“GOD BLESS technology,” replied a friend yesterday to a FB post. Although I have cursed it countless times in the past, right now I have to agree. Last night I participated in an online happy hour with four girlfriends; tomorrow, I’m doing a Pilates class with my instructor via the same Zoom platform we used for cocktails. One of the ways much-needed surgical masks can be manufactured is through 3-D printing. Michael Ondaatje couldn’t appear in person at Pittsburgh’s Carnegie Hall, but you could join his lecture on his newest book, Warlight, virtually. Et cetera, et cetera, et cetera.
Unfortunately, there’s no magical technological wand we can wave over graying roots. Because stay-at-home orders are likely to stay in place for a while, those of us whom white or gray hair leaves looking washed out are either resigned to that or in search of solutions. According to Jeremy Buchanan of DC’s Salon One80, women with olive complexions and women of color can carry off steel gray or white the best, but if you have pink or yellow tones in your skin, it’s not a good way to go. Keeping your color look fresh as long as possible means not washing your hair too much. And when you do, use a sulfate-free shampoo.
Admittedly in these uncertain, troubled times, it’s kind of petty to be worrying about your hair looking lousy. On the other hand, it’s one of those things you have some control over. So, in that spirit, here are some suggestions for root concealers—sprays, powders, a crayon and a color mask—that could help camouflage those wiry grays.
—Janet Kelly
LEFT: Madison Reed products get a lot of advertising love. Their Root Touch Up ($30, Ulta), which is available in five colors, covers roots with a fine, brush-on powder. The coverage is supposed to stay put until your next shampoo and is rain- and pillow-proof. CENTER: Besides temporarily covering gray, Rita Hazan’s Root Concealer Touch-Up Spray ($25, Sephora, which is waiving shipping fees ’til April 3 with code FREESHIP) also covers thinning hair and areas of hair loss. The nozzle seems like it would make applying it to the right spots pretty easy. Three of the five colors it’s available in are sold out on Sephora’s website. RIGHT: My much-missed colorist, the aforementioned Jeremy Buchanan, recommended Color Wow’s Root Cover Up ($34.50, Ulta) to me a few years ago. It’s kind of like eye shadow but slightly denser, and although I’m far from an expert in using it, does camouflage my gray without being sticky or oily. It’s available in eight colors, including platinum/light blonde and red.
FAR LEFT: Our former colleague, Washington Post design reporter extraordinaire Jura Koncius gives L’Oreal’s Magic Root Cover Up Gray Concealer Spray (available in seven shades, $10, Walgreens) the heads-up for in between color appointments. Jura is always impeccably groomed, so I’ll have what she’s having. NEAR LEFT: Oribe’s Airbrush Root Touch-up Spray, which comes in five colors ($32, Dermstore), contains sun protection and rice starch which absorbs oil like a dry shampoo and can freshen up your hair. NEAR RIGHT: This Moroccan Oil Color Depositing Mask (6.7 ounces, $28; one ounce, $7, Sephora) is not just for roots but an overall color product and doesn’t wash out in one shampoo, like root concealers. It comes in champagne, rose gold, aquamarine, platinum, hibiscus, cocoa and bordeaux. I’m tempted to try it. Maybe the one-ounce size. If I did—try it—who would see it anyway except my husband, who when I asked if he noticed anything different, would probably say no. Then again, my new friends on Zoom would definitely take notice. FAR RIGHT: Because it’s a crayon, you can easily color your roots or add an unexpected pop of lilac. Bumble And Bumble’s Bb. Color Stick ($26, Sephora) is available in dark blonde, brown and black and in limited quantities on Bumble and Bumble in shocking pink, marine, lilac and light pink. Don’t worry, it will wash out in one shampoo.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
THE CURRENT coronavirus overtaking the globe has certainly put a damper on ordinary life. Thanks to the media, which I have been ingesting nonstop, thoughts of overcrowded hospitals lacking respirators and nurses fill my head, making it impossible to summon up a good mood. And last Saturday night I gave my last dinner party for the foreseeable future, if I even have a future. (At times like this I envy cats.)
One of the two invited guests—let’s call her The Spreader—had the temerity to arrive blatantly sick. Assessing her condition at the door I was naturally alarmed and gave her the third degree, but she swore it was just a common cold with an accompanying cough, not the dreaded virus. So when she called me yesterday to say that someone present at a meeting she attended late last week was diagnosed with Covid-19, prompting her to get herself tested, I was dismayed, depressed and angry. Now I am simply waiting to die. This is a silly reaction on my part I know, yet there it is.
As for the bright side: My husband, grasping at straws which as we all know are pretty hard to find these days, posited that if The Spreader turns out to be positive, he and I will rightfully be tested, and if we get sick this early in the pandemic, at least here in Maine, we likely will be able to score a couple of respirators in the hospital.
THE LONGER ONE LIVES, the greater one’s wisdom. Imagine how smart the world would be if older people were given a shred of the respect they deserve.
I am getting to the point where some of the things I deemed boring or silly when I was younger, busy earning a living, listening to acid rock and smoking pot, have become the crutches I use to support my crumbling interior. Prayer, meditation, yoga and that silly “Om” chant are effective tools for dispelling bad moods and extinguishing fear, both common situations we all experience every day and which are the root cause of every addiction: overeating, smoking, drugs, alcoholism, anxiety and depression. I include depression because I think it is addictive: the more depressed we allow ourselves to be the more depressed we become, deepening those ruts in our brains. And everyone knows, getting stuck in a rut is bad. You’ve got to work really hard to get out, and sometimes you might need to call for help.
Early this morning, feeling that tightening in my head that signals anxiety, I listened to a guided meditation on my cell phone by a psychologist and teacher of Western Buddhist practices named Tara Brach, whose podcasts are available for that very purpose. Sitting quietly, eyes closed, feeling safe, breathing in and out: Now that’s a good time! She even got me to put my palms together and say “Om,” along with the hundreds of people who were there with her in person.
Om has its own Wikipedia page, but roughly it means “the totality of sound, existence and consciousness.” Saying it aloud felt good. Much better in fact than hearing the bleak news of the day delivered by those silly morning news teams. I think I’ll try it again tomorrow.
GOT DISHPAN hands? Me, too. Because you’ve been maniacally washing your hands and/or applying hand sanitizer —if you can find any. And wiping down your kitchen counters and your phones with a disinfectant, no? As Covid-19 cases increase all over the country and a lot of the world, we can expect this routine cleansing to continue for a while. The downside is—well, you know—dry, chapped hands and cuticles.
We asked Ada Polla, CEO of skincare products company Alchimie Forever, for her advice on how to soothe and smooth our overwashed mitts: “There are two types of ingredients that can help with chapped hands,” says Polla. The first is “nourishing ingredients, such as moisturizers with oils (shea butter, cocoa butter, jojoba or vitamin E), ceramides or hyaluronic acid, that will help replenish the skin’s moisture levels.” The second is “occlusive ingredients—think of Vaseline-type products with paraffin-like ingredients to prevent moisture loss and coat the skin.”
When you wash your hands—especially if you wash them in hot water—you strip off natural oils that help keep your skin hydrated. For parched, scaly hands, you need to replace the moisture your thirsty skin is missing. And applying a lotion once a day isn’t enough. More frequent applications help the effects last longer, according to WebMd. To remind you, keep a tube or jar of your go-to moisturizer in your bathroom and on the kitchen sink. Put smaller sizes in your purse and on your desk. Remember to rub the cream or lotion over your cuticles and nails.
They’re not nearly as popular as toilet paper, but we noticed some of the hand creams we like below are already sold out on sites like Nordstrom and Walmart.
—Janet Kelly
FAR LEFT: Friends fawn over Gold Bond products. And the price is right for the brand’s Ultimate Intensive Healing Hand Cream (it’s $4.99 for 1.66 ounces, Walgreens). It’s luxury for less than $5, and you can buy it at most drugstores or supermarkets. NEAR LEFT: I don’t remember but I think my dermatologist gave me a tube of Sebamed’s Hydrating Hand and Nail Balm(2.6 ounces, $12.99, Amazon) gratis. My skin is on the sensitive side, and this doesn’t irritate it. I haven’t noticed much nail improvement—it contains keratin— but it could be because I don’t diligently apply it. NEAR RIGHT: This Supergoop! New Handscreen SPF 40 (6.76 ounces, $38, Dermstore, one ounce, $14) contains sea buckthorn, which reportedly helps with those nasty little brown spots and SPF that will help prevent them in the first place. FARRIGHT: I have to thank my niece Katarina, who lives in Berlin, for introducing me to Weleda products. She gave me a tube of Sea Buckthorn Hand Cream (1.7 ounces, $12.50, Amazon), which feels and smells so divine I have a hard time wresting it from my husband these days.
FAR LEFT: Elta MD’s So Silky Hand Crème ( 3 ounces, $19, Dermstore) contains a jackpot of good ingredients: ceramides, Vitamin E and jojoba, plus some titanium dioxide for sun protection. NEAR LEFT: I use Aquaphor’s Healing Ointment (7 ounces, $12.99, Ulta) as a multipurpose moisturizer. I slather it on (it’s petroleum based and on the thick side) my skin after a shower—when my skin is still wet—and on hands and nails before bedtime. NEAR RIGHT: I got this DC Aesthetics Intensive Hand Cream (contact the doctor’s office for price) as a freebie after a Juvederm treatment from Chevy Chase, Maryland, plastic surgeon Dr. Craig Dufresne. It contains vitamins E and B. What I like most is it absorbs easily into the skin but keeps your hands looking smooth and moist. FAR RIGHT: Alchimie Forever’s Dry Skin Balm (3.3 ounces, $25, use code SPRING20 for 20% off) is another multipurpose cream (with shea butter and jojoba) that soothes dry skin on hands, as well as those other areas prone to cracked skin—feet, elbows and knees.
FAR LEFT: It’s not specifically for hands but La Roche-Posay’s Lipikar Balm and Body Cream (6.76 ounces, $19 Dermstore) with shea butter and niacinamide, which my picky dermatologist likes, works anywhere you have extra-dry, itchy skin. NEAR LEFT: Hydro BoostHandGel Cream (3 ounces, $6.49, Ulta) from Neutrogena contains hyaluronic acid to boost moisture retention and is a good size for popping in your pocket or purse. NEAR RIGHT: Lanolips Hands All Over’s Rose Hand Cream Intense (1.76 ounces, $15, Violet Grey) is a combination of rose oil and lanolin to massage into hands, nails and feet. FAR RIGHT: The star ingredient in Ahava’s Dermud Intensive Hand Cream (3.4 ounces, $21.70, Skinstore) is Dead Sea mud that’s mixed with jojoba, aloe vera and calamine (for itchy skin). It’s pricey but it’s a super balm for very dry skin.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
IN THE BIG picture, nothing small matters. This translates into first obtaining and then maintaining a devil-may-care attitude about everything. Sadly that attitude is my weak suit; I worry about everything and always have, apparently because of an early childhood trauma. It doesn’t matter what trauma since everyone has one so everyone worries. Thus the overwhelming popularity of various addictions useful as buffers from painful memories.
These thoughts clogged my brain early this morning, and I do mean early. Eyes wide open at 2:30, I was consumed with doubt and fear over an upcoming 12-hour flight to Israel. Could I possibly have been sane when I agreed to such folly months ago? Surely not. Finally I left my bed and resigned myself to the new day, softening the blow with a handful of raspberries and a look at yesterday’s paper.
I had to read yesterday’s paper because here in Maine, the Monday papers including the Portland Press Herald and the Wall Street Journal (local edition printed here) will no longer be published due to some sort of printing problem or glitch or union decision or fill in the blank, who knows. All I know is we got a letter weeks ago stating that beginning on March 2, our Monday paper would be delivered on Tuesday.
At first I was incensed, thinking that’s crazy! Until I realized that the news is virtually the same every day, give or take: the November election, Trump, Biden, Bernie, and the coronavirus continuing to kill people.
So I have no right to be bothered about any little thing. I was going to recount how when my husband showed up at about six o’clock and blearily prepared a pot of coffee he forgot to replace the carafe under the spigot on the electric coffee pot after filling it with water and turning it on, then left the kitchen for just long enough for me to enter and find a decent quantity of hot brown liquid pooling on the kitchen counter and dripping down the front of the cabinets onto the floor and clean up the mess. Many paper towels were involved and so in some small way our planet was harmed. But in light of the big picture, I guess it’s too insignificant to mention.
A FEW YEARS ago sleeves got so long and floaty that drinking a cup of coffee or eating anything became a challenge. Not practical for mere mortals without a personal dry cleaning/laundry service. In the past couple of seasons, designers have been pushing up sleeves to create rounded shapes with broad shoulders, flashing back to the ’80s (the voluminous sleeves on Princess Diana’s wedding gown and on “Dynasty’s” Alexis Carrington ) or to the days of leg-of-mutton sleeves.
On the spring/summer 2020 runways, as well as on the Golden Globes’ red carpet (Olivia Colman, Cate Blanchett, Jodie Comer, Beyoncé), dramatic sleeves in a variety of fabrics, bright colors and prints were a runaway hit. High collars, smocking and ruffles also got some catwalk love this spring and will continue going strong this fall.
Big sleeves, both feminine and powerful, are not just for the runway or the red carpet. They also translate to the street. It’s a flattering silhouette for lots of body types, for anyone from Sarah Jessica Parker to Leslie Jones. Nailing the look is a matter of proportion. To balance a puffy sleeve on a blouse, look for a close-to-the-body fit on top and pair with tailored or longer, wide-leg trousers or a slightly A-line midi skirt.
Below, our picks for big sleeves that haven’t looked as fresh for decades.
—Janet Kelly
LEFT: Ulla Johnson’s Rue Printed Cotton Top ($375, Moda Operandi), made from a cotton-blend fabric in a floral-abstract print, is not too precious to wear with jeans but would also pair nicely with a flowy midi skirt for more formal occasions. RIGHT: The puffy sleeves and pleating on the shoulders and cuffs on this Denim Shirt ($79.99, Mango) set it apart from the usual suspects.
LEFT: Banana Republic’s Relaxed Puff-Sleeve Shirt ($74.50, Goop) updates the white blouse with details like a banded collar, back yoke and sleeves that pouf out from the cuffs. Wear it with a pleated midi skirt. RIGHT: 525 America’s cropped Cable Knit Sweater ($98, Shopbop) with defined shoulders gets the nod for the perfect wear-right-now item. It’s a modern take on the leg-of-mutton sleeve.
LEFT: English Factory‘s pretty pink Short Puff-Sleeve Sweater ($70, limited availability, Shopbop) will brighten your wan winter complexion, maybe even your mood, plus it packs plenty of style for a wallet-friendly price. RIGHT: Leopard spots ground the fluttering silhouette and billowy sleeves of this sheer GanniPleat Printed Georgette Blouse ($170, Nordstrom) with subtle ruffles at the collar and cuffs.
LEFT: Think spring in a girly, ruffled Ruched Sleeve Top from Moon River ($65, Shopbop) RIGHT: The eye-popping neon color, plus the voluminous sleeves and big bow on Dutch designer Lieselot Elzinga’s Tie-Neck Blouse ($407, Matches Fashion) will delight the fashion forward.
LEFT: White shirts are a wardrobe essential. We like the way this Keely Pintucked Blouse ($88, Anthropologie), with its combination of crisp pleats and a gently pouffy sleeve, spins the classic. RIGHT: J. Crew’s Tie-Back Top in Ditsy Eyelet ($74.99) hovers on the prissy side in white, which is why we prefer it in black. And when the weather warms, it would happily partner with white pants or jeans.
LEFT: We spotted this Puff-Sleeved Top ($125) in a Cos Store in Montreal. The silk/linen blend creates a light but voluminous silhouette. For a monochromatic, suiting effect, wear it with a pencil skirt in the same hue; it would also look smashing with slim pants in khaki. RIGHT: 525 America is known for their quality cotton sweaters, such as this Short Puff SleeveCotton Shaker Sweater (also available in white and pink, $88). Spring is only 10 days away.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
LATER TODAY I am getting Invisalign braces. To say I am not looking forward to it is an understatement of mammoth proportions. For the next year to year-and-a half I will wear plastic covers over my teeth requiring me to A, not eat while they are in place and B, brush and floss my teeth after eating anything while they are out. Also, they will likely be uncomfortable and I must wear them while I sleep. Lastly, they cost a small fortune. (Modesty prevents me from saying how much, but my husband and I could go on a six-week grand European tour instead.)
So I was dismayed when I confessed my apprehension earlier today to my son, who is 31 and unfamiliar with how to deal with the aged, having never had grandparents. He said, “Why are you getting braces? Aren’t you like 70 or something? And you’re already married, so why does it matter how you look?”
My answers are as follows:
1. My teeth are moving crazily, making flossing in certain areas nearly impossible.
2. I could live another 20 years, and the situation will only worsen over time.
3. My current husband could die and then it would matter how I look if I wanted to snag another one.
4. Regardless of how I am seen by the rest of the world, it’s me in the mirror each morning.
LEFT: Spring is tricky. March came in like a lamb this year. It might go out like a lion, who knows? Nevertheless, I could happily layer this Wool-Blend Oversize Blazer ($219, &Other Stories) under my down coat for the chilliest days, over a sweater or a hoodie when it’s milder. I prefer this light tan color to black, but it also comes in a sage color that’s tempting and an ivory. RIGHT: I’ve been searching for a necklace that will jazz up a black turtleneck or lie just right at my collarbone when I wear an open-neck shirt. This 18k gold-plate Alona Erin Necklace ($170, Need Supply) with pearly cabochon pendant could answer my quest.
LEFT: The price of one of Hermès’s 24 Rouge Hermès lipsticks—its first foray into cosmetics—will be $67 (available in satin and matte) a pop. Still, it’s the brand’s most attainable purchase—less than its $79 Twilly one-ounce bottle of perfume and lots less than a $10,000 Birkin bag. According to the Wall Street Journal, designers chose the colors from the Hermès library of 75,000 silk swatches and 900 leather shades. The lacquered metal color-blocked cases (refills are $42) use the same hardware as the brand’s bags and shut with a magnetic click. Also, no plastic! Wonder if you can test before you buy. Anyway, the lipsticks will be available tomorrow in Hermès boutiques, at Hermès online and at retailers, including Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s. CENTER: I’m due for another tube of Patchology’s Lip Service Gloss-to-Balm Treatment ($12 with code REFRESH on Dermstore until March 8). I first tried it several months ago when my BFF gave it to me as a little present. It delivers on the promise of soothing dry, chapped lips, plus it somehow makes my much-less-than-voluptuous lips look plumper. Maybe it’s the honey that’s responsible or the hyaluronic acid. Bonus: It tastes good. RIGHT: I’m not always a fan of fashion collaborations, but I do think Vans’ Sandy Liang Boyfriend Hoodie ($72, Need Supply) is pretty cute. The cozy fleece pullover hoodie is one of the results of a partnership between the sportswear brand and Liang (a New York designer with a cool-girl following). The eyelets and piercings on the edge of the hood toughen up the sweatshirt—in a good way.
ABOVE: I have many handbags. Some are too big to schlep around all the time, others too small to fit my necessaries (phone, glasses, lip gloss, wallet, keys). One that could be just right for most days is Clare V’s Midi Sac Bag ($300.90 with code SPRING, Shopbop). Because I’m partial to wearing neutral clothes, the eye-catching cherry-red leather works as a bright accent. That contrasting pink webbing crossbody strap ($65, Clare V) is additional, however.
—Janet Kelly
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
YEARS AGO I asked Relish DC boutique owner Nancy Pearlstein her advice on what to wear to an upcoming job interview. “A suit,” she said. (I wore one and got the job.)
She and my mother must have been communicating on the sly because that’s exactly what my mom would have counseled. Not counting the brief pantsuit moment when Hillary Clinton was running for president, though, suits have not been on anyone’s wish list for a while.
Then last September, Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler and other high-profile designers, including Plan C (founded by the daughter of long-time Marni head honcho Consuelo Castiglioni) and Paris-based label Gauchère, all showed suits on their spring 2020 runways—in neutrals as well as vivid colors. And department stores—Saks and Neiman’s—and online-only fashion sites Net a Porter and Matches Fashion began including the long-absent suit category on their clothing menu. We’ve also noticed news anchors—we’re looking at you, Norah O’Donnell—trading in their ubiquitous sheaths for form-fitting jackets and matching sleek pants.
And just like that, all things tailored and coordinated look right this season, and a suit makes a smart sartorial addition. Fresh updates include vests, cropped or long jackets, pleated, wide-leg or sleek pants, and, wait for it, Bermuda shorts.
It’s the perfect way to do one-step dressing, requiring minimum effort. Style yours with a turtleneck or men’s shirt or a half-zip knit. Add a high-neck blouse with flowing cuffs for evening wear or just wear a camisole under a jacket. And, by the way, it’s not a requirement to wear the jacket and pants/skirt together all the time. Mixing and matching permitted.
See our suitable suggestions below.
—Janet Kelly
LEFT: Carolina Castiglioni launched Plan C a few seasons ago. The jade green jacket and matching wide-leg pants (now available at Farfetch) are from her 2020 spring/summer runway show in Milan. / Photo/ Ivan Marianelli for NowFashion.
RIGHT: Shades of Pantone’s Color of the Year are a natural for spring, but we wouldn’t blame you for wanting to wear Vince’s oversize Boyfriend Blazer ($445) and pleated-waist Tapered Pants ($345) in hammered satin right this minute.
LEFT: J. Crew’sTweed Motorcycle Jacket ($138) and Pencil Skirt ($98) look new and fresh when combined with a denim work shirt underpinning.
CENTER: Helmut Lang’s cropped silk-wool blend Double-Breasted Blazer ($795) in a snazzy military style, paired with pleated Wrap Straight Pants ($695), make a fetching outfit for a dinner date.
RIGHT: Farrow’s relaxed-fitting wool-blend Bethany Heathered Suit Jacket ($178) with matching Suit Pant ($118) are a savvy shopping buy for mastering that “I have nothing to wear” transition period from now until spring.
RIGHT: Still a barometer for what’s fresh in fashion, Marc Jacobs sprinkled his spring catwalk with suits in bright greens, canary yellows and blues. /Photo / Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2020 Runway Show, New York.
LEFT: Veronica Beard made a case for the look of classic navy with her double-breasted, structured-shoulder Miller Dickey Jacket($645). Remember dickeys? The jacket comes with its own front placket with a hidden zipper. It makes a perfect marriage with the brand’s cropped, slim Lago Pants ($395) with a split at the hem. Wear with a kitten-heel mule.
RIGHT: Summer-weight wools and crisp poplin cotton take the formal out of suiting. So do long, loose Bermuda shorts at Gauchère’s 2020 spring runway show in Paris. /Photo /Gauchère.
LEFT: We’re loving lilac (and green), which we saw a lot of in the spring selections in Montreal‘s boutiques and department stores. Look long and lanky in Zara’s slouchy V-Neck Blazer with padded shoulders ($69) and matching High-Waisted Belted Pants ($49.90)
RIGHT: Not a suit, but Acne Studio’s midi Textured Fitted Pencil Skirt ($340) with micro pleats and ruffled hem paired with matching Textured Mock Neck Jumper ($340) is a fine substitute for one with its slimming, head-to-toe look.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
Because, in Clearly Crimson, I can sing a siren’s song.
Because, in Crystal Coral, I am never alone too long.
I can name the stars for Martin, wearing Starlit Pink.
Or speak my mind to Phillip, tell him what I think.
Because, in Lilac Rose, I do not hide in bed;
I can out-dazzle anybody, wearing All Star Red.
Because, in Silvery Mauve, I lay claim to copper skies;
Because in Copperglaze Brown, I never apologize.
At night, by Naked Bronze Glow, I hear my lover sing
Inside his purple kisses, I drink Wine With Everything.
In the August of my life I still savor Cherries In The Snow
And treasure the girlish heart that compels me to do so.
I am Boldness, Beauty, Devil & Charmer
In a beeswax, coal tar & fragrance armor.
—Judith R. Robinson
Poet, painter, fiction writer, teacher and editor, Judy is listed in the Directory of American Poets and Writers. She has published 75-plus poems, five poetry collections, one fiction collection and one novel. Her newest collection, “Carousel” (Lummox Press), was published in January 2017. Her last gallery exhibit, “The Numbers Keep Changing,” was on view at The Pittsburgh Holocaust Center last spring. Her next show will be at a Pittsburgh cafe this coming May. For more information: www.judithrrobinson.com or alongtheserivers@gmail.com.
This cropped, tweedy Logan Jacket ($670, Shopbop) with drawstring hem from Budapest brand Nanushka would make an ideal transition-to-spring piece not only for late February, March and April but also for next fall. The dropped shoulders remind me of a jacket I used to borrow from my mom (she of impeccable taste).
Balmier temps than usual have got us all thinking spring is around the corner. Maybe. Whatever the weather may bring, a good-looking pair of black jeans can go the distance from dressy to dressed down depending on what you wear with it. And if they can make my rear look slightly, er, lifted, well, I’m in. Paige’s Sarah Slim Jeans are $219 from Shopbop.
This Court Sneaker ($98, Everlane) in white, tipped with forest green on the heel, looks a lot like the Stan Smith Adidas pair designer Phoebe Philo wore to one of her Celine runway shows. In the spirit of I’ll have what she’s having but for less. Available in six other colors/combos.
The color blue of Vince’s Cashmere Raglan Hoodie ($395, Shopbop) would take the gray—and my misery—out of the dampest and coldest February day.
I’m sorely tempted by this Quilted Barn Jacket ($129, Nordstrom). Let me count the whys: the color, zipper and snap closure for warmth, textured fabric and a nipped-in waist you don’t often see in padded coats and jackets.
Rothy’sMary Jane Flat ($155), available in rose, black, leopard, red and navy blue, is eco-friendly and cold water-washable, too. My friends swear they’re comfortable. I’m a sucker for Mary Janes, and how cute that is that bow.
Photo Valentino.
White shirts are a staple, right? At Valentino, they’re more like a statement. If I had a spare couple of thousand bucks, I’d head to the design house’s New York City boutique (693 Fifth Avenue) next week for the Le Blanc pop-up. That’s where I could choose a white poplin cotton shirt—in one of two styles—and then customize it with the aid of an expert seamstress. Say I wanted some ruffles on the cuffs, a bib detail on the front or a frothy feathery trim on the sleeves. Imagine that. I have until Feb. 28 to decide.
—Janet Kelly
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
Mrs. W.H. (Elinor) Klapp, Brooch, c. 1895-1914. Carved moonstone, silver or platinum. Collection of the Bronson Family. Photograph by Firestone and Parson.
A QUIET, otherworldly sense fills the low-lit galleries devoted to the Frick Pittsburgh’s new exhibit, “Maker & Muse: Women and Early Twentieth Century Art Jewelry” (now through May 10). The 200-plus pieces in the show, including luminous moonstone necklaces and hair combs and lustrous enamel brooches and tiaras, twinkle in their glass cases, eliciting oohs and ahs of admiration for their beauty and craftsmanship.
Covering the period from 1880 to 1930, with the height of production between 1890 and 1910, the exhibit explores how women influenced a new style of jewelry as muses to male designers and for the first time, as designers themselves. (About 30 percent of the work in the show was made by women.)
Handcrafted and untraditional, “art jewelry” was a response to growing industrialization at the turn of the century and the changing role of women, who were enjoying more freedom while lobbying for education reform and vying for the right to vote.
More freedom resulted in less restrictive clothing designs that could accommodate a more active lifestyle—playing tennis, pursuing secondary education. That clothing called for a new kind of jewelry, which Frick chief curator and director of collections, Sarah Hall, called “a combination of bling and political ideals.”
To produce this jewelry’s unique and innovative look, in addition and often instead of conventional (and expensive) diamonds and gold, artists worked in enamel and silver and with semi-precious gemstones, such as lapis lazuli, moonstone, obsidian and aquamarine.
Organized by a selection of pieces from five countries—France, Austria, Germany, Great Britain and the United States—the exhibition offers a glimpse into the social, political and economic climate in which it was created.
In his sinuous Art Nouveau gilt bronze lamp, Raoul François Larche ( 1860-1912) captures the exuberance of the performances of American dancer and choreographer Loïe Fuller. / Photo by James Kelly.
Unknown Maker, Suffragist Colors Necklace , c. 1900 – 1920. Silver, amethyst, pearl, enamel. Private Collection. Photograph by J. Gold & Co.
That climate was much more woman-friendly in the Arts and Crafts Movement of Great Britain as well as in America’s—where it flourished in New York and Chicago—than in the Art Nouveau Movement in France and in Germany and Austria’s workshops.
The first case in the exhibit displays a pearl and aquamarine necklace (still in its original 1890 box), an amethyst and enamel pendant and a yellow gold pendant with moonstone, amethyst and pearl by Charlotte Newman in the late 1890s. She was the first woman to be recognized as a jeweler in her own right in England and, says Hall, “paved the way for a generation of women jewelry makers.”
While British art jewelry was intended to be available to anyone who wanted it, Art Nouveau jewelry in France was designed by men for a wealthy and/or theatrical clientele. Actress Sarah Bernhardt was both muse and patron to Alphonse Mucha (whom she discovered) and René Lalique, who designed her stage and personal jewelry in the mid-1890s.
One of the fun highlights of the show is a video of a dance created by Löie Fuller in the late 19th century that involved sweeping, swirling movements in a billowy silk gown. “Her mesmerizing dance was a clear real-life analogue to the curvaceous female forms echoed in Art Nouveau art and jewelry,” says Hall.
As was the case in France, in Germany and Austria, the artists were men. Many of the pieces, like Karl Rothmüller’s mermaid brooch, resembled those of Art Nouveau. Others, such as Josef Hoffman’s pin for the hostess of Vienna’s Cabaret Fledermaus, favored geometric lines.
In the United States, in New York, Louis Comfort Tiffany, the son of Tiffany & Co. founder, Charles Tiffany, embodied the arts and crafts aesthetic in his interest in nature and unusual gemstones. Two women—first Julia Munson and the Meta Overbeck—ran his jewelry workshop and were thought to be key designers.
Finally, Chicago was one of the most prolific centers of the arts and crafts movement in the U.S. The Kalo Shop, founded by Clara Barck Welles and five fellow graduates of the Art Institute of Chicago, focused on objects made of silver. She established a school and went on to teach and employ many women designers and encourage their entrepreneurship. Another Chicagoan, Elinor Klapp, pioneered the use of Native American stones in mounts of old silver and gold. (See the photo of her carved moonstone and silver brooch above). Her son, who co-founded House Beautiful magazine in 1896, often featured her jewelry.
—Janet Kelly
Maker & Muse: Women and Early Twentieth Century Art is on display at the Frick Pittsburgh (7227 Reynolds Street, 412-371-0600) through May 10, 2020. The exhibit was organized by the Richard H. Driehaus Museum in Chicago.
Museum Hours: 10am to 5pm Tuesday through Thursday and Saturday and Sunday; 10am-9pm, Friday. Closed Monday.
Admission: Members: Free
Adults: $15
Seniors/Students/Military: $13
Youth 6 to 16: $8
Youth 5 and under: Free
Montreal in the middle of a snowstorm on Feb. 6 that dumped 15-plus inches on the city. / Photo by Janet Kelly.
Sculptor Jim Dine’s Twin 6′ Hearts (1999) in front of the city’s Museum of Fine Arts.
Left: Every bagel is hand rolled and boiled in a honey-water mixture and then baked in a wood-burning oven at the 24/7 St.-Viateur Bagel. Right: Schwartz’s is the oldest deli in Canada. Lines form out the door for the smoked meat sandwiches. / Photos by Janet Kelly.
Breakfast (e.g., fresh fruit, yogurt and house made granola with a floral flourish), served all day, grilled cheese panini and decadent croissants and pastries are the fare at foodie destination Olive & Gourmando in Old Montreal. / Photo by Janet Kelly.
The high-end Canadian department store Holt Renfrew Ogilvy not only offers the latest in designer clothing, but also a cadre of helpful salespeople. / Photos by Janet Kelly.
OUR WEEKEND in Montreal didn’t begin on an auspicious note. The flight from Pittsburgh was delayed by an hour because of weather at the Trudeau airport, which was limiting incoming flights. Not exactly what a jittery flyer like me wants to hear. But an hour and change and several bumps later we arrived in Montreal and Uber-ed to meet friends for dinner at Gibby’s, in a 200-year-old building with stone walls and beamed ceilings. From our cozy table next to a fireplace, we are welcomed with crunchy dill pickles, bacon crumbles and fresh bread to graze on before our superb main course fish. In the meantime, a powdery snow falls and coats the city.
Visiting somewhere new is energizing and eye-opening but visiting a place where your friends live is even better. Speaking of energy, we were going to need a bundle for our heavily scheduled next two days. In fact, after dinner, we made a stop at the open-24-hours St.-Viateur Bagel bakery to watch as the bagel dough was rolled, boiled and then baked in a wood-burning oven. We bought four or five and then received a gratis bag of six!
Did I mention that it had snowed about eight inches overnight and that it was still coming down heavily the next morning when we left for the Museum of Fine Arts, a few blocks from our hotel? On exhibit was a comprehensive and fascinating probe into the life stories of six Egyptian mummies and a deep dive into the mummification process. Then we fast-forwarded to the 20th and 21st centuries to a small exhibit of the work of three American photographers (Cindy Sherman, Laurie Simmons and Rachel Harrison) exploring the history of how women are represented.
Some three hours later it was time for lunch. By now you’re getting the theme here –eating is an occasion in Montreal. Our friend braved the snow-clogged streets to drive us to the famous Schwartz’s Deli, where lines are to be expected and the signature dish is a smoked meat sandwich served on rye bread with yellow mustard. The meat is served by the fat content: lean, medium (our waitress suggested this one), medium-fat or fat. My sandwich looked like a pastrami or a corned beef sandwich that I would have eaten at a New York City deli, but far more flavorful.
Fortified, we headed for the 350-year-old, seven-floor, massive department store Hudson’s Bay, a former fur trading company that now owns Saks Fifth Avenue. We shopped for gifts to take back home on the accessories floor and gaped at the offerings on the cosmetics floor, which extends a city block. As we browsed we kept the exchange rate in mind, calculating what the Canadian dollar price would translate into U.S. currency. (One Canadian dollar equals 75 cents). The amount of merchandise was staggering but so was the gracious service we received from salespeople. “You’d like a bigger box for that gift you’re buying? Let me find you one.” Or, “I can tell you what the price is in U.S. dollars.”
Dinner that evening was at quintessential French bistro L’Express, a piece of Paris in Montreal. Onion soup, steak frites, foie gras and poached salmon draw a crowd of Montrealers whom a little snow—15 inches or more—could not deter. Our own city would have been at a standstill.
By the following day the efficient, huge snow plows (we noticed a least a dozen in a row) had cleared the streets and smaller machines had made sidewalks passable. But the high temperature was predicted to be a chilly 6 degrees F. Indoor options were required. My friends indulged me with a trip to the high-end store Holt Renfrew and Ogilvy, where we received the same treatment we had the previous day at “The Bay.” Nobody hovered over us as we oohed over the jackets, pleated skirts and sweaters in bright greens and pinks, chartreuse, lilac and pale blue from top designers (Dior, Valentino, Isabel Marant, Dries Van Noten, Kenzo, to name a few). No salesperson attitude in sight.
After a nourishing lunch at Old Montreal foodie destination Olive & Gourmando, we steeled our well-bundled selves for a walk through the historic district, chock-a-block with galleries and boutiques, which we selectively headed into when the cold was too much with us. Our final stop of the day was the Notre-Dame Basilica. We heard a short, basic lecture on the history of the Gothic Revival church and then walked around for a better view of its interiors—the rich, red, blue and gold hues, the star-studded midnight blue ceiling, intricate wood carvings, stained glass windows and massive organ.
Our two-day visit passed by in a flash. We didn’t take the subway nor did we see the splendor of Place des Arts, visit the contemporary arts museum or hear all that jazz the city is famous for. Or taste as many different types of croissants as we wanted to. All reasons to return to this most hospitable city. Maybe next time, though, in summer, when there would be even more to love.
I FINALLY figured out what I should call this blog. It came to me last night while I was watching a Netflix offering entitled “Jerry Before Seinfeld.” The title is self-evident, and the show was very funny, with lots of clips from Jerry’s childhood and some of his early appearances. But mostly it was him as he is today, hearkening back to his start in show business. It was a good time.
Still, some things bothered me. One in particular was how much he mocked his aging parents who live in Florida. This is of course standard fare for any comic, especially the younger ones. They make fun of old people and get lots of laughs form their young audiences. Jerry, no spring chicken himself at 65, comes down pretty hard on his father and his golf cronies at the retirement village. There’s the usual stuff about sagging bodies and failing memory, and how his mother can’t see very well but she still drives so he installed a cataract lens windshield in her car. (Ha ha.)
These days comics— or anyone —can’t say a whole lot of words, like moron or bimbo, but they can say geezer, codger, coot, granny and old fogey without even a slap on the wrist. It’s odd, since anyone who is smart enough to live a healthy life and attentive enough to avoid debilitating accidents will eventually become old as well, so you’d think that the elderly would be deserving of a high-five from everyone else.
This ’70s-inspired Collection Ribbed Cashmere Half-Zip Sweater ($298, J. Crew) has the look of a hoodie without the actual hood. It’s also available in gray, but the almond shade looks fresh to us. I’d pair it with the pleated black midi skirt below, as well as straight-leg jeans.
Midi pleated skirts are flowing all over town, some in glossy metallic, others in leather. This synthetic-blend, A-line Pleated Skirt (lined) has a flirty, flattering swish (Massimo Dutti, $110) that we can’t resist.
I know this lightweight quilted nylon Medium Metro Tote ($235, Nordstrom) with removable zip-top pouch and pockets galore would pack my life’s necessities and then some. And the shiny metallic hue ups the appeal for me.
Gas Bijoux’s silver-plate Cobra Bracelet (with Swarovski crystal eyes) wraps a wrist with imagination without weighing it down. It’s $218 at Farfetch.
I’m loving the look of slouchy boots right now, especially in black suede. That it’s waterproof—and on sale—practically seals the deal for me on Blondo’s Tarrah Boot ($114.99, Nordstrom). If it’s possible to tackle the elements elegantly, this looks like the boot to do it in.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
MY VALENTINE’S DAYS are mostly my fantasies—dinner by the fire—boeuf bourguignon— a bouquet of French tulips scenting the room and decadent Belgian chocolate truffles for dessert. Never happens. The closest I got was a reservation for dinner and an overnight at the Inn at Little Washington, except I got the flu and had to cancel.
The thing about Valentine’s Day, though, is that it has morphed from giving gifts to romantic partners to doing something sweet for friends (Galentine’s Day), neighbors, even pets. It’s become an everybody-is-included holiday that celebrates different kinds of affection.
In these deeply divided times we live in, the message this February 14: Be kind to others—and to yourself.
—Janet Kelly
Below, small and larger tokens of affection:
LEFT: Got a glass-half-empty friend? Send her a message to look on the rosy side with John Derian’s decoupage, handblown glass dish ($95). ICYMI: A New York Times article reported that “recent long-term studies linked greater optimism to a lower risk of developing cardiovascular disease,” as well as improving longevity. RIGHT: Kaja’s Heart Melter Lip Gloss Stick ($17, Sephora) combines a hint of color, the shine of a gloss and the benefits of a balm (infused with argan and plum seed oils). The heart-shaped applicator fits in the Cupid’s bow. Wish yourself a Happy Valentine’s Day.
ABOVE: Surprise your favorite pizza lover with a heart-shaped pie. From February 11 to 16, California Pizza Kitchen will make any of its pizzas (almost any, only those with a thin crust) into a heart free of cost. Beginning Feb. 12, they’re also offering a “Sweet Deal for Two,” which includes one appetizer, two entrées and a dessert for $35.
LEFT: This made-in-Portugal Love Soap ($28) is scented like fresh lotus (which represents love and compassion in some Eastern cultures). Packaged in a handmade wooden box, it makes a lovely little something for someone special. RIGHT: Remind someone you love to take their vitamins, etc., with this pretty-in-pink Pill Organizer ($6, Urban Outfitters). The heart-shaped container divides into four compartments to store all vitamins, prescriptions, etc.
ABOVE: Kate Spade’s 3d Heart Crossbody (available in hot chili, shown, and pink rococo, $298) lets you wear your heart on your shoulder. Constructed of Italian leather with a suede lining, it zips all the away around. Prefer to use as a clutch? Slip the chain inside.
LEFT: Heaven scent for a lavender lover. This Lavender Heart Wreath ($59.95) sends love all year round. RIGHT: Accent a Valentine’s Day dinner—or any other— with this practical, powder-coated aluminum Red Valentine Heart Trivet ($16.95). It protects tables and countertops from hot pans, and foam feet prevent scratches.
ABOVE: Who do you love? Your pup! Your dog can chew to his heart’s content with this Red Heart Rope Dog Toy ($14, Terrain), which is kind of like doggie dental floss. Manufacturer Jax and Bones is devoted to the well-being of animals and donates a portion of its proceeds to rescue organizations.
LEFT: French women swear by facial massage. This Facial Sculptor ($58, Net a Porter) is made of rose quartz, a healing stone said to ease tension and anxiety and promote feelings of emotional well-being. Who couldn’t use that? RIGHT: This Heart Cleansing Sponge ($10, Terrain) could make your skin-products-obsessed pal actually get a little fun out of her exfoliating ritual.
ABOVE: We cheated a little on the shape here, but this Winged Heart 3D card ($13, Lovepop) says “You make my heart flutter.” Aw.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
I AM trying to like yoga. So I go at it again and again. After attending eight or ten classes over the last eight or ten years and finding the other students insufferably enlightened, I have recently taken to watching DVDs in the comfort of my own home. Currently I am using a program called 5 Day Fit Yoga that promises to “make every day matter” and “transform your mind and body.” Who doesn’t want that?
Filmed in Hawaii, the opening sequence shows a man named Rod Stryker, the only American to have earned the title of Yogiraj from another teacher named Mani Finger, which would have been a great name for one of Tony Soprano’s boys. Anyway, Rod appears shirtless and wearing tights, sitting on a big rock against a backdrop of fluffy white clouds, an azure sky, breaking waves and distant green mountains. The whole scene is very picturesque, and Rod seems like a nice enough fellow. Determined, I move the coffee table out of the way and plunk down my purple yoga mat, ready to do whatever Rod says in order to get “strong and centered.” After stretching this way and hugging his knees and looking towards the sky and crossing one leg over the other and then stretching that way, he starts with the breathing, and I start hating him.
Did you know that breathing in through one nostril and breathing out through both nostrils reduces stress and stimulates creativity and imagination? Me either. Time was I ran three or four miles a day and worked up a sweat. After doing that for 20 years I was diagnosed with an arthritic hip and told that continued running would land me in surgery. I replaced the running with thrice-weekly aerobics classes. Eventually more doctors said, “No impact, ever!” Now I’m busy closing off one nostril and breathing through the other. Just shoot me. Then shoot Rod.
Hotel Peter + Paul’s heavy mint-green doors, painted with the words “School House,” lead inside a former school building where most of the guest rooms are located.
Each guest room features an individual hue that shows up in gingham bed linen, curtains, lamp shades, upholstered chairs and bathroom wall tiles./ Photo by Hotel Peter + Paul.
Hotel interiors use bright, bold colours– yellow, blue and red–which are intended to mirror the ones of the religious paintings and tapestries./ Photo by Hotel Peter + Paul.
In the rectory’s bar area, yellow is contrasted by pops of red found in the leather seats of the wooden bar stools, and the table and ceiling lights. Note the tree-like form over the walls and ceiling. It’s made from the same material used in floats during the city’s annual festival Mardi Gras./ Photo by Hotel Peter + Paul.
The rectory’s courtyard area is a splendid place for a morning cafe au lait, or an afternoon or evening aperitif. / Photo by Hotel Peter + Paul.
The hotel comprises a Catholic church and rectory, and a schoolhouse and convent (see picture above), which were used up until the end of the 20th century./ Photo by Hotel Peter + Paul.
Located in the convent building, the cheekily named Mother Superior room is one of the hotel’s most luxurious. / Photo by Hotel Peter + Paul.
“WE’VE ONLY been open about 15 months, and we’ve won all sorts of accolades,” says Ms. E. (it’s the shortened version of a more complicated name, she says). The head of security, chief historian, and by the way, a former homicide detective, is giving us a tour of her workplace, Hotel Peter + Paul in New Orleans.
Most hotels don’t require a tour guide but Peter + Paul is not any hotel. Which is what piqued my interest when I was looking for a place to stay for a four-day getaway in the Big Easy.
Occupying a half city block among the bright pastel cottages in the residential Marigny neighborhood (between the French Quarter and the hip Bywater section), it’s a complex of four historic structures. The mid-nineteenth century Sts. Peter and Paul Catholic church and school, which ceased operating in the late 1990s, as well as a former convent and rectory, sat abandoned and deteriorating while developers debated what to do with the property. Until 2014. That’s when, Ms. E. informs us, local entrepreneur Natali Jordi bought the buildings for $2.5 million. With a further infusion of $25 million, she partnered with New Orleans architecture firm StudioWTA and NYC design company ASH to turn the property into a 71-room hotel. The idea was to preserve the existing layout as a reminder of the structure’s former use, leaving the cypress wood moldings, stained-glass windows, wainscoted corridors and marble fireplaces, while accommodating the needs of a modern hotel.
We stayed in the School House, the largest building, where 59 of the rooms (former classrooms, school cafeteria and theater) are located. Guest rooms are decorated in a specific color that repeats in gingham on the bed, curtains, upholstery and lamp shades. The shower tiles are in the same coordinating color. On our floor, the the rooms were in gold, the floor above us, green.
Each room is slightly different, but all the rooms are appointed with generously sized, hand-painted striped tile showers, antique furniture from Europe (Sweden, Italy and France) and Asia, along with pieces like the armoires/closets designed and constructed locally by regional craftspeople. Modern conveniences include complimentary wi-fi and crisp Bellino bed linens. Religious paintings and tapestries pepper the décor. I must say that the image of a saint about to have his head cut off made me avoid looking at it. The religious iconography extends to the wrought iron canopy framed bed with crosses on the corners and bottles of custom toiletries adorned with the hotel logo, which features a tiny cross. The theme continues on the door card that lets housekeeping know when to enter the room. On one side it read “Let Resting Guests Lie”; on the other, “Cleanliness is Next to Godliness.” Even the hotel website gets in on the act, saying that the buildings have “been carefully restored and repurposed for new congregants.”
Although our room was flooded with light on a sunny day, come nighttime, the lamps in the room did not provide enough to read by—and in one instance, to see. Our armoire was tucked into a unlit corner of the room. We had to request the hotel bring another lamp so we could change clothes in the evening. In a desperate attempt to read, we removed the lamp shades, which worked slightly better.
The other 12 rooms are in the convent and the rectory, where the Elysian restaurant, bar and small café are located. The day we arrived, we opted to have a drink in the cozy bar and eat dinner in the restaurant, where the food consists of small plates, mostly at $15 or less —with dishes like chicken leg confit and mussels escabeche. They also serve coffee in the morning, but for local color we headed to Who Dat Coffee for eggs and biscuits and the Orange Couch for strong coffee and scrumptious pastry. Had it been a tad warmer than 62 degrees or so, we would have sampled the handmade ice cream on offer in Sundae Best, an ice cream parlor in the former convent building, which housed the Marianite nuns who taught at the school.
The final stop on Ms. E.’s tour was the 9,450-square-foot decommissioned church with most of its original stained glass windows. It’s now used as a space to host events for locals and guests, such as weekly free yoga classes.
Thinking of heading to New Orleans for Mardi Gras or a subtropical break from dreary winter weather? See the Hotel Peter + Paul website for nitty gritty details on room reservations and such.