Green Acre #1: In the Beginning, There Was Dirt . . .
The author’s “garden,” leading to the garage, circa 1983, when she and The Prince purchased their Capitol Hill house. COVER: The lush green that now envelops the same space, some 30-plus years later (complete with a charming new garage door). / Photos by Stephanie Cavanaugh..
THIS IS NOT a tutorial for gardeners, at least those sorts of gardeners who are organized and careful about watering and pH levels and plants that prefer acidic or alkaline soil, or who consider pruning, for god’s sake.
Fundamentally, I am very lazy, and would much prefer to direct gardeners to do this and that, not do it myself. But thirty-odd years ago my husband, The Prince, and I happened to buy a house, spitting distance from the Capitol, and the house happened to have an area behind it that could only be called potential.
Here is what was there: dirt. Not particularly good dirt either, just dirty dirt, not soft and turned and rich and lovely and squirming with fat liver-colored worms. It was gritty and dry and heavy with clods of clay.
There was also a stick that the guy who owned the house before us said was an apricot tree. When he left we found a naked GI Joe doll in the attic, with hair glued on in a strategic place, and a hand gun. There was a rare lack of dispute between My Prince and me about the disposition of the doll. The gun was more contentious, though it eventually went. I believe there was some manly Clint Eastwood make-my-day vision involved as the neighborhood was—well, let us just say, to put it calmly, 30-some years ago there were no fancy prams, nannies and $35-a-pound cheeses on Capitol Hill.
But that is neither here nor there.
On either side of the 15-by-30-foot plot of dirt were walls. On the right, between us and the alley, was a six-foot-high wooden fence, which is just high enough for children to pop up and down on some miscreant race or other, little jack-in-the-box faces grinning big-eyed at the steaks on the BBQ.
On the other side was a rough-textured block wall, also six feet, which was just high enough to hide the neighbor’s derelict car and clothesline. This was painted salmon, as was the garage, which brought up the rear and had actual charm, like a little brick cottage with two windows flanking the center door.
So we had walls and dirt and a stick and a straight, if a bit cracked, concrete walk that led from the back porch steps to the garage.
Oh yes, there were also some tufts of patchy grass-like stuff, like an adolescent beard without the zits, about which there is a story that will be told.
The Prince brought me a soil test kit, which I admired and stuck in my “potting shed,” a jumbled table under the porch. It’s still there under something, I’m sure. Then, as now, my philosophy is: If it grows fine, if it dies it’s an opportunity to plant something else.
Over a winter of daydreaming I developed a plan. Certainly not a plan based in any knowledge of gardening, which previously consisted of several pots of this and that on our apartment’s fire escape in Adams Morgan, and before that a collection of guacamole pits stuck with toothpicks and arranged on my New York apartment windowsill. There was also a hideous philodendron in bondage to a wooden post, but that’s another story.
Chez Cavanaugh some 30-plus years later. / Photo by Stephanie Cavanaugh.
I worked up my nerve by studying House & Garden, the endlessly amusing gardening columns of Henry Mitchell in the Washington Post (his books are still available on Amazon and make for a lovely read), and the insanely expensive White Flower Farm catalogue. So armed, I bravely set forth.
Along the ugly path I trompe-l’oeil-ed a brick walk with brick-colored stain and hung lace curtains in the garage windows. The Prince topped the walls with an extra three feet of trellis, which could arguably be called temporary plant supports should the gendarmes that enforced the wall-height code ever catch us going over the sanctioned six feet. And upon these walls would grow vines and various climbing things in splendid profusion.
Two flagstone patios were put in, one on either side of the stick that insisted it was a tree. One would be used for the round dining table that used to live on my parents’ terrace, the other would be set up with the white wicker sofa and chairs we found at a garage sale for a hundred bucks, the first of many coups. That this was the sunny side of the garden had yet to occur to me.
My planting decisions consisted of two words: I want. Some of these rank with my finest irreversible mistakes.
So it was that I observed a neighbor’s magnificent wisteria, perhaps 40 feet of twisting branches hung with what I liked to call “pendulous” of drop-dead purple sweetness across her garage roof, and I wanted one.
A few blocks away was a ridiculously floriferous yellow rose that scaled a two-story wall, splayed out to clamber along a second-floor railing. I wanted one, or something similar but in pink.
And the honeysuckle that draped a wall on Independence Avenue, I wanted that too. Is there any other plant that so brilliantly announces that it’s spring?
So the wisteria went in the far right corner, where I imagined it draping fabulously across the garage roof to meet a climbing Queen Elizabeth rose on the left. The pale pink rose blossoms would be trained (hoo ha) like a frippily scented umbrella above the dining table. I could pass out at the memory of this thought.
Along the side walls I planted ivy, which I figured would grow thick and fast for a splendid background. And overplanted a honeysuckle, dead center on the alley side, which would tendril along toward the wisteria.
And good lord. I’m hyperventilating.
The garden “bed” or “border”—I use quotes here solely to indicate how delusional I was— would be planted mainly with annuals, since I have absolutely no patience and needed to finish Wonderland the first summer, since in a year or three surely we’d move into something a bit bigger. To this I say again, hoo ha.
I smashed away at the hard-packed soil and dug in a patch of lily bulbs, because I wanted them. Other than they, Eastern Market provided flats of fairy-colored cosmos and frilly cleome, fringes of white alyssum along the edges and masses of zinnias and dahlias. A psychedelic blather of color and texture that needed only a dusting of glitter to resemble a birthday card for a 5-year-old girl. My favorite sort of birthday card, by the way.
I had no space to waste on vegetables, which were easily found at the market.
It’s amazing how well annuals can do growing out of their itty bitty plugs of soil. That you can get an entire season’s growth from so little is simply extraordinary.
If you continue to plant those little plugs every summer for 30 years or so you’ll find you’ve absolutely inadvertently created rich and friable soil out of hard-packed dirt.
And sticks that are said to be apricot trees do grow, eventually. One spring day it will tickle the second-story roof and burst into white blossoms that will in turn drop away to reveal little nubbins that grow round and apricot-colored and continue to fatten and then fall, since there’s no way to pick them, and that rot and drop on your head and squish underfoot, bloated with maggots, and befoul your life until the damn thing up and dies, thank god.
But that’s another story.
—Stephanie Cavanaugh
Next week in Green Acre, Gardener Cavanaugh will discuss the demise of the apricot and what happens when it is replaced with a kwanzan cherry. Hint, a very brief thrill. Stephanie is currently at work on a book about life in a small city garden.
Mother of the Bride Chronicles, Part III: Whither the Wonder Bra
I’M JUST GOING OUT to buy a bra. So why do I feel like I’m headed for a colonoscopy?
Being firmly, though not so much anymore, of the braless generation, I am not totally unfamiliar with undergarments. But the only bra I possess of the non-sports variety (a modest concession to time and gravity) is a hot pink push-up number purchased 20 years ago.
It’s in pristine condition but just won’t suit my Mother of the Bride Dress, a black gown with a rhinestone doodad closing the faux wrap front. It’s a heavyweight jersey and as close as I could get to pajamas.
While The Bride breathed a sigh of relief that I selected something other than black pants, she pointed out that the visible combination of back lines from my ancient bra and the top edge of the essential Spanx just would not do, even if I spent the evening with my back against the wall.
How can this be?! I have no back fat! Whereforth do I bulge? While my thighs and midsection might be well-larded, I have a fine back, or so I’m told by my princely husband. I don’t spend much time looking at it so I gratefully take his word.
But, apparently, if the poitrine, as they so glamorously call it in French, is not hoisted, I look like a Renaissance painting of a mother in waiting. You know the ones, with the hands demurely clasped above the swollen belly–just add jowls, and a scowl.
My friend Kathleen swears that a proper brassiere is a life-altering experience. Make it one of those body-shapers, as they’re so coyly called (a girdle? Heaven forbid!) and the abdominal swelling will be magically diminished as my breasts proudly rise. Clothing will hang sveltely and line-free. I will be magnificent.
So we are off to Nordstrom at Tysons Corner, which has, Kathleen says, the mother lode of foundation garments. A storage room so vast, she assures me, that various hoists and compression agents are stacked floor to ceiling–she caught a glimpse of it one day when the door was left ajar.
Alas, Nordstrom disappoints. While there are lovely, lacy, dainty items in abundance, the selection for the (oh lord) matron is lacking.
Now, let’s be perfectly clear: I am not fat. I am, in fact, still several sizes below the Average American Woman. But getting into the available body-shapers was like stuffing a sausage casing. How are they supposed to get on, anyway? I tried pulling one over my head and my arms were jammed into my ears. A full-length number got stuck between my knees and my hips.
Two gorgeous bustiers were a total bust, even with a foot-on-the-rear maneuver by Kathleen trying to get the little hooks latched. Even if it fitted I’d require a lady’s maid.
By then, I was beyond shame. Kathleen and the saleswoman were no longer speaking to me; they consulted each other as they stripped one thing off and pulled on another, then headed off for larger sizes. Larger Sizes!
On I struggled, staring at the mirror in misery, pushing this bit of flab here, that bit there, and then noticing in horror the sign on the wall informing me that Nordstrom’s staff monitored the dressing rooms. So I sat in a corner, and pondered my mismatched socks.
Who are these things made for? Anyone who can tug one on can’t possibly need it.
And the ones that fitted me? They looked like something my Aunt Ruthie used to fold her pendulous boobs into in the cabana dressing room.
You want mortification? I thought Nordstrom prided itself on its broad array of sizes. I guess that’s just the shoes.
Kathleen finally arrived with a pretty lace thing that would do the job if it were only a bit bigger, and they can order it and I can try it at home, if I can flag someone down in the street to assist with the hooks . . . so I do, and consider myself done.
But I’m not! Macy’s is next. Kathleen is indefatigable in this quest. If she hadn’t towed me out here, I’d have left an hour and a half ago.
Macy’s is, in fact, good! Almost immediately I see something that resembles an armored black tank top with a built-in chest. It goes on, and is not even the largest available size, which could be its greatest selling point besides being 20 percent off. I’m willing to instantly whip out my credit card, though Kathleen insisted I sit and bend and hop around like I’m dancing to make sure it didn’t make a gradual creep up my torso.
It didn’t.
I now almost have two undergarments, but since I’m going on a diet in the morning I’m not removing any tags.
Mother of the Bride Chronicles, Part II, In Which We Try a Four-Minute Facelift
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I feel like my face is sucking a lemon.
Per instructions, I’ve pumped two squirts of Allurica Clinical Strength 4 Minute Facelift onto my fingertips and rubbed it in vigorously from chin to nose, then pumped another two to cover my forehead and scowl lines.
Now I’m to sit still and wait for it to completely set and magically lift my face.
Mindy Miller Berg, my pusher, says, “it’s a temporary fix, but there’s nothing like it for special occasions; when you’re going out to dinner or being photographed.”
Special occasion.
Dinner.
Photographs.
Check, check, check . . .
Sounds like a wedding, which I just happen to have coming up, my daughter’s, in fact. On April 18. And, oh man, do I need work.
If Mindy’s name is familiar, by the way, the 51-year-old New Jersey-based marketing pro, editor, stand-up comedian and sometime photographer underwent a physical and emotional overhaul courtesy of “Today” show nutritionist Joy Bauer and her Get Fit Club last year.
Before and after with Allurica.
Mindy tripped across Allurica when a friend asked her to take before and after photos at a conference, and watched as one after another guest slapped on the product and sat in front of the camera. “I finally got up my gumption and tried it. I said, Holy crap! I don’t buy into hype but . . . ”
That’s four minutes of typing, excuse me while I go check my face.
Well, how interesting! The marionette lines that have etched themselves from the corners of my mouth to my chin are gone. My forehead is, I think, 50 percent smoother.
Since Mindy cautioned me not to use anything too heavy or oily, I can now put on moisturizer, BB cream, a little bronzer, mascara, lipstick and, hey . . .
I look a tad tighter, but not plasticized. Better, though not incredible. I could be deluding myself.
Let’s just go and ask my husband’s opinion, although this is frequently a mistake.
Sidling bravely into his office I say, “Honey, does my face look any different?”
“Than what?” He says, looking up from the paperwork he was shuffling about on his desk.
“Than it did yesterday.”
“You’re wearing makeup.”
“It’s not the makeup.”
“I’m not supposed to notice the lipstick?”
“No.”
“This is a little tricky,” he says warily, suspecting a trap.
“Just be honest. Do you see anything different?”
“You don’t usually have lipstick on in the morning.”
“It’s not the lipstick.”
He studies me in a way he hasn’t studied me in years and says: “You did something to your eyebrows?”
“No, I didn’t do anything to my eyebrows. Do I look at all different?”
“You have color right here,” he says, rubbing the apples of his cheeks.
“Yeah, but it’s not the color.”
“Did you get implants?” (I’m surprised that he says this so calmly)
“No,” I say, resorting to hints. “Does my face look any tighter . . . or less lined?”
“Since yesterday?” A lengthy period of facial study ensues. “Well. Your cheeks look full and firm, is that what I’m supposed to notice?”
“Maybe. How about my forehead?”
“I see furrows in it.”
“Hmmm, okay,” I say with, I guess, a hint of disappointment.
“Was I not supposed to see them?”
“How about my chin?”
“No, I don’t see anything; did I use to see something?”
I laugh a small, aha! laugh and return to my brow. “Do my forehead furrows look the same?”
Another studied pause: “Basically . . . you look less furrowed than you usually do. What is it, an overnight serum?” (He knows from serum since there are bottles of various brands falling off the bathroom shelf.)
“It’s a four-minute facelift.”
“My goodness,” he says. Which in retrospect is an oddly mild reply. Possibly he’s relieved. “So, how long does it last? Four minutes? Walking down the aisle takes longer than that. ” He laughs soundlessly, which for him is uproarious and always an unsettling sight, rather like viewing a silent movie.
Three hours later and the grooves below my mouth are reappearing, although my face still appears softer–like a smear of Old Hollywood Vaseline on the camera lens. Maybe I could make it through the wedding. Mindy says she sometimes reapplies Allurica to trouble spots a few times a day, but the longer she uses it the less she needs. “You don’t have a lot of time to rest in bitch face. Even though it’s temporary, it’s muscle memory.”
At $90 for a one-month supply, one would hope there was some incremental improvement. Well . . . Mindy says with regular use you retrain your face to–not scrunch so much. Used with Botox, she says, the smoothing effect of that powerful injectible, which usually lasts around three months, is strengthened and prolonged.
The Allurica Clinical Strength 4 Minute Facelift was developed by Gregory Kelly, who brought Dermasilk’s Five-Minute Facelift to market in 1994. Dermasilk is sold for $29.95 on Amazon, and has a 3.7 out of 5 star rating.
Is this four-minute version $61.05 better? I have no idea. Kelly was not available for comment.
Allurica is not yet available in the Washington area, and will be sold only by dermatologists and at spas (like a high-end Mary Kay or Avon). The company is so new that the web page is still in development, but more information and lots of before and after shots are available on Allurica’s Facebook page. And they are quite remarkable (which is how I got sucked into trying it).
“It’s truly revolutionary,” says Mindy, whose experiments with various face firmers border on the heroic. “Nothing else does what this does.”
Perhaps I just need better training, but the only lemon I want to be sucking is at the wedding, in a gin and tonic.
–Stephanie Cavanaugh
More Mother of the Bride struggles coming up soon (before the wedding!).
MASCARA? I’VE PLAYED WITH so many. High-end to low. But for maximum drama, I keep returning to the stuff in a cake–perhaps the only thing from the trendy-again ’70s that I can wear without looking ridiculous. My purple suede hot pants come immediately to mind.
A drip of water smudged around to make a nearly dry paste (spit works brilliantly too, but we won’t mention that), and there is nothing like cake mascara for creating the thickest lashes shy of falsies. Uppers and lowers.
It used to be easy to find, and so cheap! Maybelline had it in a little sliding drawer of a red case. A buck, maybe? Mary Quant was pricier but had the best brush–I still have it. Much like a baby-scaled toothbrush–if your baby has a particularly wide mouth. Tight bristles. Indestructible. Does 1968 qualify it as an antique?
Lancôme had one mascara with a little plastic comb on one side. I still have that too, though all of the plastic bits have broken off (how, I wonder? Was I cleaning the grout?).
Cake mascaras might be hard to exhume in stores, but they’re still easily findable online.
Longcils Boncza has been around for few decades. The Vermont Country Store has it for $39.95 plus shipping. It’s a tiny cake, though these things tend to last forever, so I guess that’s fair, to keep them in business. And it’s French, so add an immediate 50 percent markup. And they say it was a favorite of Marilyn Monroe’s (which goes to show just how far back this goes. MM would be pushing 90 this year).
Vintage Paula Dorf cake mascara, with brushes. / MyLittleBird photo.
Amazon has it too, but the Vermont Country Store is a trove of nearly forgotten treasures and far more fun. Tangee lipstick? Max Factor Pan Stick? White Shoulders Powder? They also have an assortment of flannel granny gowns, perfect for leafing through their website.
Though a bustier would be more appropriate attire for this mascara’s application. Marabou mules too, if you’ve got.
Internet marketer Makeup Mania has bars in black or brown for $8.50 from La Femme, which may or may not be French.
I haven’t tried either one of them, but the buyer reviews are positive.
Mine is from Paula Dorf, bought at Bluemercury in Georgetown at least 10 years ago. I don’t recall what it cost, maybe 15 bucks, but that doesn’t matter since it no longer exists except, perhaps, in a dusty corner of eBay. The .21 oz cake looks to have another 20 years’ worth of use. It came with a feathery brush that was for crap. But deploy my Mary Quant relic and, Hello, Twiggy!
Mother-of-the-Bride Chronicles, Part 1: Chasing My Chins
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SOME DAYS I WISH bearded women were in. Today is one of them. I once vastly improved a chinless ex by talking him into some pretty lush whiskers. Spotting him recently at a funeral, I noticed he’s still sporting a beard 40 years later. Does his wife know what’s under there?
Meanwhile, I resemble a basset hound in a turtleneck, a situation that is reaching crisis level as my daughter’s April wedding approaches.
To paraphrase Catherine Deneuve, At some point you have to choose between your fanny and your face. Sadly, what I have are really good ankles, which haven’t been a significant lure since about 1915.
While kvetching about my falling face, I’ve done virtually nothing but study possible solutions for the past 30 years. Perhaps it’s the German in me, this reluctance to Get Serious About My Skin. As if I should be able to keep my chin up entirely through force of will.
Oh, how stupid are the young. Thirty years ago I looked like a nymph. A nymph with nearly undetectable scowl lines, what they call inverted commas between my eyes, no doubt formed from whining about looking older.
That’s when a similarly tetched girlfriend and I started a weekly radio talk show called “A New Wrinkle,” to discuss what to do about our nonexistent problems: Retin-A and Botox and such, then cutting edge. Fortunately, or not, the station (the only one that would host us) had such a weak signal that my husband had to sit in the car in their parking lot to listen. We made tapes, but thankfully I no longer have anything to play them back on.
Now I don’t much care about looking older, but how old I look is another matter. I’d rather not look any particular age at all. Here’s what I want to hear whispered at the wedding:
“How old is she, do you think?”
“I don’t know, she’s just ageless, isn’t she . . . ”
Clarisonic’s Mia power brush.
And so . . . back issues of Bazaar and Vogue and Allure are stacked on the bathroom floor–where occasionally I’ll approach the mirror and try something distracting with eyeliner. I read reviews of every pill, cream and serum on MakeupAlley.com, where followers follow everything and occasionally post something more thoughtful and in depth than, “OMG! I can tell by the bottle that arrived two minutes ago that this is absolutely my HG.* Four stars!” Then I compare them to the reviews on Amazon.com.
Occasionally I’m moved to try something. Right now I’m more moved than usual.
The issue at hand is I’m cursed with a preternaturally youthful looking Mother of the Groom, who’s just six months younger than I but looks like–a kid. Evidence? When a medical event recently landed me in the hospital and she arrived at my bedside, the nurse leaned over and, I kid you not, said: “Your daughter’s here.”
And you want a photo of the two of us together? Spit, spit, as they say in Yiddish to ward off demons.
Before the wedding threat, and attendant tabs for said event started mounting, I experimented with Botox for the scowl, but the doctor was a little over-enthusiastic, my eyelids drooped, and I looked like a sleepy cow for three months. It was also goodbye to Lancôme’s Advanced Génifique, which I swore was doing something for the $80 or so it cost every six months (I always wait for the free bonus gift to replenish–who doesn’t get excited about another logo make-up bag?).
The keepers include three little purple pills a day of Nature’s Bounty Hair, Skin and Nails, which has 572 positive reviews on Amazon, costs $15.49 for 250 caplets, and gets me to the point where I can use my fingernails as screwdrivers. I’m also yanking hair from some unsightly locations, so I suppose it works for that as well, and several friends thought my skin glowy enough to buy said pills–and agree with my results.
An honest four stars does go to the now-ubiquitous Clarisonic Mia, a power brush that I’ve used semi-regularly for more than a year. My face has never been cleaner and smoother. Of course I wonder if the Clarisonic major, or whatever they call it, is better . . . Maybe Clarisonic wants to send me the high-test model to test-drive?
Then I layer on serums (layering is Very Big right now) from the 50-percent-off, about-to-expire basket near the checkout aisle at Harris Teeter. Who knows if they do anything. They never get a chance to work before the next possible cheap panacea screams, Hey there!
On top of whatever I’m using that day, I slather on Nivea Creme, which has the consistency of Crisco, and which I’m told is all the MOG (that preternaturally young woman six months younger than me; see above) has ever used, and which some people swear is every bit as good as Crème de la Mer. Read the “study” done a few years ago in the UK’s Daily Mail. As Crème de la Mer has yet to appear in the Harris Teeter bin I have no basis for personal comparison–Are you listening, La Mer Corporate?
Right now I’m awaiting the postman, bearing a test drive of a miracle product that’s guaranteed, they say, to hoist the jaw and iron the crevices in four minutes flat and last for at least five hours. Which is about what I’ll need to get through The Wedding, or at least through the photography session. If it wears off too soon, I can keep a drink in front of my face.
*HG stands for Holy Grail, any product–lipstick color, mascara, face cream–that a woman has spent her life (frequently the first 18 years) ISO (in search of). OMG! (Oh my God!)
WE (AND BY THAT I MEAN I) were severely underdressed for lounging at the Umstead. The Forbes five-star resort and spa set in a 12-acre wooded grove in Cary, North Carolina, requires slink; champagne satin a la Harlow, marabou mules.
Sleek blond furniture, Frette linens, plush carpets, triple layers of drapery, it’s tres 1930s drawing-room comedy. Bring on Jeeves! Enter Clark Gable. (You can add Asta, but a pup will add $200 to room tabs that begin at $329.)
Our 1,080-square-foot suite runs $599, including a foyer, powder room, huge balcony overlooking the pool (open through November) and a lake with a trail that skirts splashing fountains and basking turtles. The bath, large enough for a rumba and standard in all rooms, features a soaking tub, separate glassed-in shower and toilet, double vanity and Gilchrist & Soames toiletries.
What magic have they done with the lighting and mirrors? One looks 10 pounds lighter, three inches taller. You won’t regret a final glance before sashaying off to Herons, the hotel’s extraordinary restaurant, or a nightcap in the bar and grill, which borrows glitter from the Dale Chihuly glass sculpture. The hotel’s artwork alone is worth the visit.
A zip down the road from the Research Triangle that is Raleigh, Durham, and Chapel Hill, the Umstead is perfect for visiting the college kid–also a fine stopping point on trips south.
Included with your room are separate but equal facilities for men and women, including eucalyptus-infused steam baths, saunas, whirlpools, lounges, a meditation garden and a co-ed current pool. There are cucumber slices for the eyes (though we can’t swear they offer them to guys), teas and waters for system cleansing and invigorating.
Extras include massage therapies from thumping to soothing, exotic body scrubs, collagen facials and more. To understand the whole layout a tour guide is required. One is provided.
And have you ever been in a scented gym? We (and by that I mean I) kid you not. Sweat never smelled so sweet.
— Stephanie Cavanaugh Stephanie Cavanaugh is a freelance writer who covers
everything from luxurious hotels and spas, to homes haunted by ghosts and ghastly odors.
The Umstead Hotel & Spa, 100 Woodland Pond Drive, Cary, North Carolina 27513; 919-447-400, theumstead.com. Room rates start at $329.
“Tuck lights in the bushes out front,” lighting designer Randall Whitehead suggests.
Bliss Lights’ little laser projector lofts a mesmerizing twinkly light show, indoors or out.
Outdoor decorations benefit from a light show.
For a mysterious glow and alluring shadows, set “up lights” on the floor behind a potted palm.
“Ambient lighting softens shadows so people’s faces look young and rested.
Nix the cooler colors of Christmas lights, which are not good for skin tones. For maximum flattery, look for amber-colored bulbs, or those marked “incandescent” or “dimmed incandescent” on the packaging.
HOLIDAY LIGHTING! There’s magic in the air!” says exceptionally fabulous Washington designer Skip Sroka, who has a lot more exclaiming to do. “There’s nothing more exciting than lighting your whole house with candles — everyone looks fabulous!” he says.
Now amp that candlelight with reflective surfaces like silvery objects and mirrors. “I use huge mercury-glass urns on the foyer table — you get twice the illumination. One of the best holiday tables I’ve seen had tiny bits of mirror sprinkled about, mingled with candles. The table shimmered!”
More? “Lights that would be honest-to-god tacky any other time of year? Bring it on!” Sroka suggests twisting several strands of lights together into a thicker rope and draping them around the dining room; use adhesive hooks that won’t damage walls. “And don’t light the chandelier! Just the room rimmed with lights and candles on the table would make the most stunning dinner party!”
That indirect, candlelit glow is called ambient lighting, something often neglected no matter the season, says San Francisco-based lighting designer and author Randall Whitehead.
“Ambient lighting softens shadows so people’s faces look young and rested. It’s visual Botox without the pain,” says he. (Hoo boy, say we.)
The more indirect lighting you add, the more inviting the room. Highlight the ceiling with a bowl of Christmas lights on top of an armoire. Dazzle a dull corner with a torchere standing lamp. For a mysterious glow and alluring shadows on the ceiling, set “up lights” on the floor behind a potted palm.
Lacking a palm? Cut a pattern out of aluminum foil, then rest it on top of a light source for a magical ceiling or wall effect.
For Christmas lights, LEDs are the way to go, Whitehead says. “The last holiday lights you’ll ever buy.” But nix the cooler colors, which are not good for skin tones. For maximum flattery, look for amber-colored bulbs, or those marked “incandescent” or “dimmed incandescent” on the packaging.
“Tuck them in the bushes out front,” the designer suggests. “Wrap the banister, the garland over the fireplace, even inside the fireplace.”
Your Labrador’s tail plus candles give you shingles? Try LED versions. “The latest, from Plumeria, have an actual dancing flame that’s amazing and beautiful,” says Whitehead. “They look like candles but won’t blow out.”
For the piece de resistance, he adds, “I adore Bliss Lights!” This little laser projector lofts a mesmerizing twinkly light show, indoors or out, wherever it’s aimed. “I can light up all the trees in the back yard with one fixture and it looks like I laboriously hung lights in all the trees,” he says. “It’s pretty amazing.”
ONE IMAGINES IT possible that the flowers are painted to match the citrus-hued furniture. Anything seems possible in a place where a sign announces that today the ocean–not the beach–is closed due to stormy waters.
This is The Breakers, after all. The many star- and diamond-studded Italian Renaissance hotel that presides over the Palm Beach waterfront like the world’s most splendid cruise ship, though there’s no reason to disembark.
Like a cruise ship, the resort is capable of comfortably mingling guests of all ages and pedigrees, from the brilliantly bejeweled to the elaborately tattooed. Kids as well, with day and evening camps, playgrounds and game rooms to keep them out of your … coif.
Modeled after the Villa Medici, filled with tapestries, murals, gilding and chandeliers dripping Venetian crystals the size of mangoes, The Breakers, built in 1926, is tended by a chicly clad staff of 2,000.
At crack of dawn, teams of workers appear to prune the very air along with microcosmic snippets of errant grasses that have dared to breach the perfect gap between paver and lawn. Throughout the day the stone chalices (dare one call them ash trays?) that dot the property are constantly cleaned and raked.
Set on 140 acres, the property has four pools along the half-mile oceanfront, two golf courses, 10 tennis courts and 11 boutiques, including branches of Ralph Lauren, Guerlain, and Lilly Pulitzer, of course.
The spa offers everything from manicures to full-day indulgences, three fitness centers serve those who prefer the treadmill, and complementary classes are offered in belly dancing, pilates and yoga. Given the level of service it comes as a shock that you’re expected to swab your own yoga mat.
Among the eight restaurants there’s the Seafood Bar with aquarium bar-tops where neon tetras startle the stem of your mojito. HMF, in the fabulous Florentine room, tenders a palimpsest of mid-century modern furnishings with a 21st-century menu featuring cocktails and shareable small plates of duck orecchiette, cloud-light meatball, and sushi.
An oceanfront room, should you be so lucky, has a wall of sliding glass with a balcony framed by palms. An orchid nestles in succulents and seashells at the foot of the bed, the baths are marble, the soaps and creams custom to The Breakers, and the robes a wonderfully stretchy terry.
It is not in the least surprising that it takes $25 million per year to keep this fantasy afloat. All you need is a wallet with enough heft to indulge. Rooms begin at $480 per night in high season.
–Stephanie Cavanaugh Stephanie Cavanaugh is a freelance writer who covers
everything from luxurious hotels and spas, to homes haunted by ghosts and ghastly odors.
The Clock Tower of the Jefferson hotel in Richmond is a National Historic Landmark.
The loggia outside the Presidential Suite.
The hotel’s lower lobby, dominated by a staircase that may have inspired the one in “Gone With the Wind.’
Palms surround the indoor swimming pool, which leads to a sun deck overlooking the city’s rooftops.
THERE ARE REASONS why some hotels rate five stars from Forbes. Like pulling up to a grand porte-cochere in a 20-year-old pick-up, duct-tape patched and loaded with old house parts, and being greeted like her ladyship back from the hunt. (Which she was: Richmond has fantastic salvage yards).
Such a place is The Jefferson in Richmond, Virginia, exorbitantly gracious and luxurious to the tips of the terry slippers set out beside your turned-down bed and the Molton Brown soaps and creams in the marble bathroom.
Built in 1895 by Colonel Lewis Ginter, a Confederate officer and tobacco baron, who also designed the beautiful Ginter gardens on the edge of town, the Beaux-Arts masterpiece immediately and forevermore became the centerpiece of Richmond’s society events. Among the guests were 12 U.S. presidents, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Frank Sinatra, Charlie Chaplain, Elvis and most of the cast of the recent hit movie “Lincoln.”
A weekend here could be filled without leaving the premises. There’s a lower- level health club, spa and beauty salon. Palms surround the second-floor indoor pool, which gives out onto a sundeck overlooking rooftops that range from antebellum to contemporary.
As for food, there are divine grits in the casual TJ’s, and Southern-accented fare in the more formal Lemaire. Morning coffee can be taken in the upper lobby, where a life-size Carrara marble statue of Thomas Jefferson stands beneath the vast stained-glass dome of a Tiffany stained-glass skylight. Even more impressive is the sensational lower lobby, dominated by an extraordinary sweeping staircase that was replicated in “Gone With the Wind,” the steps that Rhett swooped Scarlett up in the film’s most palpitating scene.
Have we mentioned that the place is astonishing to look at? Set at city center, it takes no more than 10 minutes to reach any part of the Confederate capital, from the Riverwalk along the sparkling James, to the mile-long stretch of bistros and boutiques in Carytown, and myriad historic sites. Distances between most attractions are amusingly listed in yards, not miles, on hotels.com. Room rates begin at $350, but there are frequent special offers. Starting October 19, the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts is hosting an exclusive exhibition, “Forbidden City: Imperial Treasures From the Palace Museum, Beijing.” The hotel’s package for two, valid Sunday to Thursday through January 11, includes valet parking, breakfast and tickets to the show, and starts at $315.
Plus, the hotel always offers guests complimentary car service to whisk you around town then bring you back to your robe and slippers.
Guest rooms combine rustic and plush with comfortable results.
HOW QUICKLY CAN YOU LEAVE the 21st century? Two hours north on Interstate-95 and a right at Exit 7 and you’ve entered a time warp. There’s no CVS, no Walmart, no crowds, and the newest buildings date to, oh, 1935.
Decompression comes swiftly in Delaware’s Brandywine Valley, where carriage paths have been paved for cars but not much else has changed in a century. Stone mansions jostle stone cottages, all tucked behind rose-tumbled stone walls.
In its midst, the Inn at Montchanin Village is perfectly situated for exploring the du Ponts’ Winterthur museum and gardens (including an exhibit of costumes from the “Downton Abbey” TV series paired with like garments from the du Pont collection), the Wyeth collection at the Brandywine Museum, and Longworth Gardens, whose conservatory make Washington’s look like a terrarium.
Once the homes of workers employed at the du Ponts’ gunpowder mills, the 11 beautifully restored stucco-and-frame buildings, some dating to 1799, dot a 20-acre property where cobblestone pathways (beware, Manolos!) amble through splendid gardens, lantern-lit at dusk.
Most of the 28 period-elegant guest rooms and suites, which range in price from $192 to $399 a night, have a courtyard patio or porch, pleasant places to while away hours of doing nothing. Birds chirp.
While the exteriors of the buildings would be recognized by their long-ago residents, the interiors take wing. Each is individual in layout and, though varying in extravagance, all are up-to-the-minute posh. King and queen beds wear Frette linens, gas fireplaces warm chill evenings, and marble bathrooms have soaking tubs, room-size showers–or both. All have Wi-Fi and flat-screen TVs, if you must.
The centerpiece is the old milking barn, which contains the front desk and an enormous, and oddly African-themed, common room with large stuffed animals mingling with plush sofas and chairs, books and board games. An honor bar in the evening offers a quiet lounge in front of the fireplace.
The milking barn also houses a small gym and a spacious spa, where some patrons line up a weekend’s worth of royal treatments from hot stone massages to hydrating facials to manicures and pedicures, for her and him.
Despite its kitschy name, Krazy Kat’s restaurant offers fine dining in the renovated blacksmith’s cottage. Main courses come in either full-size or small-plate versions, for sampling. Try crab cakes bound with shrimp mousse, or meltingly tender rib-eye. Leave room for creme brulee, and make your dinner and brunch reservations when you book your stay. The restaurant deservedly packs in the locals.
–Stephanie Cavanaugh
The Inn at Montchanin Village, 514 Montchanin Road, Montchanin, Delaware 19710; 302-888-2133. www.montchanin.com