By Janet Kelly
EMMA STONE won an Oscar nod for best actress for her performance as Bella Baxter, a young woman brought back to life by an unorthodox scientist, in the film“Poor Things.” If she wins, those 15-inch-wide sleeves she wears should get at least an honorary mention for helping her through her journey of self-exploration.
Whether flouncy or fringed, puffed, leg-o-mutton, oversized, ruffled, even wing-like, sleeves have been making fashion statements—for years, even centuries. On spring 2024 runways they were sculptural like Sacai’s denim jacket, overly long (Rotate’s pink cardigan) or deliberately mismatched—as Gabriela Hearst’s asymmetric dress with a crêpe flute on one sleeve and leather puff on the other. Actress Carey Mulligan appeared on the November 2023 cover of Vogue in a Louis Vuitton 2024 resort collection gown with giant cream puff-like sleeves. In 2020, designers pushed up sleeves to create rounded shapes with broad shoulders (flashing back to the ’80s and the billowy sleeves of Princess Diana’s wedding gown and the exaggerated shoulders and big sleeves of “Dynasty’s” Alexis Carrington). Going back more than 100 years to the 1890s, leg-of-mutton sleeves doubled the width of the space occupied by the wearer in an era when there were growing demands for women’s emancipation.
Now at a time when women’s rights are increasingly threatened comes the blockbuster show “Statement Sleeves” (through Aug. 24, 2024) at New York City’s Fashion Institute of Technology. Featuring almost 80 pieces of its permanent collection from certain periods in history (1770s, 1830s, 1930s, for example), the exhibition demonstrates how sleeves can be empowering.
Exaggerated sleeves draw attention upward to the face of the person wearing them, and there’s a style for everyone in a range of prices. Moreover, they assert importance, attract attention and signal confidence. All good reasons why they keep coming back in style.
Here are some of our big-sleeve favorites from the current retail offerings:
From the ruffled high neck with oversize bow to the long puffed sleeves, elastic trims on the cuffs and waistband of Patou’s slightly cropped crêpe blouse expand its presence. The playfully proportioned lipstick red blouse is reduced from $760 to $532 at Mytheresa.
Without these detachable puff-sleeve cuffs, this ribbed knit pullover ($590, Neiman Marcus) would read very plain Jane. With them, it’s a different decorative story. They can also serve practical purposes: Contemporary designer Lucy Jones, featured in the FIT exhibit, created specially shaped and detachable sleeves intended for wheelchair users.
I think of CO as a less expensive version of The Row, selling similar “stealth wealth” classic looks. The label’s cotton jersey T-shirt gets a festive vibe thanks to a flurry of whimsical taffeta ruffles that make a statement out of sleeves. The tee sells for $595.
You don’t have to announce yourself. This cotton-blend puff-sleeve top, with a texture that reminds me a bit of bubble wrap, will ensure everyone notices. Also available in green, as well as black, it sells for $68 at Anthropologie. (Tibi is selling a similar sweater for $695.)
This lively print ruffle-sleeve blouse in all cotton with pink and ivory flowers on a hunter-green background is spring-ready even if the temp drops. The traditional button-down style gets a boost from three-quarter sleeves gathered with pin tucks and a curved hem. It sells for $128 at Tuckernuck.
With its wide and substantial puff sleeves, this Sady Top with elastic cuffs—o keep the sleeves in place—would have surely won Bella Baxter’s approval. Made of 97% cotton with a little stretch added, it sells for $298 at Shopbop. It’s also available in black from Alexis.
Make an entrance in Rotate’s begonia-pink brushed knit cardigan ($430, Farfetch) with a rosette appliqué and cropped hem. Long puffy sleeves and shoulder pads enlarge your presence.
It’s hard to tell from the photo, but with her splicing technique, Sacai Creative director Chitose Abe transforms a military flight jacket into a bomber with a blouson silhouette and curvaceous sleeves. It sells for $1,405 at Nordstrom.
Art-inspired blooms flower on this charmingly feminine Natura blouse, made from an airy linen-and-silk blend. Even the buttons are shaped to look like daisies. You can pair with its matching maxi or balance the blouse volume with slim white trousers. It sells for $750 at Net a Porter.
Stacy Bendet takes a page out of the Victorian playbook for this confection of a lace top with a cropped silhouette and fluttery long sleeves. For your next party. It sells for $465 at Alice + Olivia.
Voluminous raglan sleeves with buttoned cuffs—for modern-day buccaneers—and a large rosette appliqué at the shoulder distinguish this lavender blouse from & Other Stories. It’s out of stock currently, but this pink floral embroidered shirt with long raglan puff sleeves and fitted buttoned cuffs has some limited availability.
I was also going to mention not going sleeveless anymore. As a small person, as well, about the only top in my proportions is the one from Anthropology, which I actually will look for. But they’re all interesting.
As a woman who no longer goes sleeveless, everything here looks wonderful! Thanks!
A woman after my own heart.