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By Valerie Monroe
If you’re interested in feeling happier about your appearance—especially as you age—you might like reading what she has to say about it. For more of her philosophical and practical advice, subscribe for free to How Not to F*ck Up Your Face at valeriemonroe.substack.com
A READER who prefers a rich old age without dry skin recently asked if oils are hydrating; the answer might surprise you.
Q: Do oils do anything for your skin except make it . . . oily? In other words, are they actually hydrating?
A: I don’t use oils. Which is maybe not so smart, according to Sarah Villafranco, MD, founder of Osmia Skincare in Carbondale, Colorado. I emailed her because I know she loves using oils and she could explain why they might be a good idea.
“I’m passionate about this question!” she wrote. “Oils are composed of lipids (fatty compounds) only, and therefore do not hydrate the skin. But they can make the skin feel more hydrated.
“How is this possible, you might ask? If you apply an oil to dry skin, the result is oily skin. You’ll feel like a greaseball, which is why some folks don’t like oils,” she wrote.
That would be me.
“But if you apply an oil to wet or damp skin that has recently been hydrated with water (or a water-soluble ingredient like aloe vera), the lipids in the oil can help reinforce the skin’s barrier function by sealing in the moisture,” wrote Villafranco. And voila! Your skin feels more hydrated! The oil slows the evaporation of the water-soluble ingredients that actually moisturize.
Okay, well that makes sense.
So, technically, though an oil is not hydrating, if you use it correctly, it can help you maintain softer, well-moisturized skin. Villafranco made one last point: Jojoba is a bit of a special case because it’s a liquid wax similar to skin’s own sebum, but it’s still a lipid composition, so… not hydrating.
You might say, “I’m sold!” and try this deliciously silky and naturally fragrant Osmia Night Body Oil, which Villafranco generously sent me months ago. Just remember that when you apply it to wet skin, you must wait till you air-dry before you can throw on your garments. My advice: Enjoy the spa-like softening experience to the max! And bring a book.