-Appropriate Dressing?

From left to right, actress Michelle Yeoh, Martha Stewart and Queen Letizia of Spain.

By MyLittleBird Staff

PSST! Isn’t that a little young for her!? Can you hear your mother’s voice even when you’re the one having the thought? We’re not supposed to be so judgmental, right? This is the era of no rules? Uh-huh. But in Manhattan, where there is endless foot traffic, there are also endless variations on street dressing and rule-breaking. And when the spindly legs of an 80-year-old are sticking out from a miniskirt worn with a sassy teenager-worthy T-shirt, well, the buzzer goes off automatically.

These thoughts are prompted by a recent reader question to Vanessa Friedman, chief fashion critic of The New York Times: What are the rules for dressing as you age? One thought both Friedman and LittleBird Janet Kelly had: If you followed a trend (miniskirt, palazzo pants) back in the day, think twice, or more, about wearing it again. Then again, trends are constantly being tweaked and can certainly accommodate age. No?

Not everyone worries about being appropriate. Actress Halle Berry’s stylist put her in a see-through babydoll dress for last year’s Vanity Fair Oscar party. Could the fit, gorgeous 57-year-old carry it off? Sure. Should she have? Well, maybe one guiding principle should be, What image of myself am I trying to project? For Berry, maybe it was “babe with killer legs who can still pull off a sexy role,” in which case, Congrats.

The rest of us may opt for elegant, strong, serious or, at times, playful but with dignity. You probably cannot rid yourself of your mother’s voice in your head. And you can listen to it. But then, knowing who you are now, it’s up to you whether to heed or ignore it.

To illustrate how some women are balancing fashion and age, we looked at red-carpet pix and retail offerings of the moment. We sprang ahead into the spring 2024 runways for how to, and how not to, wear statement sleeves (FYI: An exhibit on big sleeves opens next Wednesday at the Museum at FIT in New York.) On the retail front, tulle skirts caught our eye and we came up with some ideas of how to wear two versions in a grownup, modern way.

But again, listen to your mother. Or not.

 

Photo by Rob Latour/Shutterstock

Janet: Prior to snagging the 2023 Oscar for Best Actress in her role in sci-fi, action film Everything, Everywhere All at Once, 61-year-old Michelle Yeoh attended the Oscars Nominees Luncheon in Beverly Hills wearing a Chanel pre-fall 2023 tweed pantsuit with a flared leg. It’s appropriately dressy for the occasion and for Yeoh’s athletic build. I have two quibbles: The pant legs are too long, and her Richard Mille watch is too big and sporty-looking to play well with this elegant suit. She’s an ambassador for the brand, so I guess we will forgive her.

Nancy: What she said.

Also, seems to me that ALL of the pants being shown for the past year or so are too long. In terms of age-appropriate, let me just say two words: tripping hazard. (Not to mention—but I will anyway—dry-cleaning bills.)

Kathy: What they both said.

I too am baffled by these sloppy long pant legs. I drank a good portion of my morning tea today while scanning the red-carpet shots from last night’s Emmy ceremony. Far too many messy, bunched-up pant hems for my taste. It makes me think the wearer is missing feet. Yet Yeoh looks lovely and chic in this pantsuit. It’s a serious suit, but far from dowdy. Perfect for a fancy luncheon.

Photo by Kristina Bumphrey/Shutterstock.

Nancy: In this red-carpet shot, Martha Stewart looks as if she’s apologizing for coming to the premiere of  the movie About My Father without first changing from her gardening clothes. This isn’t a case of age-inappropriateness but event-deafness. The color-coordinated peep-toe shoes suggest she was pretty definite about what she was doing. And the jogger suit would, I guess, be fine for a Saturday lunch with friends, but I don’t think she did herself any favors here.

Janet: It doesn’t matter what age you are, this olive green velour sweat suit is inappropriate attire to wear for a red-carpet walk at a film premiere in New York City. Except for those matching platform heels, I’d be tempted to think Martha was heading for the gym or an appointment with her masseuse or, as Nancy mentioned, Martha had no time to change out of her gardening gear. Even if unintended, it sends a snooty message that says I’m too busy and important to dress for this event.

Kathy: I bet her fancy chickens like it.

 

/Photo by Rob Latour/Shutterstock.

Photo by JJ Guillen/EPA-EFE/Shutterstock

Janet: Arriving at a meeting with the Spanish Association Against Cancer in Madrid, Spain’s Queen Letizia is ready to get down to business wearing a collarless white blouse, navy blue cardigan with pockets, trim black pants, kitten heels and handbag and computer. Her outfit is classic, appropriate for her age and the occasion, and yet totally modern. And that navy sweater instead of matching the other black elements, makes the whole look less serious. The white top lights up her face.

Nancy: In the dozens of pictures I’ve seen, Queen Letizia always looks trim and modern yet elegant and appropriate to her age and ceremonial station (there are many photos of gowns and regalia). Maybe it’s the lack of hats, but Letizia’s style is a refreshing divergence from the British royal family’s trappings (forgive me, I’ve just been catching up on The Crown). Maybe there’s a downside to not looking overly royal, but in terms of age-appropriateness, the 51-year-old Spanish queen is a model to follow.

Kathy: I’ve always liked combining black and navy blue so this combo suits me just fine. I’ve noticed Letizia pictured in an array of shirtwaist dresses and coordinates that don’t scream royalty, just good taste. Of course, on her sleek, slender frame a burlap sack probably would look swell. However, she doesn’t seem to lean toward flashy and I admire that. She sticks to an adult tailored look that also manages to stay fresh and modern.

 

Nancy: Here’s a design trend I can get behind: extravagant sleeve action. Interested in getting out of your Gap comfort clothes? A foray into the land of billowing sleeves can take you there without damage to your dignity.

Now, before you assume I’m getting behind the idea of the short-short denim outfit by Sacai, on the right, take a look at the more fluid, and arguably more wearable, version of the sleeve trend by Khaite, on the left. Easy-peasy (at least if you’re not height-challenged) and elegant.

I confess I love the architectural stiffness of Sacai’s denim sleeve—but as a savvy fashion editor pointed out to me eons ago, by the time some of these runway trends reach the sales floor of a department store, guided by buyers who know their customers, most sleeves will be scaled back and the butt-cheek-exposing micro miniskirts and shorts will probably be cut longer. And the Sacai top will be shown, and bought, with less-challenging bottom pieces. Keep the lower half of you trimmed back (like Khaite’s cigarette pants, on the left) and you wind up with an outfit that’s refreshing, appropriate for grownup girls and quite on trend.

Janet: Mega sleeves have been an enduring trend for the past decade. In this look (left) from her spring 2024 runway, Catherine Holstein, Khaite designer, played with proportion, balancing the billowy sleeves of a romantic peasant blouse with tailored black cigarette pants, a combination we grownup girls can pull off. Agree, Nancy. On the other hand, in this denim short suit (right) from Abe Chitose of Sacai, the top half is so circular and sculptural, it is almost a sphere shape that overwhelms the short bottom half. Balance matters, so we’ll see how this runway outfit morphs into something mere mortals can wear.

Nancy: Fair enough!

Kathy: Okay, Nancy and Janet. I’ll take your word for it, but these billowing sleeves, even if pared down, are too much for me. Realistically, how often would a person wear this look? Makes me think of Jerry Seinfeld in the Puffy Shirt episode.

Nancy: Ouch!

 

Janet: There’s something about tulle that appeals to my inner ballerina, the one who fondly remembers Carrie Bradshaw’s tiered white tulle skirt from Sex and the City. Both of these skirts above are from Anthropologie and sell for under $175. I’d pair the one on the left with a hip-length, structured matching blazer or jacket—and kitten heels—and wear it to a spring wedding. Another possibility is wearing either one with a leather jacket and boots for a bit of grit to balance the girliness.

Nancy: Here, after all these years, is Carrie Bradshaw’s tulle skirt but made for real women. It might be easier to pull off the graceful swish of the pleated mid-length skirt on the left—I see the look on the streets of New York all the time, on all ages of women. But toning down the top, as shown on the right, makes even the flouncier of the two skirts a possibility. Yes, it takes some grit, but age doesn’t have to rule this trend out. Just sayin’.

Kathy: May I please have them both?

 

Through the Racks: Alex Mill

Clockwise from left to right: A striped quarter-zip in wool,  a classic fisherman sweater updated, a versatile polo in cashmere and a tote to honor Fido.

This is the fourth in our occasional series browsing the aisles of some of fashion’s biggest brands and then guiding you with our thoughts on their best offerings.

By Janet Kelly

STYLE that never goes out of style is Alex Mill’s mantra.

Founded by Alex Drexler in 2012, in 2019, he joined forces with his famous father, Mickey (founder of Old Navy and Madewell and the former CEO of The Gap and J. Crew), and Somsack Sikhounmuong, former creative director of J. Crew and Madewell. Their mission: “to bring their customers not just any clothes, but the right clothes.”

Quilted outerwear is having its moment, and we love the look of this shell with its corduroy collar and trim, inspired by old-school military field liners/jackets. During January Thaw, wear it layered over shirts and sweaters. Then come April, it’s your go-to all chilly spring long. Also available in black and army green, the Quinn Jacket sells for $240.

 

Alex Mill connected with the creative director of Blank Supply in New York City to release a limited batch of Rework Jackets in one-of-a-kind vintage quilt patterns. The one above (no. 33) is from a “log cabin” block made with squares and strips of fabric sewn around a red center square believed to symbolize the hearth of a home. It sells for a spendy $650, but no one on your block will show up wearing anything remotely similar.

Alex Mill reinvents the classic bandana scarf in an all-wool, oversize, cold-weather version, adding an extra 13 inches to the standard size to create a wrap-able shape measuring 35-by-35 inches. For a change, swap it for your scarf under your coat.  It sells for $155.

 

Animal lover/owner or not, this Perfect Weekday Dog Tote ($225) is downright adorable. Thirteen inches high with a front panel that’s 17 inches wide and side panel 9.5 inches in width, each one is hand-painted with the silhouette of either a labrador, golden retriever, golden doodle or dachshund and is available in navy, beige or khaki. Inside, there’s a laptop-size compartment plus a zip pocket to keep keys and cash secure. Carry it with the double handles or with the shoulder strap. The snap closures let you make it more compact.

 

If your neck feels cold, so do you. Avoid that possibility by choosing a warm and generously sized scarf like this bright Tartan plaid in cashmere ($195) that’s 72 inches long by 12 inches wide. It’s from family-owned British manufacturer, Joshua Ellis, which has been producing handwoven goods since 1767.

Striped quarter-zip sweaters are ubiquitous this season. But instead of the usual cotton-wool blend, Alex Mill’s Felix Zip Merino Stripe is made from all wool and sized large enough to wear over the shirt of your choice. It sells for $195.

Lucky for us, Alex Mill is offering a host of post-holiday deals (all items are final sale–no returns or exchanges). Today’s the last day to score discounts.

With soft ruffles at the collar and cuffs, this feminine take on the button-down/button-up, available in rich olive as well as in white and navy, is reduced from $145 to $87. The site claims that the crisp poplin fabric looks even better a little rumpled and doesn’t require ironing. Plus, after seeing the Golden Globe-winning film Poor Things, I’m inclined to think any top with decorative detail on the sleeves looks fashion-forward.

 

A cross between a sweater and a jacket, this cardigan, knit from a two-ply, wool blend (80% merino wool, 20% recycled nylon), has a boxy, relaxed fit, ideal for layering and keeping you feeling snug. Reduced from $235 to $118, it’s waitlisted in this taupe color but still has plenty of availability in heather olive.

 

I’ve been eyeing these mid-rise, tapered cords for a while. I’ve always been partial to corduroy but couldn’t find the fit I preferred until recently. The dark olive Boy Pant (above) has a slightly higher notched waist and relaxed legs with pleats at the hips. The  sale price—for $78, reduced from $135—just might convince me to spring for it—and the matching blazer, too, which is selling for $113, down from its original $225 price tag.

 

With its face-framing collar, a few buttons at the neck that you can close or leave open to show a little skin, Alex Mill’s cashmere knit Alice polo is a go-with-everything kind of item. Reduced from $295 to $177, it’s not surprising the sweater is sold out in almost every size in every color—in addition to kelly green above, in oatmeal, black, pink and frost blue. Put your name on the wait list and cross your fingers.

 

A blend of 65% merino wool, 30% nylon and 5% alpaca, this updated (with a roll neck) and streamlined-fit fisherman sweater that’s reduced from $195 to $117. It’s currently sold out in every size in both this turquoise color and in barley. So, you have to put your name on a wait list. Sigh.

 

To see everything on sale now at Alex Mill, click here.

 

 

 

 

MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an  Amazon Associate.

What We Want to Wear Now: 01.04.24

Cool new sweatshirts From left to right, PE Nation’s adorable Andorra hoodie, a collared version from Rumored and Alice + Olivia and Basquiat’s colorful collab. 

By Janet Kelly

AND JUST like that, the holidays are over. Put the sequins away until next year—or until an invite for a swank soiree shows up on your calendar. While it’s the season for thinking all things cozy and comfortable, it’s not the time to indulge in schlumpy sweatshirts. That was so two years ago.

Designers and retailers, including J. Crew, Tory Burch, Clare V. and Alice + Olivia, have stepped up to the plate with a raft of colorful, patterned and embellished styles that look and feel new and exciting to wear.

Here are some on our radar for 2024. Happy New Year!

Start 2024 off right with a cheery cherry red heritage fleece hoodie from J. Crew. The white drawstring detail at the collar reminds us—in a good way—of way-back-when styles. A cotton-poly blend with a touch of stretch, it will feel good to wrap up in all year. Full price, it’s $98, but take 25% off with code NEWYEAR.

 

Trovata isn’t settling for your everyday, quarter-zip fleece sweatshirt. Instead, the label, known for its classic silhouettes and feminine details, embellishes its Casey Pullover ($318) with a quilted floral design on a rich, dark green background. Roomy front pockets add a practical note to this reimagined version of a standby style.

Sometimes I just want to wear something with a collar. That’s the tailored detail that appeals to me about Rumored’s mid-weight fleece Airport Sweatshirt. True to its name, it’s just the kind of roomy, warm piece you’ll want to wear while traveling cross-country or around the globe. Available in oat, pearl gray and black, it sells for $84.

It’s not just a sweatshirt, it’s art, which is one way to justify the sky-high price tag on this half-zip printed fleece from American fashion designer Connor Ives. Made with 33% recycled fibers, the sweater depicts a landscape of the Hudson Valley, after a photo Ives once took of the woods behind his home. A neon green zipper and matching trim at the collar, cuffs and hem updates the picture. It sells for $575.58 at Net a Porter.

When you feel like partying but want to feel comfortable, too, Clare V. has got your number with this over-the-top take in 100% cotton fleece. For my fringe-loving friends and colleagues (you know who you are), Le Drop  sells for $195. The site recommends sizing up for a more generous fit.

Instead of the expected fleece, Lululemon opts for a quilt fabric lined in jersey for this half-zip pullover ($148) with a funnel neck. Not too short or too long, it hits right at the waistline and comes in black and bone, in addition to beige shown above.

This PE Nation Andorra Hoodie ($189) is sold out just about everywhere we looked. However, if you scurry, and you’re a size medium, you may be able to score this cute paisley print before it’s gone at Anthropologie.

Tory Burch may have strayed from her roots, but there remain plenty of options for preppy stalwarts. I rest my case with this French terry chevron hoodie with a high-low hemline that sells for $178 at Shopbop.

 

The delightful fruit of a collaboration between Alice + Olivia and the Basquiat estate, this Sunny Cropped Hoodie with the artist’s signature words, images and eye-popping colors also offers comfort in a super-soft cotton fleece and oversize fit. It sells for a splurge-y $440.

A hoodie in cashmere? Heavenly, like this Off-Duty Hoodie that won’t blow your budget. Besides this peacock blue, it also comes in camel, black, charcoal and oatmeal for $145.

If you love art, say so out loud by wearing Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Campus hoodie. In a cotton-poly blend, it’s traditionally styled with a drawcord and front pouch pocket, plus a double-layer hood for an extra-cozy feel. It sell for $69.

And more: Three old-school options. 

Get comfy in H&M’s relaxed-fitting Oversize Hoodie for a wallet-friendly $27.99.

When you’re going for a clean, crisp look, it’s hard to top this Gap white sweatshirt with contrasting logo in navy. It sells for $49.95.

Girlfriend Collective’s Classic Hoodie, which comes in eight other colors besides this tempest blue/gray, is made from a blend of recycled and organic cotton. It’s about as old-school as they come—with a generous cut, drop shoulders and plushy lining. You can make it yours for $88.

 

MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an  Amazon Associate.

12 Last-Minute-y Gifts

Down-to-the-wire gift ideas. Clockwise, from left to right: a twinkly evening bag from Anthropologie, Bauble Bar’s crystal floral studs, a mini blush from Westman Atelier, Z Supply’s matching sweats and a charming bud vase from Terrain. 

By Janet Kelly

WE’RE fast approaching the 11th hour, D-Day for Christmas shopping. In light of that deadline, we’ve assembled a list of 12 possible—admittedly rather random—gifts/stocking stuffers for your daughter-in-law, best buddy, cousin, you fill in the blank. Your fallback position is Amazon, which says you must order on or before Dec. 22, 2023, to take advantage of Prime two-day shipping and have your gifts arrive by Christmas. (Some items “may be available for next-day delivery when ordered on Dec. 23, 2023, depending on your location.”)

But if you live near or in an urban area, consider shopping the old-fashioned way by going to stores with brick-and-mortar locations, such as Anthropologie, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Ulta and Sephora. They will be open right up to the last minute—on Dec. 24.

 

Make your BFF’s Christmas morning by stuffing NYX’s Fat Oil Lip Drip in her stocking. It will give her the gift of shiny, non-sticky lips. Infused with squalane for moisture, it will also protect and hydrate chapped winter pouts. Along with the “Missed Call” color above, it comes in seven other shades and can be worn as a soft tint or be paired with a favorite lipstick to add intensity. A dupe for Christian Dior’s much pricier Addict Lip Glow Oil, it sells for $9 at Ulta.

 

Was it your sister who said she had nothing new to wear to a New Year’s Eve party? Surprise her with Bauble Bar’s sparkling Daffodil Crystal earrings, made of pavé glass stones and gold-tone brass. At 1.1 inches long, these statement studs will dress up that black velvet jacket or pantsuit she already owns. They sell for $44 at Neiman Marcus.

 

There’s something charmingly old-fashioned about these moss-colored, waffle-knit Fisherman mittens. Cold hands will appreciate their soft, warm lining and that their length (10.25 inches) covers the skin well past the wrist. They sell for $44 at Terrain.

 

For anyone you know coping with hair loss, the rounded wide teeth of this blush pink Untangle and Glide comb will gently work through tangles while also stimulating the scalp. It’s also meant to be used in the shower for combing conditioner through one’s mane. It’s $11.49 at Ulta.

 

Anastasia’s Brow & Brag Duo includes two full-size products—a jet-black mascara for defining and plumping up lashes, plus a clear gel for adding fullness, styling and setting the shape of the brow. It sells for $29 at Ulta.

 

Is your attire for the holidays missing some bling? Fill in that gap and gift yourself or someone you like a lot with Anthropologie’s Gold Sequin Party Bag (8″h x 7″l x 1″d), embellished with glass and brass and plenty of fun fringe—for $76.80.

 

Z Supply has recently expanded its reach into more tailored clothes, but its wheelhouse remains casual and sporty, like its classic crew fleece sweatshirt. A pullover in a cotton-and-poly blend, with a slight drop shoulder and relaxed fit, it’s available in seven other colors for $59. For a cozy, head-to-toe, post-holiday look, spring for the matching sweatpant jogger ($64).

 

 

Makeup artist to models and movie stars, Gucci Westman launched her own makeup line, Westman Atelier, in spring 2018. The much-missed Barneys New York is where I first encountered the line.  As I know I’ve mentioned before, I’m a fan of the brand’s Lit Up Highlight Stick for the subtle glow it gives to my face. Now I’m game for adding her Baby Cheeks Lip & Cheek Cream Blush to my routine. Shown here in dusty nude rose, it comes in a petite, portable, travel-ready size for $26. This is a hint, Secret Santa.

 

For the Pilates practitioner on your list, pretty, printed socks will be welcomed. These half-toe “Prima Ballerinas allow plenty of room for toes to move and spread; a non-slip grip sole keeps feet secure on the Reformer or Cadillac, and a fitted heel ensures that socks stay put. They sell for $18 at Neiman Marcus.

 

 

My slippers have always had a short shelf life, so I’ve determined—rightly or not—that it’s hard to go wrong choosing them as a gift. That’s especially true if they’re as cute and cheerful as these soft, striped, fleeced-lined ones from Bombas. With silicone grippers on the soles, staying upright even on slippery, polished floors is assured. They sell for $40 at Saks Fifth Avenue.

 

 

Beanies, berets and/or bucket hats are not for everyone. If you know someone who fits that description, gift her with these fluffy faux fur earmuffs . They’ll keep her ears warm and won’t do as much havoc with her hair as the alternatives. They’re $48 at Free People.

 

When you arrive at the New Year’s Day party you’ve been invited to, bring one (or all three) of Terrain’s glass bud vases  (4″h x 2″ diameter at base and 1.25″ diameter at opening). In addition to lavender, they’re available in blue and peach and make a colorful trio. Whether one, two or three, each makes the perfect home for a petite fresh flower, a preserved stem or faux florals. They’re $13 each.

 

 

MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an  Amazon Associate.

Winter Blues

iStock

By Mary Carpenter

PREVIOUS MyLittleBird columns on the effects of light on wakefulness and mood have appeared in the spring, when the “ blue” morning light that wakes us up and makes some of us happier is increasing every day. So-called blue light inhibits the creation of melatonin in the brain so that the body knows it’s time to wake up, and early morning light contains more wavelengths in the blue portion of the spectrum than light at other hours. On dark winter mornings, late sunrise can interfere with circadian rhythms, causing melatonin levels to remain high for hours after waking—which in turn can cause fatigue and depression. These winter blues affect about 14 percent of Americans, with another 6 percent suffering the more severe seasonal affective disorder, or SAD. An estimated 10 to 20 percent of all cases of recurrent depression follow a seasonal pattern, according to Medical News Today.

Women are more likely to be affected than men, and January and February are the most difficult months. Besides fatigue and depression, symptoms of SAD include weight and appetite changes, difficulty concentrating, loss of interest in social activities and feelings of anxiety and irritability. In the past, the best solution has been “light therapy,” either heading outdoors as early as possible in the morning or using a light box like the Verilux, with light measuring 5,000 lux—compared to 500 lux at sunrise, the 10,000 lux of full daylight and up to 100,000 lux for direct sunlight.

But in a recent study, six weeks of light therapy for 30 to 60 minutes upon waking worked about the same as an alternative, cognitive behavior therapy (CBT) in twice-weekly sessions over the same period. CBT taught participants to challenge negative thoughts about dark winter months and resist behaviors like social isolation. The study at the University of Vermont, published in the American Journal of Psychiatry, followed 177 subjects over three years. During the second winter, those in both treatment groups initially experienced “large improvements,” but these dwindled after a while, according to the study’s leader psychology professor, Kelly Rohan. And in the third winter, 46 percent of those using light therapy had a recurrence of depression compared to 27 percent of those who had undergone CBT.

Rohan compares light therapy to blood pressure medication, a palliative treatment that requires you to keep using it to be effective, versus CBT, which is preventive: Once learned, the impact should last because CBT teaches skills, Rohan said. And with some research showing that thoughts and behaviors play a role in SAD, CBT gives patients a sense of  control, Rohan told the Washington Post. “We can think outside of the light box. The good news is we can change our thoughts and behaviors.”

Giving CBT patients an even greater sense of control is CBT online. In recent literature reviews, some studies showed that people using internet-delivered CBT had equal or better outcomes than those using traditional in-person CBT, although study leaders caution against internet-based therapy for people with severe mental illness. An Australian study found that the free internet-based MoodGym CBT program, accompanied by brief face-to-face support from a psychologist, was an “effective treatment of depression” in a small sample of patients.

Among alternative weapons against SAD are the timing of exercise and diet. Because decreased body temperature signals the body that it’s time to sleep, 20 to 30 minutes of vigorous exercise in the morning can stave off sleepiness by raising the body temperature as much as two degrees for up to five hours. Meals high in protein also increase wakefulness, compared to high-carb meals, which make it easier to fall asleep—even when undesirable, such as at the opera. And getting protein from fatty fish like salmon can help you face winter like the Icelanders, who never seem to suffer from SAD —armed with high levels of omega-3 fats, which may stabilize mood and keep depression at bay, along with vitamin D, the “sunshine vitamin.”

But you might not want to abandon bright lights entirely, especially if body mass index (BMI) is a concern. In a Northwestern University study, for every hour that exposure to bright light was delayed, the subjects’ body mass index rose 1.28 points. Also, compared to CBT, there is nothing like the immediacy of that Verilux glow—or even better, of those first sunny springtime mornings some of us are already looking forward to.

 

—Mary Carpenter regularly reports on topical subjects in health and medicine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All I want for Christmas is . . .

 

By Janet Kelly

 

BEFORE JFK, Jr. was even on her radar, in the late 1980s Carolyn Bessette Kennedy’s own star was ascending. After a teaching stint, she worked as a saleswoman for Calvin Klein and climbed the ranks to become publicity director for the label’s Manhattan store. She also was a personal shopper for Klein’s high-profile clients and a style muse for Klein. Sadly, her life was cut short in 1999 when she and Kennedy (whom she married in 1996) and Bessette’s sister died in a 1999 plane crash. Now, more than 20 years later, one of the most photographed women in the world, who never gave interviews and never wore logos, is remembered in a new book, CBK: Carolyn Bessette Kennedy: A Life in Fashion ($58.50, Amazon), by Sunita Kamar Nair. It’s filled with pictures of Bessette Kennedy’s most famous looks, along with essays from and interviews with designers, including Gabriela Hearst and Yohji Yamamoto, Michael Kors, Calvin Klein and Tory Burch, about her innate sense of style.

Maybe it’s the influence of HBO’s “Succession” and the idea of “stealth wealth” clothing, but Bessette Kennedy’s understated looks have woven their way into the fashion zeitgeist. C.B.K.’s wardrobe essentials—white shirts, long pencil skirts, jeans, slip dresses and men’s overcoats dominated the 2024 spring runways.

 

Unlike Bessette Kennedy, Ann Lowe, a Black woman, who grew up in Clayton, Alabama, was rarely photographed and her major contributions to American style were unrecognized during her lifetime (c. 1898–1981). Lowe’s opulent evening gowns and bridal wear were sold in upscale department stores across the country. She even made Jackie Kennedy’s wedding gown and bridesmaid dresses, but when she arrived to deliver them, a butler at the Auchincloss estate told her to enter through the service entrance. (She refused.) Although Lowe’s designs regularly appeared in Vogue and Vanity Fair, her name was a well-kept secret except to rich families like the Rockefellers, the Roosevelts and the Whitneys.

New photography of her couture gowns—including details of her intricate floral embellishments—is giving her long overdue credit in Ann Lowe: American Couturier by Elizabeth Way, published this September by Rizzoli Electa. Essays discuss the hardships and achievements of Lowe’s life, profile Black designers whom she influenced and describe the heroic efforts to preserve her gowns. The book accompanies an exhibit of the same title at Winterthur in Delaware—the largest to date, featuring 40 gowns (many that have never been on public display), showing her evolution as a designer from the 1920s to the 1960s. If you can’t make it to the Brandywine Valley, you can still admire Lowe’s work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute fall 2023 exhibition (through March 3), “Women Dressing Women,” which celebrates the art and creativity of more than 70 womenswear designers, from 1910 to today.

 

Fashion historian and author of Making a Spectacle: A Fashionable History of Glasses, Jessica Glasscock dives into the history of wigs and hairpieces in Wigging Out: Fake Hair That Made Real History ($22.52, Amazon). Wigs have been around for thousands of years, covering the heads of everyone from Cleopatra and Louis XIV to Diana Ross, Naomi Campbell and 21st-century drag queens. In ancient Egypt, they mainly served ceremonial purposes; for Roman women, human-hair wigs were the gold standard as they were for kings and queens of Europe in the late seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. One of the many reasons Marie Antoinette lost her head was over the extravagant cost of the wigs she had designed for herself—some including actual birdcages. Similarly complicated ones worn on the second season of Queen Charlotte: Bridgerton required the actress playing the queen to wear a neck brace to hold them up. Fast forward to the 1960s when fashion magazines were touting wig wardrobes, and Saks Fifth Avenue was selling $5.99 acetate wigs in colors such as mint, apricot, honey and cobalt blue.

As Glasscock sums up the story of wigs: “Sometimes they were about looking good. Somethimes they were about looking rich. Sometimes they were about looking like one still had hair …” But “where there’s a will, there’s a wig.”

 

 

If eyes are the window to the soul, then enhancing their beauty must be a good idea. In Eyeliner: A Cultural History (Amazon, $23.40), Lebanese-British journalist Zahra Hankir makes her case for the cosmetic, which has fascinated her since she was a teenager, transforming her vision of herself. Further inspired by seeing a bust of the Egyptian queen Nefertiti with her kohl-lined eyes in a Berlin museum, she set out to research the history of how humans have been drawn to lining their eyes.

She visits in Chad to interview a group of men who draw kohl on their eyes to attract females. In Iran, she discovers that wearing kohl is an act of resistance; in Mexico, a class marker. A Buddhist monk and makeup artist in Japan tells her eyeliner “accentuates what’s already there.” Traveling to the far corners of the globe, Hankir reports on how eyeliner can signal religious devotion, attract potential partners, ward off evil forces, shield eyes from the sun and communicate without saying a word.

 

 

The exhibition, “Fashioned by Sargent,” will be at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston until January 15, 2024. The next best thing to seeing it is getting a copy of the catalogue ($49.98, Amazon) of the same name accompanying the show. Gorgeous images of Sargent’s work are shown alongside equally exquisite costumes of the Gilded Age (including those worn by his sitters). Sargent was a master of showing texture, drape and the way fabrics responded to light. The pictures of sumptuous gowns, gentlemanly dressing gowns and riding clothes may tell you everything you want to know, but if not, essays by art scholars offer new insights into the works of this famous American artist.

 

Published in association with the Jewish Museum in New York and concurrent exhibit through Feb. 18, 2024, Mood of the Moment: Gaby Aghion and Chloé ($55.42, Amazon) offers an historical overview of fashion designer Gaby Aghion’s life, career and legacy at French fashion house Chloé. Aghion, an Egyptian emigré, who launched her line in 1952 in Paris, named her design house after a friend named Chloé (there was never a designer of that name).

Illustrated with photos of 70 years of clothing, along with sketches and advertisements, the book tells how Aghion brought a fresh, outsider perspective to French fashion, embracing a transition from haute couture to prêt-à-porter. Essays shed light on the company’s approach to fashion and how it promoted young talent. The first in a line of creative directors after Aghion who embodied and reinterpreted her original inspiration was Karl Lagerfeld, who headed design for 25 years. He was followed by Martine Sitbon, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo and most recently, Gabriela Hearst, who in a Washington Post Live discussion, praised Chloé for how much she had learned in her stint there and for being ahead of its time for sustainability in fashion. Hearst is back designing her own label while leading the charge for eco-friendly practices and focusing on the idea that less is more.

 

MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale. We are also an  Amazon Associate.

Late Dates #22: The Tarnished Bachelor

CINEMABLEND

By Grace Cooper

IT took me many weeks to work up to watching another episode of the Golden Bachelor. Skipping quickly through the first four episodes, I wondered to myself why I dislike this show so much. At first Gerry truly did come across as genuinely charming. We cheered to think a 72-year-old widower might sincerely be looking to find true love again after the sudden death of his high school sweetheart wife of four-plus decades. I confess that all that crying he does in every episode is a bit off-putting, and I wondered if a few months of grief counseling might have been a good idea before baring his heart before a national audience. Then I considered as did so many viewers, what’s the harm in viewing Gerry simultaneously courting 20 older women in what can only be described as any elderly man’s daydream?

But there was something else…some nagging feeling that all that emotive, hyper-sincerity was just a tad too scripted. Outside of our favorite fantasy man Ted Lasso, how many real men are that sunny, vulnerable and readily communicative? It was bound to happen, but earlier this month, determined journalists from The Hollywood Reporter uncovered a darker, previously undisclosed side to Gerry’s personality.

According to corroborated interviews with anonymous sources, Gerry lied about dating a woman for 3 years, beginning just one month after his wife’s death. Gerry courted ‘Caroline’ for several months, and then, after he promised to marry her, she moved into the lake home he and his former wife had built. She recounted her surprise when unexpectedly our golden bachelor charged Caroline for half the household expenses, and according to this anonymous ex, soon after his personality began to change. A bit of a neat freak, Gerry instructed Caroline to make the bed immediately upon arising. At one point, Gerry fat-shamed this woman, telling her he wasn’t bringing her to his high school reunion because she’d gained 10 pounds from the stress of this “walking-on-eggshells” living arrangement. At that point, she agreed to move out but subsequently fell and required surgery for a broken ankle. Adding insult to injury, Gerry accused her of falling as a ruse to delay her exit. Additionally, Gerry, who was billed as a successful former restaurateur, apparently padded his resume. He had previously owned and sold a small burger joint, but in recent decades supported himself mostly as a handyman.

Back to the Golden Bachelor series…what’s really happening here? Why am I having such a visceral dislike to just another improbable mating game played out in front of millions of viewers? It occurs to me that the platform for such “reality” shows casts Gerry in the role of the consummate narcissist, and those dozens of fawning old gals in the role of helpless victim to all the games true narcissists play in everyday relationships. Week after week, we watch as Gerry “evaluates” one woman after another for worthiness. As pressure to please Gerry grows, we observe as one by one these accomplished and previously confident women are reduced to tears, anxiety attacks, paranoia and fear that this may be the week in which Gerry decides whether they will be sent packing. What we are observing is a narcissist’s fantasyland: 20 codependent women all vying for the prize—a self-absorbed, preening, love-bombing, gas-lighting, emotional manipulator.

First, I should clarify that the term “narcissist” is tossed around with reckless abandon these days. There are those exhibiting narcissistic behaviors on a spectrum of behaviors considered “normal” depending upon the situation. Then there are those animals who meet the diagnostic criteria of narcissistic personality disorder. The Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (DSM) is the handbook widely used by clinicians and psychiatrists in the United States to diagnose psychiatric illnesses. For all intents and purposes in the dating world, it is helpful to recognize narcissistic traits to avoid getting caught up in the web of deception these individuals spin, when looking for their next source of narcissistic supply. You see, narcissists are often referred to as vampires feeding off the genuine emotional responses they provoke in the romantic partners they target.

Overt narcissists are characterized by nine criteria. First, they have a grandiose sense of self-importance. They brag and exaggerate their achievements to impress. They engage in fantasies about having superior intelligence, beauty, which entitles them to power, wealth and love. They believe they are superior and should only associate with other superior beings. They expect to be catered to or deserving of special treatment to an unreasonable degree. They become angry when they are denied. They are willing to exploit others in the pursuit of what they want. They lack empathy and hurt others without conscience. They see emotions in others as weakness. They are envious and belittle the achievements of others. They are arrogant, patronizing and condescending.

Surprisingly, at the root of this despicable personality disorder is an exceptionally fragile sense of self-esteem, leaving narcissists often experiencing bouts of depression, anxiety and emptiness. They are preoccupied with how others see them and constantly fish for compliments to fill the void inside.

The covert type of narcissist is a bit harder to spot, as they are the fragile loner types, avoiding intimacy, fearing vulnerability, frequently depressed, yet enraged when criticized or rejected. These are the perfectionists, silently seething loner types. I was previously married to this type of narcissist.

The real question to answer is why these women—why any woman— would find a narcissist irresistible, as these women all profess to be falling for Gerry. Outside the phenomena of group hysteria, and female codependency narcissists are typically charming at first, which explains the initial attraction. There are stages to normal romantic couplings, but for narcissists there are predictable patterns to what is known as the narcissistic abuse cycle.

Idealization stage: This how the seduction begins with a phenomena referred to as love-bombing. The narcissist quickly connects with you, puts you on a pedestal, idealizes you. It’s an intense, fast-moving and passionate phase that is more manipulation than love-at-first-sight.

Devaluation phase: This is when the narcissist slowly starts making you feel insecure and devalued through criticism, passive-aggressiveness, backhanded compliments, stonewalling, comparison to others and other mind games.

Repetition phase: Rinse and repeat…in this confusing stage, a narcissist idealizes, then devalues in a cyclical manner causing confusion and distress.

Discard stage: When narcissists no longer have use for relationships, they may abruptly end it. There might be gaslighting to make you feel as if you are to blame, questioning your reality. As you begin to accept and separate from the narcissist emotionally, they may also hoover you back in and initiate a cycle of abuse.

See where I am headed with this analysis? Watch a few episodes again—all the clues an armchair analyst requires to see “The Golden Bachelor” for what it really is. Gerry is the biggest lothario of all…dating multiple women…playing on their sympathies…gaslighting, love bombing, trauma bonding, triangulating, discarding and then hoovering them back in!

Finally, the grand finale. Leslie believes Gerry when he previously called her “his girl” and professed his love…but then Gerry hauls Leslie home to meet his grown kids…they give her a thumbs down…

Yep, what 72-year-old grown-ass man wouldn’t ask the kids for help in choosing his new wife?

“Be happy…” Gerry tells Leslie as he casts her adrift.

Leslie is crying…Gerry is crying about breaking a good person’s heart… “I hate myself.”

But WAIT! Gerry has already used the next line in a previous episode…

“Only time I felt worse was when my wife died,” he sobs.

Leslie calls Gerry on his duplicity and for setting her up for humiliation in front of millions of viewers…although if anyone is still watching this snoozer at this point, it’s only to view this final discard stage.

Gerry at last officially picks Teresa, the swell gal who was manipulative enough to throw Kathy under the bus by tattling to Gerry, for daring to call her on being…well… manipulative!

Here comes the big predictable fake out…

“Teresa, you’re not the right person for me to live with.”

Long dramatic pause…Teresa wrings her hands and swoons…

“You’re the person that I can’t live without.”

Dropping to one knee, out comes the ring some producer purchased and slipped into Gerry’s pocket.

Teresa beams…

Gerry is wiping away tears…

Stay tuned for the big Golden Wedding set for January 4, 2024.

 

In the meantime, listen to: 48 Best Songs About Narcissists (with Playlist)

 

Grace Cooper (a nom de plume) left her long marriage a decade ago, and with it went all sense of her identity—but not for long. Now 67, she has begun chronicling her tales of looking for love in all the wrong places, and unexpectedly finding herself.