PEOPLE can be rotten. A week ago, Vladimir Putin had his armies deliberately bomb a building where children were taking shelter in Ukraine. The building had the word “Children” scrawled all over the outside of it. Still, the Russians dropped their bombs. Vladimir Putin is a person, like you and me, and he did that.
Certainly most average people do not rise to Putin’s level of evil, but many ordinary folks come damn close. Years ago my sister-in-law, whom I had been showering with expensive gifts for her and her three kids for at least 20 years each Christmas and birthday, presented me with a little $1.49 book called “The Book of Insults” for Christmas. Really?
Then there are strangers who say terrible things to you online, even though they know nothing about you and your personal struggles. One of those is a woman named Sharon from Amarillo, Texas. I don’t know her but today she commented, “trash blog” on a negative movie review I had posted.
I’m guessing Sharon did not agree with my review. She must have liked that movie. That’s the only thing I can think of because we don’t know each other. For all Sharon knows I could have any number of horrible things going on—I may have recently lost a child to a drug overdose. Maybe my husband was recently killed in a car accident, or I lost my beloved Corgi to liver disease and had to put him down the day before I wrote that movie review. Sharon doesn’t know! Yet she chose to write something so nasty and for no reason. Why? What’s the payoff from insulting strangers? Does it feel good?
No wonder wars keep happening. People are inherently jealous, mean and power-hungry. Does Sharon feel better after writing that my movie review is “trash?” How could that possibly help her in any way?
Influenced by geometry and repeatable patterns, Ann Klem designed this three-piece set, Tres Hermanas (Three Sisters), of cast and cold-worked glass. / Photo Smithsonian Craft Show.
These tapestries from fiber artist Hollie Heller combine weave with collage on vinyl. / Photo Smithsonian Craft Show.
Precise craftsmanship defines this intricate fused glass bowl with pattern squares arranged to form an almost lacy pattern. It’s by Patti and Dave Hegland. / Photo Smithsonian Craft Show.
Patricia Madeja’s Luminiaire necklace dazzles with clear, faceted quartz gemstones on 18k gold links. The 18k gold box clasp has two safety catches./ Photo Smithsonian Craft Show.
In addition to working on Hollywood sets and designing eyeglasses, Starr Hagenbring makes art that happens to be clothing. / Photo Smithsonian Craft Show.
Jewelry artist Jinbi Park is inspired by the coral reefs she sees when she scuba dives. / Photo Smithsonian Craft Show.
By Janet Kelly
IT’S BAAACK! The Smithsonian Craft Show—it’s the 40th—is returning to its long-standing venue, DC’s National Building Museum, April 20 to 24. Held in person for the first time since 2019, the 2022 show has chosen the theme of Future Focus for this year’s event, which will feature the work of 120 major contemporary artists, who are shaping the direction of modern craft with new materials, technology and design. Works in basketry, ceramics, decorative fiber, furniture, glass, jewelry, leather, metal, mixed-media, paper, wearable art and wood will be on display and for sale. Whether you’re adding to your collection or have never been to the show and are just browsing, you’ll find one-of-a-kind pieces in a wide price range.
The five-day anniversary celebration kicks off on April 20 with a Preview Night Party, an opportunity to meet and mingle with the artists and shop their latest work while enjoying a buffet and cocktail concoctions.
We took a peek into what you can expect to see at the show from newcomers, as well as veterans. Intense curiosity, a love of geometry and experimentation characterizes all these artists.
Patti Hegland left a finance career in DC to make innovative glass vessels with her husband, Dave, a computer engineer. They start with sheets of colored glass and cut them into narrow strips of assorted lengths and then lay the strips on edge in various geometric patterns. The result is a bit like ribbon candy. An interest in science fiction and black holes led Louisville, Kentucky-based artist Ann Klem to leave computer science and explore the fluid forms of glass and how colors react to one another.
The much-admired New Orleans-based Starr Hagenbring returns after an absence of a few years. Her stunning pieces come from her continuing experimentation with painting, cutting, piecing and stitching fabrics –vintage, remnants and designer run-offs —into different patterns. Much of fiber artist Hollie Heller’s inspiration comes from her fascination with textiles, primitive art and ethnic designs. In her studio she experiments with latex, acrylic mediums, wood stain, pigments, dyes and bleach with paper and fabric.
Currently located in Brooklyn, NY, Jinbi Park uses ancient Korean and Japanese techniques to create contemporary jewelry. Her pieces respect the environment with responsibly sourced diamonds, gemstones and recycled metals. Park says she is “inspired by nature’s organic structures – especially those of the ocean, such as coral reefs.” An alumna of Pratt Institute, jewelry artist Patricia Madeja’s playful designs come from her love of engineering and architecture. She designs and hand fabricates each element and the mechanisms that create motion within the piece. Clasps are carefully constructed and built into each piece to provide a continuous visual flow.
Hours: 10:30am to 5:30pm, Thursday, April 21, to Saturday, April 23, and Sunday, April 24, 11am to 5pm. You may use your ticket on the day of your choice.
Group tickets (10 or more) are $10 each; student tickets are $10.
Tickets for the Preview Night Party— from 6 to 9pm on April 20— are $250. First Look and Visionary Reception —from 5 to 6pm—are $500.
Covid Protocol:
To attend, proof of full vaccination against Covid-19 is required, either by displaying your status on a smartphone or by showing a physical copy of the vaccination card or official vaccination record.
Unvaccinated guests must provide proof of a negative Covid-19 test taken within 72 hours of attending.
Masks must be worn indoors, regardless of vaccination status, unless actively eating or drinking.
The Smithsonian Craft Show is produced by the Smithsonian Women’s Committee, an all-volunteer organization that supports the education, outreach and research programs of the Smithsonian Institution. The awe-inspiring National Building Museum is located at 401 F Street NW (202-272-2448). The closest Metro stop is Judiciary Square.
Lviv, Ukraine – March 7, 2022: Ukrainian refugees on Lviv railway station waiting for train to escape to Europe. /Photo by Rusian Lytvyn/iStock.
By Andrea Rouda
THERE’S A WAR on in Europe. As you may have heard between binge-watching your favorite dramatic series and playing your favorite video game, the people of Ukraine are being attacked by Russia. Forced to flee their homes with little but the clothes on their backs, they cradle their babies and pets in their arms. Food, water and safety are scarce.
Many of us have been watching the televised war in horror from the comfort of our homes. Last night I saw hundreds of people sheltering in a subway station deep below the city of Kyiv to escape bombs exploding above, while I snuggled under a fleecy blanket enjoying a scoop of salted caramel ice cream and a glass of Chianti. (Believe it or not, they go well together.)
Afterwards I logged onto Facebook and learned that Americans want to help, God bless them! Here’s some of the help I found:
* A woman on an art website I follow posted her 6-by-6 inch painting consisting of two blocks of the colors of the Ukrainian flag—blue and yellow—with a red heart in the middle. Her effort, which I’m guessing took her about 15 minutes to make, had gotten 187 likes by that point.
* Many, many people have added a border to their Facebook profile picture that says, “I STAND WITH UKRAINE.” Others have added the blue and yellow flag to their photos.
Aren’t those fun? They will help the Ukrainans not one bit, but somehow still make people feel better about themselves. I know it sounds nutty, but that’s people for you.
If you sincerely want to “stand with” the Ukrainians, SEND MONEY! There are many charities from which to choose.
Left to right: basics from Everlane, Wardrobe.NYC, Cos, Net-a-Porter and Aday.
By Janet Kelly
DESPITE an overflowing closet, you’ve got nothing you want to wear again. Perhaps you’ve heard of a “capsule wardrobe.” In the 1970s, London boutique owner Susie Faux came up with the term to describe the concept of investing in a few quality basics to wear interchangeably and then supplement with seasonal pieces. In 1985, Donna Karan had a similar idea with her famous “Seven Easy Pieces.”
Fast-forward to the 21st century for a peek into the offerings of five different brands that have created their own capsule wardrobes.
Everlane and Cos have introduced focused edits—”Modern Essentials” and “Icons,” respectively—of wardrobe staples, like button-downs, trench coats and tailored jackets. Eco-conscious Aday concentrates on sustainability with performance fabrics and clothing that can be styled multiple ways.
Niche brand Wardrobe.NYC sells four- and eight-piece sets of clothing, based on key pieces for “urban minimalists”—blazers, windbreakers and leggings. While other companies offer suggestions, Net-a-Porter asserts that the 15 pieces it has chosen for its capsule are your sine qua nons.
In any case, if you’re committed to slimming down your wardrobe, you’ll find some starter pieces below and possibly an outfit you’ll want to wear over and over again.
Everlane’s Modern Essentials consists of coordinated basics—neutral-colored blazers, pants and trench coats—along with T-shirts, jeans and leggings—to help you dress for every occasion.
From left to right: The cotton-blend ’80s blazer (also available in khaki and a gingham print) with a relaxed, roomy silhouette and defined shoulders is meant to be worn over leggings, jeans or pleated pants. It’s $175. This high-risepleated pant ($118, also in black and a gingham) meets its match with the ’80s blazer, and just like that, you have a suit, a welcome comeback to the wardrobe. The label’s classic trench ($198, also in black, gingham and smoke)—with storm flaps and gathered detail at the shoulders—can complement any combination of Everlane Essentials underneath.
Wardrobe. NYC, designed in New York City and made in Italy, offers a choice of seven capsule wardrobes. A four-piece sportswear set with a long-sleeve T-shirt, crop top, bike shorts and sport leggings is $400, while the eight-piece, Dune-inspired utility collection sells for a spendy $3,000. You can purchase individual pieces, but the price gets pricier.
From left to right: The über- functional utilityparka that’s also available in black is cut in a water-repellent textile with a flattering cinch waist, roomy sleeves and practical patch pockets. A straight skirt, available in midi or mini lengths, comes in the same technical fabric; so does the zippered, voluminous, hooded raincoat. The utility pant, which can be nicely dressed up, is shown here with the collection’s knit long-sleeve T-shirt. A midi-dress and stirrup leggings round out the wardrobe.
Cos’s wheelhouse is minimalist, everyday clothing. Its entry into the capsule wardobe concept is Cos Icons , “a curated selection of pieces that will form the foundation of your wardrobe.” Although seventy-four items—at last count—which rotate according to the season, add up to more than what I’d call a capsule, pieces in neutral shades can easily be combined with their fellows. For example, these three pieces, from left to right: tapered jeans($120), a flare long-sleeve T-shirt ($49) and an A-line striped sweater($120) add up to at least two outfits and incorporated with pants and skirts you already own, multiply your choices.
Aday offers eight capsule collections, each of which includes six or more pieces. Packable, comfortable and machine washable, the clothing is meant to be worn on repeat. Traveling this summer, maybe? The eight-piece Cool Weave capsule is made from moisture-wicking fabric with a UPF 50+ rating.
From left to right: The Twist + Chill Wrap Top ($140, available in black, too) can be styled in five ways by tying the fabric or using the attached snaps—probably not for the directionally challenged. The relaxed-fit Something Cool Button Down ($170, also in black and forest green) has side slits, dolman sleeves and cuffs that can scrunch up stylishly. Both tops go with wrinkle-free Ice Pop dress pants ($200), appointed with handy snaps at the ankle for adjusting the fit.
Net-a-Porter is laser focused on the 15 pieces you should own in its 2022 “Ultimate Capsule Wardrobe.” The collection is a high-end designer curation of loafers, ’90s shoulder bags, trophy totes, classic coats and everyday embellishments, plus timeless watches ranging in price from a couple of thousand to more than 25k. A few of the more practical and less expensive pieces we liked:
From left to right: Agolde’s dark gray, straight-leg jeans ($200), categorized under the “new jean shape” will look great with Allude’s black-and-white wool-and-cashmere sweater ($315)— under the staple knits section. And Anine Bing’s oversize, transitional wool-twill jacket ($380) is the quintessential closet evergreen. Pair it with black leather or faux leather pants—another one of Net-a-Porter’s must-haves.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
Clockwise, from left to right: Alice + Olivia’s crocheted floral sweater, H&M’s smiley-yellow cardigan, Co’s luxe cashmere crew and Ganni’s hot pink sweater with crystal buttons.
By Janet Kelly
IN THE infancy of My Little Bird, ace contributor Catherine Clifford wrote a post about Botox and emotion.
“The mechanism by which Botox may lift mood stems from a counterintuitive aspect of emotion-generation. Good things happen, you feel happy, so you smile; bad things, you feel sad, you frown. Sure, but it works in the other direction, too—your body helps your brain figure out what to feel.”
Could that also work when you wear a bright color—change your attitude from sad to glad? Frankly, I have no idea, but it just may be worth investing in spring sweaters in sprightly hues to test the theory. Below, ones we’ve chosen for the trial:
LEFT: The only thing that isn’t classic about The Frankie Shop’s Joya Oversized Wool-Blend Turtleneck sweater ($295, Moda Operandi) is its shade of vibrant green. Made mostly of merino wool, it has a cozy vibe and just the right amount of slouch. When these uncertain days of March need a dose of color.
RIGHT: Don’t reserve—I wouldn’t—this ribbed cardigan from Ganni for a special occasion. Instead, make any day special when you wear a rosy pink sweater adorned with shiny, crystal buttons. The spiffy cardi is $304 and is “coming soon” to Matches Fashion.
LEFT: One thing’s for sure—you’ll get noticed in neon yellow. And how could you not break into a smile when you slip on &Other Stories’ wool and mohair sweater($149, Nordstrom). If you were intent on making a statement, you could pair it with a skirt like the one pictured above. We found something similar on the Outnet—a pleated poplin skirt by Christopher John Rogers. The only one left in stock is a size 4; it sells for $628.
RIGHT: Tout à Coup’s name captured my attention. Turns out it’s a Hong Kong brand with a French girl accent. In any case, this powder-blue rib-knit cardigan ($131, Farfetch) will spark joy however and whenever—e.g., layered under a warm puffer now—you wish to wear it. Don’t leave it on your desk chair, though—it’s far too pretty.
LEFT: If wool makes your sensitive skin itch, try alpaca (it supposedly pills less) as in Everlane’s sea glass waffle-stitch polo. It looks smart with black cropped pants now and will be an elegant topper for white jeans when the weather warms up. It sells for $125 and also comes in tan, black and white and white.
CENTER: This Easter egg-colored merino-wool polo comes courtesy of 12 Storeez, a line designed by Russian twin sisters who live in Paris. Pair the close-fitting style with with jeans or trousers or layer under sleeveless dresses and blazers. It’s $131 at Farfetch. A similar version—in lyocell—is available in an orangey-red for $119, also at Farfetch.
RIGHT: If this wool-and-alpaca blend sweater happened to be in my closet, it would be my go-to knit on unpredictably cold spring days. Puff sleeves add a fashion-y feel to the generously cut knit with a cropped hem. It’s $120 from Cos Stores.
LEFT: This smiley-face colored cable-knit cardigan with ribbed collar, hem and cuffs is $24.99 at H&M. Heads-up, wallet watchers and anyone else.
RIGHT: Less expensive but still very spendy, Los Angeles-based Co is an alternative to Jil Sander’s minimalist looks. The brand’s boyfriend crewneck is an oversized sweater in 100% cashmere with a boxy silhouette. Yes, a splurge but in such an irresistible, gorgeous green. It’s $950 at Nordstrom.
LEFT: Elyce Arons has kept the Kate Spade spirit alive in Frances Valentine, as this angora wool-blend Darling Cardigan ($398) with a pink poppy print, sourced from a vintage watercolor, proves. Whether you want to complete the look with the matching shell ($298) —or not—it will brighten your winter wardrobe and maybe your mood, too. Green corduroy pants optional.
RIGHT: Delicate trim at the neck and hem adds an unexpected dash of femininity to Boden’s milkshake-colored Fluffy Ribbed Sweater. Zhuzh up your everyday jeans. The v-neck alpaca-and-wool knit sells for $130. BTW, it also comes in basil green.
LEFT: When you can’t make up your mind what color you want to wear, cover your bases with Alex Mill’s merino wool jewel-neck cardigan. The color-blocked “Francis” sweater, inspired by ’50s pop art, sells for $155.
CENTER: How cute is this cotton cardigan ($79.50, Nordstrom) with its lively harlequin/argyle pattern that pops on the white background? Note to self: There are only a few left in limited sizes. If you hesitate you’ll regret it in May and June.
RIGHT: I doubt that Alice + Olivia’s designer Stacey Bendet, who has her own quirky approach to fashion, ever met a color she didn’t like. In someone else’s hands, this cropped crochet cardigan with embroidered flowers and buttons could resemble your grandmother’s afghan. Instead I see it as an eye-catching top over dresses or high-rise pants on a warmish March day. It’s $440 at Alice + Olivia.
LEFT: I know it’s white and this post is about color, but I’m making an exception because Sea New York’s intricately crocheted lace sweater with extra-puffy sleeves and fringe detailing is made for celebrating—and boosting endorphins. It’s available at Nordstrom for $495.
RIGHT: Half- and quarter-zip sweaters are popular and stylish, but practically speaking there are many occasions—getting a hair cut, trying on clothes, for example— when I’d prefer not to pull something over my head. L.L. Bean’s zip-front cardigan ($59.95) comes in nine other good colors, in addition to this warm coral.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
EARLY THIS morning I noticed the bird feeder outside the kitchen door was almost empty. With the thermometer reading six degrees and everything under a blanket of snow and ice, I knew the little chickadees that flock to it each day were counting on me.
Donning my wool hat, snow boots and heaviest down coat, I entered our frigid garage which is where I keep the extra feeders and the bird seed. As I was filling the feeder I inadvertently knocked over a small uncapped jar of turpentine in which I was soaking a few paintbrushes. It went everywhere, mostly on me, dousing my sweatpants and my coat. This was not good.
I immediately went back inside and took off the coat and then the boots so that I could take off the pants and threw them into the washing machine (not the boots), hoping if I acted soon enough I could get rid of that strong turpentine odor that tends to linger for seemingly years.
Once again dressed in clean clothes and a warm jacket, I ventured outside and faced a new peril: Sharp, slick sheets of ice piled in odd angles led to the feeder hanging about four yards away. I took a few steps and slid crazily, grabbing onto a nearby tree branch to steady myself. Channeling the Italian downhill skier who won the silver medal in Beijing despite her torn ACL and fractured tibia, I told myself, “You can do this!” My cat, who had snuck out through the door left ajar, obviously disagreed. Smirking, he retreated into the house to avoid witnessing my inevitable fall. I considered giving up.
But the birds —they might starve! So I kept at it, pretending I was crossing the Khumbu Icefall on Mt. Everest without oxygen. That helped a lot. I made it, and with only a few crazy, out-of-control slips and slides. I may have screwed up my neck a little bit, and my left shoulder feels funny, but hey, I didn’t break any bones and at least the birds won’t go hungry. (Good thing I have a physical therapy appointment this afternoon.)
KNOCK WOOD, fingers crossed, the world is opening up, and we’ll be able to travel again—keinehora—as my Jewish grandmother, if she were around, would say. In the fervent hope of that happening, we looked —from the East Coast to the West and across the pond—and found six museums with current fashion exhibits and another that will start in May. The designs of marquee names, including Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood, Thierry Mugler, Martin Margiela, Franco Moschino, André Courrèges and Carl Fabergé, along with one that should be—Patrick Kelly—are all represented. Spring is practically here. Mark your calendar for these knockout shows:
Left: Franco Moschino used humor and incongruous imagery to make philosophical points. On this 1992 suit, Moschino seems to question fashion itself, with graphic lettering that reads “fashion” and “fashoff.” Center: This Fall 1996 suit from Vivienne Westwood incorporates elements of the designer’s fascination with traditional British dress, specifically in its precise tailoring and use of tartan fabric. She irreverently combines these elements with asymmetrical design and mixes tartans to create a suit that reflects her creativity. Right: Deconstructionist Martin Margiela’s 1999 pullover sweater (center) with a mock turtleneck made from knit socks. / Photos courtesy of the Museum at FIT.
Minimalism. Retro. Deconstruction. The rejuvenation of haute couture—these are just a few of the ideas that defined 1990s fashion. FIT’s “Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the Nineties” (through April 17, 2022) features more than 75 looks of designers —Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Helmut Lang, Maison Martin Margiela and Prada—who challenged the expected appearance of high fashion, and who laid the foundation for fashion of the 21st century. Through April 17 at the Museum at FIT.
“Thierry Mugler, Couturissime, which runs through April 24 at the Musée Des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, celebrates the daring fashion designer’s haute couture collections and collaborations with artists and musicians. Born Manfred Thierry Mugler in Strasbourg, France, he studied dance as a teenager before moving to Paris and starting his own brand.
More than 150 of his pieces designed from 1973 to 2014 are in this exhibit, along with photography (he shot his brand’s advertising for years), perfumes (notably his best-selling, Angel) and music videos (he directed George Michael’s “Too Funky”). The exhibition’s opening rooms, devoted to Mr. Mugler’s late 1990s collections “Les Insectes” and “Chimère,” have video backdrops of bucolic and ocean scenes, with sounds of chirping birds and gurgling water. The show also explores recurrent themes in Mugler’s work, such as classic cars and motorcycles—reflected in fender bustiers, radiator belts and a black rubber skirt suit. Futurism is represented by metal and plexiglas corsets and catsuits. Throughout are photographs of Thierry Mugler fashion, taken by Mugler as well as by Guy Bourdin, Jean-Paul Goude, Karl Lagerfeld, Dominique Issermann and David LaChapelle.
Mugler died this January at the age of 73. He left the fashion biz completely in 2002 but then had something of renaissance when he dressed Cardi B for the 2019 Grammys in a look from his Haute Couture Fall/Winter 1995-1996 collection. He also designed Kim Kardashian’s latex beaded gown for the 2019 Met Gala.
Left: Three dresses by Patrick Kelly, left and center from his fall/winter 1986 collection; right from his, fall/winter 1988 collection. / Image courtesy of the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Right: A model smiles as she walks the runway at Patrick Kelly’s spring/summer 1989 fashion show. Photo by Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images. Image courtesy of the Fine Arts Museums of San FranciscoPhoto by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images. /Image courtesy of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.
“Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love,” first shown at the Philadelphia Museum of Art in 2014, was rejiggered by the de Young, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco in 2021, where it runs through April 24. Kelly, who was born in Vicksburg, Mississippi in 1954, was inspired by his Southern upbringing, African-American heritage and his days in New York and Paris, where he was based beginning in 1979. The exhibit, which includes more than 80 runway ensembles, dating from 1984 to 1990, is divided into several themes. “Runway of Love” highlights the designer’s heart-shaped embellishments to his clothing, often composed from his signature buttons. As a child growing up in Vicksburg, Kelly would often lose his buttons, which his grandmother replaced with multicolored ones, a look that Kelly later adapted for his fashion designs. “Mississippi in Paris” takes on Kelly’s experience with racism. He reappropriated images of racial stereotypes—on advertising and household products —for his designs and brand, believing it was necessary to know one’s history to move on. “Hot Couture” is Kelly’s tribute to his muses and fashion history. Madame Grès’ mastery draping and manipulating fabric into Greek goddess-like gowns inspired Kelly’s more practical knitted jersey dresses with wraps that tied around the body.
Peacock Egg presented by Emperor Nicholas II to Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna in Easter 1908, made by chief workmaster Henrik Wigstrom for Fabergé, 1907 – 1908, St Petersburg. / Photos courtesy of the V&A Museum.
“Fabergé in London: Romance to Revolution” is a major show at the V&A (through May 8) devoted to the international prominence of the master Russian goldsmith Carl Fabergé and the importance of his little-known London branch, which opened in 1903 and closed in 1917, as the Revolution hit his Russian workshops. Focusing on Fabergé’s Edwardian high society clientele, the exhibit highlights his success in Britain as well as the global fascination with his creations. Best known for his ornate, very expensive eggs, Fabergé also made many other equally luxurious works during his time, including opulent cigarette cases, a cigar box, set with a sepia enameled view of the Houses of Parliament and a silver cigar cutter in the form of a fish.
Left: Yves Saint Laurent’s Piet Mondrian black, red, yellow and blue jersey dress from his fall-winter collection of 1965. / Photo courtesy of the Pompidou Center. Right: Organdy jacket embroidered with gold and crystals from Saint Laurent’s spring/summer 1990 collection. / Photo courtesy of the Louvre Museum.
Saint Laurent’s famous “Le Smoking” from left to right, fall 2001, fall 1996, spring 1967, spring 1967 and fall 1988. / Photo courtesy of Musée d’Orsay.
The fact that six museums are paying tribute to him shows how influential he was and highlight the artistic value of his work. But also, each museum will have a different focus and theme. The Louvre, for instance, highlights his love of gold, while the Pompidou focuses on his modern sensibility. The Picasso Museum looks at the influence of you-know-who on YSL’s garments, while the Musée d’Orsay examines the influence of writer Marcel Proust. The Museum of Modern Art’s exhibition sets its sights on YSL’s use of color.
Entry costs vary by museum, and while all exhibitions will run until May 15, some are on for longer than others. Check each museum’s website for more information.
Left: Silk and wood parasol, 1860s. Above right: Dr. Martens, work boots, 2000. Below right: Ivory plastic sunglasses, André Courrèges, spring/summer 1965./ Photos courtesy of the Museum at FIT.
“HEAD TO TOE”, a Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology exhibition, explores approximately 200 years of women’s dress from 1800 to the early 21st century through the lens of accessories. The show, with 30 garments and more than 200 accessories, is organized chronologically to illustrate the evolution of Western women’s fashion over two centuries.
Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, evening pumps and purse, 1955-1959. / Photo courtesy of the Museum at FIT.
Today, a pair of high-end designer sunglasses has superseded the luxurious parasol of the nineteenth century, yet both convey aspirational status as they shade their wearers. Likewise, a designer cell phone case may have replaced a bejeweled makeup compact of the twenties, but both speak to modernity and progress in a continually changing world.
Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Fendi, Pierre Balmain, Roger Viver, Lilly Daché, Claire McCardell, Tréfousse, Judith Leiber and André Courréges are some of the featured designers. The exhibition runs through May 15.
BEGINNING May 7, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute will open the second part of a two-part exhibit about fashion in the United States. In America: An Anthology of Fashion, which will run through September 5, is presented in collaboration with the museum’s American Wing.
Men’s and women’s dress from the eighteenth century to the present will be featured in vignettes in select American Wing period rooms spanning from about 1805 to 1915, including a Shaker Retiring Room from the 1830s; a 19th-century parlor from Richmond, Virginia; and a 20th-century living room designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. These interiors will tell a tale of more than 200 years of American domestic life. Through a series of three-dimensional cinematic “freeze frames,” produced with the cooperation of notable American film directors, the exhibition will reflect on the role of dress in shaping American identity.
YOU MAY have missed this week’s post on Rancho de La Puerta, a spa located just below southern California in Baja. If so, do give it a read to find out why we thought it was so special. Almost as special is the offer by Monique Mead, who, among her many talents, is director of the spa’s Annual Chamber Music Festival: “I’ll be happy to pass on my ‘presenter discount’ to any MyLittleBird readers who would like to go.”
If that sounds like an offer you can’t refuse, send me an e-mail telling me what dates you would like to go and I will forward it to Monique.
I KNOW she’s reading this because, well, she reads this almost every day! (Now that’s what I call a friend.) I won’t name her because she probably wouldn’t want me to. And besides, it allows me to praise her to the skies without her getting embarrassed and without anyone who disagrees with me writing a rude comment.
Her long list of admirable qualities includes:
Kindness: Each morning she reads the entire daily metropolitan newspaper, word by word, to a friend who had a stroke several years ago and who can no longer read.
Adventuresome: She has climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro, sailed (in a little boat, not an ocean liner) from California to Hawaii with a group of strangers after answering an ad seeking crew members, spent ten days in Haiti, and trapped hawks in remote areas of Utah for months at a time for the benefit of science.
Nurturing: Besides raising three children and currently participating in the daily care of her grandson, she nursed her husband back to health after he suffered a debilitating stroke several years ago. She makes a mean chicken matzoh ball soup.
Intelligent: She plays Bridge like a champ and belongs to a book club and actually reads the books. She played Wordle a few times but stopped because it was too easy and not a challenge.
Talented: She’s an exceptionally great cook and extremely organized, preparing huge meals for as many as 20 people for all holidays. She also plans all the meals and buys all the food (with necessary condiments!) for about 10 (or more) people for a two-week long camping trip every summer in the Grand Tetons.
Loves Animals: She’s had a long parade of dogs and cats who, if they could talk, would say she’s the best owner any pet could have. She paid many thousands of dollars for surgery when her daughter’s miniature schnauzer was attacked by a bigger dog and had his side all but ripped open! She once called a pet psychic for help when her timid indoor cat accidentally got outside in a snowstorm, and she found him!
Funny: She cracks me up, and hardly anyone does.
So Happy Birthday to You-Know-Who-You-Are! And may you have many more and most important of all, outlive me!
They start way too early, but once you’ve committed, morning mountain hikes begin the day on a high. /Photo courtesy of Rancho La Puerta.
Colorful Mexican folk art and hand-carved furniture offset dark wood beam ceilings of this large hacienda with a split-level living area. / Photo courtesy of Rancho La Puerta.
The entrance to the casita we stayed in –Sol 3–with its own fireplace, lounge area and patio. / Photo by Janet Kelly.
Tres Estrellas, about a 2-mile hike from Ranch central, includes orchards, raised beds and herbs—all of them managed with organic and sustainable practices. / Photo courtesy of Rancho La Puerta.
Each singing bowl has a note, octave and frequency related to various areas of the body. Sound healing sessions help clear energy blockages and neutralize tension./ Photo courtesy of Rancho La Puerta.
Foam rollers have been around for more than 20 years. These inexpensive personal massage tools, which come in all sizes and densities, help with muscle recovery, soreness and flexibility training. / Photo courtesy of Rancho La Puerta.
For aerial yoga, it’s stretch, relax and unwind in silk hammocks suspended close to the ground. / Photo courtesy of Rancho La Puerta.
A random note of wisdom spotted along one of the property’s winding paths. / Photo courtesy of Rancho de la Puerta.
One of the ranch’s larger villa accommodations with a shaded lounge area. / Photo courtesy of Rancho La Puerta.
A little night music during the Annual Chamber Music Festival. Concerts take place in the acoustically wonderful, octagon-shaped Oaktree Pavilion. / Photo courtesy of Rancho de la Puerta.
Rainbow lasagna with vegetarian lentil bolognese sauce is a cornucopia of spring vegetables. / Photo courtesy of Rancho La Puerta.
Carrot and ginger soup, garnished with basil and pumpkin seeds, is a popular dinner menu starter. / Photo courtesy of Rancho de la Puerta.
By Janet Kelly
BLAME IT on my next-door neighbor—Monique Mead. A violinist and director of music entrepreneurship at Pittsburgh’s Carnegie Mellon University, for about two years she has been singing the praises of this “ranch” place I understood was somewhere just over the Mexican border, south of San Diego. A friend jokingly called it “Mexicish.”
Monique and I would have a conversation along these lines:
Me: I’m not sure a spa is my thing. I don’t even get massages or facials, and I’ve heard these places are chi-chi.
Monique: It’s not just a spa. You have pickle ball and tennis, classes in mat and machine Pilates; there’s yoga, swimming (four pools), sound healing and mountain hikes with spectacular scenery. Plus, lectures from experts in their fields and nightly concerts from all-star musicians. (Monique directs the ranch’s annual chamber music festival in February.) Nobody wears makeup or dresses up. Yoga pants are preferred attire.
Jim and I started to think the Ranch would be a welcome winter break and signed up last summer for the week of February 5 to 12. We did buy insurance in case we had to cancel for some reason, namely Covid 19—we hadn’t even heard of the Omicron variant. Luckily, by February, cases were going way down. In January we e-mailed copies of our vaccinations/booster cards and took antigen tests within 48 hours of our arrival and e-mailed them a photo of the results.
From the time we arrived at the San Diego Airport on Saturday, February 5, to when we left a week later, it was evident that Rancho La Puerta paid attention to every detail in its extremely organized operation. (As a former Apple exec we met at lunch told us later in the week, “Apple could learn from them.”)
A bus transported the roughly 30 of us who arrived that Saturday morning to within 100 feet of the Mexican border where we got off and walked our luggage to the crossing. The Ranch staff had the Mexican government forms we had filled out previously and showed them along with our passports at the border. We then walked through a turnstile and boarded a minivan for the 15-minute ride to the Ranch.
The setting is a picturesque valley at the base of Mount Kuchumaa, just below southern California in Baja. The 4,000 acres include 40 miles of hiking trails, 32 acres of landscaped gardens, fragrant with lavender, and an organic farm with a cooking school. Our first day we got a guided tour of the grounds and figured we’d know our way around by the following Friday. For the directionally challenged, the many signs helped.
A staff member placed our bags on a trolley and led us to our casita—Sol 3—a thoroughly inviting space with a wooden beam ceiling, a small, rustic living room, a bedroom with a king-size bed and a large bathroom—with a heater. Terra cotta flooring, colorful Mexican folk art on fabrics and tiled mirrors warm the interior as well as an adobe fireplace that was cleaned and restocked with wood after every use. While we were there, the temperature was cool in the morning and evening and warm midday.
I may not have heard of it, but the Rancho de la Puerta is one of the original health and fitness resorts, an early enthusiast of yoga, mindfulness and vegetarian diets.
Founded in 1940 by Hungarian philosopher Edmond Szekely and Deborah, his Brooklyn-born wife, the Ranch started out as a retreat where guests paid $17 a week to pitch their own tent and study with the “Professor” about the benefits of vegetarianism, interval fasting and exercise.
Deborah Szekely, who will turn 100 in May, still walks at least an hour a day, does Pilates twice a week and keeps a watch on her weight. Plus, she’s working on a memoir. The grande dame of the spa industry (she also founded the Golden Door, which she sold in 1998), she’s the quintessential example of how to live a healthy life. In a recent interview with The Washington Post, she said, “I’m a role model. If you do all these things — hey, you can be 99 and still be having fun.”
The cuisine has evolved from all vegetarian to include fish and seafood like halibut and salmon and shrimp. Breakfast is buffet style, with offerings from fruit and yogurt to scrambled eggs and beans, as well as delicious homemade bread. Vegetable tortillas and lush salads are the fare at the buffet-style lunch. At four-course dinners—which begin with soup and end with something sweet and a spicy tea—guests are invited to join other guests at community tables, and the result is interesting conversations—and even friendship. New Yorker Ronnie met fellow New Yorker Sally here several years ago. Sally had decided to return this week and convinced Ronnie to do likewise. It was Sally’s fifth trip, Ronnie’s 20th.
Among the highlights of my week were learning the rules (a puzzlement) of pickle ball in addition to improving my game through drills at clinics. Sound healing classes turned the volume down on my whirring thoughts, while lectures on diet, exercise and neuroplasticity brought me new awareness of the importance of good health. I’m probably spoiled forever by the woman who worked out the knots in my neck and back. But my favorite experience was a two-mile hike to the Ranch’s organic garden and cooking school, punctuated midway by a member of the Miro Quartet playing a lively fiddle tune and then a bountiful breakfast of scrambled eggs, black beans, salsa, seasonal fruit, buckwheat granola, strawberries and muffins. A concert by the members of the quartet, along with Monique on the violin and Anthony McGill, principal clarinet of the New York Philharmonic, topped off the morning’s pleasures with Argentine composer Astor Piazzolla’s “Bordel” (the tango originated in the brothels of Argentina) and “Cafe 1930,” ending with a rousing rendition of the tango song “Por una cabeza” from the 1992 movie Scent of a Woman.
I was thinking how I might incorporate some of what I’d experienced during the week to my daily life. And, what do you know, the last day of our stay, there was a talk called, “Take the Ranch Home.” I don’t grow my own vegetables nor could I commit to daily trips to fresh markets. But instead of meeting friends for lunch or dinner, I could consider meeting them for a walk instead. As someone who has been known to eat cookies for lunch, new habits are a good thing.
I’ve clearly drunk the Kool-Aid, er, the shot glass of turmeric, ginger and lemon juice served every morning at breakfast. Anyway, I now understand why so many guests choose to return so frequently; it’s no longer the mystery it was at the beginning of the week. Thank you, Monique, for the nudge.
For a weekly stay at the Ranch, prices have gone up considerably since 1940. During high season—February 25 to June 17, 2022—rates start at $5,000 per week (Saturday to Saturday) for a sole-occupancy Ranchero Solo and go to $6,500 per person, double occupancy, for the largest casita — Villa Cielo. For more information and availability, go to Rancho La Puerta.
WHAT DO you do when your spouse is embarrassing? I ask because this situation crops up fairly often in my life. I mean, does his questionable behavior reflect poorly on me? More to the point, should it? After all, I’m not his mother. Or even a blood relative, so basically it has nothing to do with me.
What I’m referring to at the moment is my husband’s upcoming trip to northern Minnesota, planned for the middle of February when the temps are 4°-below on a regular basis. Unless they’re 3°-below.
Why would he go, you wonder. Well, to go ice-fishing. Which means, to sit on a frozen lake and dangle a fishing line into a hole in the ice, for hours on end.
The draw is drinking beer, if you ask me, and plenty of it, along with some other guys who are around, all of them talking “man talk.”
Oh, did I mention he first has to drive two hours to an airport, then fly for 3½ hours, spend the night in a hotel, then drive five hours (across the frozen landscape) to get to the little hole in the ice?
See what I mean? It’s embarrassing. Especially since he doesn’t fish.
Midge tells Susie, “No more opening-act gigs.” And “Make me a headliner.” / Photo by Christoper Saunders, copyright Prime Video.
Midge’s dress captures the era’s love of color, but that hat! / Photo by Christopher Saunders, Copyright Prime Video.
Instead of the little black dresses Midge has relied on for past performances, she departs from the expected with this more fashion-forward look./ Photo courtesy of Prime Video.
Ladies who lunch must wear hats. / Photo courtesy of Prime Video.
A sampling of the many multicolored hats Three Rivers Vintage sent to “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel.” / Photo by Scott Johnson.
A pair of late ’50s glitter floral shoes we could see a cast member wearing when the fourth season of “Mrs. Maisel” kicks off this Friday. / Photo by Scott Johnson.
Scott Johnson of Three Rivers Vintage sent more than 100 pairs of gloves to “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel.” / Photo by Scott Johnson.
Will Midge succeed in her quest to be a celebrated comedian? This promo for the show implies that she will. / Copyright Prime Video.
By Janet Kelly
SPORTS teams and bridges (you might remember one in particular)—are what Pittsburgh is most well known for. Among its lesser-known treasures is a 1,200-square-foot store on the city’s South Side named Three Rivers Vintage.
Proprietor Scott Johnson opened the shop eight years ago, intending to sell his fashion-focused collection of clothes and accessories from the 1860s to the 1980s to “anyone who walked through the door.” One of the first to come knocking was Netflix’s psychological crime thriller “Mind Hunter,” asking for ‘70s and ‘80s apparel. “I sold them a ton,” said Johnson. Shortly thereafter he got a call from the film crew of “A Beautiful Day in the Neighborhood,” requesting cardigans à la Mr. Rogers.
When movies are filming in Pittsburgh Johnson says he tends to gets more involved, so he asked someone on a set why they had called him. “Oh, please, everybody in L.A. knows that when you need vintage pieces for filming on the East Coast you go to Three Rivers,” was the answer.
So Johnson wasn’t shocked when last January “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel” team called to request late 1950s, early 1960s dresses, coats, hats, purses, shoes and jewelry for potential use in the fourth season of the Amazon Prime Emmy award-winning comedy. (The fourth season was scheduled to begin production in late spring 2020, but it was postponed due to the pandemic. It finally started in early 2021 and wrapped filming in late summer.)
The crew communicated with Johnson via e-mail and Instagram, sending pictures of their story boards, pointing out the looks they were going for. He spent many hours sourcing, reading e-mails in the middle of the night and speaking with the costume designer. When he saw what he had that matched their vibe, he sent them a batch of mostly accessories, including more than 100 pairs of gloves, as well as handbags, winter coats and matching hats.
“They had specific requirements, such as skirts have to fall beneath the knee. The show is known for fashion, so they’re very particular.”
Johnson buys and hand selects every item in Three Rivers’ comprehensive inventory of about 8,000 pieces, 98 percent of which is from private buys. He makes house calls and has traveled up to five hours away to see a collection. To judge whether it’s worth the journey he asks customers to send him five or six photos of their holdings. He notes that sometimes you get lucky and score a motherlode, while other times those five or six pieces you have photos of are the only ones you want.
Nevertheless, he’s looking forward to seeing what stylish vintage clothing the Maisel folks (the stars as well as the background characters) will be wearing.
As for us, we’re rooting for a comeback for Midge and her comedic career after her fall from the graces of Shy Baldwin. If her conversation with Susie in the season trailer about not doing any more opening-act gigs and running her own show offer any clues, we’re in for a rocky ride. But we’re confident Midge and the rest of the cast will be dressed for the bumps.
The fourth season of “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel” premieres this Friday night, February 18, on Amazon Prime.
NOW THAT I am old enough to be called a “senior,” I’m officially out of touch. I don’t have dementia, I still remember who and where I am, what year it is, and sadly, who’s the president, but I don’t recognize anyone but my friends and family. I have no idea who any celebrities are these days, except of course the dead ones, which is both funny and strange because it keeps me out of the loop, what with celebrities being all anyone talks about besides face masks or how bad Donald Trump was, is and certainly will be when he runs in 2024. Like just today I read an article about a man I’ve never heard of or seen before who had a baby with a woman I’ve never heard of or seen, just two weeks after divorcing a different woman I’ve never heard of or ever seen, and it was supposedly shocking news.
That’s the main way I know that I’m old, which is important. Otherwise I’d still feel like my life matters, and as we all know, according to advertisers, movie makers and politicians, it doesn’t really.
From left to right: The Frankie Shop’s Decima Trench, COS’s pink v-neck and Alex Mill’s tone-on-tone casual outfit.
By Janet Kelly
Covid, no Covid, shopping online is here to stay. But WHERE is the question perplexed friends and family ask us.
I browse a LOT and sometimes find fun things in surprising places, but in the main I look at three sites most often. I suspect these will change—Everlane used to top my list but has tilted too young in the past few years and the quality of the fabrics are not what they were—but for the nonce, my go-to sites are COS, Alex Mill and The Frankie Shop.
If you actually want to try on something you’ve identified online, your best chance is at COS, part of the Swedish H&M group, which has brick and mortar stores in big cities in the U.S. and internationally.
Years ago I went to a COS pop-up in Soho in NY and thought the clothing selection was impossibly drab. That has changed. Although their clothing is not trendy by any means, COS focuses on using first-rate fabrics for basic wardrobe items—shirts, sweaters, pants—offering clothes with the high-end vibes of The Row at wallet-friendly price points. And I’m happy to report that brighter colors are making their way into the collection.
Mickey Drexler, former CEO of J. Crew (and before that The Gap) has taken over the reins of Alex Mill, which was founded by his son. And what Drexler and his team have come up with is a mixture of what people loved about J. Crew in its heyday. So there are preppy corduroy jackets, the obligatory striped shirts and sweaters but also blouses with tiny prints and scallop collars. Wide-leg khakis, one-and-done jumpsuits and velvet slippers with grosgrain ties round out the mix.
The Frankie Shop came across my radar about a year or so ago, although New Yorkers have known about the small store on the fashionable Lower East Side for much longer. (There’s also a branch in Paris, founder Gaelle Drevet’s home town.) The website launched in 2016, carrying brands such as Ganni and Nanushka before they became coveted labels. Frankie also stocks a mix of international brands from Australia, Korea and Spain.
Like COS and Alex Mill, the aesthetic here is minimal-with -flair but steers far away from super trendy. Because the cut on jackets, sweaters and trousers is oversize and slouchy–my most fashion-conscious NYC pal notes that she likes to try on their clothes because oversize can fit oddly. I told her when the coast becomes clearer, I’d be making a beeline for NYC and meet her there.
FAR LEFT: COS is big on pink for February, and this fuchsia Ribbed Knit V-Neck Sweater, a blend of 58% cotton, 24% linen and 18% merino wool, is a perfect example. Cut for a relaxed fit with voluminous raglan sleeves, it balances style with comfort, selling for $135.
LEFT: Tailoring is COS’s strong suit, and when it comes to pants, they pay attention to achieving the perfect tapered leg, as in their Tencel™ lyocell slim-fit straight pants ($89) with a stylish split above the ankles.
NEAR RIGHT: I’ve been on the lookout for a quarter-zip sweater like this one. I like the oversize collar and raglan sleeves and think that it will look quite natty with a blue shirt tucked underneath it. It’s the kind of knit that will have long legs in my closet—and probably yours, too. And it looks quite luxe for the $125 price tag.
RIGHT: Structured but everyday-wearable, button-down shirts are a category COS excels in. This all-cotton Oversized Long Sleeve Shirt ($99) with a curved hem calls out to those among us who crave bright colors. I’m seeing emerald green everywhere. It also comes in white, pink and blue if you’re feeling less bold.
LEFT: I haven’t totally abandoned my skinny (more slim than skinny) jeans, but relaxed-fit ones, such as The Frankie Shop’s Riva Wide-Leg Jeans, look so much more comfortable. In soft, broken-in denim and a $108 price tag, as compared to the $200-plus pairs I see too much, they’re worth trying on.
CENTER: If I owned this merino-wool Joya Roll Neck Sweater ($295, The Frankie Shop), I’d wear it every day this winter—it looks so cozy and warm. I’d probably have to own another color besides lavender, though. Luckily it’s available in six others—citron, taupe, lemon, marigold, terra cotta and kermit green.
RIGHT: My mission this fall, which lasted until December, was to score a pair of leather or faux leather pants. I ordered and sent back several times. Three were too big and the fourth I ordered was confirmed only to be followed by a note that said, sorry, these are no longer in stock. The first time I saw the Sotto Faux Leather Pants (in black) from The Frankie Shop, they didn’t have my size but not long after I got the “back in stock” email. I immediately scooped them up. They drape well and fall just at the heel of my lug loafers. Now I see they’re selling on the site in beige buttery soft faux leather for the same price—$165— I paid for my black ones. Maybe one pair is enough? Note to self: That fitted knit turtleneck top with the slightly puffy sleeves shown with the beige pants makes a terrific outfit.
LEFT: Leather jackets and coats and sportswear make up the DNA of the Copenhagen-based Remain Birger Christensen. Give your life a lift in this double-breasted leather trench in a show-stopping fern green. It’s $899 at The Frankie Shop.
RIGHT: Searching for the right trench coat is like hunting for the Holy Grail, trust me. Generally speaking, if they’re from a designer brand, they’re wildly expensive. And there just don’t seem to be any fashion-forward, mid-price options. Perhaps because those mid-priced brands have mostly disappeared or gotten too damn pricey. With this oversize—but not too voluminous—silhouette, this $489 Decima Trench Coat from The Frankie Shop packs in more style than I’ve seen in similar coats for twice the price.
LEFT: Alex Mill’s Italian-made Julien Italian Flat in a velvet military green (also available in black, burgundy and red for $165) is darn cute, a riff on a ballet slipper but one that won’t pummel your toes. If your ankles are on the slim side, it could be fun to tie the grosgrain ribbons around your shins. If not, they’re removable.
CENTER: I’m a fan of corduroy and am happy to see more of it lately, including this Frankie Blazer ($245). Using leftover inventory, Alex Mill created a slim-fitting jacket in a wide corduroy wale, hand-dyed with plant-based indigo. The site notes that natural indigo transfers to light colors, so wash—separately—before wearing.
RIGHT: Made from recycled cotton and treated with a vintage wash, these easygoing Pull-on Pants —$125 in olive green— (shown) or navy with a slightly tapered leg are on my wish list. Wear with the matching Vintage Wash Hoodie ($110) and you can walk out the door with a perfectly coordinated outfit.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
Red is for Valentine’s Day and all winter. From left to right: Chanel’s blood-red Pirate nail polish, Armani’s Si Passione eau de cologne, Gucci’s new lipstick in Goldie Red and Jo Malone’s Scarlet Poppy cologne.
By Janet Kelly
“NO ELEGANCE is possible without perfume. It is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate accessory, “ said Coco Chanel.
Although the fashion designer has no memorable quotes (at least that I’ve heard) about her No. 5 perfume bottle, that’s not because she didn’t think hard about how it should look. Its minimalist architecture is as timeless as the scent itself. Wonder what her reaction would be to the company’s newest entry into the fragrance world—No. 1 De Chanel L’Eau Rouge. It’s not a perfume like Chanel No.5, but an eau fraîche, which has only a tiny percentage of perfume oil, so its scent won’t last long, but it comes in a scarlet red bottle that will.
It reminds me of the one I keep on a silver tray in my bedroom. The contents of Shisheido’s Revitalizing Essence are long gone, but the elegant bottle with Chinese script running down its length remains on display. During the winter, it’s an antidote to the white and woebegone gray I glimpse outside my window. In spring and summer it brings out the gleam of my vintage “Woman of the Year” tray.
Fragrance makes me happy, regardless of the occasion I spray or dab it on for. My outlook brightens more if scents—and makeup, too— not only fulfill their purpose but are lovely to look at as well.
With Valentine’s Day just a week and two days from now, what could be better than the gift of scent in an eye-catching red bottle? Our eight picks below range in intensity from eau de parfum to eau fraîche and from spendy to not -as. (We’ve also included a lipstick, scented candle and a nail polish in our favorite February shade.)
If your significant other pooh-poohs the idea of a present for February 14, gift one to the love of your life—you!
LEFT: Next to pure perfume, an eau de parfum contains the highest concentration of perfume oils, between 15 and 20 percent, which means it can last all day, like Christian Louboutin’s Louboukiss. A mix of jasmine, tuberose and musk, it’s packaged in a Louboutin-red glass vessel with a silver skull. The floral crown refers to the white blooms that create the scent, which sells for a heady $300 for 3 ounces at Saks Fifth Avenue.
CENTER: Amouage (the name is a mash-up of “amour,” plus an Arabic word meaning “waves”) is a perfume house established in 1983 by the Sultan of Oman, who hoped to revive the ancient Omani art of perfumery. Amouage’s eau de parfum Journey includes notes of apricot, jasmine tea, osmanthus, nutmeg, cardamom, jasmine, mimosa, honey, cedarwood, pipe tobacco, saffron, vanilla, cypriol and musk. Got all that? A fruity floral with a touch of leather in a regal red bottle, it’s $340 for 3.4 ounces.
RIGHT: Armani Beauty’s Sì Passione, a floral with a woodsy kick, comes dressed up in a rich red bottle that can’t help but spice up the look of where you want to show it off. Only, don’t put it too near a sunny windowsill or a heat source or in your bathroom. Heat and humidity can degrade the scent. However, a darker bottle will keep the oil blend from direct sunlight and preserve the perfume for longer. It’s $128 for 3.4 ounces at Sephora.
LEFT: Loyal Jo Malone fans will likely love its Scarlet Poppy Cologne (3.4 ounces, $196 at Sephora). A slightly powdery mix of iris, black currants and figs, it’s labeled “intense” cologne, but reviewers across several sites have complained that they although they like the scent, it disappears too quickly. They shouldn’t be too disappointed. An eau de cologne only hasa light concentration of perfume oils, usually 2 to 4 percent, that is cut with alcohol. It’s a lovely spritz, but don’t expect it to last long.
CENTER: Inspired by vintage makeup, Gucci’s Voile Sheer Lipstick ($42, Sephora) in a pink-rosebud print tube makes applying lipstick a special event. Shown above in Goldie Red, it’s available in a palette of 18 shades.
RIGHT: Another eau de cologne, Eau de Rhubarbe Éclarate is one of the first fragrances created by Hermes’s in-house perfumer Christine Nagel. Fittingly packaged in orangey-red, it’s a crisp and refreshing scent—it’s $132 for 3.3 ounces at Neiman Marcus.
LEFT: What looks best against a white, snowy background? Red. Specifically, Chanel’s Pirate, a deep blood-red nail polish with high shine. The ceramide-containing formula helps strengthen and protect your fingernails, too. It’s $30 at Ulta.
RIGHT: Chanel’s first venture into sustainable, the No. 1 De Chanel line, which includes makeup and skincare, uses up to 97% “naturally” derived ingredients. L’Eau Rouge, a revitalizing fragrance mist, takes its cue from the camellia flower and is composed of notes of citrus and red berries that evolve into jasmine and rose. An eau fraîche also has a very low concentration of alcohol, sometimes 1 to 3 percent. While colognes are mixed with alcohol, an eau fraîche is mixed with mostly water. It’s $110 for 3.4 ounces.
LEFT: Similar to Chanel’s L’Eau Rouge, Tom Ford’s Lost Cherry Travel Spray ($75, Sephora) is a full-bodied perfume that’s good to go and to last you throughout the day with notes of cherry liqueur and almond.
CENTER: Inhale the sweet smells of cinnamon, caramel and apple and vanilla while appreciating the playful graphics of American artist Keith Haring, whose Red Running Heart this candle ($50, Amara) is based on.
RIGHT: Influenced by his family of cognac makers, Kilian Hennessy went into the luxury perfume business—with a sly sense of humor. One of his earlier creations was Good Girl Gone Bad, a reference to Eve who ate the forbidden fruit. It’s in the brand’s Narcotic collection, as is Rolling in Love, a white floral eau de parfum with notes of almond, iris and musk. Each bottle is meant to be precious—and refillable. The red-lacquered Rolling in Love flaçon is engraved on each side with the representation of Achilles’ shield. Perfumes this pricey should also protect their wearer, right? It’s $250 for 1.7 ounces.
MyLittleBird often includes links to products we write about. Our editorial choices are made independently; nonetheless, a purchase made through such a link can sometimes result in MyLittleBird receiving a commission on the sale, whether through a retailer, an online store or Amazon.com.
IS THERE a certain age when vanity is no longer a concern—when you can look at yourself in the mirror and be happy—or at least satisfied—with the image reflected? Anyone out there so secure? Not I, although I applaud Valerie Monroe, who writes in Substack’s “How Not to F*ck Up Your Face” that we don’t need to fix our faces, we just need to learn how to accept them.
Then there’s SJP’s alter ego Carrie Bradshaw in And Just Like That, who has an accidental consultation with a plastic surgeon and decides afterwards that she doesn’t want to erase the lines of the past 15 years, even though, as my colleague comments, her face is quite drawn. Maybe a little fat transfer?
Like Carrie, my face is thin, but mine is kind of pruning in. Fillers have filled it in in the past, but my DC doctor told me that at a certain point, Voluma, Restylane, et al., no longer do the job; in fact, they can make your face look weirdly over-plumped. Take a look at Kristin Davis aka Charlotte in the Sex and the City reboot.
Last month I decided to do some local legwork on plastic surgery. I made two appointments—one with a plastic surgeon and another with an oculoplastic surgeon to discuss a facelift and an eyelift (blepharoplasty), respectively. I had some confidence in both doctors thanks to my good friend, a retired nurse anesthetist, who had worked with both during many surgeries and admired them—a lot. (She had an eyelift 10 years ago with one doc and has scheduled her own facelift with the other in July. )
After examining my face and saying something about how he didn’t advise a brow lift, Dr. M., the plastic surgeon, recommended a fat transfer for my face hollows, along with a cheek and neck lift for sagging muscles. Oy. He took lots of photos, explained the operation (cost: approximately $15k) and how long it would take to heal. He wants me to return so he can map out the procedure looking at those pictures. Wonder if he has a fancy machine like Carrie’s doctor?
What gave me pause was he didn’t seem keen on doing much to my eyes, specifically my upper lids. Every dermatologist in DC whom I saw advised me to have an upper eyelift.
A couple of weeks later, I saw Dr. B., the oculoplastic surgeon. He, too, took photos but had an entirely different, er, view, of my eyes. He was confident my droopy eyelids were not only impairing my vision but also that insurance would pay for the surgery ($6,000 to $7,000; for both lids it would be $10,000+). He told me I was unknowingly opening my eyes wider to compensate for my vision. When I tentatively told him I had seen Dr. M., who was not as enthusiastic about an eye fix, he assured me that he and Dr. M. were good friends, and Dr. M. preferred facelifts to blepharoplasty. Dr. B. also advised me to get an eyelift before a facelift. Sometimes you’ll find that you don’t need the latter after you have your eyes done, he said. I had heard that advice before—from another friend , who had an eyelift from Dr. B. a couple of years ago. To date, she’s not considering any further surgery.
Just a couple of days ago, a woman in Dr. M.’s office called me to ask if I had any questions and, I presume, to make another appointment to review the photos. I told her I’d get back to her. In the meantime, I did make an appointment with Dr. B. for an upper eyelift at the end of April. I’m debating whether to keep it.
My predicament: I know it’s my only life, but it’s also my only face. If only I could learn to accept it or reach the age where I no longer give a damn.
DOPESICK, based on journalist Beth Macy’s 2018 book of the same name, is one of the best (if not the best) shows streaming right now. As usual I’m late to the party since it debuted on Hulu last October 13, back when I was watching the news about the coronavirus. Finally I figured out it’s the same thing every night and stumbled onto this series, grabbed by the name; “dopesick” refers to the symptoms caused by opiate withdrawal. I can already tell I’ll have those same feelings when this show ends, because after watching just four of the eight hour-long episodes I’m seriously hooked.
A somewhat fictionalized, almost-documentary based on a book, the plot revolves around the 1995 birth of OxyContin, following its initial celebration as the end of pain for all mankind to its downfall as the trigger of America’s deadly opioid crisis. At the center is Purdue Pharma owned by the billionaire Sackler family, the heartless manufacturer responsible for the drug’s mislabeling and false marketing that would lead to the addiction and deaths of many thousands of people, mostly young.
Two of the major talents are director Barry Levinson and actor Michael Keaton. Almost unrecognizable here, Keaton literally disappears into the role of a small-town country doctor, and not through wild makeup or outlandish costumes (like in Beetlejuice and Batman) but by sheer acting ability. His performance rightly won him the 2022 Golden Globe Award for Best Actor in a miniseries.
The rest of the noteworthy cast includes Rosario Dawson as a DEA agent, Peter Sarsgaard as a lawyer for the Justice Department, and especially the young Kaitlyn Dever as an Appalachian coal miner who becomes addicted to the drug, with dire consequences.
Dopesick is instantly gripping and informative about the inner workings of the pharmaceutical industry, albeit gut-wrenching and sad at times. It will transport you to another world, and that’s basically why you set aside your real life to watch anything, right?
THERE HAS been a 40-year span between our first and second trips driving to Florida. It took two days to get here the first time; four the second. We were in a hurry once; now we take our time.
Then we were full of beginnings: Newly married and degreed. The first jobs post college awaited. We were shiny with optimism, idealistic with ambitions.
Now we are vaxxed, boosted and wary. Our optimism tempered by Omicron and other tragedies from the past 22 months.
Both our children were born in the eight years we lived in Florida. We found career success and a failure or two. When a job transfer offered a return to the Midwest, we decided to go back to four seasons.
More jobs followed, more moves. The children went to college, and began their own firsts. After living in the Washington DC area for eight years, we ended our careers and retired to the Midwest.
This year we returned to Florida for winter, in a journey that feels bittersweet. Our firsts are in the rear-view mirror.
We are the snowbirds we once disparaged; the ones who hate driving on I-95. We look for happy hours, which used to be known as early-bird specials.
Leisure takes work. A trip to the grocery store is a planned event. Searching for a local fruit stand counts as an adventure. Dining out at restaurants with outdoor seating becomes the day’s highlight.
We’re not the same as before. It’s been a long time since we had to rush home to relieve a babysitter. Now we worry about our children coping with virus-closed daycares and schools.
We sometimes take naps, and forget what day of the week it is.
Five-mile runs have been hobbled by torn meniscus; rounds of tennis slowed by sciatica pain.
There is more recreation here than fitness, anyway. Body Pump and Pilates aren’t taught at the local YMCA. The pool has no lap lanes. A 9am aerobic swim class exercises to a recorded instructor with musical selections from the 1950s. The shuffleboard courts remain but pickleball now reigns.
Here in Florida, the unmasked dominate. Go Brandon T-shirts are sold at art fairs. OAN is the televised station at the neighborhood Tiki Bar. The former president, after all, lives up the road.
In the mornings, we note the freezing weather up North with satisfaction; here the temperatures hover in the 60s and 70s. We walk on the beach.
Do we look as old as everyone else? It doesn’t matter. There are many of us here.
Once we were the sunrises; now we are the sunsets. That’s OK. Both have beauty.
—Christine Ledbetter, the former arts editor of the Washington Post, lives in the Midwest and writes about culture.
