Fashion & Beauty

Another Peek at the Chemical Peel

December 1, 2024

Tags:

iStock

By Valerie Monroe

For nearly 16 years Valerie Monroe was the beauty director at O, The Oprah Magazine, where she wrote the popular “Ask Val” column. She now splits her time between Manhattan and Tokyo.

If you’re interested in feeling happier about your appearance—especially as you age—you might like reading what she has to say about it. For more of her philosophical and practical advice, subscribe for free to How Not to F*ck Up Your Face at valeriemonroe.substack.com.

Can’t get enough Valerie Monroe? There’s more at https://valeriemonroe.substack.com.

I DON’T KNOW if it’s a good or bad thing, but last summer on the broiling streets of New York City, I saw myself coming and going. By which I mean there was a robust squad of women, middle-aged and older, who appeared to be dressing out of my closet in my exact same clothes and shoes. Midi-length shift, Birkenstocks, Apple watch, sunglasses (or sunglasses).

Sometimes there was a ring or two; maybe a bracelet or a modest necklace. A number of these women said to me in passing they thought I looked nice. Thanks! Of course I do. I look just like you! On the one hand, it was kind of fun to feel part of a trend; on the other, am I not thinking hard enough about what I wear?

Either way, I feel fine about it, which has to do with a topic close to my overheated heart these days: self-acceptance.

I was recently reintroduced to a bevy of studies that demonstrate how profound self-acceptance can be on your emotional and physical health. For example, without self-acceptance, automatic negative thoughts increase when dealing with an illness. And someone with more self-acceptance has increased gray matter in the regions of the brain that help control emotions and stress. So a lack of self-acceptance can actually disrupt emotional control. It’s not for naught that I keep harping about this exercise: Learn to see yourself as a person and, along with self-acceptance, you’ll likely find compassion lurking in places you haven’t noticed before. Like in the mirror.

Have you seen this woman?

Q: I always read your blog and I am so grateful for the information. I’m considering a peel with a plastic surgeon, which I think takes off two layers of skin. Maybe it’s called a T peel? I am interested in any feedback and any risks. I am 68 and blonde. Thank you so much!

A: As often happens on the temperate, bustling boulevards of HNTFUYF, readers—thinking along similar lines for some reason I can’t identify—become curious about the same thing. (Remember chicken legs and turkey necks? A flurry of poultry-related questions, who knows why?) This time, chemical peels are in the air. Which is interesting, because peels haven’t been on my radar for a long time.

According to the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (JCAD), chemical peels are the third most commonly performed noninvasive cosmetic procedure in the US. There’s been a paradigm shift in recent years, with lasers largely supplanting deep peels. But superficial peels have simultaneously increased in popularity, mostly because they’re relatively mild, have minimal side effects, and generally cost less compared with laser treatments.

I think what your plastic surgeon has recommended, Dear Reader, is a TCA peel, which is indeed a deep peel and among the strongest available. Is it right for you? I asked dermatologist Whitney Bowe to share her expertise.

“I offer superficial chemical peels in my practice,” she said. “I find them to be especially beneficial for treating acne, improving skin tone and texture, and creating radiance when performed as a series of three to five peels every few weeks leading up to a big event.” Bowe says she also uses superficial peels to treat melasma, a stubborn pigment disorder that often requires a multimodal approach. Superficial peels have minimal downtime and a lower risk of complications as compared with deep peels, especially for patients with darker skin tones, she said.

Dermatologist Mona Gohara agrees. “Peels are a dermatologic staple. Great for evening out skin tone, adding radiance, helping with fine lines or deeper furrows in some instances, and they’re one of my favorite treatments for comedonal acne,” she said.

However!

“Over the last decade, I’ve largely replaced my use of medium and deep chemical peels with lasers and energy-based devices,” said Bowe. “These devices allow more precision and control, so I can more specifically target certain depths of the skin. My practice is primarily aesthetic and cosmetic, so my patients are interested in seeing the most dramatic impact with the lowest risk possible. From my experience, using these newer technologies allows for great results without much risk of infection or scarring, and with less downtime than is involved with deeper peels. They also allow me to customize the treatment, because I can adjust the laser or device to different wavelengths and intensities.”

Because Bowe is reiterating what’s reported in the JCAD, I wonder whether you should discuss with your physician why a deep peel is the preferred procedure for you rather than a laser treatment or series of treatments. Among the questions I’d ask:

  • What does the peel accomplish in terms of rejuvenating the skin?
  • Are the results variable depending on skin type and condition? What results might I, specifically, expect from the procedure?
  • Please explain the procedure in full: What chemicals are used, how long does the procedure take, and what might I expect to feel in terms of discomfort?
  • How long is the downtime and what does it entail? What follow-up care is required and for how long?
  • What are the risks involved? Is there any risk of scarring or hyper- or hypo-pigmentation?
  • Is there another treatment (with a laser, for example) that might give me comparable results with less or no downtime?

I’d ask these questions days before the procedure, so I could decide whether to go forward without feeling rushed. The clearer you are about your expectations, the happier you’ll be with the results—no matter which treatment you choose.



Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *